Help! Question about Extract

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If you post your recipe we can help you more efficiently. Do you have a recipe? Did you buy a kit with yeast, extract etc. ? or just a can of coopers extract?
 
hopsalot said:
one can, 4 lbs, in 5 gallons will produce a low gravity wort.
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Yep starting gravity of 1.020 with a finished estimated abv of 2% using as a 5 gallon batch. I just plugged the numbers into hopville and using this can and nothing else you would need to reduce the total volume to a 2 gallon batch which would give you a SG of 1.050.
 
BamaRooster said:
If you post your recipe we can help you more efficiently. Do you have a recipe? Did you buy a kit with yeast, extract etc. ? or just a can of coopers extract?
Click to expand...


Whoa, okay bear w/ me because I haven't brewed before. I don't have the recipe (I'm guessing that's on the can?) with me because I'm at work :)rockin:), but you guys think I should add some dry malt extract to make it better? What exactly will that do? Any suggestions on DME? I'm heading to Northern Brewer on Thursday
 
hickaseer said:
Whoa, okay bear w/ me because I haven't brewed before. I don't have the recipe (I'm guessing that's on the can?) with me because I'm at work :)rockin:), but you guys think I should add some dry malt extract to make it better? What exactly will that do? Any suggestions on DME? I'm heading to Northern Brewer on Thursday
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If you want it to be good (imo) add dark dme to it. Check the can for what it calls for but don't use corn sugar on your first batch. 3 lbs dme and 4 lbs kit probably works o.k.
 
badbrew said:
If you want it to be good (imo) add dark dme to it. Check the can for what it calls for but don't use corn sugar on your first batch. 3 lbs dme and 4 lbs kit probably works o.k.
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Thanks, so grab 3 lbs of dark DME. Subsitute that for the corn sugar? It will taste better that way?
 
And, when the instructions say to ferment for 7 days then transfer to a secondary for x days ignore that. Ferment for 3-4 weeks in one container, then proceed to priming and bottling. Time=good.

B
 
hickaseer said:
Whoa, okay bear w/ me because I haven't brewed before. I don't have the recipe (I'm guessing that's on the can?) with me because I'm at work :)rockin:), but you guys think I should add some dry malt extract to make it better? What exactly will that do? Any suggestions on DME? I'm heading to Northern Brewer on Thursday
Click to expand...

Yes I would agree that 3lbs of dark dry malt extract should do it.

It appears that the manufacturer suggests using something called
'brew enhancer 1" Fermentables and Carbon Drops for Coopers Beer Making Kits > Brew Enhancer 1

I have never used this but have been lead to believe there should be a recipe and instructions on the can. Of course it is also possible that I am very wrong!
 
You can use the Brew Enhancer but the Cooper kit I did came out better with DME. The Brew Enhancer is mostly corn sugar, the DME will give it more body and flavor.
 
BamaRooster said:
Yep starting gravity of 1.020 with a finished estimated abv of 2% using as a 5 gallon batch. I just plugged the numbers into hopville and using this can and nothing else you would need to reduce the total volume to a 2 gallon batch which would give you a SG of 1.050.
Click to expand...

What if I make a 4 gallon batch...or smaller?
 
Use the can, add 3# light DME instead of Brew Enhancer, fill to 5.5 gallons (or 21 litres if using a Cooper fermentor) and you'll be good to go.
 
ronclark said:
You could do that, but I think you would be much better off adding some fermentables (1 kg. is probably enough) and brewing the five gallon batch. Using the brew enhancer suggested or dry malt extract should both be fine.
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Ok. I will take everyone's advice and get some DME. Substitute it for the sugar.
 
NavySur4 said:
Use the can, add 3# light DME instead of Brew Enhancer, fill to 5.5 gallons (or 21 litres if using a Cooper fermentor) and you'll be good to go.
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Sorry I'm new to brewing, what does 3# mean? I like the idea of using light DME instead of dark
 
Also, the DME will act the same as sugar when making alcohol? Sugar isn't necessary, eh? Gosh I'm a noob.

Why not LME instead of DME?
 
3# is 3 pounds. You can use LME or DME, whichever you prefer. The conversion is 1 pound of DME for 1.25 pounds of LME. DME/LME are fermentable like dextrose but provide better flavor/body for your beer than dextrose.
 
If you're going to Norther Brewer you could just get a 3.3 # jug of LME and add that to the can.
 
hickaseer said:
Also, the DME will act the same as sugar when making alcohol? Sugar isn't necessary, eh? Gosh I'm a noob.

Why not LME instead of DME?
Click to expand...

Corn sugar is not necessary not "malt extract sugar is not necessary". Corn sugar will give you more of the budweiser like texture.
 
birvine said:
And, when the instructions say to ferment for 7 days then transfer to a secondary for x days ignore that. Ferment for 3-4 weeks in one container, then proceed to priming and bottling. Time=good.

B
Click to expand...

Ok last question; what will adding Light DME do to the tast of the Dark Ale in leiu of sugar? Will it make it stronger/more bitter? I like flavorful beers, but I'm not sure I want one that's crazy strong. Would it be better to add the can, then 1.5 lbs of L DME and 1.5 lbs of sugar? Or am I way off my rocker?

I'm brewing on Thursday so I still have another day to get squared away.
 
Most cooper kits want you to add a booster pack. Google it and find out the specs for it. Adding more DME will make it stronger. But not more bitter. Check ahs add a pack for coopers. I would do it but:drunk:
 
it will be fine. the sugar produces alcohol and not much else. so it drys out your beer. the malt will add more flavor as well as more alcohol. not bitterness. its more of the smooth, round, full flavor. the bitterness comes from the hops. the amount of extract suggested will not make the beer "crazy strong". it would take much more extract than that. good luck on your first brew!! :mug:
 
hickaseer said:
Ok last question; what will adding Light DME do to the tast of the Dark Ale in leiu of sugar? Will it make it stronger/more bitter? I like flavorful beers, but I'm not sure I want one that's crazy strong. Would it be better to add the can, then 1.5 lbs of L DME and 1.5 lbs of sugar? Or am I way off my rocker?

I'm brewing on Thursday so I still have another day to get squared away.
Click to expand...

Dude seriously: you are brewing your first batch so chill out and take some advice. The extract is just more gourmet than corn sugar. It used to be banned in German beer (corn sugar). Don't know if that still holds. What's that tell you?
 
rycov said:
it will be fine. the sugar produces alcohol and not much else. so it drys out your beer. the malt will add more flavor as well as more alcohol. not bitterness. its more of the smooth, round, full flavor. the bitterness comes from the hops. the amount of extract suggested will not make the beer "crazy strong". it would take much more extract than that. good luck on your first brew!! :mug:
Click to expand...

thanks dog
 
badbrew said:
Dude seriously: you are brewing your first batch so chill out and take some advice. The extract is just more gourmet than corn sugar. It used to be banned in German beer (corn sugar). Don't know if that still holds. What's that tell you?
Click to expand...

so was anything that wasn't malt hops yeast or water. whats that tell you?
 
Hickaseer, good luck on your first brew. Besides taking the advice already given, I'd suggest picking up a home brew book like "The joy of home brewing" or "How to brew". Even the first few chapters will help for your first brew. That plus reading posts on this forum have really helped me understand the brewing process. On brew day, have your instructions and recipe in front of you, keep everything sanitary, and you'll be fine.
 
Pie_Man said:
Hickaseer, good luck on your first brew. Besides taking the advice already given, I'd suggest picking up a home brew book like "The joy of home brewing" or "How to brew". Even the first few chapters will help for your first brew. That plus reading posts on this forum have really helped me understand the brewing process. On brew day, have your instructions and recipe in front of you, keep everything sanitary, and you'll be fine.
Click to expand...

thanks dude, hopefully it comes out alright. I appreciate the advice
 
Good luck on your first brew man. Get yourself a Hydrometer at some point in your brewing career. It'll help you measure the Original Gravity(OG) before fermentation and the Final Gravity (FG) once fermentation is complete. Those two numbers can be used to give you the alcohol percentage of the beer. In general, the more fermentables you put in the wort, the more alcoholic the beer will be. Like others have said, there are many fermentables including but not limited to Corn Sugar, Table Sugar, DME, LME, Honey.... All have various effects on the mouthfeel, taste, and alcohol percentages. Going with DME is a rather expensive choice considering LME(If it's fresh) can be just as good and can be a lot less expensive. If you don't care about flavor (ME when I started brewing) You can get a coopers can and add 4 pounds of corn sugar to it and get a average alcohol percentage and call it a day... But that gets old. Hopefully you'll find that beer making is a little more than just trying to get a high alcohol percentage. Some of the best beers I've tasted have been lower than average alcohol... Just my ramblings. Just remember, you will make mistakes on your first batch, but the important thing is not to freak out. I still make mistakes to this day and I get pretty good beer :) Happy brewing, friend!
 
Ok,1st of all,the cooper's cans are designed to be brewed to 23L,or 6.072 gallons. The 3 brew enhancers have differing constituents. Their brewing sugar is 80% dextrose,20% maltodextrine. Their brew enhancer 1 is 60/40. Their brew enhancer 2 is 500g of dextrose,250g maltodextrin,& 250g light DME.
Having said that,I used;
1) OS dark ale can,1.7kg,or about 3.462lbs
1) 3lb bag Munton's plain amber DME (keeps the color dark with ruby glint & doesn't make that bitter roasty flavor dark DME would)
1oz Kent Golding hops
1oz Willamette hops
Cooper's ale yeast re-hydrated
Brewed to 23L
The cooper's ales are English derived with some tweaks over the centuries. That's why I used Munton's DME,it's English malts. The hops are English,as that's also traditional. It should give about 5.3%ABV. That's about what I get. My Whiskely ale I made from it was 5.9%. This recipe reminded me of a dark cream ale with a little bit of that toasty flavor. Pretty good one I'd say.
 
unionrdr said:
Ok,1st of all,the cooper's cans are designed to be brewed to 23L,or 6.072 gallons. The 3 brew enhancers have differing constituents. Their brewing sugar is 80% dextrose,20% maltodextrine. Their brew enhancer 1 is 60/40. Their brew enhancer 2 is 500g of dextrose,250g maltodextrin,& 250g light DME.
Having said that,I used;
1) OS dark ale can,1.7kg,or about 3.462lbs
1) 3lb bag Munton's plain amber DME (keeps the color dark with ruby glint & doesn't make that bitter roasty flavor dark DME would)
1oz Kent Golding hops
1oz Willamette hops
Cooper's ale yeast re-hydrated
Brewed to 23L
The cooper's ales are English derived with some tweaks over the centuries. That's why I used Munton's DME,it's English malts. The hops are English,as that's also traditional. It should give about 5.3%ABV. That's about what I get. My Whiskely ale I made from it was 5.9%. This recipe reminded me of a dark cream ale with a little bit of that toasty flavor. Pretty good one I'd say.
Click to expand...


I'm adding 3 lbs of Light DME and no hopps, since it's pre-hopped and this is my first brew. I need to heat up the can before I add it so it pours better, eh?
 
All Cooper's OS cans have a little bit of bittering only with Pride of Ringwood hops. So adding 3lbs of plain dme will reduce the bittering quality a bit. & since it has NO flavor/aroma hop additions,you're doing such additions re-balances the brew. They're made that way on purpose so you can experiment with what you like. I wish they'd actually come out & say that. And light DME is ok,but will lighten the color a bit,not to mention,water down the flavor,ime. That's why I used 3lbs of plain amber DME in my dark ale recipe. It preserves some of that wee bit of toastiness it should have. And gives it a nice ruby glint.
 
tl;dr.

but still i would probably go with what unionrdr suggests, just because i know he uses (used?) a lot of the cooper stuff, so he probably knows how to make them good.
 

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