Electric Boil Kettle

Ok, I've been searching and reading and searching and reading and I still haven't seen what I want to see. . .

Can anyone point my in the direction of a thread where someone has converted a boil kettle to electric (240v like Kal's) just to replace the gas burner method?

As in, heat strike water with it, lift by hand and pour in DIY cooler mash tun, drain back into kettle, boil, drop an immersion chiller in, and open the valve and drain it into the fermenter.

This is what I'm hoping to do here soon. I don't have the time currently to get a multi teared system set up and I don't want to spend the money on a full blown eHERMS or anything. . . I just want to replace my simple keggle on a burner with a keggle with a element inside.

If I can get away with it I'd even avoid the controller, but being able to "set it and forget it" with a PID would be nice.

Anyway, I'm going to try and continue to wrap my mind around everything (I'm REALLY new at this). . .but I'd like to make the jump to AG as soon as I can. I just don't want to mess with the propane anymore. Don't want to freeze my ars off in the winter when it drops to -40 here. . .I'd rather throw a range hood in the shed and happily boil away indoors where man is supposed to be when it's that cold. . .

Thanks for any help!

Here is a diagram that might help you:

As usual - click on the image for a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid Paper (11" x 17")



Most all of the parts can be sourced from Auber Instruments including the enclosure.

I sure hope this is of some help for you in your adventure.

P-J

I put a parts list together that might help.

I don't know if its the same , building keg boiler with 5500 Watt 240v right now , very simple hardest part is controlling the heat element with a phase controller. let me know if interested I would pm the links . no heat contactor ,just a disconecting switch, solid state relay and potent controller plus an amp gauge. No pumping contols. very simple minimal parts build.

^^^^ Yes please, PM me the links on this simple 5500w boiler...thanks!

crap i sent pm it to KPSquared

Sounds like what I did before I built a control panel. I used a 4500 Watt element so it could be run full throttle without as much boilover risk. I put the element in the keggle the same way Kal did only I used an all weather cover and bought a 30A DPST switch from Lowe's. This allows the element to be turned on/off directly from the side of the keggle without having to be unplugged. I bought an air conditioner extension cord and just cut one end off to wire up the element/switch and left the other end alone to be plugged into the wall. I'll see if I have any pics of it; since then I have built a control panel. Good luck.

No this one with a allows you to control the heat element amperage, with the solid state relay.. so you can control the temp .

vinper said:

No this one with a allows you to control the heat element amperage, with the solid state relay.. so you can control the temp .

Click to expand...

Sounds like magic. Resistive elements are on or off and there fore the amperage or current is equally on or off. Are you talking about PWM?

Well the call it a phase angle controller.... also they also make a 110volt controller out of a router rpm controller from harbor freight. dont know what a PWM is but for this build they use a crydom solid state relay part # D2425-10 and a 250k ohm2wtt potentmeter. you can put a amp meter on and watch amps/watts and control the temps its not an off /on switch

Yes it is a Pulse Width Modulator

vinper said:

Well the call it a phase angle controller.... also they also make a 110volt controller out of a router rpm controller from harbor freight. dont know what a PWM is but for this build they use a crydom solid state relay part # D2425-10 and a 250k ohm2wtt potentmeter. you can put a amp meter on and watch amps/watts and control the temps its not an off /on switch

Click to expand...

I looked extensively before going with switches and the only rheostat I could find that could handle the current draw of a 4500 or 5500 watt element was over $300. If you are talking about a 120v element you will be limited to about 2000 watts. If you want the larger elements the cheapest method is PID, PWM, or a switch as long as you can control boilovers.

I just showed you one for $50 it will go atleast 4500 watts 220v 30amps . want more info . Im building a 5500wtt 220v boiler with phase control for about 70$.Is supposed to bring 5 gallon to boil in around 30 min.

I never notice the electric brew section or would have/will start a thread

RTL said:

Sounds like what I did before I built a control panel. I used a 4500 Watt element so it could be run full throttle without as much boilover risk. I put the element in the keggle the same way Kal did only I used an all weather cover and bought a 30A DPST switch from Lowe's. This allows the element to be turned on/off directly from the side of the keggle without having to be unplugged. I bought an air conditioner extension cord and just cut one end off to wire up the element/switch and left the other end alone to be plugged into the wall. I'll see if I have any pics of it; since then I have built a control panel. Good luck.

Click to expand...

This above is the simplest method, however there are downsides to just simply running an element at 100%, or just simply "plugged in". It will take longer to get to a boil, without boiling over, and it can be difficult to dial in a precise boil off rate. Simply put, you can absolutely make beer with an element installed in a kettle w/ no controller, however the element must be sized to avoid boilover and boil at an acceptable rate...say 3500 - 4500w depending on kettle size and batch size, 5-10 gallon batches.

A 555 PWM is 30 dollars with the SSR. I don't think it can be done any cheaper than mine. I have this, I use it for HLT and kettle. I have a cooler and 5 gallon buckets to mash and move the liquids around. My pump is in the closet, its too much work to clean.

wilserbrewer said:

This above is the simplest method, however there are downsides to just simply running an element at 100%, or just simply "plugged in". It will take longer to get to a boil, without boiling over, and it can be difficult to dial in a precise boil off rate. Simply put, you can absolutely make beer with an element installed in a kettle w/ no controller, however the element must be sized to avoid boilover and boil at an acceptable rate...say 3500 - 4500w depending on kettle size and batch size, 5-10 gallon batches.

Click to expand...

True that. I put a fan blowing on the BK to prevent boil overs. I didn't have problems getting to a boil though, as soon as it started foaming up I stirred like a mad man.

I posted the links in electric brew section...easy 5500 wtt 220v controller ..... see what you think I just ordered all the parts