Will this work, at all?

Time to show off my mad paint skills.

Basically curious if it's possible to use a left over STC-1000, that I mistakenly bought as a temp controller. To operate a heating element for my HLT.

I know the amperage out isn't good enough for the element, but do they have some sort of electric switch or relay that the STC-1000 can "turn on" and supply direct power from the outlet to the element?

I hope this makes sense....

Sure. A relay will work fine.

The STC doesn't switch too fast, so you could probably get away with a contactor relay (DPST, 120V coil, 30A minimum contact rating). They have em for about $9 on amazon. For longevity's sake, you could also go the SSR route, and either get an SSR that takes 120V control voltage, or use any wall wort to step the 120V from the STC-1000 down to the 3-32VDC for the SSR. (SSRs are types of relays, solid state. You can get em for about $15 with a heat sink from China on ebay, or $40 with heat sink from the US).

The STC is not going to work NEARLY as well as a PID would for maintaining mash temps, for example. It will probably overshoot a bit, and it won't hold you to as tight a range, (±1°C instead of ±0.1°C with a PID). But it'd work. I wouldn't use it for something like a RIMS...it would never keep it in control. But for a HERMS setup it would work fine. Many people use LOVE and other temp controllers for HERMS setups, especially if they are direct fired with propane. No reason it won't work for e-HERMS.

I thought the stc had finer control than 1 degree. No real biggy, I want it mostly to for my HLT so I can out it on a timer and be ready to mash when I wake up. Thanks!

I just tested my electric HLT for the first time. Mine uses a 120V 1500W element and takes about an hour to get 7 gallons of water to 180. I'm using this mechanical relay with no problems. All the electronics fit inside a 6x6 project box. If you go 220 things get a lot more complicated and expensive.

I'm no electrician, but:
You'll want a relay on both hot legs of the 220.
Make sure you have a 220 GFI.
If you power the STC-1000 off one leg of the 220 line, does it need it's own breaker?
You'll need neutral and ground. Do you have a four wire 220V receptacle installed?

Edit:
My diagram:

Well if u can get that much water heated to mash out in an hour, I might just go 120v, as I have one more 120v stc left.

I figured 120v would be > one hour yo 180

If you have a neutral, you can use one leg of the 220V service to give you 110V service. You only need a relay on ONE hot leg of the element, not both.

shortyjacobs said:

If you have a neutral, you can use one leg of the 220V service to give you 110V service. You only need a relay on ONE hot leg of the element, not both.

Click to expand...

If you only have a relay on one leg it will turn the element on and off, but when it is off there is still 110V at the element. It's a safety issue.

phoenixs4r said:

Well if u can get that much water heated to mash out in an hour, I might just go 120v, as I have one more 120v stc left.

I figured 120v would be > one hour yo 180

Click to expand...

If you have a 20 amp line available, you can use a 2000 watt element.

Well, it's a rental, and it used to have a hot tub so I have a 30amp 220 and a 20 amp 22 available I think.... I'll have to take a picture and show you guys.

mikeal said:

I just tested my electric HLT for the first time. Mine uses a 120V 1500W element and takes about an hour to get 7 gallons of water to 180. I'm using this mechanical relay with no problems. All the electronics fit inside a 6x6 project box. If you go 220 things get a lot more complicated and expensive.

I'm no electrician, but:
You'll want a relay on both hot legs of the 220.
Make sure you have a 220 GFI.
If you power the STC-1000 off one leg of the 220 line, does it need it's own breaker?
You'll need neutral and ground. Do you have a four wire 220V receptacle installed?

Edit:
My diagram:

Click to expand...

Nice information. I am needing to do this cause I blow one of my stc controllers. My only question is that I have 2- 2000 watt heating elements. Will this be able to work. What short of relay would I need. I think I'm need a 30A?

That's funny, since I posted this, I have upgraded to two 2000W elements on two seperate 110V circuits.

I used this DPST 30A relay.

I'm really happy with the way it performs. 15 gallons to 165 in an hour.

mikeal said:

That's funny, since I posted this, I have upgraded to two 2000W elements on two seperate 110V circuits.

I used this DPST 30A relay.

I'm really happy with the way it performs. 15 gallons to 165 in an hour.

Click to expand...

My question is why go this route when for less than $20 with shipping you can get a rex c100 pid ,temp probe and 2 ssrs to drive everything with much better long term reliability and way beter temp control?