American Pale Ale Three Floyds Zombie Dust Clone

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Can we get back on topic here.

Kegged my clone Sat. Tasted amazing without dry hops. I did a 10 g batch and split it up. 5 got s04, the other us05. The s04 was extremely fruitly, shockingly. 05 was much cleaner. Not sure which I liked more.
 
Sorry milldoggy. That sounds awesome. Have you had the real ZD before for a comparison? Id like to hear your thoughts on which was closest when using those yeasts.
 
OK yes can we please get back on topic here no offense to copper and his questions.

Bottled mine last Thursday and the sample made me smile this is gonna be some good stuff. I'm gonna try one of mine on Thursday at the 1 week mark and can't wait.
 
Did a gravity and tasting of mine last night. Gravity is still high so I sanitized a spoon and have the yeast a gentle poking to break up a bit then roused. Hoping to get a few points more to drop. Lil sweet but pretty close to zombie dust. If I can get it to drop another 4 or 5 points I think I'll be pretty close.

The tasting was nice. Clean, good citra flavor. Best uncarbed beer I've ever tasted. Can't wait to dry hop this and then bottle!
 
Tried one tonight 1 week after bottling and while there were some bubbles in the bottle the beer is still flat. Flavor was good but carbonation can change things so much. Ill try another at week 2 mark.
 
Just transferred this to secondary to dry hop. Impressed at how clear it was and how much the yeast packed together and separated out. May use this yeast from now on just to get nice clear beer
 
Kegged my batch last night. Did 11 day primary and reached FG of 1.013, with apparent attenuation of 79%. Likely that high attenuation due to warm ferment at 68-70 and also my mash lasted 90 mins and dropped from 152 to 148 over that time period. It was clear in the hydrometer sample and tasted great. Dry hopping in the keg for 10 days while it carbs up, no secondary here.
 
Testing mine that was fermented with s04. This bottle is not even dry hopped and it is amazing. Missing some aroma, but the bitterness is spot on
 
For the clarity issue make sure your getting at minimum 50ppm of calcium in your brewing water. This will ensure proper/quick yeast hop flocculation.


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hopfaced84 said:
For the clarity issue make sure your getting at minimum 50ppm of calcium in your brewing water. This will ensure proper/quick yeast hop flocculation.


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Click to expand...


Honest question...is this true? I am not a water/chemistry specialist. Seems like a lot of other variables may impact it, not just calcium content. Can you expand?
 
Calcium is typically the principal ion creating hardness in water. It is beneficial for mashing and enzyme action and is essential for yeast cell composition. Typical wort produced with wheat or barley contains more than enough calcium for yeast health. In the mash, calcium reacts with the malt phosphates to lower the mash pH by precipitating calcium phosphate and liberating protons (H+). Calcium improves the flocculation of trub and yeast and limits the extraction of grain husk astringency. It also reduces haze and gushing potential, improves wort runoff from the lauter tun, and improves hop flavors. The ideal range for calcium ion concentration in ales may be 50 to 100 ppm although exceeding this range may cause phosphorus (an essential yeast nutrient) to precipitate excessively out of solution. Since oxalates are also precipitated through complexing with calcium, insufficient calcium in brewing water may contribute to beerstone (calcium oxalate) formation. A minimum concentration of 40 ppm calcium is recommended to reduce beerstone formation potential. Calcium concentration of less than 40 ppm can be tolerated in brewing water for beers that benefit from less mineralization (ie. pilsners and light lagers) with the understanding that additional measures may be needed to ensure adequate yeast health, beer clarification, and beerstone removal.
Brewing with very low calcium content water will not impair fermentation since barley and wheat provide sufficient calcium for yeast health. The primary difficulties with brewing with very low calcium water is that yeast flocculation may be impaired and beerstone formation may affect equipment. Both of these problems can be alleviated through practices such as lagering, filtering, and active maintenance for beerstone removal. The calcium content of brewing water should generally conform to the calcium content that the original yeast evolved to. An English yeast might expect high calcium content water while a Czech yeast might expect very low calcium content. Another consideration is that the calcium content for brewing water may be tailored to increase or decrease yeast flocculation. For example, if a yeast is known to drop out prematurely, then reducing calcium content could be employed to reduce that tendency. For most lager brewing, low calcium content water is more likely to produce better results. Brewing water with low or no calcium content can be OK for Lagers.
Increasing the calcium content of mash water is a useful tool for reducing the pH of the mash water. Calcium content has little effect on beer flavor but it is paired with anions that may increase the minerally flavor of the water when present at elevated concentrations. (Note: adding calcium to sparging water does not reduce the water’s pH or alkalinity since there are no malt phytins present. An acid must be used to reduce the alkalinity and pH of sparging water.)
Magnesium is typically the secondary ion creating hardness in water. It accentuates flavor with a sour bitterness when present at low concentration, but it is astringent at high concentration.
Click to expand...

This is a decent read for a fast overview of water chemistry
https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge
 
Just brewed this up again. It is my first repeat beer. Brewed it last year and it was good. hoping it is much better this time since I have learned a ton since then and do yeast starters, water chemistry and temp control these days, not to mention I can hit my numbers and make what im trying to make haha.
 
I swear, the more I read, the more confused I get! You guessed it, first time brewer here! This is going to be my first brew and I am picking here to throw out my question on this recipe and my first brew.


Here is the extract/PM conversion:

Batch Size: 5g
Boil Volume: 3g

6.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 70.6 %
1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 11.8 %
0.50 lb Carafoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 %
0.50 lb Melanoiden Malt (20.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 %
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (60 min) Hops 25.1 IBU
0.75 oz Citra [12.40%] (First Wort Hop) Hops 12.5 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (15 min) Hops 12.4 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (10 min) Hops 9.1 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (5 min) Hops 5.0 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (1 min) Hops 1.1 IBU
3.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (Dry Hop 10 days) Hops -
SafAle English Ale (S-04)
or
Wyeast 1968




This is assuming a 3g boil, so if you can do a full boil remove the extra oz of hops at 60minutes. Why is this??




- Do all the grains go in the same grain bag?( i keep hearing steeping/partial mash like they are they same. Different temps, correct?)

- I would mash at 150-152 for 1 hour.

- If am doing a full boil, how much should my total water be in my brew kettle?

- if I factor 1.25qt/lb for my mash, that is 2.65 gallons of water. Then is the quanity of water I sparge with the difference between say 6 gallons( factoring in evap and trub loss) and the original 2.65 gallons?

- Or is there a specific amt of water I would sparge with and then just top of to 6 gallons for full boil?

- is sparge water always 170 degrees?

- Would I add my FWH after my sparge when I have reached the quantity for my boil? I am just guessing 6 gallons.

Thank you for helping out a rookie! I am so excited about getting started but I really want to make sure I am ready.

Thanks
 
I can't help you, but your questions are good and I am interested in hearing the answers of these wise folks.
 
Baldy246 said:
I swear, the more I read, the more confused I get! You guessed it, first time brewer here! This is going to be my first brew and I am picking here to throw out my question on this recipe and my first brew.


Here is the extract/PM conversion:

Batch Size: 5g
Boil Volume: 3g

6.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 70.6 %
1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 11.8 %
0.50 lb Carafoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 %
0.50 lb Melanoiden Malt (20.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 %
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (60 min) Hops 25.1 IBU
0.75 oz Citra [12.40%] (First Wort Hop) Hops 12.5 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (15 min) Hops 12.4 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (10 min) Hops 9.1 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (5 min) Hops 5.0 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (1 min) Hops 1.1 IBU
3.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (Dry Hop 10 days) Hops -
SafAle English Ale (S-04)
or
Wyeast 1968




1) This is assuming a 3g boil, so if you can do a full boil remove the extra oz of hops at 60minutes. Why is this??

2) - Do all the grains go in the same grain bag?( i keep hearing steeping/partial mash like they are they same. Different temps, correct?)

3) - I would mash at 150-152 for 1 hour.

4) - If am doing a full boil, how much should my total water be in my brew kettle?

5) - if I factor 1.25qt/lb for my mash, that is 2.65 gallons of water. Then is the quanity of water I sparge with the difference between say 6 gallons( factoring in evap and trub loss) and the original 2.65 gallons?

6) - Or is there a specific amt of water I would sparge with and then just top of to 6 gallons for full boil?

7) - is sparge water always 170 degrees?

8) - Would I add my FWH after my sparge when I have reached the quantity for my boil? I am just guessing 6 gallons.

Thank you for helping out a rookie! I am so excited about getting started but I really want to make sure I am ready.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Let's see if I can help you out. I numbered your questions to map the answers more easily.

1) If you're doing a partial boil, you don't get full hop utilization. Additional hops at the 60 minute mark will help achieve the full bitterness intended when doing a full-boil.

2) all grains go in the same bag and are mashed (or steeped in your case) at the same temp. Munich malt does need to convert though, and you won't get much from it just being steeped, but that's ok, no need to change anything.

3) The above recipe, to me, is an extract recipe with steeping grains. True the munich being steeped is null, but don't worry about that. When steeping grains, you are not actually mashing. What I suggest new brewers do is when you're bringing your water up to boil, throw in your sack of steeping grains. When you get to 155deg F, remove the sack. Done. :)

4) To calculate your total water in your boil kettle, you'll need to know your boil-off rate. This is how much water is evaporated to steam over an hour. Typically, if you are wanting 5gallons in your BK after boil, you need to have 6gallons in your BK before your boil. For this recipe, if you did a 5gallon full-boil batch, start out with 6 gallons in your bk.

5) Again, I don't believe you're mashing. Ignore the mashing instructions. If you want to substitute some pale malt (2-row) in for some of that DME, then I'd say you're mashing. But the fact that this recipe has 1 pound of mashing grains is silly to say this is a partial mash recipe.

6) I highly recommend using the software BeerSmith for volumetric questions. I used it when I did extract batches, just to help keep track of timings and also help in recipe development. I now use it to help determine water volumes and mashing temps.

7) Sparge water can be 165-170deg F. If you go too much hotter, you can extract tannins from the grains. When I extract brewed, I'd pour gallons through my sparge. This excess amount of sparging was also extracting tannins. The people I know now that extract brew don't sparge their steeped grains at all.

8) Yes. :)

Best of luck! I have not yet brewed this, but I've had the great opportunity to have a 6er of the real thing (6days old!!!) and was blown away. I'll be brewing this one when I knock out my brewing backlog.

Cheers!
 
Doing BIAB all grain method on this. Is a 8 gallon BK gonna be big enough? And how much water should I start with? Any advice would be great! First time brewing with all my brand new equip.
 
My kegged version tastes a lot like Sculpin. I've never had the real ZD so I don't know how it is supposed to taste. Do Sculpin and ZD have similar tastes?
 
Tried my second bottle today after bottling 1.5 weeks ago. WOW!!!!! Best beer I've made so far. The citra and the grainbill work so well together its just perfect blend and this batch is super clear, clearest beer I've made yet, the yeast done well and cold crashed 5 days. I dont know what the real thing tastes like, have buddy holding a 6'er for me in Ind., but this beer is awesome. It's a staple for me no doubt. Nice work skeezer on the recipe thanks for sharing.
 
I got all my ingredients and am planning on brewing this Saturday. I have a question about the hops though. When I plug the recipe into Beersmith, the calculated IBU is 90. ZD IBU is 50. Am I missing something?


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hezagenius said:
My kegged version tastes a lot like Sculpin. I've never had the real ZD so I don't know how it is supposed to taste. Do Sculpin and ZD have similar tastes?
Click to expand...


Similar tastes, a bit in my opinion but you can tell the difference between the two
 
cM1MUFC.png
 
hawgwild81 said:
I got all my ingredients and am planning on brewing this Saturday. I have a question about the hops though. When I plug the recipe into Beersmith, the calculated IBU is 90. ZD IBU is 50. Am I missing something?


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Click to expand...

Don't worry about Beersmith and don't scale back the hops. You won't regret it this is a great beer per original recipe. I did a split batch with S04 and S05, hard to tell which one I liked better. Gonna take another week in each keg before I decide.
 
mascervesa said:
Don't worry about Beersmith and don't scale back the hops. You won't regret it this is a great beer per original recipe. I did a split batch with S04 and S05, hard to tell which one I liked better. Gonna take another week in each keg before I decide.
Click to expand...

Same here. Leaning towards 04
 
Made this recipe on Saturday using rehydrated Safale 04. Unfortunately, my OG was little low at 1.059. Took a few days to get a krauzen at 62 degrees (internal wort temp.), but it's chugging away now. What is coming out of the airlock smells great. I love Citra and am looking forward to tasting this one even though I have never had the real thing.
 
mascervesa said:
Don't worry about Beersmith and don't scale back the hops. You won't regret it this is a great beer per original recipe. I did a split batch with S04 and S05, hard to tell which one I liked better. Gonna take another week in each keg before I decide.
Click to expand...


Will do, thanks. I was planning on doing it per the recipe. I was just wondering if I was overlooking something. I'm splitting mine between Conan and what I'm assuming is 1958. I harvested it from Gumballhead. I know the Conan will make it a totally different beer. I'm just curious to see how it turns out.


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brewed this up last night. woke up this morning to check and it had already begun fermenting. can't wait to drink this!

zombie dust.jpg
 
Drank a couple more of mine tonight, they're 2 weeks bottled carbed and this is just a Citra bomb with just the right amount of grain/malt backbone actually mine dropped low for FG so it's a little drier I guess but I like my IPA's that way I think the hops shine through better. Mine finished at 7.1% and is dangerously drinkeable.
 
olotti said:
Drank a couple more of mine tonight, they're 2 weeks bottled carbed and this is just a Citra bomb with just the right amount of grain/malt backbone actually mine dropped low for FG so it's a little drier I guess but I like my IPA's that way I think the hops shine through better. Mine finished at 7.1% and is dangerously drinkeable.
Click to expand...

Mine ended up near 8%. Dangerously drinkable indeed. One too many and you're incoherent... Dare I say, the walking dead?

This good stuff. I'll be rebrewing again soon.
 

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