American Pale Ale Da Yooper's House Pale Ale

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daksin said:
It never does:D

Anyway, you're absolutely right- I could have gone without the extra pound. Hit ~80% efficiency and so my OG was high- around 1.066. I'm going to add a half gallon of water when I get home from work- still in the lag right now so I think it should be fine. Excited to taste this beer.

It's definitely one of the best beers I've made, and mine even finished a bit high.

I've never brewed a recipe more than once; this one may be the first.
 
It's definitely one of the best beers I've made, and mine even finished a bit high.

I've never brewed a recipe more than once; this one may be the first.

Here, Here. Just made another 10 gallons. Guess we will have to start a "How many gallons of Yooper Pale have been made"....lol
 
I just kegged a batch myself- and haven't tried it yet except at kegging. It was really, really good. I guess I forgot how much I loved this beer until we (lschiavo and myself) made it again.
 
Yooper said:
I just kegged a batch myself- and haven't tried it yet except at kegging. It was really, really good. I guess I forgot how much I loved this beer until we (lschiavo and myself) made it again.

Hey yooper, how do you think this recipe would do with fullers yeast?
 
Hey yooper, how do you think this recipe would do with fullers yeast?

I don't really know, as I've never done it with a real "Englishy" strain (just S04 at a low temperature) but it would probably be a bit estery with that strain. It probably wouldn't really be to my taste, but if you like the English strains other beers then you would probably like it.
 
Yooper said:
I don't really know, as I've never done it with a real "Englishy" strain (just S04 at a low temperature) but it would probably be a bit estery with that strain. It probably wouldn't really be to my taste, but if you like the English strains other beers then you would probably like it.

How did it turn out with so4? Estery?
 
Munich 10L seems to be more common for most people. I don't keep Munich 20L in my grain closet, and I would prefer not to start buying it. If you used Munich 10L in this recipe instead, would you change anything at all? Perhaps add a touch more Caramel 60? I was thinking 12oz instead of 8. Would that have the desired effect, or would that add too much flavor/sweetness? Thanks Yoop for another great contribution.
 
How did it turn out with so4? Estery?

No, not at all. But I fermented it at like 62 degrees, so it was "clean" and clear and without ester characters.

Munich 10L seems to be more common for most people. I don't keep Munich 20L in my grain closet, and I would prefer not to start buying it. If you used Munich 10L in this recipe instead, would you change anything at all? Perhaps add a touch more Caramel 60? I was thinking 12oz instead of 8. Would that have the desired effect, or would that add too much flavor/sweetness? Thanks Yoop for another great contribution.

You can use the 10L, without subbing anything else. It's a slightly different flavor and color, but the flavor isn't much different in small amounts!
 
alright, so I couldn't sleep last night and woke up around 3 am and could not fall back asleep. So i started reading the site and thinking about my lack of efficiency lately. I decided to start tinkering with toys and realized while drunk the night before I received a mason jar with 1056 an I needed to use it. I adjusted my grain mill for a tighter crush and then kegged a octobery marzen styled ale with a late chamomile addition. all before 6 am lol. Then hit the site again looking to a recipe to use the 1056. My buddy is a big lover of this and I barely use it. I prefer denny's or stepping outside the box for complexity...anyway after checking stock on ingredients this is the recipe i decided on. Changed grainbill around for I didnt have munich on hand and had a freshy of cents on hand so here is what i did....thanks yooper

3 MO
3 Pale 2 row
3 vienna
2 crystal40

.50 whole leaf cents at 60min
rest the same

pitched 1056 and blew off in middle of night....another great reason to do beer stuff early
 
I've got grains crushed and ready to brew tomorrow. Got most of the same. No 60 so I've gone with a combo of 120 and 40 because it's what I had and the 60 min addition is 29 ibu's of Warrior. This is my first time brewing with Maris Otter so I'm pretty excited.
 
Brewing a version of this up tomorrow. Instead of all Cascades, I am going to use Nugget for the bittering and will use an equal amount (by weight) of Cascade and Centennial for the late addition and dry hops. I'll let you all know how it turns out.
 
Are you targeting the same IBUs? I have some nugget hops that need to be used up. Curious to hear how this turns out.

Yep. For the flavoring and aroma, I tried to keep around the same weights as the original recipe. I also just realized that I missed the 30 minute hops on my recipe, going to have to fix that.
 
So here is my Hops schedule for tomorrow (all are leaf):

.50oz Nugget (14.50%) @ 60
.40oz Cascade (8.10%) @ 30
.40oz Cascade (8.10%) @ 10
.40oz Centennial (10.50%) @ 10
.20oz Cascade (8.10%) @ 5
.20oz Centennial (10.50%) @ 5
.25oz Cascade @ 0
.25oz Centennial @ 0

Dry Hops
.50oz Cascade for 7 days
.50oz Centennial for 7 days

Total IBU: 44.8

My Centennials are Cascades are more potent than average, so that is why the numbers look a little weird. The Nuggets are also much more powerful than the Cascades, so the bittering hops are greatly reduced.
 
Hey just brewed this a couple weeks ago! Been on the cascades for dry hop for 4 days and the samples smell and taste great! It's going to be pretty dry though, which I like but went from a. 1.053 to a 1.008. I can't wait to try it out but am surprised at the attenuation of the 05 yeast. I would expect that from a knotty. Anyway I hope to try it here in a week or so when it's all carbed up! Great recipe Yoop!
 
Did this today... added some extra malt for our brewhouse eff. First time we used hop bags, dont know why we never used these before......Thanx Yoop for the recipe... Came out around 1.056, so really close...
 
Ok,as Yooper is a legend around here and I love Cascades, I figured I have to try this. I did a PM. Here is the recipe:
Vienna Malt - 3lbs
Munich Malt - 2lbs
Crystal 20 - 0.5 lbs
Crystal 60 - 0.5 lbs
DME Light - 3 lbs
Cascade 1oz - 60
Cascade 1oz - 30
Cascade 1oz - 10
Cascade 1oz - Dryhop
Wyeast 1056

I estimated an OG of 1.058 and I missed it badly at 1.047. This was my first PM and I think my efficiency was way off. I wish i had known, I could have added some more DME.

Anyway, I was going to live with it and then I was reading Sam Caglione's book, Extreme Brewing and he adds some light brown sugar during fermentation on one of his pale ale recipes, so I thought what the heck and added a half pound of light brown sugar boiled in two cups of water 4 days into the fermentation. This raises my OG to 1.052.

I checked it today after 2 weeks in primary and it attenuated down to 1.008. The sample tasted fantastic. I went ahead and put in the dryhops and I will bottle in a week or two. I will let you know how it comes out. Thanks for what I think is going to be a fantastic recipe!
 
I brewed up my 3rd batch of this about a month ago. The other 2 I didn't dry hop because I was buying all the ingredients on a per batch basis and didn't want to buy the extras hops. A lb of cascade pellets solved that problem and i threw about 1.25 oz in my primary about a week ago thinking I would bottle it this weekend. Something came up and I won't be able to bottle it for at least 2 weeks.

Think it will make much difference?

I am a new brewer with 13 batches under my belt and was looking forward to tasting the difference between a dry hopped version and the other versions I brewed.
 
Just brewed this, ended up with just over 5 gallons at 1.054. Got better effieciency than I expected. I can't wait to start drinking this.
 
smokewater said:
I brewed up my 3rd batch of this about a month ago. The other 2 I didn't dry hop because I was buying all the ingredients on a per batch basis and didn't want to buy the extras hops. A lb of cascade pellets solved that problem and i threw about 1.25 oz in my primary about a week ago thinking I would bottle it this weekend. Something came up and I won't be able to bottle it for at least 2 weeks.

Think it will make much difference?

I am a new brewer with 13 batches under my belt and was looking forward to tasting the difference between a dry hopped version and the other versions I brewed.

Yes, an extra week on the dry hips will make a difference.
Unless you want grassy beer, I wouldn't leave the dry hops in for all that time.
 
I got tons of hot/cold break (I assume that's what it was) from this. I racked from my kettle into the carboy through a strainer but tons of the fluffy looking trub stuff still made it in, it is now a 2-3" layer on the bottom of the carboy! Is this going to get compacted over time? I'm planning on leaving it in primary for 3 weeks and then kegging.
 
I got tons of hot/cold break (I assume that's what it was) from this. I racked from my kettle into the carboy through a strainer but tons of the fluffy looking trub stuff still made it in, it is now a 2-3" layer on the bottom of the carboy! Is this going to get compacted over time? I'm planning on leaving it in primary for 3 weeks and then kegging.

Oh, yes, it will compact down a lot with the yeast and form trub. No worries!
 
Wonderful, that's what I wanted to hear! Thanks

Also, I'm keeping it in the fermenter for 3 weeks, so could I start dry hopping after 2 weeks and then keg from there? Or would dry hopping in the keg be better?
 
Rubes said:
Wonderful, that's what I wanted to hear! Thanks

Also, I'm keeping it in the fermenter for 3 weeks, so could I start dry hopping after 2 weeks and then keg from there? Or would dry hopping in the keg be better?

Do it in the keg. Way easier.
 
Yes, an extra week on the dry hips will make a difference.
Unless you want grassy beer, I wouldn't leave the dry hops in for all that time.

Not much I can do about it. The beer is in NC and I am in Montana. Hopefully it won't be too bad. Only about an oz of pellets in 5.5 gallons. I also get a bunch of trub settling out so maybe some of the hops will settle in there reducing the effect.
 
smokewater said:
Not much I can do about it. The beer is in NC and I am in Montana. Hopefully it won't be too bad. Only about an oz of pellets in 5.5 gallons. I also get a bunch of trub settling out so maybe some of the hops will settle in there reducing the effect.

Just pull em out ASAP once you are home. Oh, and enjoy Montana!
 
I brewed a 5 gal batch of this back on Jan 7th with some washed 1450. I accidentally let the fermentation temp get down to 56, which caused the batch to get stuck at 1.024. Tried everything to get it going again but nothing worked. Ended up pitching it on a fresh cake of 1272 and it took off within a couple of hours. The FG ended up being 1.012. I also dry hopped with an ounce of Amarillo that I had lying around. It has been on the keg for a little less than two weeks and it is incredible. Probably the best APA that I have brewed to date. Thanks Yoops.
 
I brewed a 5 gal batch of this back on Jan 7th with some washed 1450. I accidentally let the fermentation temp get down to 56, which caused the batch to get stuck at 1.024. Tried everything to get it going again but nothing worked. Ended up pitching it on a fresh cake of 1272 and it took off within a couple of hours. The FG ended up being 1.012. I also dry hopped with an ounce of Amarillo that I had lying around. It has been on the keg for a little less than two weeks and it is incredible. Probably the best APA that I have brewed to date. Thanks Yoops.

I also reduced the IBUs to around 37. I like my pales ales to be a little less bitter.
 
Hey Hey Yooper. Brewing this tomorrow! Just wanted to confirm, since this is my first shot at dryhopping, that after 2 weeks of primary fermentation, I add the hops for the last week, right?

I'm not doing a secondary so my plan was to primary for 2 weeks, then dryhop the final week and start taking my FG readings. Does this work?
 
Hey Hey Yooper. Brewing this tomorrow! Just wanted to confirm, since this is my first shot at dryhopping, that after 2 weeks of primary fermentation, I add the hops for the last week, right?

I'm not doing a secondary so my plan was to primary for 2 weeks, then dryhop the final week and start taking my FG readings. Does this work?

Well, sort of. Make sure you're at FG before dryhopping, then add the dryhops about a week before packaging.
 
Well, sort of. Make sure you're at FG before dryhopping, then add the dryhops about a week before packaging.

Ok, so...

-Primary for 2 weeks.
-Check FG...If the same 3 days in a row, dryhop for another week.
-Then bottle.

Yes?
 
Just pulled the first pint from the keg for this brew (w/ my subs of Nugget for bittering and Centennial and Cascade for taste and aroma) and I have to say it is AWESOME. It has a nice citrusy, grapefruit aroma and taste. The malt bill balances out the bitterness that the Nuggets provide. Overall I really like this beer, and will definitely keep brewing it on a regular basis.
 
I brewed this up a few weeks ago and it's ready for the keg now. This is the first beer I've brewed that has a really noticeable hop aroma - it smells incredible! So good that I'm skipping the dry hops. Thanks for the great recipe.
 
So should the ABV be about 6% on this? That's what the online ABV calculators are telling me. My OG was 1.054 and after 2 weeks it's now at 1.020. It was about 60 degrees so I've put it in a warmer room. It tastes awesome right now, I'm hoping it ferments down some more though.
 
So should the ABV be about 6% on this? That's what the online ABV calculators are telling me. My OG was 1.054 and after 2 weeks it's now at 1.020. It was about 60 degrees so I've put it in a warmer room. It tastes awesome right now, I'm hoping it ferments down some more though.

Yes, 6% or so seems about right for my OG of 1.058 and FG of 1.010.
 
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