American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

bmckee56 said:

Question: If I increased the bittering hops and boiled for 90 minutes, would this then be considered a DFH 90 IPA Clone? What other modifications might need to be made to get to that level?

Salute!

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I've never made the 90 Min clone, but I know several others have. The first thing that comes to my mind is it's much bigger than the 60 minute. Higher OG, more malt, more hops. I would even consider boosting it with corn sugar, but the original tastes pretty sweet to me so all malt would be ok, too. You could find out the ABV of the 90 minute, and use enough 2-row and maybe a pound or two of corn sugar to get you to the OG you'd need. You could scale up the hopping- making sure that you had enough hops especially for the bittering. I'd probably add all of the bittering hops between 90 and 60 minutes, to ensure there was enough bittering, but still use the flavor/aroma hops near the end, from 35 minutes on.

Thanks Yooper. Your suggestions sound good. Actually what I have after using the Maris Otter is believe it or not tasting quite close to the 90 minute. There is a local brewpub here in Pittsburgh that keeps 90 minute in stock (bottles) I had three bottles in the refrigerator and sampled one next to my batch and it is not exactly the same, but similar in many ways.

Anyway, I might have an opportunity sometime in the near future to try a 90 version. As for the 60 minute clone........

Salute!

Has anyone here done DFH 60min recipe with Safale US-05? I'm in the process of freezing some of this strain for further use and would like to try it with this one. Anyone have any negative effects?

I just brewed a version of this for my first all grain brew today.
13lb pale malt
6 oz amber
.7oz warrior 60-35
.3oz magnum 35-25
.7 oz palisade 25-0
.3 oz palisade flamout
.3 oz warrior flamout.

It was my first all grain, havent calculated efficiency and stuff yet but OG was 1.059.

FrekinA,

1.059 sounds pretty low. I just brewed this for my first all grain too! Here was my recipe for a 3.5 gallon batch (in a 5 gallon kettle).

9.1 # Pale Malt 2-row
.26 # Amber Malt
.5 oz Warrior 60-35
.3 oz Amarillo 35-5
.3 oz Simcoe 35-5

I ended up pretty close to 3.5 gallons with an OG of 1.067, making my efficiency ~69% into the fementer.

I had another poster here look at a picture of my crush and comment that my efficiency was low due to the crush. I had my grain crushed at the LBS. They have business reasons for not crushing the grain well enough to achieve 80% efficiency.

But quite honestly, I don't care that I didn't hit my numbers. The wort tasted so delicious! I just know this is going to be and awesome beer.

BTW, FermCapS is amazing!


Here are some pics from my brew day:

flananuts said:

Has anyone here done DFH 60min recipe with Safale US-05? I'm in the process of freezing some of this strain for further use and would like to try it with this one. Anyone have any negative effects?

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I have. I've used just about every clean, well-attenuating US strain for this, and they've all been great! As long as you keep the fermentation cool, you won't notice the yeast.

Yeah it is lower then I wanted, I am going to do Ed's Haus Pale this weekend to help me get efficiency numbers, I was more concerned with just sort of actually doing the all grain brew this time. Im not sure I am too low, I got the recipe from BYO and copied it near exactly. Their OG was listed at 1.064 and mine came in at 1.059-1.060 So while i did move the hops very slightly more toward aroma to compensate, I think it should be pretty similar.

edit: I went back and looked at Yoopers original numbers. I am about .01 off her OG of 1.070. Efficiency question: When I was cleaning out my MLT after the brew I noticed that is was still pretty wet and more wort was left in there. Do to poor planning by me I was already boiling and think I could have collected more. The Gravity coming out of the MLT was about 1.040 still, so Im betting I should have collected this and jsut boiled off a bit more to hit a better gravity. Thoughts?

Long time reader first time post..... Quick question from a relative noob. I thought i had a half pound of amber malt, but instead i only have a quarter. Could i use a crystal 60 or roasted barley on hand to make up the differance? Which would be preferable?

Thanks again all for the advice. Great site. Much appreciated.

BriBrew said:

Long time reader first time post..... Quick question from a relative noob. I thought i had a half pound of amber malt, but instead i only have a quarter. Could i use a crystal 60 or roasted barley on hand to make up the differance? Which would be preferable?

Thanks again all for the advice. Great site. Much appreciated.

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I wouldn't use the roasted, but I'm not a roasted barley fan anyway. A little crystal would be fine.

Thanks Yooper for the recipe. I brewed this today using the Wyeast American Ale - 1056. Brewmasters Warehouse was out of the White Labs, so we substituted this for it.

What was planned as a brew day turned into a brew evening for life circumstances.

I also had to wait about an hour between mash/sparge to boil because I had to pick up my wife from work earlier than planned. Not sure of the negative effects of this, but I hope its not too bad.

Also, I still have to get more comfortable with Beer Smith and/or configure it better to my system because there was a miscalculation with the amount of mash and sparge water volume I need to use. I only ended up with about 4.75 gallons in my primary and had to top off.

In addition, I got a low OG at 1.066. Not the greatest of brew days, but I'm sure I'll have some decent beer on the other end.

Thanks again Yooper!!

Have had my beer on tap for a bit of time now and I am very pleased with it (here it comes), BUT the hops aroma that was so obvious when I first tapped the keg and started drinking is fading. The hops bitterness and flavor are there, it's just the aroma seems to have diminished.

Is this something that typically occurs as the beer ages or is something happening that I had not anticipated?

I have some cascade hops (Pellets) that I occasionally drop into a pint to kick up the aroma and flavor, but I have not done this yet with this beer. As I said, the bitterness and flavor are fine now, but I miss the noticable hops aroma.

Salute!

bmckee56 said:

Have had my beer on tap for a bit of time now and I am very pleased with it (here it comes), BUT the hops aroma that was so obvious when I first tapped the keg and started drinking is fading. The hops bitterness and flavor are there, it's just the aroma seems to have diminished.

Is this something that typically occurs as the beer ages or is something happening that I had not anticipated?

I have some cascade hops (Pellets) that I occasionally drop into a pint to kick up the aroma and flavor, but I have not done this yet with this beer. As I said, the bitterness and flavor are fine now, but I miss the noticable hops aroma.

Salute!

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Yeah, that's typical with a beer of this style. The beer does get more delicious with age IMO, but the longer you age the more the aroma will fade.

I typically like to drink a pale ale quite green. Usually I'll tap them within a month of brew day with a bit of dry hops in the keg.

YooperBrew said:

ok, some people have asked me to post the conversion with LME. This is what I came up with:

BeerSmith Recipe Printout - www.beersmith.com
Recipe: Copy of Dogfish Head 60 Clone
Brewer: Lorena
Asst Brewer:
Style: India Pale Ale
TYPE: Extract
Taste: (35.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 2.43 gal
Estimated OG: 1.072 SG
Estimated Color: 13.1 SRM
Estimated IBU: 49.7 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: - %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
9 lbs 14.4 oz Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
1.25 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (60 min) Hops 26.6 IBU
0.50 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (35 min) Hops 10.0 IBU
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (30 min) Hops 13.1 IBU


Mash Schedule: None
Total Grain Weight: 9.70 lb
----------------------------
Steep grains as desired (30-60 minutes)


Notes:
------
Pacman yeast used. Hops were added as continous- first warrior for the first 25 minutes, then all mixed continuosly at 35 minutes.

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so i just brewed this a week ago and am about to rack to the secondary. i had a question about dry hopping for 3 days. i had planned to let the beer sit in the secondary for at least 2 weeks. Should i wait to add the hops untill 3 days before i bottle or should i dry hop for 2 weeks?

also do i hop with the Simcoe and Amarillo at the same time or 3 days for one then 3 days again for the other.


sorry for all the questions it's my second brew.

thank you

Actually, it's fine to dry hop that for a week or 10 days. What I would probably do is just go ahead and rack it onto the hops. You could rack it, and then wait a few days before adding the drop hops, too, if you want to let it clear a bit.

I just edited the original post. I had my notes in there, but it seemed confusing a couple of years later!

I have this in primary right now, fermenting at 63 degrees with pacman yeast. It's on tap as often as possible in the Yooper house.

I ferment in the basement and it is a solid 70 degrees in the winter time. What potentially negative effects will I have fermenting with pac man at 70 degrees? I've not yet convinced SWMBO that I need yet another freezer to convert to a ferm chamber...

flananuts said:

I ferment in the basement and it is a solid 70 degrees in the winter time. What potentially negative effects will I have fermenting with pac man at 70 degrees? I've not yet convinced SWMBO that I need yet another freezer to convert to a ferm chamber...

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Well, if the room temperature is 70 degrees, it could be as much as 8-10 degrees warmer for the fermenting beer, since fermentation produces heat. That's too hot for any ale yeast. If you can use a swamp cooler, or another way to keep the temperature (of the beer, not the room) under 72 degrees, you could use S05 with good results for dry, and WLP001, or Wyeast 1056 for liquid yeast. I've never used pacman warmer than about 64-65, so I don't know for sure, but it might be fine at 70.

I'll let the thread know how it comes out. All my ales are fermented this way and I'm about to start pouring a winter spice ale that used S05. Looks like it's time to start to building out a fermentation chamber for multiple carboys

This looks like a very popular brew. I just purchased your exact list of ingredients included on the first post. However I will be using WLP001 yeast. I plan on brewing this next weekend. I have some questions.
1. When purchasing the grains at my LHBS the owner was wondering why in the heck I would bother with just 6oz Marris Otter with 13 lbs of 2 row. I am pretty new still at AG and I thought it seemed like an insignificant amount but trust your judgements. Could you explain why such a low ratio?
2. When entering the recipe into Beer Smith, I entered the 0.75oz of Warrior hops for a 48 min. boil. If you begin inserting the Warrior pellets at 60 min. and you finish 25 min later then the average length of time from start to finish would be 47.5 min since you are not boiling all 0.75 oz of warrior hops for 60 min as you indicated in your recipe. Doing the same with rest of the hops from 35 min to 0 min, the ave time would be 17.5 min ave boil time. Thus, the IBU calculated is only 48, much less than your calc. Would you exlpain why this is different from your 60 ibu calculation?
Thanks and I have read every entry in this thread before asking but didnt see the answer.

1. I used amber malt, which is much stronger flavored than MO. I got the grain bill from another recipe, and often use amber malt or aromatic malt. But, really, it's not the significant but I like the flavor of 6-8 ounces amber malt.

2. It's hard to determine the exact IBUs with continuous hopping. I don't sweat it too much- I just like the beer. I just put them down as the 60 minute, 35 minute, and 30 minute boil additions, realizing that the IBUs will be less.

Thanks, you are so sweet to respond so quickly. I really enjoy all your posts and am looking forward to the beer no matter what the ibu "actually" turns out to be. I think I will add 1oz of Warrior hops instead of the 0.75oz. It is not like I will know the difference between this and DFH 60 because I have never had the chance to try DFH. It is not sold here in Oklahoma. I just see all the great reviews it gets at rate beer and beer advocate. I will let you know in about 3 months what I think of this clone.
Have a Happy holiday season!

Made a batch of this with some tweaks in September and it has turned out delicious. I substituted with Tomahawk since I couldn't get Warrior and I used DME to get the ABV since I still use DeathBrewers AG method which limits me to 12lbs of grain. I also toasted my own malt.

The continuous hop addition was great fun and left plenty time for drinking a previous batch at the same time.

Got my third batch going now. Love this beer!

I just drank my first two of these that were brewed as a partial mash version I whipped up about 6 weeks ago, and I must say that this is my best beer yet. I have never tried the real DFH 60 because it isn't sold here, but this is like a flavor explosion in my mouth. I am definatelly going to make this again, probably this week since I just got my new turkey fryer for x-mas.
Thanks for the recipe!

YooperBrew said:

13 Pounds 2-row (US)
--- snip ---

Beer turned out fantastic!

View attachment 8548

View attachment 8549

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Agree! Just did the same recipe, but with fresh hops, and cannot believe how good it is. Next time I will mash at a slightly higher temperature (it is stronger than DFH, and not quite as thick), but overall, that is a fine beer recipe you gots there

Just tried my first bottle of Yooper's extract version and turned out great. Will fire this one up again shortly..

I did this one with 13lbs 2 row and 8 oz amber with the mash at 150degrees. The color was lighter than dfh 60 min but the hop profile was super delishous. In fact it was so good that my neighbors drained my keg without me even realizing. My hop additions were 1 oz warrior added over first 30 minutes, then .5oz amarillo over 5 minutes, then .5oz simcoe for last 30 minutes. Dry hop in primary with 1 oz of amarillo and .5oz of simcoe. I'll then dry hop again in the secondary .5oz amarillo.

Yesterday I brewed with the same hop profile but used 13lbs of 2 row and 1lb of simpsons dark crystal 70L. The color is much closer to dfh 60min and ended up with 1.064 OG. It's fermenting on Pacman and I just can't wait to drink it. If you're interested in the recipe here's a link http://hopville.com/recipe/145706/a...lananuts-60-min-ipa-simpsons-dark-crystal-70l

I'm sure this has been covered, but I'm at work and don't have time to read this giant thread. My buddy wants to brew this up tonight. My LHBS was getting the Pacman yeast in the NEXT day so I had to get a Wyeast (American Ale) Smack Pack. My question is will it still be necessary to make a starter? I've never made a beer with this high of an OG before.

BWRIGHT said:

I'm sure this has been covered, but I'm at work and don't have time to read this giant thread. My buddy wants to brew this up tonight. My LHBS was getting the Pacman yeast in the NEXT day so I had to get a Wyeast (American Ale) Smack Pack. My question is will it still be necessary to make a starter? I've never made a beer with this high of an OG before.

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I think the just pitching the Wyeast Smack Pack would be under pitching by a lot. mrmalty.com says that you'd need 2.5 smack packs for 5 gallons of 1.060 gravity wort. Either buy another couple smack packs or make a starter to avoid under pitching.

OK, well how about this. I'm confident in my sanitation practices but I would prefer not to let this sit without any yeast working. I have an Irish Red yeast cake that I used US-05 in, would that be terribly out of line? Or is that going to attenuate too much? I'm mashing at 154. I'm just trying to avoid a trip to the LHBS.

I ended up just racking onto that yeast cake. I undershot my OG by a mile. I
've never missed by more than 3 or 4 points. I was baffled so I calibrated my thermometer in ice water. It said 52! So I boiled some water and it was right on 212. So, I'm confused at this point. The color seemed to be off a bit too. I was going to chalk that up to using MO instead of the amber malt, but I have no idea now. SG ended up about 1.052. I'm a little mesmerized at this point. ??????????????????????

I just visited with Yooper the other day to help with her new brewerey and had a pint of the "original".

This is now my new favorite beer!!!! And my next planned brew.

I have honestly never been a big fan of the IPA's I've tried but this one has changed my mind. You get lots of citrus and a little pine in the flavor and aroma, perfect hopping IMO. I loved the finish: great flavor not just extreme lingering bitterness. This is an excellent beer and I think everyone should give it a try. Thanks for the recipe Yoop!

lschiavo said:

I just visited with Yooper the other day to help with her new brewerey and had a pint of the "original".

This is now my new favorite beer!!!! And my next planned brew.

I have honestly never been a big fan of the IPA's I've tried but this one has changed my mind. You get lots of citrus and a little pine in the flavor and aroma, perfect hopping IMO. I loved the finish: great flavor not just extreme lingering bitterness. This is an excellent beer and I think everyone should give it a try. Thanks for the recipe Yoop!

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Thanks for the nice words! You're welcome to come over any time, and help me kick this keg.

I'm brewing it again next week sometime- on the new rig if I can find a way to contain all those darn leaf hops in a continuous hopping and the diptube I have. I have simcoe leaf hops (thanks, Hugh_Jass) and pellet amarillo hops. I'll have to use magnum for bittering (no warrior) which are also leaf hops. I'd do the "paint straining bag with a PVC holder" but I'm not sure how that bag would be bumping up on the element.

YooperBrew said:

Thanks for the nice words! You're welcome to come over any time, and help me kick this keg.

I'm brewing it again next week sometime- on the new rig if I can find a way to contain all those darn leaf hops in a continuous hopping and the diptube I have. I have simcoe leaf hops (thanks, Hugh_Jass) and pellet amarillo hops. I'll have to use magnum for bittering (no warrior) which are also leaf hops. I'd do the "paint straining bag with a PVC holder" but I'm not sure how that bag would be bumping up on the element.

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No thanks necessary. The beer speaks for itself.

Give me a heads up on the brew day if you want some company. I gotta see the new rig in action.

YooperBrew said:

I'd do the "paint straining bag with a PVC holder" but I'm not sure how that bag would be bumping up on the element.

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Yooper:

I seem to remember a conversation I had with The Pol in which he stated he could grab a hold of the element while heating water and not burn his hand. It apparently does not get substantially hotter than the liquid in the tank to the touch. You may want to confirm that with him (or try grabbing the element yourself if you are brave, but I disclaim all liability. I drink too

Alright..........I'm not as clueless as my previous post may lead you to believe. I forgot all about this. I went a little strong the other night showing one of my buddies how to brew. Got me all worked up (drunk). Though I'm still not sure what went wrong. It must be that the thermometer quit on me. I've brewed like my last 20 beers with that theremometer and never had a problem. Hit my numbers usually within 2 points. It must be that I well undershot my mash temp. I'm wondering what I might expect from this? Obviously my efficency was terrible if I ended up at 1.052. It took off on that yeast cake and has slowed down quite a bit. I see that amber malt is at like 22 SRM compared to 3 for MO so that accounts for the color issue. Is there something else that could have brought my OG down so far? My final volume was dead on also.

new brewer here, I am looking to start brewing my 3rd batch in a few weeks and while looking for an IPA recipe, this one was recommended

Anyway, I just got my turkey fryer and will be doing my first ever full boil with this recipe so I just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before I go shopping and start brewing.

Based on what I have read through this thread, my ingredients for a full boil extract should look like this:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %
9 lbs 14.4 oz Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 %
.75 Warrior hops 16.4% AA (60 minutes) SEE NOTES ON HOPPING!
.50 Amarillo Gold 8.5% (35 minutes)
.50 Simco 12% (30 minutes)
.50 Simco 12% Dry hop
1.00 Amarillo Gold Dry hop
Irish Moss ( 1 tsp with 15 minutes left in the boil)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My previous 2 batches have been kits, so this will be my first, non-kit brew, and I believe the following would be my plan of attack for Brew Day:
1.) Bring 5 gallons of water up to 150 degrees and steep grains in bag for 30-60 minutes.
2.) Remove grain bag, bring to a full boil.
3.) Remove pot from heat, mix in Liquid Extract, and return to full boil.
4.) Continously add the warrior hops for 25 minutes(use up all Warrior Hops)
5.) Mix the .50 Amarillo and .50 Simco hops together, and continously add them over 35 minutes. Add Irish moss with 15 min to go.
6.) Chill wort(I have a Counterflow chiller now), pitch yeast, put carboy somewhere safe for a couple of weeks.
7.) Once gravity is steady, rack to secondary for 2-4 weeks, and add the .50 Simco and 1.00 Amarillo Gold to dry hop
8.) Boil 2 cups water, mix in 2/3 cup corn sugar, dump in bottling bucket, rack wort into bucket, give one or two gentle swirls with a big spoon to mix priming solution into wort.
9.) Bottle, cap, put in a dark place @ room temp.
10.) Wait a couple weeks
11.) Drink!!!


Am I missing anything, or have anything wrong in those steps?

Also, after looking at the ingredient list, and comparing to my LHBS, I have come up with the following for my shopping list
---------------------------------------------------------
Rogue Pacman Yeast Wyeast 1764-PC Activator
Cara 20L (Castle)
Alexander's pale Malt Extract 4Lbs
Warrior Hop Pellets
Simcoe Leaf Hops
Amarillo Leaf Hops
Irish Moss
---------------------------------------------------------
I wasn't sure about what grains to get, but that Cara 20L was listed as a Caramel/Crystal. Did I choose right or am I off?

Also, the only pale malt extract I could find was that Alexanders which comes in 4Lbs cans, can I use 8 pounds of extract instead of 9 or will that cause issues? If it will cause issues is there a good DME I could substitute as I didn't see any pale malt DME's on the LHBS's website. I did find at a different, more expensive, LHBS, that they sell the Alexander's in 1.4Lbs cans too, so I could always make a trip there(further away), but I would prefer to just make one stop for all my ingredients if possible.

Are my measurements for the priming sugar correct? I would prefer not to wind up with flat beer or exploding bottles

Thanks in advance!

That seems about right! The only thing I would change is to start with about 6 gallons of water, since you'll boil off quite a bit during the boil. Adding the extract should bring you up to about 6.25 gallons at the beginning of the boil so you should end up with about 5.25 gallons and have some wort "lost" to the hops sludge so you'd get 5 gallons into the fermenter. Well, more or less- some of us boil off more than a gallon an hour but it's a good starting point. You can always top up at the end with more water to get to 5 gallons.

cara20 is a bit light. I'd get 40L if you can, but you will do find with that if you can't find it.

If you want to use DME instead of LME (and I would, if the only choice is canned extract), you can use 8 pounds of dry extract instead. It usually comes in 1 and 3 pound bags, so you could get exactly the right amount.

I weigh my priming sugar on a kitchen scale, which I think is more accurate than going by "cups" measurements. I think 3/4 cup would be about right, but I would use 5 ounces by weight.

Thanks yooper.

I can't find cara 40, but midwest supplies lists cara 45L (http://www.midwestsupplies.com/cara-45l-castle.html), would that work? I'm not sure what the numbers mean but I'm guessing it has to do with how dark/light the grains are.

I also found Munton & Fison (UK) Light DME there which I'm guessing would work for a DME, and they sell the 3 & 1 Lbs bags too

I also just noticed midwest has a scale for $7, so I might just add that to the list of supplies when I go shopping to measure out my sugar


Thank you for your help, it is greatly appreciated!!!

I would get this one: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/caramel-40l-briess.html (it's a little cheaper) but the cara would be fine also!