15 Gallon Fermenter Table Build

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So the websites I'm looking at show the lid as a solid lid...dont we need the airlock? Am i missing something in the 16 pages of this thread about adding one?

Modifications must be made for the lid to actually seal. Here's an example of said modication. So I guess it's OK to not have an airlock. I sealed mine, but I'm still not using an airlock. I installed a bulkhead through the lid. Other people on this forum have done the same, I think.
 
SBD, I may have missed it earlier in the thread, but is there a specific reason that you went from the fancy SS valves and fittings to PVC? I like the idea since it's a tiny fraction of the cost, but if you already had the fittings, why change out to PVC?
 
SBD, I may have missed it earlier in the thread, but is there a specific reason that you went from the fancy SS valves and fittings to PVC? I like the idea since it's a tiny fraction of the cost, but if you already had the fittings, why change out to PVC?

Lighter, easier to remove and clean, easier to open/close valve. Entire weight of conical lighter to lift and move.:rockin:
 
Right on. I figured that it had to be something relatively compelling for you to decide to switch it out after it was already up and going.

I got my tank from the USP guy today (couldn't pass up the free shipping) and have a bag full of PVC bits and pieces. I'm looking forward to putting mine together and getting it mounted in my fermentation fridge this weekend. Thanks for the guidance.
 
Extra photos of the yeast/scrub catcher for the 30 gallon fermenter.
Remove/Clean/Sanitize

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Man i need to get something like this tired of splitting 10 gal batches into different ferm. Need more time to read these. Need to get back to work.
 
Thanks for the information SpottedDog. I am beginning to accumulate pieces for a 15 gallon conical build. I was thinking of using a clear PVC for the body of the yeast/scrub catcher. What is the diameter on the body of the catcher for the 15 gallon? I found 1 ft of 2" clear PVC for $12 plus ship, or 1 ft of 3" for $25. Kinda pricey, but still cheap compared to a real sight glass. I like the idea of being able to see whats going on down there. Thanks again for the ideas!

http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-CLEAR-PIPE-NSF-Sch40
 
GrillManBill said:
Thanks for the information SpottedDog. I am beginning to accumulate pieces for a 15 gallon conical build. I was thinking of using a clear PVC for the body of the yeast/scrub catcher. What is the diameter on the body of the catcher for the 15 gallon? I found 1 ft of 2" clear PVC for $12 plus ship, or 1 ft of 3" for $25. Kinda pricey, but still cheap compared to a real sight glass. I like the idea of being able to see whats going on down there. Thanks again for the ideas!

http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-CLEAR-PIPE-NSF-Sch40

I've been pretty busy at work, I'm keg'n and bottling tonight so I I remember I'll take a look!
Check out post #96 and let me know if that is enough info
 
I've been pretty busy at work, I'm keg'n and bottling tonight so I I remember I'll take a look!
Check out post #96 and let me know if that is enough info

It looks like you used 4" for the body. I think I will try the 3" clear and make the body longer. I will have plenty of clearance in my planned stand. I will shoot for about a quart of capacity. Thanks.
 
kinda breaks my heart to see all that awesome yeast get poured down the drain...maybe you should ziplock bag the next harvest and mail it to me...i would gladly pay shipping!
 
Spotted, how tall is it from the floor to the top of the fermentor? I am just trying to get an idea if this will work for me as I am working on building a fermentation chamber.
 
ghoti said:
Spotted, how tall is it from the floor to the top of the fermentor? I am just trying to get an idea if this will work for me as I am working on building a fermentation chamber.

71.5" for the 30 gallon fermenter & 66.5" for the 15 gallon!

The 30 gallon if I cut a larger hole in the table could lower roughly 8.5". The 15 gallon could lower roughly 4".

I guess you could possible build the the table high enough to fit a bucket under the yeast catcher. A typical brewing bucket is 17". Just make sure you can get it under the ball valve and yeast catcher if your going to have one of those!!

Check post #122 in this thread for some other measurements

Good luck
 
The last batch a ran...First AG BTW. i'm still having trouble getting things to settle into the catcher after i dump the yeast.

This last time i had a 2' section of 1/4" copper tubing, sanitized inside/out and i was breaking the cake after i put the catcher back on.starting to think i need to go to a larger valve and have the reducer after the valve instead of before.

thoughts?
 
lonepalm said:
The last batch a ran...First AG BTW. i'm still having trouble getting things to settle into the catcher after i dump the yeast.

This last time i had a 2' section of 1/4" copper tubing, sanitized inside/out and i was breaking the cake after i put the catcher back on.starting to think i need to go to a larger valve and have the reducer after the valve instead of before.

thoughts?
I typically leave the valve open during fermentation, so most I the stuff settles in the catcher! Sounds like you may have had the valve closed and it formed a hard layer above the valve!
 
it was all open..the yeast dump was full, just can't get it to settle back down....only new addition to the mix is a 9" gasket to seal the lid. maybe once it is off the yeast. remove the sanitizer from the airlock?
 
it was all open..the yeast dump was full, just can't get it to settle back down....only new addition to the mix is a 9" gasket to seal the lid. maybe once it is off the yeast. remove the sanitizer from the airlock?

How much will your yeast/shrub catcher hold? for my 30 gallon fermenter I made a 2 quart catcher, I may make one that is 3 quart or 1 gallon.

Same goes for the 15 gallon fermenter, right now I have a 1 quart. I should move it up to possibly 2quart or 3 quart.

You have to find the sweet spot where everything collects in there during fermentation and secondary times.

If you have a smaller catcher try changing it out more often or make a larger one.:mug:
 
So it seems like the basic premise is that your "yeast catcher" is really a "yeast and everything else catcher" and your goal is not so much harvesting the yeast (as I don't see how you would be separating the yeast from the trub after you collect it), just getting the beer off of the trub and yeast and having a clearer beer when kegging?
 
Jeebas said:
So it seems like the basic premise is that your "yeast catcher" is really a "yeast and everything else catcher" and your goal is not so much harvesting the yeast (as I don't see how you would be separating the yeast from the trub after you collect it), just getting the beer off of the trub and yeast and having a clearer beer when kegging?

CORRECT! Kinda
But yeast can still be harvested from the first dumping after fermentation is complete.
Not any different than collecting the yeast from the bottom of an Ale Pail after fermentation. Check out the wiki on yeast washing.
It makes the entire secondary process much easier also; Once the first dumping the clearing process begins in the yeast/shrub catcher:)
Cheers
 
CORRECT! Kinda
But yeast can still be harvested from the first dumping after fermentation is complete.
Not any different than collecting the yeast from the bottom of an Ale Pail after fermentation. Check out the wiki on yeast washing.
It makes the entire secondary process much easier also; Once the first dumping the clearing process begins in the yeast/shrub catcher:)
Cheers

Sweet! I'm gonna have to add a build like this to my list (yay! and ugh! at the same time)
 
How much will your yeast/shrub catcher hold? for my 30 gallon fermenter I made a 2 quart catcher, I may make one that is 3 quart or 1 gallon.

Same goes for the 15 gallon fermenter, right now I have a 1 quart. I should move it up to possibly 2quart or 3 quart.

You have to find the sweet spot where everything collects in there during fermentation and secondary times.

If you have a smaller catcher try changing it out more often or make a larger one.:mug:

Do you filter anything through a screen or have a hop screen that cuts down on trub? I usually just dump it all in
 
I understand that you have the valve open to get the first batch of yeast/junk (Primary). But once you clean it out and re-attach it and open it again to collect the (Secondary) yeast/junk; are you not opening up and allowing a 1-2quart air/oxygen bubble to pass through the leftovers and agitating it into the beer?
 
kumachan said:
I understand that you have the valve open to get the first batch of yeast/junk (Primary). But once you clean it out and re-attach it and open it again to collect the (Secondary) yeast/junk; are you not opening up and allowing a 1-2quart air/oxygen bubble to pass through the leftovers and agitating it into the beer?

YES!
A few times I've injected the catcher with CO2 and installed, but I haven't had a problem with air getting in from the catcher. But once the air goes to the top I'm sure the CO2 Sitting on top of the beer pushes the air out!
 
darn you people and your inspiring me to spend more money.... Very cool though. Is there a general consensus on which opening to get, Full drain vs the inductor tank with bulkhead fitting? I'd imagine the full drain is nice because you don't have edges for gunk to collect.
 
Hey I've had my eye on this trub turd catcher. I'm not an overly cautious person but the idea of using PVC for extended periods of time makes my go HMMM.

I just ran across this and thought it would be a prefect upgrade. It requires converting your 1" thread to a tri-clamp ferrule but that in itself would be a nice upgrade. They come in .5L and 1L all the way up to 20L sizes. $65 for the .5L as of writing this, $69 for 1L.

http://www.gwkent.com/stainless-steel-bottles.html

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scottkct said:
Hey I've had my eye on this trub turd catcher. I'm not an overly cautious person but the idea of using PVC for extended periods of time makes my go HMMM.

I just ran across this and thought it would be a prefect upgrade. It requires converting your 1" thread to a tri-clamp ferrule but that in itself would be a nice upgrade. They come in .5L and 1L all the way up to 20L sizes. $65 for the .5L as of writing this, $69 for 1L.

http://www.gwkent.com/stainless-steel-bottles.html

Very Nice :)
 
Side by side...1st batch 5 gallon of APA bottled, little glass 10 gallon

Love the clarity of your beer. I wonder how do you do that.
My homebrews are always cloudy no matter what. I really don't mind but wife and friends do prefer clear beers. Right now i only bottle them, can't go keg yet.
Cheers to you!
 
Love the yeast catcher idea. I went to pick up parts at Lowe's, and the only 1-1/2" to 4" adapter I could find was DWV rated, which is not for potable water. Biggest pipe I could get that was NSF-PW (potable water rated) was 2", and I couldn't even find all the right fittings at that size. Any idea if you used the NSF-PW or the DWV? If you used DWV, does anyone know where to find similar 4" fittings that are NSF-PW rated?
 
Love the yeast catcher idea. I went to pick up parts at Lowe's, and the only 1-1/2" to 4" adapter I could find was DWV rated, which is not for potable water. Biggest pipe I could get that was NSF-PW (potable water rated) was 2", and I couldn't even find all the right fittings at that size. Any idea if you used the NSF-PW or the DWV? If you used DWV, does anyone know where to find similar 4" fittings that are NSF-PW rated?


If I remember correctly, I bought some of the parts from Lowes and some of the parts from Home depot! All items were potable rated.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Since my next project after I finish my brewery rebuild is to ditch the two 6.5g glass carboys and go to a single plastic conical.. I 'really' appreciate this thread..

Lots of great info, and answered most of my questions...

:tank:
 
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