What size false bottom for a Rubbermaid 10-gallon round cooler?

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Q2XL

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I am looking to buy a false bottom for my 10-gallon cooler. Midwest Supply says a 10" fits the 10 gallon size. Northern Brewer says the 12" fits the cooler. I am not sure who is right.

Anyone have some experience with this cooler/false bottom combo?
 
Hi Q2XL,
I don't know if this is any help but, it so happens that I just finished a temple for my own 10 gal rubbermaid. The cooler is 12 3/4" just before it hits the radius at the bottom.
 
12" is what you need I noticed the same thing on MW site when I was ordering and notified them of the error, perhaps they don't care.
 
I use the 12" Phil's Phalse Bottom from Listermann.com in my 10 gallon Gott.

phalsebottom.jpg


Fits and works perfectly.
 
I am looking to buy a false bottom for my 10-gallon cooler. Midwest Supply says a 10" fits the 10 gallon size. Northern Brewer says the 12" fits the cooler. I am not sure who is right.

Anyone have some experience with this cooler/false bottom combo?

I ordered the 12" one from Midwest for my 10 gallon cooler (I like to brag about my big 12"-er). Seriously, though, the only issue I have with it is that I have insert it carefully (sounds like I'm continuing on the previous statement, but I'm not), since the kewler kitz bulkhead fitting that I have extends a bit into the tun. I have to put the side in underneath the valve first to avoid scratching the inside of the tun. Not a big deal, really.
 
I ordered the 12" one from Midwest for my 10 gallon cooler (I like to brag about my big 12"-er). Seriously, though, the only issue I have with it is that I have insert it carefully (sounds like I'm continuing on the previous statement, but I'm not), since the kewler kitz bulkhead fitting that I have extends a bit into the tun. I have to put the side in underneath the valve first to avoid scratching the inside of the tun. Not a big deal, really.


Thats exactily right, I cranked the crap out of my kewler kit before putting in the FB and it wouldn't fit. I got pissed and forced it which scratched the sides some but no biggie and you don't have to remove it to clean.
 
I also use the Rubbermaid (HLT & MLT) setup but was wondering about using a false bottom in the Rubbermaid with the "bump out" on the interior of the cooler that has happened in each cooler (or I should say "happens" when I add the strike water or mash water). I currently use a SS braid but have had some problems. Wondering if the 12" FB will fit with the bump out. Montanaandy
 
I'm using a 9" false bottom on mine, because I had originally planned on going with a 5-gal cooler but changed my mind. I still get 80%+ efficiency.
 
In my limited experience all the coolers are different sizes and unless your going to use a "domed" style that will sit on the very bottom of the cooler and attach to a dip tube, you'll need to cut it to fit (if you want a good fit)
Cheers
Jay
 
I'm using a 9" false bottom on mine, because I had originally planned on going with a 5-gal cooler but changed my mind. I still get 80%+ efficiency.

I am about to upgrade from 5 gallon to 10 gallon and currently own the 9 inch false bottom. Looks like the above poster has had no ill effects with his 9 inch false bottom with a 10 gallon cooler. Just wondering if anyone else knows of any pro's and con's with this method. If I can save myself $30 by using my old false bottom I will certainly keep using my smaller one.
 
NECROBUMP!!!

Would like to see some more input on whether or not people are having success using the smaller sized false bottoms in a 10 gallon rubbermaid mlt.

I have the weldless fitting portion of my tun done and it passed the leak test, now I'm looking to add my manifold. On the inside of my tun I have the nipple and coupling that extends out from the inside wall.

My worry is that the 12" will be a pain to maneuver around that coupling, and I don't want to disassemble the weldless fitting every time if I don't have to.

So - anyone out there using a 10" false bottom in a cooler like this? Does it stay on the bottom or do you have float issues? Do you get stuck sparges often? What kind of efficiency do you normally get?

EDIT: this is the one I'm considering - http://www.midwestsupplies.com/10-stainless-steel-false-bottom.html

Thanks in advance!
 
My worry is that the 12" will be a pain to maneuver around that coupling, and I don't want to disassemble the weldless fitting every time if I don't have to.

Just FYI,
I just received my 12" false bottom (Morebeer version). It doesn't fit past my Rubbermaid's weldless valve, but to maneuver it in, all I have to do is unscrew the coupler from the back of the valve (i.e., no disassembly of the sealing parts). Not really a hassle at all, IMHO.

-R
 
I'm just waiting for the rest of my parts to arrive. One of the suppliers I ordered from (HomeBrewStuff.com) took forever to ship the order so I now have to wait until Monday :(

Anyway, my point here is (and I do have one): As long as it fits in without the coupler and hose barb, who cares? Even if you had to disassemble some of the bulkhead, it's not that big of a deal. Wouldn't you completely take the system apart for a proper cleaning before/after each use, anyway?

Looking forward to my first AG batch Monday night!
 
Midwest Supplies sells an 11 inch false bottom that fits great in a 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler, the web sight says it fits tight, but it really fits perfectly if you are careful with it. good compromise between the 10 and 12 inch options.
 
Is it actually better to get a slightly smaller false bottom for efficiency? i.e. it would help direct the water towards the middle instead of along the walls of the cooler? Or is it better to have a perfect fit across the entire bottom like a 12" false-bottom would do for a 10gal cooler?
 
I have the same question, I recently aquired a 10" false bottom for free (SCORE!!), and was wondering if there would be any negative effects for using it in a 10 gallon cooler.

It is a domes style with a drain connection, and I am sure that the weight of the grain would hold it down when in use so I shouldn't have to worry too much about grains slipping past it, was just wondering if I would see any benefit by upgrading to an appropriate sized FB or not.
 
Skip the false bottom and get a bazooka screen for under $17. I got a false bottom originally and the grain got under immediately. I found it was slightly warped. I posted about using a bazooka screen and Edwort said he uses the exact same 12" one as the one I linked from Northern Brewer and Midwest. Ever since then my drain and sparges have gone flawlessly. I returned the false bottom which was 3x the price.


Rev.
 
Seems like that would be OK for batch sparging, but for fly sparging wouldn't that present a lot of issues with channeling?
 
Only problem I see with using a smaller false bottom would be when you go to stir the mash, I could see a potential problem with the false bottom shifting back and forth while your stirring possibly causing grain to get underneath it or worse, detaching the tubing from the false bottom to the cooler valve.
 
I made a long drive this weekend with the wife and kid, to the only Home Depot within an hour's drive which carried the 10-gallon Rubbermaid round beverage cooler. I got the last one and headed home. I had already purchased more than enough fittings, a 3-piece valve, and a false bottom so I was ready to assemble.

Well, I was thoroughly disappointed with the fit of everything. Apparently, Rubbermaid has recently changed their design somewhat. First off, the bottom of the cooler is not flat. The outer perimeter of the floor of the cooler is slightly recessed; exactly the opposite of what I expected. To better explain it would be that if there were just a small amount of liquid in the cooler, it would form a ring around the bottom perimeter of the cooler before the level is high enough to completely cover the bottom. I have read some posts that say the diameter at the bottom is slightly smaller making the 12" false bottoms fit nice and tight. This is NOT the case with my cooler.

If you think about this for a second, you will realize that this almost completely eliminates the ability to use a false bottom, not to mention increasing dead space beneath it. In fact, my domed false bottom that I got from AIH does not sit flat on the bottom of the cooler. There are a few problems here; first the false bottom I received was warped, and rocks back and forth when set on a flat surface like a table. This of course is not the cooler's fault, I'll have to take this up with AIH. Secondly, the recessed perimeter on the floor of the cooler causes a domed false bottom to ride around on it like trying to balance on a saddle. Also, the diameter at the floor of the cooler is nearly the same as the top, and this false bottom is in NO WAY a tight fit. I can easily slide it back and forth as much as a 1/2" either way, and it easily clears my internal fitting.

I did however put together a slightly shorter fitting for the inside of the bulkhead using a 1/2" Female hose barb which fastens directly to the nipple, no coupler needed. I did this because everyone said it was such a tight fit and had to be disassembled to insert the false bottom. This is NOT the case.

Lastly, the spigot on the outside is recessed and the washers provided by bargainfittings.com are larger than the recessed area, and only one washer can fit on the nipple before barely threading on the valve; not three washers like bargainfittings.com claims.

I will take photos once I get home, although it may be difficult to see clearly. I'm afraid this setup fits so poorly, that as soon as I attempt to stir the mash, the grist will get under the false bottom and I will have a disaster on my hands.

Oh, and by the way... I'm not going to use a braid so please don't try to talk me into it. :cross:

Edit: By the way, this cooler has a "Home Depot" sticker on the front and has Rubbermaid printed on the bottom. Not the Rubbermaid logo on the front of the cooler.
 
Here is an example of what the floor of the cooler would look like if cut in half;

(It's of course a smooth radius and not jagged like in the model)

cooler.jpg
 
If the false bottom is appropriately sized, wouldn't that make for a nice lip for it to sit in so that it could actually collect a bit more of the liquid and reduce the tun dead space a bit?
 
If the false bottom is appropriately sized, wouldn't that make for a nice lip for it to sit in so that it could actually collect a bit more of the liquid and reduce the tun dead space a bit?

Perhaps if it were the exact radius and diameter to match the contour of the floor. That could get expensive shipping false bottom's back and forth until you found one that fits just right. The floor is so slick, the stainless just slides around on top of this "plateau" because it doesn't touch the sides of the cooler wall. That's why I was content in hearing that the 12" FB fit "very tight," which it doesn't in this model. :(

The dead space in the tun will always be at the point directly under where the elbow terminates through the center of the FB hole. In other words, just below the top of the dome. Any additional volume in the tun below this point will only increase dead space. A more ideal tun floor would be lower in the center, and the pickup would extend through a flat FB and terminate right above the center of the tun floor.

I'll be home in a while and try to get some pictures to show what's going on.
 
Hmmmm, I think I understand, but I am curious about the pics. It seems like it wouldn't be too hard to just adjust the tun dead space in your calculations though. Making sure the FB stays seated is the tricky part.
 
Here is an example of what the floor of the cooler would look like if cut in half;

(It's of course a smooth radius and not jagged like in the model)

Interesting...

I have a orange "ribbed" 10 gal. Rubbermaid cooler that has "Gatorade" logo on it and Rubbermaid on the bottom. The top screws on...

I been using it for almost a year with just a screen made from a high pressure water hose.

I want to to switch to a FB to get a higher efficiency since I am in the 50 to 60% range now....

I have noticed in mine what your talking about...it has a slight rise in the middle...I would really like to find a FB that can take advantage of this design...

What did you find out?
 
I just bought the same cooler the other day. The real model on the bottom says Rubbermaid 1610 got it on sale for 35 at HD. Not putting in any type of manifold or false bottom in it anytime soon. I appreciate the invaluable research though jcraig!

As for the kits with washers I thought I remember reading somewhere that you need to cut the washers down. Oh! It was the easy mash tun 10 gal cooler tutorial on the site...
 
I haven't tried it out yet but I just got this stainless steel coil spring from a German company called MattMill for my new mash tun project. I hooked it up to a 1/2" ball valve in a 10 gallon igloo cooler. The springs thread into the "T" joint so they are easily removable for cleaning.

mash tun false bottom.jpg


mash tun.jpg
 
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