DariusFresh
Active Member
sorry to post a million times. do you have a decent cycle time? i just don't wanna short cycle the compressor.
Converting the Frigidaire 7.2 cu ft Chest Freezer
- Thread starter Quaffer
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It probably kicks on once every 45 minutes.
DariusFresh
Active Member
Working getting it dialed in now. Thanks!
DariusFresh
Active Member
For some reason, my fridge either sits at 35 degrees or 45 degrees. Looks like I'll be getting a live temp controller after all. At least it looks cool!
There is no reason why it should be fluctuating so much. Are you checking the ambient temperature or the temperature in a glass of water? I have very consistent temps on my glass of water/brew.
pola0502ds
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Can anyone help me out with the above question?
DariusFresh
Active Member
It's holding steady. The problem is when I turn the fine adjustment screw to warm it up a bit, it starts holding the temp of my water like 5-10 degrees warmer, just from a fraction of an inch turn. Maybe I'll try to make some more fine adjustments using the coarse adjustment screw.
If you do it the way described above, the kegs will eventually equilibrate to whatever volumes of CO2 your "serving pressure" will maintain. Serving pressure should be set to maintain the desired volumes of CO2, so you would need different pressures to keep two beers at the same temperature but different volumes of CO2. See Bobby M's sticky in the kegging forum for a good discussion: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/keg-force-carbing-methods-illustrated-73328/
drummermattie02
Active Member
*deleted
BiteSize
Active Member
First off, THANKS SO MUCH to everyone who posted their builds and especially to Quaffer for the inspiration!!
Here is my take on the 7.2 Frigidaire Keezer. After weeks of work, a bit at a time, the project is finished. Had a pretty rough start with getting an acceptable freezer from Lowes in the first place. It took three attempts before I got a freezer that wasn't totally ruined with dents all over the place. I know I am not the only one to suffer this misfortune. Third time is a charm I suppose. With the two week waiting period between each freezer, the project got started about 6 weeks behind schedule!
The important thing is that it is completed in time for my wedding this coming Saturday(SWMBO approved). I will be serving up a RyePA, Wheaten Pils, and an American Brown Ale for the reception.
Anyway, here are some pictures of the final product. Thanks again to everyone for posting! Cheers!
Here is my take on the 7.2 Frigidaire Keezer. After weeks of work, a bit at a time, the project is finished. Had a pretty rough start with getting an acceptable freezer from Lowes in the first place. It took three attempts before I got a freezer that wasn't totally ruined with dents all over the place. I know I am not the only one to suffer this misfortune. Third time is a charm I suppose. With the two week waiting period between each freezer, the project got started about 6 weeks behind schedule!
The important thing is that it is completed in time for my wedding this coming Saturday(SWMBO approved). I will be serving up a RyePA, Wheaten Pils, and an American Brown Ale for the reception.
Anyway, here are some pictures of the final product. Thanks again to everyone for posting! Cheers!
pola0502ds
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Your shanks are super long, gonna be a pain to take out the black or green keg
BiteSize
Active Member
No worries... I can manage. They're pretty easy to move once they are empty. The angle on that shot makes it look worse than it really is.
Boleslaus
Well-Known Member
Wanted to thank the OP for this thread. Finished mine about 3 weeks ago and have 3 beers on tap at the moment.
pola0502ds
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So I followed this thread to build my keezer and I have a few questions. Some may not be very related to building this keezer but since I got my info here, I figured I would post the questions.
What is everyones serving pressure? I have mine set at 12 but I have read some people have theirs at 8 psi. If it's at 8 psi then doesn't that mean their beer is not going to be as carbed as a beer set at 12 psi? I have had my beers at 12psi for a few weeks after force carbing and I have a few questions.
-After you pour a beer that has about 2" of head in a (1) pint glass, should i still see a bunch of bubbles coming up from the bottom or did all the co2 come out of the beer which is now foam? I ask because every beer I pour it seems like I don't see any bubbles but it tastes like it is carbed.
-For some reason I am just starting to get foaming problems. Never before did I have this issue and I don't know what changed. Im wondering if my regulator is not working right. It might say 12psi but maybe it's output is a lot higher? When i pour a glass of my APA I get about 2-3 inches of foam. The foam is thick and very creamy, unlike any beer I have ever had. I mean that in a good way.
-The beer that sits in the beer line coming from the keg to the shank, do most people dump the first few onces after each day or is there nothing wrong with drinking it? Will the beer in that line still be carbonated?
-Say you just kegged your beer but you know it needs to age and carbonate, should I take off the disconnect for the beer side? Or does everyone just leave it on? I'm thinking I should leave it on so there is less chance for a bacteria to form on the post of the keg and somehow get into the beer?
-What temp does everyone keep their kegerator at? I keep mine at 45 for all beers. I find that at this temp the beer is not to cold not to warm but i wonder if because of this high temp I am getting foaming problems?
-Being set at 45 degrees, is that a temperature that will not allow bacteria to grow?
-I keg in 5 gallon kegs but I just got a 2.5 gallon keg that I plan to use to bring to parties. If the beer is already in a 5 gallon keg, is there a way to transfer it to 2.5? Is this not even recommended?
Spec's on my kegerator:
4 taps - 1 perlick 525 and 3 regular chrome faucets
5 feet of 3/16 beer hose on each tap
5/16 dia co2 hose
dual gage regulator
a 3 way manifold and a 2 way manifold
Lovejoy temp controller
What is everyones serving pressure? I have mine set at 12 but I have read some people have theirs at 8 psi. If it's at 8 psi then doesn't that mean their beer is not going to be as carbed as a beer set at 12 psi? I have had my beers at 12psi for a few weeks after force carbing and I have a few questions.
-After you pour a beer that has about 2" of head in a (1) pint glass, should i still see a bunch of bubbles coming up from the bottom or did all the co2 come out of the beer which is now foam? I ask because every beer I pour it seems like I don't see any bubbles but it tastes like it is carbed.
-For some reason I am just starting to get foaming problems. Never before did I have this issue and I don't know what changed. Im wondering if my regulator is not working right. It might say 12psi but maybe it's output is a lot higher? When i pour a glass of my APA I get about 2-3 inches of foam. The foam is thick and very creamy, unlike any beer I have ever had. I mean that in a good way.
-The beer that sits in the beer line coming from the keg to the shank, do most people dump the first few onces after each day or is there nothing wrong with drinking it? Will the beer in that line still be carbonated?
-Say you just kegged your beer but you know it needs to age and carbonate, should I take off the disconnect for the beer side? Or does everyone just leave it on? I'm thinking I should leave it on so there is less chance for a bacteria to form on the post of the keg and somehow get into the beer?
-What temp does everyone keep their kegerator at? I keep mine at 45 for all beers. I find that at this temp the beer is not to cold not to warm but i wonder if because of this high temp I am getting foaming problems?
-Being set at 45 degrees, is that a temperature that will not allow bacteria to grow?
-I keg in 5 gallon kegs but I just got a 2.5 gallon keg that I plan to use to bring to parties. If the beer is already in a 5 gallon keg, is there a way to transfer it to 2.5? Is this not even recommended?
Spec's on my kegerator:
4 taps - 1 perlick 525 and 3 regular chrome faucets
5 feet of 3/16 beer hose on each tap
5/16 dia co2 hose
dual gage regulator
a 3 way manifold and a 2 way manifold
Lovejoy temp controller
windycity_brew
New Member
It seems that your beer lines are to short. I usually have 10-12psi per line and I run 8ft of beer line. A few I ran at 10ft. I don't have any foam issues and have the same keezer. I'd try that first
OP
OP
Quaffer
Well-Known Member
Agreed, it is the line length.
I have my lines at 10 feet, pressure at 10-12 psi, and temperature at 38°F. First glass of the day has more foam, 2-3", than the following. At the end of the keg there is a little more foam than in the beginning.
Beer, like all perishable food, keep better at lower temperatures. Proper fridge temperature is about 39-40°F or 4°C. This keeps bacterial growth to a minimum.
Beer also carbonates more at lower temperature with the pressure held the same. I usually just sip a little on the cold beer and let it warm up in the glass. It does not take long for it to warm up to the perfect zone. Using a room temperature rather than chilled glass helps too.
OP
OP
Quaffer
Well-Known Member
Nicely done! And just in time for your wedding! Congratulations on both accounts, wedding of course being #1.
BiteSize
Active Member
Had my wedding last night, and the brews and keezer were a smashing success! Now I just have to wait another week for my ESB to finish fermenting to get some more beer in the lines.
I took out all the guts of the system to move it back to my house and clean it out. First time I've had it empty in a few weeks, and trying to figure out a good way to clean out the bottom. There is some beer/moisture in the cracks of the interior and wondering if anyone has some cleaning tip or tricks for reaching down in there to comfortably clean the crevasses.
I took out all the guts of the system to move it back to my house and clean it out. First time I've had it empty in a few weeks, and trying to figure out a good way to clean out the bottom. There is some beer/moisture in the cracks of the interior and wondering if anyone has some cleaning tip or tricks for reaching down in there to comfortably clean the crevasses.
BiteSize
Active Member
Well, I suppose you don't have to clean it, but I would rather keep mold and mildew from taking over the keezer.
I was sort of joking. Lol. I haven't completely emptied mine out yet because I don't want to jostle around the others kegs when one finished up. When I take a keg out I dry the condensation up around the area. I've used a towel wrapped on a broom
OP
OP
Quaffer
Well-Known Member
The moisture can be a problem if it is allowed to collect for too long. The bottom will eventually start to rust. I have two ways to clean it up. If the kegerator is empty I wrap a small towel around a Swiffer mop. If I have kegs in there I attach the towel at the end of a claw pick-up tool and dab it around the kegs.
Lately I have installed a DampRid Moisture Absorber hanging from one of the gas manifolds. It is helping, but there is still some moisture on the bottom. Got to get after it with a towel still.
Recently got my hands on 4 pin lock 5 gallon kegs and I am trying to find out the best way to make a kegerator. I am leaning towards this freezer, and I was wondering how many 9.25" (short and squat ones) diameter kegs you could fit in there. And how heavy is it?
BiteSize
Active Member
Not sure about the pin locks, but fairly confident that you will be able to fit 5 in there if you so desire. If you build a collar, and have the CO2 tank mounted outside of the freezer, there should be plenty of room for the kegs. I have three ball locks on the floor, but there is room to spare. I also have my PVC tube with my fan mounted placed on the floor.
As far as the weight, that depends on many factors. How many full kegs are inside, how large and dense is the wood for your collar, etc.? I will say that mine was pretty damn heavy when I was transporting it to my wedding. That was with three full kegs, my 2x8x10 Poplar collar, as well as the CO2 tank/regulator/ and gas/beer lines. I would suggest getting the sturdiest casters you can find/afford. It rolls easily on hard surfaces and carpets, but the softer and larger the carpet, the harder it is to move around. It's totally manageable, and totally worth it. Go ahead, build yourself one of these... you won't regret it. Good luck! Cheers!
2puttbird
Well-Known Member
SkiNuke said:
9.25 is the same size as a commercial sixtel, I believe, in which case I fear you will only be able to get two on the floor, according to my paper circles ... but others have gotten three 9" kegs on the floor, so it's close
Well when I measured them I think they actually were just barely over 9 inches (rounded up to 9 and a quarter), whatever a standard corny pin lock keg would be. But if I can only fit 2 in there I might need to look for a better alternative, because I don't want a ton of wasted space.
And as for weight I was thinking more unloaded. Could I get my girlfriend to help me move it up a flight of stairs or should I get a buddy of mine to help?
And as for weight I was thinking more unloaded. Could I get my girlfriend to help me move it up a flight of stairs or should I get a buddy of mine to help?
BiteSize
Active Member
You and your girlfriend will probably be able to manage. The weight isn't too bad, it is quite bulky obviously. I had to move it up some stairs, but had my beast of a brother around to help. Good luck!
2puttbird
Well-Known Member
SkiNuke said:
There are picks of this freezer with 3 cornies on the floor, maybe in the big freezer thread.
And empty, it's a piece of cake. I handled it by myself with a 2-wheel cart and a strap, so you and your girlfriend will be fine ,but be a nice guy and take the end with the compressor ;-)
FWIW, Zinsser and Varathane are both made by Rust-oleum, and Varathane has a color called Cabernet, if you need touch-ups or anything
TheBusterBrew
Member
Thanks Quaffer for the great thread. I attempted to build my own kegerator as illustrated. Only a few finishing touches remain. However, I was so excited to have a kegerator in the house I've been using it ever since I verified the electric wiring was functional. Two five gallon kegs on tap and room to lager or room for cases of bottled brew. Thanks!
mikelikesit2000
Well-Known Member
Very nice job. Thinking about getting rid of the "beer refrigerator" and doing this. I think it looks nicer.
greatschmaltez
Well-Known Member
What type of screws are you using to reattach the lid to the collar?
Wanted to also thank Quaffer for the original post, like so many here, this has been my inspiration for building a keezer... And the clean design is the only reason my wife will let me have it in the house.
Wanted to also thank Quaffer for the original post, like so many here, this has been my inspiration for building a keezer... And the clean design is the only reason my wife will let me have it in the house.
Personally I used heavy duty Velcro to hold mine on... May not be as strong, but, it holds really well and in the event I need to remove it, there is no real damage to the freezer..... Also the silicone sealant adds some additional strength.... I haven't had any issues yet and had a bunch of drunk ******** at the house for Halloween with no issues
bourgeoisbee
Well-Known Member
I just used the screws that originally attached the lid to the freezer. Silicone the collar to the freezer and then screw into the wood of the collar to attach the lid. I used exterior wood screws to attach my valves inside the collar.
greatschmaltez
Well-Known Member
What specific adhesive/caulking product did you use to attach the collar to the freezer?
bourgeoisbee
Well-Known Member
I just used regular clear silicone bathroom caulk. On the top of the freezer I put done a solid bead where the middle of the wood would sit and then where the middle of the foam would sit and placed it on. I put some weight on it to let it set overnight and then I sealed up the inside between the foam and the freezer just to be sure it was an airtight seal. You can use liquid nails or something like that to secure the wood collar to the freezer, but the caulk has been more than strong enough for me.
TheBusterBrew
Member
I made use of a basic construction adhesive compound between the base of the collar and the freezer. Then I used silicon to seal any gaps in the foam insulation as well as around the base of the collar.
OP
OP
Quaffer
Well-Known Member
I used adhesive caulking from Lowes/HD, I don't remember the brand any more. Any adhesive caulking would do as well.
