Uh oh, what now , just kegged but

Ok, so I just kegged my first two batches into two corny kegs. Everything seeme dto be going great I sanitized everything before kegging. I had both kegs full and was going to put 12 lbs co2 on them and leave them for a week when I went and attached the beer out line , which I should not have I am guessing - the tap was engaged and beer shot out - ok , noy so big a deal but my concern is that beer line is now filled with beer and I cant think of anyway to clean it?

What should I do?
is there a way to clean it?
Put 30 lbs on the kegs and let sit overnight then drop down so I can drink faster and minimize time beer is in the line?

Help, please
Signed,
Clueless

Do you have an extra keg? Usually I use an extra keg that I fill with PBW or Oxy, seal it and run that through the lines, followed by super hot water and then star san. If you do not have an extra keg you might want to consider doing something like this.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/diy-beer-line-cleaner-226497/

So you can clean that out, your not in a super rush but I would get it done soon. I do not like beer hanging out in my lines.

Or you could go the 30 psi option but that would have to be for 2 days. Also you could put 30 psi on the keg and shake it for 15 mintues.

why do you need to clean it? is the beer dirty?

audger said:

why do you need to clean it? is the beer dirty?

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Audger you think the beer in the line can stay and just be flushed a week from now ? ( my original plan : Let beer sit in the kegs 1 week then carbonate)

Or I can put higher pressure on them 30 or so over night, or two days as suggested?

I do not have a extra (third) keg, so that's unfortunately out.

Did you clean the lines before this happened?

GodsStepBrother said:

Do you have an extra keg? Usually I use an extra keg that I fill with PBW or Oxy, seal it and run that through the lines, followed by super hot water and then star san. If you do not have an extra keg you might want to consider doing something like this.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/diy-beer-line-cleaner-226497/

So you can clean that out, your not in a super rush but I would get it done soon. I do not like beer hanging out in my lines.

Or you could go the 30 psi option but that would have to be for 2 days. Also you could put 30 psi on the keg and shake it for 15 mintues.

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That rig is pretty cool. I may just do that. Thanks for the heads up GodsStepBrother

don't see the problem unless the lines had not been cleaned. you'll be pulling beer through once its carbed and unless you're going to kick the keg in one sittng the lines will have beer in them.

GodsStepBrother said:

Did you clean the lines before this happened?

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Yes, absolutely ran a lot of starsan through them

diannotti said:

That rig is pretty cool. I may just do that. Thanks for the heads up GodsStepBrother

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It really is cool - for small money it let me put all of my cornies into rotation instead of keeping one empty for cleaning duty. Plus it's a whole lot easier to use (no heaving a keg into the keezer, and no gas required).

Of all the "DYI" tips I've found in the forums I give that one my top billing for price/performance

Cheers!

edie said:

don't see the problem unless the lines had not been cleaned. you'll be pulling beer through once its carbed and unless you're going to kick the keg in one sittng the lines will have beer in them.

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I did clean the lines just before ( ran about a gallon of starsan through, and these are new lines, likely a waste of CO2) so you think the line can have beer in it a week before I pour? Just dump out first pour? Should I reconnect the beer out line or just leave it disconnected and slow carb at 12 PSI for a week?

i wouldn't dump the first pull. in example, had a few people over last weekend and pulled from all 3 taps. having people over tomorrow for football watch and i don't plan on dumping anything. just pull my pint and move along.

can't think of a reason why not to go ahead and reconnect the beer line unless you're worried about someone pulling the tap.

you're going to love having the kegs. can't beat pulling your own beer from your own tap!!

enjoy

I don't see a problem, as long as the lines are kept cool inside a kegerator or keezer. No need to do anything dramatic, let the beer carb up in its own time, then run a cup or two through the faucet and dump it, and you should be good to go...

Cheers!

day_trippr said:

I don't see a problem, as long as the lines are kept cool inside a kegerator or keezer. No need to do anything dramatic, let the beer carb up in its own time, then run a cup or two through the faucet and dump it, and you should be good to go...

Cheers!

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I think I am going to put the kegs at 12 psi CO2 and wait about a week to test. What temperature should I set the Ranco at and what variance is good / safe for compressor? (This is a modified Danby 440BL)

Anyone have feedback on the 12 lbs for a week or temp / variance settings?

Serving temp is up to you, but low 40s is a good place to start. Don't know anything about the particular fridge but from the pics I've seen posted here before it has a large cold plate for its size which can't hurt.

On my fridges and keezer I always place my Ranco probes against a beer vessel - whether carboy or keg - with a palm size pad of 1" thick closed cell foam held in place with a wrap of velcro. Then I set the controller for the target temp with a 1°F differential. It really cuts down the compressor cycling.

As for the carbonation, 12psi is pretty typical, and from a standing start a week will get you roughly halfway to perfection...

Cheers!

day_trippr said:

Serving temp is up to you, but low 40s is a good place to start. Don't know anything about the particular fridge but from the pics I've seen posted here before it has a large cold plate for its size which can't hurt.

On my fridges and keezer I always place my Ranco probes against a beer vessel - whether carboy or keg - with a palm size pad of 1" thick closed cell foam held in place with a wrap of velcro. Then I set the controller for the target temp with a 1°F differential. It really cuts down the compressor cycling.

As for the carbonation, 12psi is pretty typical, and from a standing start a week will get you roughly halfway to perfection...

Cheers!

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Awesome, thanks for the input! Follow up question, I was thinking 3 or 4 degrees would cut down the on and off cycling - how would 1 be better?Wouldn't that force it on more often? i'm new to this kegerator scene so I really don't know - thanks

diannotti said:

Awesome, thanks for the input! Follow up question, I was thinking 3 or 4 degrees would cut down the on and off cycling - how would 1 be better?Wouldn't that force it on more often? i'm new to this kegerator scene so I really don't know - thanks

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Definitely, a smaller differential will cause more frequent cycling than larger. But if you have reasonably tight thermal coupling to a large volume of beer the cycling isn't as frequent as you might imagine. The benefit is a more consistent product at the faucet - or if you're fermenting, better control of yeast performance...

Cheers!

day_trippr said:

Definitely, a smaller differential will cause more frequent cycling than larger. But if you have reasonably tight thermal coupling to a large volume of beer the cycling isn't as frequent as you might imagine. The benefit is a more consistent product at the faucet - or if you're fermenting, better control of yeast performance...

Cheers!

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That makes sense, thanks.

diannotti said:

Audger you think the beer in the line can stay and just be flushed a week from now ?

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as long as the lines were sanitized before you put beer in them, how would it be any different than the beer sitting in a sanitized keg (either at room temperature or chilled, its the same)? the shape of the container doesnt matter.

you can either just dump the first cup of beer, or drink it if you want. it shouldnt matter one bit. the beer will be sitting in the lines normally unless you drink a whole keg in one sitting and immediately flush the lines.

and if you do that, you should really talk to someone about your alcoholism and obsessive compulsive disorder

Definitely, a smaller differential will cause more frequent cycling than larger. But if you have reasonably tight thermal coupling to a large volume of beer the cycling isn't as frequent as you might imagine.

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thats the problem for most refrigerators/conversions though; very loose thermal coupling to the beer. normally temperature probes are only reading the air temperature around the kegs, not the keg temperature itself. in this case you would want a larger hysteresis band so that the compressor doesnt short cycle. if your temperature probe was reading the keg temperature, then you could set a much smaller band (1-2 degrees) and not have that problem.

switching on and off is what causes the most wear on a compressor.

audger said:

as long as the lines were sanitized before you put beer in them, how would it be any different than the beer sitting in a sanitized keg (either at room temperature or chilled, its the same)? the shape of the container doesnt matter.

you can either just dump the first cup of beer, or drink it if you want. it shouldnt matter one bit. the beer will be sitting in the lines normally unless you drink a whole keg in one sitting and immediately flush the lines.

and if you do that, you should really talk to someone about your alcoholism and obsessive compulsive disorder



thats the problem for most refrigerators/conversions though; very loose thermal coupling to the beer. normally temperature probes are only reading the air temperature around the kegs, not the keg temperature itself. in this case you would want a larger hysteresis band so that the compressor doesnt short cycle. if your temperature probe was reading the keg temperature, then you could set a much smaller band (1-2 degrees) and not have that problem.

switching on and off is what causes the most wear on a compressor.

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What about packing the sensor in freezer pack gel in a plastic bottle? What do you think about that approach? Right now I have it attached to the side of one keg behind two pieces of that metal bubble pad insulation secured with a velcro strap.

diannotti said:

What about packing the sensor in freezer pack gel in a plastic bottle? What do you think about that approach? Right now I have it attached to the side of one keg behind two pieces of that metal bubble pad insulation secured with a velcro strap.

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I see you have been perusing the forums for what others are doing. Unfortunately, it is very hard to find out what best suits your constraints by going off other's decisions based on their constraints. You will find strong preferences for every probe placement, even dangling in air, if you can believe it.

If you focus on what is behind the rationales for each strategy, you can figure out which approach best suits your situation. For instance, the probe in a bottle of gel has the main advantages of being a permanent solution (no swapping the probe between kegs), while also adding some thermal mass; but not as much as if attached below the liquid level of a keg.

You're going to have beer in your lines when you start using the carbonated keg. As long as they were initially clean and sanitized you're fine. One keg usually last me around a month, that's a month with beer in the lines. If I were you I wouldn't worry. Let your keg force carb, youre probably going to empty the beer in the lines the first time you decide to test the carbonation level and ffter the first glass your worries will be gone.

Dan said:

You're going to have beer in your lines when you start using the carbonated keg. As long as they were initially clean and sanitized you're fine. One keg usually last me around a month, that's a month with beer in the lines. If I were you I wouldn't worry. Let your keg force carb, youre probably going to empty the beer in the lines the first time you decide to test the carbonation level and ffter the first glass your worries will be gone.

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Thanks Dan,

Maybe these are dumb questions but 1) Does liquid out disconnect need to be sanitized before attaching it to the liquid out post? Seems like yes, but I never see people mention sanitizing it, just all the keg parts and 2) Should I attach the liquid out disconnects now or just before I feel I should be carbed and ready to pour?
I also have one othet question I was wondering about. So far I noticed that I set the CO2 to 12 and it dropped to 10 a couple times I bumped it back up to 12 is this normal?

Diannotti, first man, there's really no dumb questions. As with anything else new, questions arise.

I'm by far not an expert but will attempt to give you good advice to your questions.

1) Yes, you should sanitize the liquid post before you connect. If you didnt, don't freak out, just do it soon. Beer, vice wort is more forgiving.. the alcohol does a decent job keeping the nasty bugs out.

2) You can sanitize and then attach the out disconnects now or when you are ready to pour. It really doesn't matter, just make sure all parts are clean and sanitized before you connect. (and if you didn't sanitize before conneting, refer to answer #1).

3) Pressurizing. Like I said, I'm no expert but I do have some experience. A 2psi drop is nothing to really worry about unless it continues to loose pressure after 4 or 5 days. That might mean a leak. Regulators aren't perfect, they're pretty accurate but they are not calibrated on a regular basis. In my job I use gauges, and test equipment that is calibrated on a regular bacis. Beer regulators aren't.

The hardest part of kegging is just waiting. You mentioned about a week at 12 psi. That might not be long enough. Don't freak out if your beer is not carbed up in a week, give it another weeek or increase the pressure to about 30psi for a day, day and a half. Then close the valve going to the keg, bleed of the excess pressure, turn the reg down to serving pressure. Believe me. It's really not all that hard. There are post on this site to help getting pressures set. But honestly, set and forget (if you can ) at your serving pressure for a 2 or 3 weeks will get you where you need to be and also clear your beer.