My Sanke's Full False Bottom (thanks jaybird)

I didn't feel like going through the effort and cost of putting the hinge on this sucker so I slotted the top of the keg like I've seen a few other people do. I used the small pressure relief holes in the top roll as reference points and let the 1/16" cutoff wheel fly.

First, a little warning. Doing this makes the keg a little oval on top. I might have to do a little rebending.

A test fit... like a glove.


The new siphon tube. The slots on the bottom allow it to continue sucking wort while sitting flat on the bottom.


I used the spring out of the sanke's valve to keep upward pressure on the perf sheet just in case the grain gets a little too heavy.



The final install. I drilled out to 1/2" for the copper but obviously had to enlarge the hole to exactly 5/8" with a dremel.


So far so good. It takes 3.5 quarts or .875 gallons to reach the false bottom. I suppose I have to add this amount to my normal strike volume?

SWEET BRO!!!:rockin: Thanks for the shout out. Now I can direct everyone to your thread...LOL
There are a thousand ways to do the connection. I like the use of the spring, great idea!

I have been able to trade with someone here on HBT 4oz of the hops you gave me for the 4oz of Amarillo hops I just used for my Honey Amarillo IPA. and I am looking forward to my next brew, EKG all the way BABY!!!
Cheers
JJ

Great work Jaybird! A testimonial from a Beer-Gearhead like Bobby M speaks volumes. If and when I build a new system I know where to go for the false bottom.

Bobby_M said:

So far so good. It takes 3.5 quarts or .875 gallons to reach the false bottom. I suppose I have to add this amount to my normal strike volume?

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In my experience, the answer is Exactly. My system is much simpler and smaller. I have about 2 quarts under the false bottom and usually just multiply the grain bill by 1.25, add a half gallon and then round to the closest half gallon. I use the grain bill X 1.25 as the mash-in volume for strike temp calculations.

Looks like that false bottom will work well in a sanke mash tun.
Were there any special requirements to dome the false bottom to fit in the bottom of the sanke? The false bottom probably helps to avoid scorching of the grains in a direct fired mash tun.

I also see you drilled the thermometer guards beside your pickup tube.
Ingenious

Cheers
BeerCanuck

Yeah, I feel a lot better about cranking up this 80Kbtu burner when there's a buffer of 1 gallon of wort beneath the grain. I'm done mashing and sparging right now and it worked out well. It took a long recirculation to get the wort clear, but I can live with that. The 15" FB fits perfectly against the bottom, just where it starts to curve. The pickup tube places downward pressure to keep grain from sneaking around the edge.

good job man, looks great!

The verdict on the additional mash liquor (ended up at 1.33 qt/lb on this batch) is a 3-4% drop in efficiency. I guess I can live with that (87%).

Hay Bobby 87% that sounds killer!!! Now just keep it up..I build all my recipes on 85% and get 87+% most of the time
Cheers
JJ

Bobby_M said:

I used the spring out of the sanke's valve to keep upward pressure on the perf sheet just in case the grain gets a little too heavy.

so far so good. It takes 3.5 quarts or .875 gallons to reach the false bottom. I suppose I have to add this amount to my normal strike volume?

Click to expand...

I may be wrong but wouldnt the amount of wort left behind be below the false bottom? Because what would be left would be when the syphon is broken when the level is below the pickup tube.

The siphon doesn't break until it hits those slots cut in the very bottom of the siphon tube, maybe leaving a pint behind. I should say though that once you're reaching the tail end of the runoff, you have to slow the pump down or shut it off completely for 5 minutes to let more wort trickle down below the false bottom. The more I think of this, the more the setup lends itself to a fly sparge, especially since stirring in a sanke isn't exactly easy.

IF you recirculate throughout the entire mash doesn't the dead space becomes negligible?

Bobby_M said:

The siphon doesn't break until it hits those slots cut in the very bottom of the siphon tube, maybe leaving a pint behind. I should say though that once you're reaching the tail end of the runoff, you have to slow the pump down or shut it off completely for 5 minutes to let more wort trickle down below the false bottom. The more I think of this, the more the setup lends itself to a fly sparge, especially since stirring in a sanke isn't exactly easy.

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Brother if you fly sparge you'll reach 90% easy.
JJ

Do you disassemble the false bottom and remove it when you clean up? I like the idea of slitting the keg to insert the screen. I would like to weld up the cuts after to stiffen the keg, but that would end removing the screen. Looks good by the way! SWMBO hates this site, everytime I log on she knows a new project is on the way.

you could turn the FB sideways and scrub it in the keggle after removing the pickup tube. No reason why you would have to take it out if you don't mind the slight hassle of cleaning it on the inside.

Maybe you can get some scrap SS and some SS bolts and bolt on a piece in case you ever do want to pull it out, though, rather than welding... Just measure, drill, and have it sized before you slit, or you'll never get it round enough again to make adding the pieces on worth it.

Looks great Bobby. For those interested, I hinged mine to avoid cutting slits in the keg. It was easy and makes getting the FB in and out a breeze. I used brass hinges and SS bolts, and I support the middle with some SS bolts as "legs". I haven't brewed with it yet. We've got a brew day scheduled in a few weeks though. I'll report back on how it works, but I expect it to be much better than the little 9" one I used previously.

A few pics.

I love what you all have done with the false bottoms. I am stoked to hear everyone likes them. I have put together a few welded stainless hinged ones. I still have a few available if anyone wants one. Here is a pict of mine w/ a solid hinge.
Great work Bobby and Lil' Sparky!!! I love to see a plan come together! You guys a very talented with your DIY projects.
JJ

sparky, is that same keggle your kettle? Looks like a return-to-make-a-whirlpool near the top.

I have the same return in both the kettle and MLT. I use it to recirculate the mash in the MLT.

I like the use of the spring...but I'm confused why it is where it is. If it was above the false bottom, wouldn't it help it stay pushed to the bottom, sealing the sides? Are you using it in place of the legs on Lil' Sparky's? Jaybird, where does your pickup tube go? Is that long hinge SS? This is a great looking thread....

TerapinChef said:

I like the use of the spring...but I'm confused why it is where it is. If it was above the false bottom, wouldn't it help it stay pushed to the bottom, sealing the sides? Are you using it in place of the legs on Lil' Sparky's? Jaybird, where does your pickup tube go? Is that long hinge SS? This is a great looking thread....

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I don't use a pickup tube. I drain directly out of the bottom of my MLT on my system, and yes it's solid stainless.
Cheers
JJ

TerapinChef said:

I like the use of the spring...but I'm confused why it is where it is. If it was above the false bottom, wouldn't it help it stay pushed to the bottom, sealing the sides? Are you using it in place of the legs on Lil' Sparky's? Jaybird, where does your pickup tube go? Is that long hinge SS? This is a great looking thread....

Click to expand...

I think you might be mixing pictures. For mine, the copper elbow applies the upward stop or applies downward pressure which you need no matter how you get it done. The spring underneath just compresses between the bottom of the keg and the false bottom to hold some upward pressure to keep the bottom from doming. It's probably not necessary though.

Jaybird said:

I don't use a pickup tube. I drain directly out of the bottom of my MLT on my system, and yes it's solid stainless.
Cheers
JJ

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I'm confused...I'm going to need to see a picture...is your MLT not direct fired?

TerapinChef said:

I'm confused...I'm going to need to see a picture...is your MLT not direct fired?

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I installed a center drain on my MLT and it is sitting on a tippy dump system that I built. I can direct fire my MLT but I rarely do. I have my system dialed so that I mash w/ the correct amount of correct temp water and away I go. If I want to do a step mash I run my mash into my boil kettle, heat and then back to my MLT.
A decoction is a whole different story. I have an extra 5 gallon pot for my decoction.
Cheers
JJ

I'm still not sure I understand, but I think I like it...I"m pending sale on three kegs so I might be looking for one or two in the near future.

TerapinChef said:

I'm still not sure I understand, but I think I like it...I"m pending sale on three kegs so I might be looking for one or two in the near future.

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Just look at my picts, I am sure there is a picture of my tippy dump and bottom drain.