WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast

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I made a 1 liter starter with the super yeast and pitched it in a batch of Biermuncher's Centennial Blonde a few days ago. Been fermenting at 66 degrees. It started within about 5 hours and fermented extremely vigorously for the first two days. Today it has slowed down considerably, I think I'll take a gravity reading tomorrow (OG was 1.040-1.042). After I rack this batch I plan on brewing something stronger and pitching onto the yeast cake.
 
Tried this on a low gravity pale/wheat recipe yesterday. Started at 1.041 and it's down to 1.014 after 24 hours. Used starter ratio of 1L/5g on a stir plate with pure O2 in the starter and in the fermenters. Fermenters are sitting in a warm spot now, around 72F. Fermentation kicked off in 6 hours and was in full swing by 12 hours.

Using this yeast to experiment how fast I can get from grain to glass, target is 4 days. I'll report back next weekend.
 
Used starter ratio of 1L/5g on a stir plate with pure O2 in the starter and in the fermenters.

What was your actual starter/batch size?

Using this yeast to experiment how fast I can get from grain to glass, target is 4 days.

Do you mean grain to keg in 4 days, or are you taking into account some kind of vigorous speed carbing?
 
Cool, got a link to the experiment, Id like to read up.

Here it is.


Well experiences so far with this strain. I started fermentation at 60 alongside a barley wine fermenting with pacman. I did this since I heard pacman is not such a beast at 60 degrees. The super yeast started pretty quick 4-6 hours. It fermented really slow though and this was only a 1.068 beer using a 2 liter starter. I assume this was because of the slightly lower temperature. After a week it was only down to 1.026. I got both batches up to 68 to finish off. After a day the super yeast batch got down to 1.012. That said I don't think its pacman as some people are saying. The yeast did give high attenuation but left some maltiness. Its closer to wlp001 then pacman IMO.
 
I just tried San Diego Super with an all-grain American amber ale. I pitched it at 9PM Sunday night. It was bubbling like mad when I got home Monday evening, and today, Tuesday morning, the apparent fermentation has slowed considerably. I'll pull a sample for testing tonight. It started at 64 OG (a little big for an amber ale) and I'm hoping for attenuation down to about 10. The yeast bottle recommends pitching and fermenting at 70-75F. I put it in at 72. Since then I've heard that the higher temp can slow it down, and/or inhibit full attenuation. Any thoughts on this? Is there any benefit to cooling it down over a few days to 66?
 
Even come winter, I don't think I could keep any part of my house within a 3 degree temperature range that was that low, let alone in summer... just my personal, humble opinion.
 
specs are way different than pacman:

wlp090
Optimal Fermentation Temperature: 65-68F
Attenuation: 76-83% +
Flocculation: Medium-High
Alcohol Tolerance: High

wyeast 1764 Pacman
Alc. Tolerance 12% ABV
Flocculation med-high
Attenuation 72-78%
Temp. Range 60-72°F (15-22°C)
 
I bottled my blonde ale that I fermented with the super yeast 6 days ago, and I was thinking: If it ferements so quickly, I bet it carbonates in the bottles quickly also. So I cracked open a bottle, and at 6 days it is pretty much fully carbonated already. I've never had a bottle-conditioned beer that was drinkable so quickly. I really like this stuff! We'll see how the wheatwine I brewed and pitched onto the cake turns out, fermentation on it has slowed way down and I'll be transferring it to secondary tomorrow.
 
Even come winter, I don't think I could keep any part of my house within a 3 degree temperature range that was that low, let alone in summer... just my personal, humble opinion.

The nice thing is that since it ferments out so quickly, you don't need to maintain the temperature for very long. I just put my fermenter in a tub of cold water and throw a little ice in there a couple times a day when it starts to get too warm. Over the course of a normal fermentation, this would be a pain but since it's only a few days it is not too bad.
 
I just tested my amber ale -- after 54 hours it went from 64 to 30. Interesting. I'm not seeing as much activity (bubbling) at this point, though. Still, dropping 34 points 2 1/2 days after pitching is pretty impressive. I was in a rush (I know, never rush your brewing) and pitched the bottle straight, no starter. It will be interesting to see how my next batch goes with a good starter.
 
What happens if this gets too cold? Does it cause a problem if you dip below 65, or get stuck with the fermentation or similar?
 
What happens if this gets too cold? Does it cause a problem if you dip below 65, or get stuck with the fermentation or similar?

I fermented at about 64 with it, turned out just fine. Attenuated exactly the same as US-05 did for me.
 
What happens if this gets too cold? Does it cause a problem if you dip below 65, or get stuck with the fermentation or similar?

Mine turned out fine with my temp. held from 61-64 ( but that's the reading on my stick-on fermometer, I usually assume it's a few degrees higher inside the fermenter ). Took my blonde ale from 1.042 to 1.010 in 3 days.
 
On second read, this doesn't seem like a "good" experiment at all. I've never knew the Pacman yeast was reputed to ferment out in 3 days though...

Yeah I didn't really mean for my post to be taken as an experiment. It wasn't a split batch and I didn't use them to compare them I just like pacman in barley wines. Fermenting pacman at 60 was a good tip as it still left plenty of body in the barley wine. This yeast seems be a little temperature dependent as it was kind of slow fermenting at 60, raising it to 68 made it finish out quick though. I still think they are different strains but of course I could be wrong. It seems to floc out better then wlp001 but pacman flocs out a littler better/faster for me. Overall I might choose the super yeast over wlp001 in the future but who knows if they will keep making it.
 
I have a 1.055 Amber that looks like its finishing up today. I fermented in my chamber cold, having ambient temperature set around 58. I always add about 5-8deg during fermentation, I wanted to keep this beer perfectly on the low end of the spectrum. I will pull a SG tonight and see how she tatstes...
 
What was your actual starter/batch size?



Do you mean grain to keg in 4 days, or are you taking into account some kind of vigorous speed carbing?

The starter was 2L and the batch was 10G, actually closer to 11G. And I did mean grain to GLASS in 4 days, which I accomplished. I'm sure it will taste better in the coming week(s) depending on how long it lasts.

For carbing, I force carbed by hooking up to a CO2 tank at room temp at 40-45psi and shaking the living hell out of the kegs for about 15 minutes. Shake for a few seconds, wait for the CO2 tank to stop hissing, shake some more, etc. I then tossed the keg into my kegerator at 40*F and attached to CO2 @ 25psi. 24 hours later it was sufficiently carbed, but higher carbonation would be nice plus it would help cover the green beer taste.

That was all 24 hours ago, so I'm going to take another QA sample riiiiight now!
 
The starter was 2L and the batch was 10G, actually closer to 11G. And I did mean grain to GLASS in 4 days, which I accomplished. I'm sure it will taste better in the coming week(s) depending on how long it lasts.

For carbing, I force carbed by hooking up to a CO2 tank at room temp at 40-45psi and shaking the living hell out of the kegs for about 15 minutes. Shake for a few seconds, wait for the CO2 tank to stop hissing, shake some more, etc. I then tossed the keg into my kegerator at 40*F and attached to CO2 @ 25psi. 24 hours later it was sufficiently carbed, but higher carbonation would be nice plus it would help cover the green beer taste.

That was all 24 hours ago, so I'm going to take another QA sample riiiiight now!

I respect the ambition, but the beer's flavor would improve faster at room temperature on the full yeast cake. By racking the beer of the yeast and chilling it, you're slowing down the metabolic processes that are responsible for cleaning up the beer's flavor profile. I think leaving the beer on the yeast for a week or two would result in better beer sooner. "Super yeast" or not, final gravity is not the only measure by which a beer is "done." It needs to taste done, too.

Like I said, nice job knocking out 10 gallons faster than most 5 gallon batches are done rocking through their primary fermentation -- but it's not the best way to make beer.
 
For carbing, I force carbed by hooking up to a CO2 tank at room temp at 40-45psi and shaking the living hell out of the kegs for about 15 minutes. Shake for a few seconds, wait for the CO2 tank to stop hissing, shake some more, etc.

Be careful with this method -- it's easy to overcarb, and if you go too far, you'll end up creating carbonic acid in the beer, which gives a pretty harsh flavor. I accidentally did this with a brown ale recently, and it took some time for that flavor to mellow out.

I usually just hook it up to 40 psi overnight (after chilling), and by the next morning it's pretty well carb'd. I'm going to avoid the shaking method from this point on.
 
Turns out that my Spectometer is screwed up. When I tested with a regular hydrometer, I'm at 15, which is a little higher than I was expecting, but not all that surprising because I had a high percentage of non-fermentables (hence the higher than expected "efficiency" of my my mash.) So, I have a 6.4% ABV final (1.064 to 1.015) achieved in 48 hours. No question, this is a fast yeast. It's been on the trub for a week, so I'll transfer it to a keg and let it finish there. Meanwhile, I harvested some of the yeast and have a starter going for a dark ale I'll brew this weekend. Let's see how it does this time!
 
This may not necessarily be a WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast problem, but this is the first time I've used this yeast and this was the result. You can see that the rubber stopper/blow off tube was completely blown off and about 3 gallons of wort was blown off. I brewed this Saturday and by Sunday it had started fermenting. The starting temp was in the 50's because my new controller was reading next to the door and kept the fridge on for awhile. I adjusted that and got the temp to around 64. It had been fermenting for 2 days and was a normal fermentation with krausen blowing off through the tube. This is what my wife found this morning after I went to work (fortunately, she loves brewing as much as I do). Any thoughts about why this might have happened?

IMAG0096.jpg


IMAG0097.jpg
 
This may not necessarily be a WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast problem, but this is the first time I've used this yeast and this was the result. You can see that the rubber stopper/blow off tube was completely blown off and about 3 gallons of wort was blown off. I brewed this Saturday and by Sunday it had started fermenting. The starting temp was in the 50's because my new controller was reading next to the door and kept the fridge on for awhile. I adjusted that and got the temp to around 64. It had been fermenting for 2 days and was a normal fermentation with krausen blowing off through the tube. This is what my wife found this morning after I went to work (fortunately, she loves brewing as much as I do). Any thoughts about why this might have happened?

DUDE! Thats some serious carnage, congrats.

Sucks about the beer though.
 
You need to strain your wort better or start using fine mesh bags for the hops. I just did a RIS coming in at 1.115 with this yeast. 11 gallons in a 13 gallon fermenter and the Krausen isn't anywhere near the airlock. The only time I've had blow off issues is when I poured a bunch of hop matter and breakage into the fermenter.
 
Used the 090 on a IIPA that was a Pliny clone it worked great got the beer from 1077 to 1011 that was at 62 degrees but the only thing is it didn't want to floc out. Took allot of time to clear up. But I may give it another try see what happens.
 
You need to strain your wort better or start using fine mesh bags for the hops. I just did a RIS coming in at 1.115 with this yeast. 11 gallons in a 13 gallon fermenter and the Krausen isn't anywhere near the airlock. The only time I've had blow off issues is when I poured a bunch of hop matter and breakage into the fermenter.

I use a hop bag and toss all the hops in there. There is virtually no hop matter by the time the wort is cooled and transferred to the fermenter.
 
You need to strain your wort better or start using fine mesh bags for the hops. I just did a RIS coming in at 1.115 with this yeast. 11 gallons in a 13 gallon fermenter and the Krausen isn't anywhere near the airlock. The only time I've had blow off issues is when I poured a bunch of hop matter and breakage into the fermenter.

I think protein has a hand in more blowoffs than hop material. Wheat beers are notorious for their blowoffs.
 
You need to strain your wort better or start using fine mesh bags for the hops. I just did a RIS coming in at 1.115 with this yeast. 11 gallons in a 13 gallon fermenter and the Krausen isn't anywhere near the airlock. The only time I've had blow off issues is when I poured a bunch of hop matter and breakage into the fermenter.

I've had 5 gallons of apfelwein bubble up into the airlock on a 7.9 gallon bucket, sometimes **** just happens.
 
San Diego Super Yeast update:

My American Amber Ale brewed fast, attenuated really well, and tastes fantastic, even though it's less than two weeks old! I have it aging in a keg, so I've sneaked a couple of samples. Very nice. The SDSY is very neutral. I won't use it again for a flavorful American ale, because it's a little TOO clean.

But that gave me an idea: I was moving in July, and wasn't able to start brewing again until late August -- too late for an Octoberfest. But the SDSY was so fast and clean...last night I brewed my "OctoberJest," using all of the ingredients I'd purchased for the Marzen/Octoberfest I didn't get to brew. I'm fermenting it on the cool end of SDSY's recommended range, then I'll raise the temp about five degrees when it appears to be done with primary, just like I would a lager. After a few days there, I'll crash the temp, keg, and let it "lager" for a couple of weeks. Then, if it's not as clear as I'd like, I'll put it through the polisher (I avoid filtering except when I want something REALLY clear.) It won't be a true Octoberfest, of course, but it should be a reasonable facsimile, suitable for drinking while singing some German Beer Hall songs. But I should have a pretty drinkable beer in plenty of time for the festivities.

I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
@bigbeergeek:
Yep, I was fully aware of the negative side effects that would ensue by rushing a beer through fermentation by all means possible. I agree it would be wise to give the yeast time to clean up, but I was more concerned with getting them to flocc out rather than clean up the byproducts - I'll deal with esters flavors better than yeast flavors. My pipeline was dry and I am pretty broke so I actually took what I had on hand and whipped up a batch as quick as I could, to keep the kegs full while I devised and executed the next brew.

@bwarbiany:
I'd heard about that side-effect, but I wanted to shake it enough so that I could hook it up inside the fridge @ 20psi (my normal kegging pressure @ 40*F) and still have it ready in a day. So instead of shaking for an hour, I just gave it a few minutes of shaking and that turned out fine. I was aiming for a high amount of carbonation too, anything I could do to mask the green beer & yeasty flavors.

But all that worked! Day 4 it was not particularly ready, but by day 5 it was drinkable and day 6 it was verrrry drinkable. It's now 13 days old and tastes pretty good! Came out similar to a Goose Island 312 but with more hop character, citrusy and floral just like I wanted. Clarity is very good for such a young beer, no fruity or harsh esters, no phenolic or fusel alcohol tastes.

All in all, I'd give this yeast an A. I will be keeping it in my yeast bank, as this may be a priiiime candidate to use on a DFH 120MIPA clone that I've got planned in the future. Follow this up with the WLP099 and I think I'll have a good fun time trying to make a 15%+ beer!
 
I used San Diego for the first time. Made a Blonde Ale OG 1.046. Fermentation room set at 64* which gives an internal of about 68*F It took less than 6 days for the bubbler on my Conical to all but quit. My first taste from pulling a sample and it was very pleasant, but I'm letting it sit till day 11 then Kegging and plan on serving by about day 17. I took a reading and it was basically done, but I didn't write it down, bad on my part, I think it was 1.010. Will take another when I keg it.

Day 8 went to pull yeast and it was so thick it almost wouldn't come out of the Blichman 14 gallon conical. So apparently it is settling out good.

Pitched said yeast into next batch. Second batch, basically same Blonde Ale with few modifications, OG 1.044 seems to have an even more aggressive fermentation. My pitch was maybe a little over spec. 8fl oz of good thick yeast for 12 gallons. I pitched at 5 PM came back next morning at 7 AM and it was rolling bubbles out of lock very very rapidly.
 
Update on the Centennial blonde ale(OG 1.040)fermented with super yeast:

Starting to mellow out nicely after almost 4 weeks in the bottle. It was carbonated after only about a week in the bottle, but it was still kind of harsh tasting for a couple more weeks. So this stuff does work fast, but it takes a bit longer to condition properly and taste right. The wheat wine I pitched onto the cake is ready to bottle now. The gravity is staying put at about 1.019-1.020, same as it was after only 4 days of fermentation. Pretty impressive that this yeast brought it down to that from an OG of 1.090 so quickly. The only reason it's not bottled yet is I've been dry hopping it. Overall I'd say this is a pretty good yeast. Pretty neutral, not much different than Cal ale that I can tell. It ferments fast, but with the extended conditioning time needed it kind of evens out. The real benefit is in only having to maintain fermentation temps for a few days as opposed to a week or two. I bought another vial and plan on doing the same type of thing again: A light, low gravity ale and then a high gravity monster pitched onto the cake.
 
I used San Diego for the first time. Made a Blonde Ale OG 1.046. Fermentation room set at 64* which gives an internal of about 68*F It took less than 6 days for the bubbler on my Conical to all but quit. My first taste from pulling a sample and it was very pleasant, but I'm letting it sit till day 11 then Kegging and plan on serving by about day 17. I took a reading and it was basically done, but I didn't write it down, bad on my part, I think it was 1.010. Will take another when I keg it.

Kegged this yesterday. FG 1.008 Put in Carb Fridge. Drank a glass today it is good but needs a little more time to mature.

Day 8 went to pull yeast and it was so thick it almost wouldn't come out of the Blichman 14 gallon conical. So apparently it is settling out good.

Pitched said yeast into next batch. Second batch, basically same Blonde Ale with few modifications, OG 1.044 seems to have an even more aggressive fermentation. My pitch was maybe a little over spec. 8fl oz of good thick yeast for 12 gallons. I pitched at 5 PM came back next morning at 7 AM and it was rolling bubbles out of lock very very rapidly.
This batch is 6 days and the bubbler is done. Really won't know how 'fast' this yeast is if like last poster says. It may need more time to mellow, thus not really maturing faster. BUT... If you let yourself run out of homebrew, this will definately put bubbly in the keg FAST!
 
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