POLS $10 HLT Sight Gauge!

Epiphany...

I already have a hole and a stopper thermometer going through the wall of my HLT. It isnt needed since I have my A419 controller on that vessel now. SO, I am going to get some polycarbonate tubing and create an "L" that will go through a standard drilled stopper, seal tightly and tada, a perfectly and simple sealing HLT sight gauge! My thought is heating it gently to the point where I can bend it, find a small(er) radius form and bend the 90 deg. angle.

McMaster-Carr

Sounds good to me. Eyebolt on top to stabilize it?

Bobby_M said:

Sounds good to me. Eyebolt on top to stabilize it?

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Sure sure... I think it will be a great addition since I have the stopper and hole already there. It will also be SWEET for measuring out my step mashing quantities when I step mash and pump over from the HLT to the MLT! :rockin:

could you use a plastic racking cane for this? It's already got the bend and would seal fairly tight in the typical stopper.

I dunno if it can handle the heat.... actually from past experience I dont think it will

How about some velcro at the top to secure it instead of an eye bolt?

That is so '80s!

Would you like to try some teflon tubing, have some in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" OD that can be heated and bent for a sight glass. The tubing is rated to 400+ degrees but is not as transparent as polycarbonate, there is an example piece on the mixer for the phase2 system.

You using the silicone stoppers from McMaster? Just curious since I am going to work on my new HLT soon...

If racking canes are 1/16" wall acrylic, I'm pretty sure the high temp limit is 160F. If you go to polycarb, depending on who you talk to it is rated to at LEAST 200F though I've seen some rated as high as 250F. It's not that they'll burst into flames or disintegrate at those temps but they'll get soft and perhaps hazy.

Pol-
I know you have an electric rig but do you think that plastic would handle direct fired vessels? mcmaster says its rated to +200F, whatever that means.

Mcmaster also has a 250F rated version in 3/8" OD. A lot of people have been using sight glass kits that I put together based on 3/8" and 1/2" OD and I only heard of one breaking (though the cause is still a mystery). So far no melty heat related problems. If you've got a stand where the flames lick up the side to the point where your ball valve handle's rubber is burned off, it might be an issue.

Hey Pol,

I was wondering if you ever got this done? How it worked, Pics?

Thanks

Not done yet... it will be... when it is I will post it. Should be easy, I already have the hole in the cooler for the digital thermomter that I dont need anymore. I already have the stopper... I just need the tube.

Along with my new "no chill" method and fermentor, I am making some pretty neat strides in brewing technology and techniques.

The Pol said:

Not done yet... it will be... when it is I will post it. Should be easy, I already have the hole in the cooler for the digital thermomter that I dont need anymore. I already have the stopper... I just need the tube.

Along with my new "no chill" method and fermentor, I am making some pretty neat strides in brewing technology and techniques.

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Thanks, I'll be waiting and watching.. I haven't heard or read about the "no Chill" method and fermentor.. Did I miss it?

planenut said:

Thanks, I'll be waiting and watching.. I haven't heard or read about the "no Chill" method and fermentor.. Did I miss it?

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Well it is buried in another thread. It is a method that the Aussies use. No chill, natural cooling, saves time and water. There is minimal investment to try it out, so I am doing it... I will be using it with a recipe that I have brewed 5x or more, so that I can tell what the major differences are, if any, to the brew.

Basically you drain the HOT wort into an HDPE container, void of headspace, let it cool... then pitch whenever you want to. In my case, it will be 24 hours later. I will be using foam control drops to keep the krausen down and keep the cooled wort in the same 5 gallon container that I tossed the brew in to cool.

Drastic? Kinda... worth trying? Definately.

Aussies use the NO CHILL menthod almost exclusively and brew up some award winning beers with it. So... it can't be all bad. Like I said, this will be an experiment!

hmmm, I want to hear how it goes...

planenut said:

hmmm, I want to hear how it goes...

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You will, IF I survive.

Will you be using a better bottle, ale pale or something else?

Can't wait to see pictures of a finished project, sounds neat.

No, I will be using something else, from USPlastics I presume... just wait, be patient... still working out the details.

LOL, fine then... I will wait. Still want to see it though.

The sight glass thing is pretty easy, not done though.

The NO CHILL carboy/fermentor is another story. Still working out a lot of details for cleaning/sanitizing/draining...

I have only been working on the idea for a few days since I really got into the Aussie BYO article and then the Aussie boards.

Honestly, I don't like the "no chill" idea, but I read everything and am always interested in experiments and the write-ups that come with them. Can't wait to read more.

It is okay, people dont generally like ME... so this method fits me well

LOL, well I like ya just fine . I'll check back and read later on.

Cool cool, there will be a thread on it, I garanteeee ya.

Buying some 1/2" dia. polycarbonate tubing from Mc Master tonight, I got some 3/8" free from a member here, but it is too small to seal in the hole in a drilled stopper.

I will be able to use the sight gauges, new silcone tubing and no chill fermentor in about a week! I will have a full thread containing the updates on the system and the brew session, all in one.

Hey Pol. I just used a regular stopper and a drill bit. You can make it whatever size you need then

You were able to do that with a gum stopper???

I've drilled a few stoppers, it's not perfect, but works.

Yes, a #2. I drill the hole a size smaller, and a little keg lube to get through. I did this with my previous temp sensor and it held 10 gal for 48 hours without a drop leaked.

Wow, I am surprised... last time I attempted to drill a hole in one the rubber just twisted and mangled, it was an ugly scene. No bother... I hav 1/2" polycarb coming now. SUX I wanted to use the FREE stuff you sent me.

Tried baking the polycarb to bend it... ran into a problem. The entire length becomes soft and gets distorted when I take it out of the oven. SO, I found another way.

DEEP FRYER! Set it at 375F... insert only the end of the tube that you wish to bend, it will get pliable like a noodle. Take it out of the oil, bend the end at a 90 degree angle on a .5" radius or so. Keeps the length of the tubing cool and straight, only heating and bending the end where you want to bend it. Worked like a charm!

Did you try heating it with a propane torch from a few inches away? I know the guys that bend up glass tubing for neon signs do something similar with a mapp torch. They also plug one end a blow into the other end to bulge out any kinked spots in the bend while it's still pliable.

See, then Id have to buy a torch... I already have the deep fryer

Everyone needs a torch AND a deep fryer, but I don't have a fryer so I guess we're even.

I dont deal much in propane anymore... if I had a torch Id burn something down, probably my residence. HA

Mmmm. Deep Fried Plastic. If you get a run to Huntsville, I'll bet you can sell that idea.

I tell ya, worked like a charm! When I heated the entire tube, it got all limp and crooked. This way I can heat just the end I want to bend.... and hot oil does it fast.

I am sure there is a market for deep fried plastic!

I bought some .25" ID, .50" OD tubing, 8' of it...

One will be on the HLT, one on the MLT... bought a label maker to make labels for the water qtys. I am excited to get this improvement complete along with my silicone hoses.