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bigpapa7272

bigpapa7272

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Decided I am going to build a keezer. I figure that this will be a fun project, and that I can finally stop screwing around with bottles!:mug:

Found a couple lines on chest freezers thanks to craigslist 1 is a 5cf for 40 bucks 1 is a 7cf for 75. :ban:

Im leaning towards the 7cf. I want 4 taps on this sucker.
Ive already decided 1 tap will be a dedicated root beer.

Couple ?s

Will a 7cf be big enough for 4 pin lock kegs?

Should I acquire the temp controller now or wait til the collar build is complete? Digital or analog?

Who has the best prices and reasonable ship times to Maryland on parts(faucets shanks etc)?
 
If your not to picky on exact temps for your beer u dont need to buy a temp controller i keep mine at 30 degrees using this thread :
Guide to set internal chest freezer thermostat
 
I used KegConnection for my Perlicks/shanks/connections and they had great prices and good turnaround times/communication.
I will be doing a keezer as well in the next week or so- have yet to try the internal freezer control screw adjustment method, but will let you know once I get it how it works out.
From the thread, it seems to work fine, but takes a bit of patience and minute turns to get it 'dialed in'
 
I got the add a tap kits from rebel brewer - (http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shoppingcart/products/Add%2dA%2dTap-Kit.html). Our keezer is outside so we ended up with 4 tap covers too.

We have a pop/soda keg too. If you do a single regulator system, you're going to have to really adjust the manifold and gas pressure carefully. I carb my pop/soda up at around 30 psi for at least 3-4 days, before dialing back to serving pressure. if you serve beer at that, you'll have a fire hose. I've heard about the bayonettes from McMaster but never got around to trying it. Also, you will need twice the length on your rootbeer keg for serving as you do on your beer kegs. Otherwise the pressure builds so bad that it just leaks constantly. We had that problem with picnic taps on a cream soda keg.

We've gone from flat soda to over carbed beer literally overnight because the wrong valves got changed.
 
Check your LHBS too. Most people write them off as too expensive but once you factor in shipping for some of these online places, they are usually pretty competitive.

I just picked up two more ball-lock cornies at my LHBS today for $39.95 a pop and they give you a new set of o-rings with each keg you buy!
 
Well found a smoking good deal on faucets and shanks.. Better than rebel brewer. From the beverage factory ebay store. 4 faucets with shanks nuts and nipples 96 bucks shipped!

Saw a steel 7lb CO2 tank from beverage elements for 40 bucks shipped. they also have cut handle ball locks 4 for 74.95 plus ship so its around $120 with ship.

Anyone have thoughts on them before I buy a tank or 2 and a 4 pack of cornys??

So far its coming together waiting on the people with freezers listed to call me back. Especially since I found a potentially freebie!
 
Hey bigpapa7272....what style of keezer are you going for....collar? coffin?

I recommend at least the 7 cu.ft. freezer with 4 kegs & 4 taps. I also recommend a dual body regulator with a 3-way manifold off of one body, with the other reserved for carbing up a new keg or for styles that require a little higher carbonation level. Most 7 cu.ft. freezers will hold 4 cornys on the floor as well as a 5lb CO2 tank....not sure about the 7lb tank. If it's the same diameter as the 5lb, but just taller....it wouldn't be a problem, but if it's much larger in diameter, it may be tight.

In retro-spect, I love the way my rustic keezer turned out and I get compliments from everyone on it, but I only installed 3 taps, eventhough my 7 cu. ft. GE holds 4 kegs. I figured that I could always have a "keg in waiting", but once a keg carbs up....I want to start pulling pints, so I'm moving around beer lines all of the time. I'm adding a 4th tap, but it's a P.I.T.A., because I knifed a log into a custom trim piece where the taps mount and now I have to start the process over and knife a new trim piece to accomodate 4 taps.

Good luck with your build and keep the thread updated, so we can follow your progress. Cheers. :mug:
 
By the way....what type of faucets and shanks did you get the "smokin' hot deal on"? I strongly recommend the Perlick 525ss forward sealing faucets. I have heard nightmare stories about stuck faucets with cheaper ball valve faucets. IMO the little extra $ for the forward sealing Perlick faucets greatly outweighs having to deal with stuck faucets down the line. My 2 cents. :mug:
 
Hoppopotomus said:
By the way....what type of faucets and shanks did you get the "smokin' hot deal on"? I strongly recommend the Perlick 525ss forward sealing faucets. I have heard nightmare stories about stuck faucets with cheaper ball valve faucets. IMO the little extra $ for the forward sealing Perlick faucets greatly outweighs having to deal with stuck faucets down the line. My 2 cents. :mug:
Click to expand...

They are standard faucets with brass levers the shanks have welded nipples on the end. they have 3 inch shanks on the.
 
Hoppopotomus said:
Hey bigpapa7272....what style of keezer are you going for....collar? coffin?

I recommend at least the 7 cu.ft. freezer with 4 kegs & 4 taps. I also recommend a dual body regulator with a 3-way manifold off of one body, with the other reserved for carbing up a new keg or for styles that require a little higher carbonation level. Most 7 cu.ft. freezers will hold 4 cornys on the floor as well as a 5lb CO2 tank....not sure about the 7lb tank. If it's the same diameter as the 5lb, but just taller....it wouldn't be a problem, but if it's much larger in diameter, it may be tight.

In retro-spect, I love the way my rustic keezer turned out and I get compliments from everyone on it, but I only installed 3 taps, eventhough my 7 cu. ft. GE holds 4 kegs. I figured that I could always have a "keg in waiting", but once a keg carbs up....I want to start pulling pints, so I'm moving around beer lines all of the time. I'm adding a 4th tap, but it's a P.I.T.A., because I knifed a log into a custom trim piece where the taps mount and now I have to start the process over and knife a new trim piece to accomodate 4 taps.

Good luck with your build and keep the thread updated, so we can follow your progress. Cheers. :mug:
Click to expand...


the 7lb tank is steel tall(29 inches) and really skinny, still debating wether or not to go with that. my lhbs has reconditioned 10# steel tanks for the same price as 5lb reconditioned and they fill tanks onsite! So I am actually leaning towards that since I have heard you get a 10 year hydro date on steel.

I plan on 4 taps out of the gate. i will be putting a collar on the keezer for sure.

I am still waiting for the aftermath of the hurricane to settle. Right now I have a freebie 10cf chest freezer lined up just waiting on the guy to get his power back. I want to make sure it didnt get fried in with the abrupt power on's and offs in the storm.
 
Hoodweisen said:
Yes 30F beer doesnt freeze at 32 and im not to picky about it having to be at 44.5672 degrees or whatever if it needs to be i figure its eventually gonna warm up.
Click to expand...

Lol...

Don't you think that 30F is too cold of a serving temperature? I think it is. Especially for dark ales and barleywines.

I suggest buying a temperature controller. Your beer will taste better if you serve it at a warmer temperature. Trust me.
 
bigpapa - if you search, you'll find lots of love for the Perlick faucets. And after many years of standard faucets, I finally switched a couple of years ago - save yourself the headache - go Perlick now, if at all possible.

check your keg dimensions - I have ball locks, pin locks might be narrower - but 4 ball locks will often not fit in a 7cu ft freezer unless placing one on the compressor hump, which will require a very large collar.

that 10 cu ft would be better.
 
Perlicks are great, but at $50 a pop for just the spout, they are an upgrade. I was concerned about mine sticking since my keezer is on my porch, but I haven't had any problems at all. My only problems are the bees that the beer/pop attracts. I use the black faucet covers to keep the bugs away and collect any drips.
 
Well Tommorrow is the big day I pickup the freezer. I got the freebie. Its a 10cf kenmore about 15 years old. Heck when he said kenmore I fell in love with it. My grandma has always swore by kenmore products.
 
bigpapa7272 said:
Well Tommorrow is the big day I pickup the freezer. I got the freebie. Its a 10cf kenmore about 15 years old. Heck when he said kenmore I fell in love with it. My grandma has always swore by kenmore products.
Click to expand...

Ultimate SCORE.. now you can buy perlicks. DO NOT even think about any other faucet trust me. don't listen to the folks who think perlicks are upgrades. thats like saying front disc brakes are upgrades from drums on a newer cars.

EDIT: $25 dollar perlicks http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shoppingcart/products/Perlick-Perl-Chrome-Beer-Faucet.html so don't go telling me they are $50 each.


-=Jason=-
 
bigpapa7272 said:
are there self closing perlicks?
Click to expand...

not sure what you mean by self closing, but perlicks are forward sealing

3798504002_62a231c518.jpg


-=Jason=-
 
Picked up the Freezer this morning its in decent shape for its age will need a little tlc to get going pics comings in a bit
 
Ok question since the lid apparently has a cooling element in it, I was thinking about removing the top cooling element and just insulating top with some foam board. Is that ok or do you think that would affect the cooling of the unit?

Since I am off work tommorrow I will commence with cleaning inside and out. Getting supplies for the build. 2x4's for the coffin, some gaskets and taking a trip to the LHBS to get a few things.
 
bigpapa7272 said:
Ok question since the lid apparently has a cooling element in it, I was thinking about removing the top cooling element and just insulating top with some foam board. Is that ok or do you think that would affect the cooling of the unit?

Since I am off work tommorrow I will commence with cleaning inside and out. Getting supplies for the build. 2x4's for the coffin, some gaskets and taking a trip to the LHBS to get a few things.
Click to expand...

I got a freebie as well. Mine is quite small, but I should be able to fit at least 3 in there. Mine is split in half by a hump where the compressor sits. I plan on doing a wood collar. Is it ok that the kegs sit on the ledge and stick out where the top would normally sit? So the top of the kegs would be half way up the wooden portion. That wouldnt affect cooling or anything like that would it? Let me know if that doesn't make any sense. Ha!
 
bigpapa7272 said:
Ok question since the lid apparently has a cooling element in it, I was thinking about removing the top cooling element and just insulating top with some foam board. Is that ok or do you think that would affect the cooling of the unit?

Since I am off work tommorrow I will commence with cleaning inside and out. Getting supplies for the build. 2x4's for the coffin, some gaskets and taking a trip to the LHBS to get a few things.
Click to expand...

fwiw, I would be extremely surprised (no - make that astonished) if that freezer has anything associated with "cooling" implemented in the lid. All I see is a power cord - and that's most likely there for an optional interior light typically operated by an integrated mercury switch.

Plug the unit into the wall, turn it on, and leave the lid open. Let it run for 15 minutes, then run your hand around the interior walls, and then the inside of the lid. Assuming the compressor works and there's plenty of coolant circulating in the lines, it should quickly show you where the cooling (expansion) coils are actually located - and I bet they're all high up on the inside wall of the body - and none are in the lid.

While you're at this, run your hand around the exterior walls of the chest. You should note how warm the walls are - because this unit looks like a typical "warm wall" design, that couples the condenser plumbing to the exterior sheet metal for heat dissipation. This should provide ample caution about arbitrarily drilling holes into the chest body from inside or out...

Cheers!
 
Hoppopotomus said:
IMO....pay the $60-$70 for an external temperature controller, you won't regret it. :D
Click to expand...

You can get an adequate temp controller for about $25 on ebay
 
Well the Rain we are having put a damper on brewing today. At least the ups guy got here early with one of the kits I ordered. So I took a trip down to my LHBS, and fattened his pocket a little. Got a 7lb refurb C02 tank for 49.95! 30 bucks cheaper than his 5lb refurb. Yeah Its skinny and tall but will work fine for me! Heck at that price I may pickup another!

Decided to pickup an analog temperature controller, I figure since I am not going to be opening the lid a whole bunch why spend the extra on the digital? And with the $$ money i saved I bought another beer kit(Summer Ale)! So I I will have American Light and a Summer ale on tap as my first 2 Brews in the Keezer.

Also went to home depot to get some supplies, Picked up some Wood 2x6 for the collar and 2x3's for the base, some liquid nails, some regular nails and 4 casters 2 with brakes and 2 without and hardware for the casters.

Doing a little cleaning after dinner and I think I will hook up the temp controller and give it a test run
 
Well I got the dolly built yesterday. I used 2x3's and some nice long nails and some 2.5 inch casters from home depot. Pictures coming later. Now I can work on Final design.
 
Tested out the analog temp controller! works pretty darn good. Just pulled the trigger on 4 perlick 525 chrome faucets from ritebrew. 76 bucks for 4 shipped priority mail. hopefully they will be in my mailbox by the end of the week!
 
Nice work on the perlicks, I still need to replace two of mine that came on my towers when I bought them.

-= Jason =-
 
Alrighty Im back with some pics, :ban::ban::ban::mug::rockin: I took apart the lid today, I cant believe they did all that wiring for a stupid little light. took out worn out handle. too off the lock for which which there was no key.

Anyways the gaskets were shot and the plastic on the underside of the lid was so brittle it cracked easily, insultation was a little suspect so im off to the Home depot to get some foam board insulation for the lid

Was wondering what I should do about the excess electrical wire that ran all the way up to the lid

Should i undo the splitters and put a new electrical cord on it or just take the cord that was running to the lid zip tiie it up and let it sit on the bottom opening where the compressor is?

2011-09-30_20-35-49_107.jpg


2011-09-30_20-35-40_921.jpg


2011-09-30_20-36-08_679.jpg


2011-09-30_20-38-59_718.jpg


2011-09-30_20-35-11_18.jpg
 
Well Put a Few good Hours into it today, figured out that goofy light is required to complete the electrical circuit in the power cord. I will hook it back up and Hide it. I Put Nails in the collar and come 3 inch corner braces inside for reinforcement, did some sanding to smooth out the wood, drilled Shank holes attached collar to the hinges tested operation of the hinges and put shanks in to test fit.

BTW The Keezer will be getting a paint Job, Capitals Blue and Capitals Red. Will be using chalkboard paint inbetween the taps on the collar to specify the Beer. Also Ive decided not to do a dedicated rootbeer, I will do a carbed water with Make your own Soda Flavor Station



Im Pooped but here are some pictures for you to drool over :D:mug::rockin:
 

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