dustinolsen84
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2014
- Messages
- 51
- Reaction score
- 1
Weird question. Can I hook up the gas at 30 psi and pull it off so I can carb a different keg? I have 1 connection and 2 kegs to carb. They have separate taps.
Force carb question
- Thread starter dustinolsen84
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Bensiff
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2008
- Messages
- 4,835
- Reaction score
- 411
Yes...but, even at 30 psi it takes a while to get a keg to fully carb, so if you pressurize it to 30psi and then move the line over to another keg, in a few minutes that will have absorbed and you will still have flat beer. Then the other thought, once you get it towards being pressurized and you forget you had it at 30 psi as you are moving lines around and hook it up at 10psi for serving you could end up with beer in your regulator if you don't have a one way valve.
Natdavis777
Well-Known Member
@ 30 psi and cold beer, it will take at least 24 hours to carb....
I force carb most of my beers @ 30psi, but that is only after they have set in the keg in kegerator for a day or so. Then I let it sit on 30psi for 24 hours, and check how the beer pours. If it needs to set longer, so be it, but usually 24 hours will suffice. My average serving pressure is 10-12 psi so it letting the keg sit @ that after the inital 24hr usually results in well carbed beer
I force carb most of my beers @ 30psi, but that is only after they have set in the keg in kegerator for a day or so. Then I let it sit on 30psi for 24 hours, and check how the beer pours. If it needs to set longer, so be it, but usually 24 hours will suffice. My average serving pressure is 10-12 psi so it letting the keg sit @ that after the inital 24hr usually results in well carbed beer
if you have a bleed valve on your regulator just hook the first keg up at 30, unhook it and bleed the line and change the pressure down to 12 and hook the other up, repeat the process every hour or 2 for a couple of days
Thanks for the info on what you do Natdavis777!! I forced carb'ed mine to 30psi last night, rolled it for 4-5 mins, purged and repeated 4-5 times (right after I filled it). Then I set it to 12psi & it has been sitting all day in the kegerator. I know I'm rushing this but I am hoping to have it ready for Sunday.
Do you think I should put it back to 30psi and let it sit longer in the keg? Also I noticed earlier today the psi was up to 14psi in the morning, then later down to 9 or 10 psi. So I keep adjusting it to 12 psi where I normally serve it at. Is this fluctuation common? If not is that an indication of a leak or other problem? Thanks in advance everyone!!
Natdavis777
Well-Known Member
I'd just bump it back to 30 and check it every few hours until it's where you want it (assuming you are close).
I'm not a big fan of the shaking method, as it's hard to repeat the same results on multiple kegs. If I've ever been in a rush to get a beer on tap, 30psi @ 24 hrs has always worked for me.
I'm not a big fan of the shaking method, as it's hard to repeat the same results on multiple kegs. If I've ever been in a rush to get a beer on tap, 30psi @ 24 hrs has always worked for me.
Thanks Natdavis777!! I just bumped it back up to 30psi. I will hook up the tap line later today & check it out!!
I usually keep the kegerator temp around 38 degrees. So I hope with what I did the first night before chilling it and letting it sit at 12psi for 24 hour and now back to 30psi it will do the trick. Next time I will do the "set & wait" method instead of rushing. Thanks again!!! [emoji106]
I usually keep the kegerator temp around 38 degrees. So I hope with what I did the first night before chilling it and letting it sit at 12psi for 24 hour and now back to 30psi it will do the trick. Next time I will do the "set & wait" method instead of rushing. Thanks again!!! [emoji106]
Just tested a glass of my brew! Tastes great but definitely not fully carbonated yet!! I'll keep it at 30psi for the rest of the day & maybe try another glass late tonight.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1437856030.903184.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1437856030.903184.jpg
If I am in a hurry I get the beer chilled, then hook up the gas at 30 psi, lay the keg across my lap and just gently rock it back-and-forth for five minutes. I then bleed all the excess gas,set it in the keg at serving pressure, wait a couple hours for it to settle back down and clear up. then start pulling pints. That usually works pretty well
Thanks for the tip! I think I will do that tonight too since its been chilling for 24 hours and see how it goes. Plus it's been sitting at 30psi for a few hours now too.
Thanks everyone for your helpful tips and suggestions!
I did the 30psi rolled the keg harder this time and heard the CO2 being absorbed. Purged it 4-5 times and let it sit overnight. So I poured a half a pint this morning and it was partially carbonated but not fully carbonated, but had a nice head. I left it at 30psi and waited till now. I turned it down to 12psi then 10psi (same results) and now all I'm getting is a pint glass of foam!!! Does anyone know what is going on? I have now left it at 9-10psi after purging the keg and I figure it shouldn't do any harm. Any suggestions would be appreciated!!! Thank you all!!
There are several causes for foamy pours:
- Over Carbonation Shaking or rolling a keg at 30 psi is a fast way to carbonate a keg. It's also the method most likely to overcarbonate a keg. That's why a lot of people recommend not carbing that way. If you have over carbonated, you need to take the gas off of the keg and then vent it every hour or two until the carb level is down where you want it to be. Then put gas back on the keg at serving pressure.
- Warm taps and/or beer lines If the taps or lines are more than a few degrees warmer than the beer, the CO2 will come out of solution while flowing thru the lines/tap. Keep your lines & taps cold.
- Beer lines too short If the beer lines are too short, the beer comes out of the tap at too high a pressure, and the sudden pressure drop causes the beer to foam. For reliable pours you want about 1 ft of 3/16" ID tubing for each psi of CO2 pressure. Here is the only calculator you should use for determining beer line length. If you use shorter lines for any reason, don't come back here asking why you are getting foamy pours.
So, a couple of questions for you:
- Is your beer line & tap cold?
- What is the ID of your beer line, and how long is it?
Brew on
Hi Doug! Yes the keg and line is cold!! About 38 degrees, maybe 40 degrees at the hugest.
The line I am using is this setup from Northern Brewer.
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/foam-free-tubing-kit-bl-ball-lock-version
Please let me know if you or anyone else needs more info. I'm going to purge and try again. Thanks!
The line I am using is this setup from Northern Brewer.
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/foam-free-tubing-kit-bl-ball-lock-version
Please let me know if you or anyone else needs more info. I'm going to purge and try again. Thanks!
If you are getting all foam sounds like you over carbed. Getting it back out is harder then getting it in. Try dropping the pressure down to like 5psi for serving to see it that helps.
As you were getting closer to your target carbonation level, you should of connected it to the serving pressure when you did the last rolling of the keg.
You do not need to purge 4 or 5 times, just need to relieve pressure and reconnect to the lower pressure.
If I want to speed up a carbonation and feel like I am getting closer to the serving pressure I will put it on 30psi for a while(couple hours) then drain off the pressure and put the serving pressure on the keg just long enough to pressurize the keg. I let the keg sit for an hour or so with no gas connected then reconnect the serving pressure back up. If it takes more gas, I will reconnect the 30psi and let sit for a couple hours before bleeding pressure and rechecking with the serving pressure. Once it takes little or no gas when the serving pressure is reconnected I know it is pretty close.
As you were getting closer to your target carbonation level, you should of connected it to the serving pressure when you did the last rolling of the keg.
You do not need to purge 4 or 5 times, just need to relieve pressure and reconnect to the lower pressure.
If I want to speed up a carbonation and feel like I am getting closer to the serving pressure I will put it on 30psi for a while(couple hours) then drain off the pressure and put the serving pressure on the keg just long enough to pressurize the keg. I let the keg sit for an hour or so with no gas connected then reconnect the serving pressure back up. If it takes more gas, I will reconnect the 30psi and let sit for a couple hours before bleeding pressure and rechecking with the serving pressure. Once it takes little or no gas when the serving pressure is reconnected I know it is pretty close.
The 5 ft of tubing may be part of the problem. Unless it is high flow resistance tubing, you won't get "a flow resistance of 10 psi" with that length. Many suppliers of kegging equipment get tubing length wrong. But it's one of the reason there are so many threads on HBT asking about foamy pours. Check the link that I posted. It explains the science behind the tubing length.
Another question: Are you opening the tap fully? If you only press the lever part way, that can actually give you more foam than pressing it all the way. If you press all the way, how long does it take to pour a pint? Should take about 10 seconds. If it is less, then your lines are too short.
Brew on
If you are significantly over carbed, then you do need to vent multiple times. Each venting only brings the headspace pressure down to 0 psi (gauge pressure.) The beer still has excess dissolved CO2 in it, and that dissolved CO2 does not come out of the beer instantly when the pressure is relieved (if it did all beer would be flat as soon as it was poured or the bottle opened.) Each venting only eliminates a fraction of the excess CO2. You need to wait some time for more CO2 to come out of solution, and then vent again. The more often you vent, the faster the de-carbonization will occur. You need to check the carbonization level by pouring and tasting during the process, in order to know when you have de-carbed enough.
There is a faster way to de-carb, but it uses more CO2. Instructions are here.
Brew on
I disagree. It's a bit more tedious, but it's not harder.
One of the members here, jakecpunut, has a video on YouTube where he addressed this issue.
The hardest part was trying to disconnect the gas disconnect from the beer out post. They are hard to remove. If you have MFL fitting on your gas/beer lines, you could always swap disconnects and make it easier. I have a spare line from my dual body regulator I use to burst carb my kegs. I just switch disconnects on that line if I need to de-gas an over carbed keg.
Last edited by a moderator:
My comment about not needing to purge 4 or 5 time is in regard to getting the keg carbonated. You only need to bleed off pressure once then connect the keg to serving pressure.
Are you saying that when you carb at excess pressure, but don't over carb, then you just need to vent, and connect at serving pressure? If so, I agree with you.
The discussion was about how to deal with an over carbed keg, and it wasn't clear in the way you worded your response, that you had switched to talking about a non-over carbed keg.
Brew on
Are you saying that when you carb at excess pressure, but don't over carb, then you just need to vent, and connect at serving pressure? If so, I agree with you.
The discussion was about how to deal with an over carbed keg, and it wasn't clear in the way you worded your response, that you had switched to talking about a non-over carbed keg.
Brew on
Yes, I switched back to the original topic of the thread. I read it a couple of time on the way through the thread and thought I would comment in case the OP ever tries force carbing at higher pressure again.
I have never seen or used the technique of sending CO2 back through the beer out post, which does seem like a quicker and easier technique then allowing the CO to leave naturally. I did accidentally cross the gas and beer out once and I recall it was not so easy to remove one of the disconnects. Could be just a personal problem.
Yeah the gas QD tends to get stuck on the beer out post. If you use MFL QD's then it's not a big deal to swap QD's on the gas line so you don't have a problem with this. Just remember to switch them back when done.
Brew on
Natdavis777
Well-Known Member
I've used the method of hooking up gas to the "out" post and hitting it with some bursts of Co2. Worked really well, and immediately resolved the issue.
With that said, I try not to overcarb the keg in the first place so I don't have to resort to those measures. Hence why I keep the carbine process with as few variables as possible so I can replicate a certain carb level on the given beer repeatedly
With that said, I try not to overcarb the keg in the first place so I don't have to resort to those measures. Hence why I keep the carbine process with as few variables as possible so I can replicate a certain carb level on the given beer repeatedly
Thanks everyone for your help!! I was in a rush trying to get the beer ready for family visiting so I only had two days. Next time I will hook it up at the serving pressure and let it sit for two weeks to carbonate.
Hast makes waste!!!! ;-)
Hast makes waste!!!! ;-)
Natdavis777
Well-Known Member
You can still do 24hrs @ 30psi on cold wort and get the same results in a day rather than 2 weeks. The key is to keep everything constant (cold beer, same psi setting, same amount of hours). IF you feel this is still not to your desired carb level, extend it an additional 2-4 hours and re-try. If this is where you like it, then for future kegs, all you need to do is leave it on the gas for 26-28 hours instead.
Like mentioned already, rolling the keg can carb up a beer quick, but there are too many variables with this process, and its too easy to overcarb the beer. Then you are forced with de-gassing issues.
If the 2 week method fits your brewing style though, I say go for it.
You can still do 24hrs @ 30psi on cold wort and get the same results in a day rather than 2 weeks. The key is to keep everything constant (cold beer, same psi setting, same amount of hours). IF you feel this is still not to your desired carb level, extend it an additional 2-4 hours and re-try. If this is where you like it, then for future kegs, all you need to do is leave it on the gas for 26-28 hours instead.
Like mentioned already, rolling the keg can carb up a beer quick, but there are too many variables with this process, and its too easy to overcarb the beer. Then you are forced with de-gassing issues.
If the 2 week method fits your brewing style though, I say go for it.
I had no idea just 24 hours or a little more at 30psi would carb the beer that quickly. Or maybe it's the newbie in me and I misread what some where saying. I will keep this in mind next time for sure!!! Well I'm de-gassing now until I go to bed, then I will set it to 10 or 12 psi for the night and hope for the best tomorrow. Haha
I have a 5 tap keezer with a 7 unit co2 distributor. 2 of the co2 lines have liquid disconnects on them so I can carb 2 cornies at a time through their out posts. Seems to carb them quicker than using the in posts.
Thank you everyone for your help!!! I went from a flat beer (well very slightly carbonated), to an over carbonated (cup o'foam) to a perfectly carbonated beer!!! [emoji106]
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1438036478.386477.jpg
Yes the head on this pour was big but it settled nice and quickly. Plus it the first test pour once I got it dialed in!! Afterwards the beer had a nice head and slightly smaller. Also the beer tasted so much better once it was properly carbonated!!! Thanks again and I couldn't be happier for all the help and support from you all!! Cheers!!!! [emoji482]
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1438036478.386477.jpg
Yes the head on this pour was big but it settled nice and quickly. Plus it the first test pour once I got it dialed in!! Afterwards the beer had a nice head and slightly smaller. Also the beer tasted so much better once it was properly carbonated!!! Thanks again and I couldn't be happier for all the help and support from you all!! Cheers!!!! [emoji482]
