My insane 25 Gal, 100 Percent Hard Plumbed Tri-Clover, Automated Tippy Build

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Just get it zinc dipped they have a special one that looks just like chrome but is a **** ton cheaper then chrome. We get it done at work all the time ill try and snap a pic Monday of the final product. Oh and this build is awesome too by the way loving all the tri clap work can't wait to see the final product
 
Just get it ceramic coated. It'll be much cheaper than chrome and it seems like everyone is doing it these days. The problem with any of these non-paint coatings is that you can forget about making any modifications to the frame which require welding unless you want to get it re-coated. I would go with paint for that reason.
 
I don't know what your stand would cost, but I think it's usually a few hundred dollars for a set of full length headers for a V8. A good company should be able to give you an estimate if you give them dimensions and photos. Call around!
 
I'm spraying my setup with automotive paint, which isn't exactly cheap either but looks great. However, with your burners something like ceramic would be ideal as it can handle the heat.
 
Ceramic coating will cost probably 300+,maybe just get some vht header paint?
 
If you think you'll never modify it, I would go with ceramic coating. It will look awesome and should hold up near your burners. Ask them what kind of heat it can withstand. If you think you might weld on it in the future, definitely go with paint. I'm not sure how header paint will hold up near your burners, but I am sure that it absolutely does not hold up on headers!
 
kevink said:
If you think you'll never modify it, I would go with ceramic coating. It will look awesome and should hold up near your burners. Ask them what kind of heat it can withstand. If you think you might weld on it in the future, definitely go with paint. I'm not sure how header paint will hold up near your burners, but I am sure that it absolutely does not hold up on headers!
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That's definitely good advice, I should be ok and not have to weld in the stand ever again, when I'm done.
 
kevink said:
I don't know what your stand would cost, but I think it's usually a few hundred dollars for a set of full length headers for a V8. A good company should be able to give you an estimate if you give them dimensions and photos. Call around!
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Don't ceramic coat it unless you wish to polish it out by hand..............

The automotive headers are polished in a vibratory polisher with ceramic media.

Your brew rig won't fit or rotate in the vibratory..............:eek:
 
Thank you guys for your comments so far. I want to get this thing done, I can't wait to get home from Cabo to put some work in! I'm going to soak it in for the last day

image-139798257.jpg
 
I haven't actually checked how much it has been costing me, If i took a wild guess, I would say approaching 4k
 
Nice build! I have no doubt that you are at least pushing 600 lbs....based on other rig builds and some heavy machinery that I own. Consider static versus dynamic weight ratings when you deal with casters....if you move something under load it will be subjected to higher stresses versus just sitting there. But you should be fine...if you're really worried about it just weld some nuts into the bottom of the frame and make levelling feet...with a 1/2" threaded rod, you should be in good shape.

P.s....did you see that they make the chillzilla/convolutus in stainless?:cool:
 
ScubaSteve said:
Nice build! I have no doubt that you are at least pushing 600 lbs....based on other rig builds and some heavy machinery that I own. Consider static versus dynamic weight ratings when you deal with casters....if you move something under load it will be subjected to higher stresses versus just sitting there. But you should be fine...if you're really worried about it just weld some nuts into the bottom of the frame and make levelling feet...with a 1/2" threaded rod, you should be in good shape.

P.s....did you see that they make the chillzilla/convolutus in stainless?:cool:
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Where did you see said stainless chillers?
 
You can get the Stainless CFC from Williamsbrewing.com. They are currently out if stock tho.
 
peggjam said:
I like it. Now, when you gonna start selling them?
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This has been something I have been thinking about getting into for sure. But if I do it I'm going to have to hire a welder. I just don't have the time to be efficient.
 
I liked the stainless chiller, but I always feel like every brewery needs some copper. Supposedly it's good for the yeast. (Don't quote me, it's what I have read on multiple occasions)

SS_Brewing_Co said:
So did you weld ferrules on the "T"s or did you Drill out TC caps and fuse the inside?
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Most of my hard plumbing is TC encaps fusion welded. It's sanitary, and a lot easier to do then actually welding pipe.
 
I think it's the lighting, they have the right color in person. Maybe could be a tad lighter. I'm running , gas lens, 2% therorated tungsten electrode. I have also been cleaning them up with a scotch bright wheel.
 
kickflip_mj said:
I think it's the lighting, they have the right color in person. Maybe could be a tad lighter. I'm running , gas lens, 2% therorated tungsten electrode. I have also been cleaning them up with a scotch bright wheel.
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Sounds good. One suggestion would be, when you stop the arc do not move for several seconds and let your gas run tell the weld cools a bit. It will make for less oxidation and fewer problems down the road.

I might be a bit too critical. I used to be an aeronautical tig welder and they busted our balls hard during initial certification and re-certifications were not much fun either.

Stick with the thoriated tungsten it is much better than ceriated. Just try not to ingest the dust when you sharpen thoriated, it is slightly radioactive.
 
kerklein2 said:
Williams Brewing needs to offer that thing with TC fittings on it.
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Maybe they think it's unnecessary because the chiller isn't sanitary as is and welding the fittings on properly is a lot of work. I just welded tri clamp end caps on one of those for a HBT member and noticed that the existing welds (not mine) protruded into the wort tube and were a little funky (bumpy and sugared). It looks like they're not back purging the inside of the wort tube or they're using using too much heat during welding (which I can tell from looking at the outside of the chiller). These chillers should be sanitized with heat as opposed to chemicals for that reason.

Sanitary or not, tri clamp fittings are nice, especially if all of your other fittings are tri clamp.
 
kevink said:
Maybe they think it's unnecessary because the chiller isn't sanitary as is and welding the fittings on properly is a lot of work. I just welded tri clamp end caps on one of those for a HBT member and noticed that the existing welds (not mine) protruded into the wort tube and were a little funky (bumpy and sugared). It looks like they're not back purging the inside of the wort tube or they're using using too much heat during welding (which I can tell from looking at the outside of the chiller). These chillers should be sanitized with heat as opposed to chemicals for that reason.

Sanitary or not, tri clamp fittings are nice, especially if all of your other fittings are tri clamp.
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Well I bet a lot of the people buying them are running TCs. And the non-standard diameter on it means it's difficult to hook anything up to other than a hose. It just doesn't seem like a complete product yet.
 
Bookworm said:
Sounds good. One suggestion would be, when you stop the arc do not move for several seconds and let your gas run tell the weld cools a bit. It will make for less oxidation and fewer problems down the road.

I might be a bit too critical. I used to be an aeronautical tig welder and they busted our balls hard during initial certification and re-certifications were not much fun either.

Stick with the thoriated tungsten it is much better than ceriated. Just try not to ingest the dust when you sharpen thoriated, it is slightly radioactive.
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Thank you for the tip, I will try that asap. That is probably why I have slightly darker spots on my welds! I am an amateur welder, I didn't expect this rig to be all sanitary (fermenter quality) because of some of my welds. I just wanted it close. With that being said, If I ever go into producing these I will hire a full time welder.
 
kerklein2 said:
Well I bet a lot of the people buying them are running TCs. And the non-standard diameter on it means it's difficult to hook anything up to other than a hose. It just doesn't seem like a complete product yet.
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Everything about that chiller seemed off to me. Besides i wanted the convoluted copper chiller and not just a stainless tube.
 
kevink said:
Maybe they think it's unnecessary because the chiller isn't sanitary as is and welding the fittings on properly is a lot of work. I just welded tri clamp end caps on one of those for a HBT member and noticed that the existing welds (not mine) protruded into the wort tube and were a little funky (bumpy and sugared). It looks like they're not back purging the inside of the wort tube or they're using using too much heat during welding (which I can tell from looking at the outside of the chiller). These chillers should be sanitized with heat as opposed to chemicals for that reason.

Sanitary or not, tri clamp fittings are nice, especially if all of your other fittings are tri clamp.
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I would just like to say kevink is THE MAN when it comes to welding. :mug:

If he's local to you or you don't mind the shipping $, definitely give him a go.
 
Kevink,

How much do you charge per weld? I have been thinking about producing some parts
 
uberg33k said:
How did you ruin the water filter?
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It was an inline 3 stage Carthage filter- I was soldering way down the line and the residual heat started melting the threads... Rookie move. Now I have a two stage filter. Lol
 

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