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RIMS Heat Exchanger Tube

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davebl

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2007
Messages
298
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Location
Central Arkansas
One sold, two remain

The backstory: approx 4 years ago I began to built my Brew-Magic clone, and succeeded. After about a year of brewing, it was time to tear her down for some cleaning and maintenance and that's what I found the short comings of using threaded pipe fittings. There was a TON of built up sludge and gunk on the heating element, very gross. I began to find a easily cleanable solution and that's what led me here.

What I constructed was a completely Tri-Clamp system that uses a tee an an eccentric reducer to house the heating element. The eccentric reducer naturally forced the air pocket out of the heat exchanger. 3 years later, this setup is still rocking and rolling and most important, is clean! The heating element I use is a short, high density Camco element. You have to make a slight bend to it, and it fits perfectly.

To get the parts, I had to meet a minimum order of $250.00. At the time, my plan was to perfect the HEX tube and then resell them. After speaking to my attorney brother in law, I'm frankly too scared of the liability of mixing electricity and water, so I dug these out of the closet and decided its time to liquidate.

I have three of these total. They come with the tube, the 1" TC fitting to hold the heating element, and then your choice on the bottom and exit fittings. You can get either 1/2" male or 1/2" female fittings on each side. I'll toss in some extra o-rings as I divvy up the inventory.

Here are some pictures of the HEX tube:
7363728012_544e142cff_b.jpg

7363728246_5c4d125803_b.jpg

7363728524_9ffcbe0bbc_b.jpg


And here's the tube installed in my rig, so you can see how I plumbed it:
7363730432_64a0b74d0a_b.jpg


I pump in from the bottom and have my PID temp probe on the exit of the tube. I find no differences from the PID and my mash temp once everything gets warmed up and circulating. I also pump 100% of the mash duration.

No leaks, seconds to disassemble and clean.

I'm asking $100.00 per setup, shipped Priority Mail. PM with any questions!
 
I think I am interested. Does it come with the element? Where does the elbow end go to and can that fitting be changed out? Where is the temp sensor placed? Would it be compatible with a bcs sensor?
Thanks
 
I think I am interested. Does it come with the element? Where does the elbow end go to and can that fitting be changed out? Where is the temp sensor placed? Would it be compatible with a bcs sensor?
Thanks

No element is included.

The elbow (as I have it setup) goes at the end. It's a tri-clamp setup so any fitting can be changed out, twisted and rotated.

I put the temp sensor in a 1/2" screwed tee on the output side of the HEX tube.

Not familiar the BCS system, but this a device that holds water around a heating element, therefore I would imagine it's compatible with any RIMS controller.
 
I'm in need of a RIMS tube, I'm not a flow guy but does having the input to the tub midpoint cause and stagnation of the flow in the left side near the element? how do you mount your temperature probe? is there a well, or do you use a fitting outside the output?

Are the triclamp to 1/2" fittings included for the input and output sides?
 
Elfmaze said:
I'm in need of a RIMS tube, I'm not a flow guy but does having the input to the tub midpoint cause and stagnation of the flow in the left side near the element? how do you mount your temperature probe? is there a well, or do you use a fitting outside the output?

Are the triclamp to 1/2" fittings included for the input and output sides?

I have no issues with stagnant flow. I mount my temp probe in a threaded tee fitting directly screwed onto the exit fitting. The RIMS tube itself has no ports.

The TC fittings are included, your choice of male or female 1/2" threaded connections.
 
paypal sent, your pm box is full though.

Curious, your quote "The heating element I use is a short, high density Camco element"

In your original RIMS tube you went the typical route of ultra low density 240v element. Why switch to a short high density version?
 
Elfmaze said:
paypal sent, your pm box is full though.

Curious, your quote "The heating element I use is a short, high density Camco element"

In your original RIMS tube you went the typical route of ultra low density 240v element. Why switch to a short high density version?

Because it fit better :)

I have noticed zero scorching at all but I run it at 120v.
 
I read through your rims build thread and was impressed. When you decided to upgrade to sanitary fittings and, where did you get your supplies? I also live in central arkansas and would love to find a local supplier.

Thanks
 
What actual pieces do you get? I can't see the first pics.

On the left is the addaptor I beleive is holding the heating element, then the tee that water comes in from the bottom, dont under stand the tee and whats other stuff on the bottom, does the coned reducer come also.

I am interested and will be ordering a rims tube this week.
 
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