Mounting Electronics

Just wondering if anybody could explain how mounting of electronics (buttons, SSR, heatsink, etc) into an enclosure is done. Mostly wondering how to cut holes and mount an external control into said hole.

I'm trying to part out a control panel for a HERMS and am wondering what additional tools (if any) will be necessary.

Thanks,
Eric

It depends on the button type completely.

Usually just a drill and maybe some long nosed pliers but, like IP said, depends entirely on the mount of the button/device.

Easy!
What about something square like a PID or attaching a heatsink to an SSR?

I draw lines on the back of what I am cutting and use an angle grinder with the cutting disk appropriate for the material. This works through metal or plastic. You can only cut straight lines this way.

For holes, step bit or hole saw.

Depends on material of control panel. Dremel tool, jigsaw, drill, razor knife, etc. can all be used for cutting various materials.

egurney said:

Easy!
What about something square like a PID or attaching a heatsink to an SSR?

Click to expand...

If you have dremel. That would work best. If you don't have a dremel and it is in your budget. Get one. I have used mine for many different things on my builds. They work great.

I cut openings for my digital thermometers and my PID with a cutoff wheel. Works on any type of material.

When mounting my SSR's I cut a square in the back of my box just a tiny bit bigger then the SSR itself. Made sure the heat sink had a surface area larger then the SSR. Used gorilla glue to seal it to the back of the box so no water can get through. I mounted the SSR to the heat sink before I applied the glue. Works great. I use the same technique to mount heat sinks to mosfets on project boxes.

Now I just need to find an enclosure!

Lowe's has cheap NEMA enclosures that are easy to cut with a dremel.

+1 on the Dremel. I use mine all the time. Last time was when I had to gouge out the Crank Sensor on my Durango. Darn Michigan Rust...

Ooops, sorry, last time was actually when I wanted to enlarge the opening on the box that holds the capacitor to my grain crusher motor.

Mounting is the fun part. Get a box, find the switches, controllers then find a way to make it look neat. I used an old security control box. My switches were from automation direct. Box and Street sign compliments from my local scrap yard. I powder coated it the same time my rig was done. I used a drill with a step drill bit to get clean exact holes. A metal saw on my jigsaw,metal file. Done!

What's the purpose of the street sign?
Should I get a back panel to mount the interior electronics or can I just mount them to the enclosure?
Is NEMA 4 required? There's going to be holes all over the box.

I have been struggling with the best way to mount an SSR to a box like everyone is listing? Do you put the heat sink in the inside or outside of the box? If it's on the outside, it needs to be in direct contact with the SSR, so how do you mount those together?

Thanks

Sorry about the street sign. Its just that it is thick aluminum, easy to drill holes into and polishes up nicely. It's for looks and strength. The stock cover was cheesy to me. The nema boxes everyone talks about are nothing more than an electrical enclosure. A Box. It doesn't matter what you put your controls in. Whatever box you use, make it yours. Paint it, cut on it, etc..

Nema 4 has to do with environmentl conditioning. it's not "just a box".
NEMA 4 – Enclosures constructed for either indoor or outdoor use to provide a degree of protection to personnel against incidental contact with the enclosed equipment; to provide a degree of protection against falling dirt, rain, sleet, snow, windblown dust, splashing water, and hose-directed water; and that will be undamaged by the external formation of ice on the enclosure.

A good thing to have when dealing with 240V and liquid.

Doesn't it become non-NEMA 4 when I start putting holes in it?

Guess that about covers what a "nema" box is. Whatever box you decide on just make sure its deep enough so none of your components bottom out on the back. When you close it, that is.