Single Tier Basic build

I'm in the process of piecing together a single tier brewstand as I just aquired 3 kegs and a bunch of steel for a frame and I'd like a little advice from guys who have done this. I have no desire to go automated or electric at the moment so this might be the most basic build ever. I am designing it with the option to go that route in the future though.

My current dilemma is the burners. I figured I would run a propane rail that all 3 burners would feed off of, and I'm wondering how many BTU's I should shop for. Please keep in mind I would like to start doing step mashes and 12 gal batches on this new system.

I currently have a turkey fryer/cooler MLT setup and I'm pretty sure the burner I have is http://www.agrisupply.com/cast-iron-burner/p/30295/cn/5400001/

Would this be an acceptable burner for 12 gal batches or should I go with BG-14 Banjo burner. http://www.agrisupply.com/bg-high-pressure-cast-iron-burner-/p/64494/cn/5400001/ Also, what kind of difference would a low pressure burner make? I see alot of people talking about the low pressure vs. high pressure and would like to know the pros/cons.

Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, even if it doesn't have to do with my questions here.

Hi BenS, I'm in the middle of my build and I have talked to a lot of members here and searched countless posts to learn all I can for my build. I am using Honeywell standing pilot valves to control the HLT and MLT burners automatically with a temp contoller, thermocouple and auto gas shut off for safety. The reason I and others, are using low pressure is that the Honeywell valves are only rated for 1/2 psi (.5) and that is it. The valves can not handle high pressure. So if you want to automate your system later with a Love or Auber temp controller and you want to use Honeywell pilot valves your choices are low pressure, or low pressure.

Here is a link to check out:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/understanding-high-pressure-versus-low-pressure-propane-157415/

The Banjo burners will work but make sure you get a good regulator and if possible needle valves, to have a wide range of control on the flame height. The Banjo's come in both high and low pressure and many people have used them. Many also have used the smaller ones you have posted and others use the BG-14's on their HLT and Boil Kettle but the smaller one for the MLT.

If you went with high pressure now and a good adjustable psi range regulator this may be cheaper now since you don't want any automation. High pressure should work excellent for you when used manually with high pressure burners.

You could always use a low pressure orifice on your burners later or drill out the orifice to make them low pressure and keep the same burners, if you decided to build in automation with temp controllers, and went with Honeywell valves in the future with low pressure.

Kladue, and Sawdust Guy are two extremely knowlegeable members that come to mind and maybe they can chime in or you can always send them a pm. I hope this helps a little and good luck with your build.............

John

I am going through the same issue right now. Simplistic single tier but the ability to convert to a more automated setup later. It seems that going HP is a good approach since the burners can be converted to LP later but then again I am unsure as to why I can't just use an LP to begin with. Is there a downfall to running all LP manually?

3 Agri Burners
1 Agri Reg
3 Manual valves
Random pipe and fittings