Ew, look at my RIMS element

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ikonis

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I pulled it out today after I don't know how many batches. Surprisingly, it was still working!

What's weird is I always run pbw and saniclean through it for about an hour after each brew.

It looks to be rectorseal and caramelized sugars all over the element.

image-2538999511.jpg
 
hmmm, i guess thats why people prefer tri-clamp rims tubes...easy to dissemble and clean after each use. Personally, thats why I prefer herms over rims...

I bet a good soak and scrub will bring it back
 
Oh, I'd prefer a tri-clamp tube. But not until I "need" to upgrade the current tube. But yes, a hot oxyclean soak took off all the crud. That is what didn't just flake off anyways.
 
Thats a similar reason why I don't have a plate chiller. I can only imagine what one would look like if cut apart after many batches.
 
I dunno. I imagine the plate chiller looks like the inside of the rims tube itself. My tube was pristine except for the element itself. Shouldn't be much caramelizing going on in a plate chiller.
 
I dunno. I imagine the plate chiller looks like the inside of the rims tube itself. My tube was pristine except for the element itself. Shouldn't be much caramelizing going on in a plate chiller.

I was thinking about old dried up hops that are stuck to the plates and corners.
 
I was thinking about old dried up hops that are stuck to the plates and corners.

Oh, well, backflushing, pbw and acid takes care of that. I am pretty sure that all caked up when I neglected to turn off the element when I turned the pump off.
 
Acid Number 5 is the product typically used by brewers. There is also Acid Number 6 which I believe is used in a CO2 environment.
 
Is Acid #5 safe on the heater elements, or only on stainless? I have two of the ultra low density incoloy elements: one in the BK and one in a RIMS element. The RIMS element gets fairly nasty after a few brews, and recirculating PBW doesn't seem to touch it. Also, what about using caustic on the elements- I have a pound of pure sodium hydroxide that I have been considering running through the system.

And, how do you dispose of Acid #5 once you are done with it?

Klaus
 
The RIMS element gets fairly nasty after a few brews, and recirculating PBW doesn't seem to touch it. Also, what about using caustic on the elements

PBW *is* caustic.

Have you tried letting the element soak for a while with the PBW solution filling everything? The directions for PBW are to soak overnight and then rinse the next day.
 
Walker said:
PBW *is* caustic.

Have you tried letting the element soak for a while with the PBW solution filling everything? The directions for PBW are to soak overnight and then rinse the next day.

I didn't think that PBW was a caustic cleaner. I thought they have always touted it as a replacement for caustic soda cleaners which would previously be used by breweries. Maybe I'm wrong though...

I heat some water to about 175, mix in my PBW, then recirculate through my pumps and system for about 30 minutes. I thought I had heard on the brewing network segment with Chris Talley from Five Star that you do need to be careful with copper and aluminum, and that soaking is not advised. Apparently the PBW can really go after those metals when something like an overnight soak is used.

Matt
 
My apologies. You are correct... PBW is NOT caustic.

I never heard the BN segment, but every set of instructions I am finding say that it is safe for use on soft metals and an overnight soak is OK.

But... if the guy from 5 star said not to do it, then I would be inclined to believe him.

I've never done an overnight soak of anything other than my stainless kettles. I've done an hour or two with the stuff inside of my copper and then drained it out and left the kettles to soak overnight.
 
PBW *is* caustic.

Have you tried letting the element soak for a while with the PBW solution filling everything? The directions for PBW are to soak overnight and then rinse the next day.

I've never gotten my element super clean that way. After a PBW circulation, it's still all crusty. Granted, a green scrubbie takes all of that gunk off.
 
The segment on the BN with Five Star was WAY back in like 2006 so I could be making that soaking part up haha.

I'd try a little bit longer of a soak like Walker says and see if that helps you clean up the element on a more regular basis.

Matt
 
I had my first RIMS brew day last weekend and with the exception of my pump acting up everything ran smoothly. After seeing another post about the element gunk I decided to open mine up last night and take a look at the element. I have a ULWD, the one that folds over from plumbingsupply.com I was surprised to see it only had a fine layer of white build up, that wiped off with a wet towell. I was actually pretty happy about that. On the brew day when I ran my sparge water I ran it through the RIMS tube (With the element off) as well, so maybe this helped it? Does anybody elese run there sparge water through the tube as well? I would imagine so.

As far as cleaning the tube and element went at the end of the brew session I just ran hot water and then iodophor through it. Hopefully I can get away with sticking to this cleaning schedule and only have to take it apart every other brew.
 
I run PBW through mine for almost an hour just to get the PBW up to 170 which they say is the ideal cleaning temperature for that product.

Linc
 
I pulled it out today after I don't know how many batches. Surprisingly, it was still working!

What's weird is I always run pbw and saniclean through it for about an hour after each brew.

It looks to be rectorseal and caramelized sugars all over the element.

I have been following Trigger's thread about gunk on the element, so I remove it after each brew. My tube is made from 1.5" ss fittings (like yours I believe), and it is easy to take apart. The trick is to make the tube easy to remove from the structure.

So far my RIMS heater has had what looks like sloppy oat meal on it after circulating OxiClean and heating for 30 minutes. The gunk has come off easily with a dish brush and nothing seems to have stuck to the element though.
 
I have been following Trigger's thread about gunk on the element, so I remove it after each brew. My tube is made from 1.5" ss fittings (like yours I believe), and it is easy to take apart. The trick is to make the tube easy to remove from the structure.

So far my RIMS heater has had what looks like sloppy oat meal on it after circulating OxiClean and heating for 30 minutes. The gunk has come off easily with a dish brush and nothing seems to have stuck to the element though.

I've since added some triclamp fittings for easy removal
 
I've since added some triclamp fittings for easy removal

Did you add the triclamp fittings to your 1 1/2" pipe? I was thinking about doing this as well. Just where the element screws into the "T" fitting.
 
Did you add the triclamp fittings to your 1 1/2" pipe? I was thinking about doing this as well. Just where the element screws into the "T" fitting.

Yup. Added a 1.5" mnpt to 1.5" tc fitting on the tube. And a 1" fnpt to 1.5" tc on the element. Then attached the element like kal with a single gang electrical box
 
Yup. Added a 1.5" mnpt to 1.5" tc fitting on the tube. And a 1" fnpt to 1.5" tc on the element. Then attached the element like kal with a single gang electrical box

Would you mind throwing up a picture when you get a chance. Thanks man. I was looking at the triclamp fitting for elements from brewers hardware and that thing looks slick. But with the 1.5" mnpt to 1.5" triclamp plus this I would be out another $100.00
 
I am having a little rust form on the base of my element. None what-so-ever on the element prongs. Can I leave this little bit of rust on the base of the element and not have any problems or should I find a way to remove it. That brings up my next question, how do you remove the rust?
 
Also, what about using caustic on the elements- I have a pound of pure sodium hydroxide that I have been considering running through the system.
FWIW, I have a couple of heated caustic tanks at work and we use the Incoloy elements in them. They last for many years as long as you don't let the salts build-up too much and cover them up (don't ask how I know this;)), but for you this shouldn't be a problem (the salts build-up from frequent cooling/heating over the course of many months).
 
That image should put some concern out there about the use of plate chillers. There are a bazillion spots inside it that have very low flow with eddy currents. Because of that, they are difficult to completely clean. IMHO.

I've posted a similar cutaway image before:

Plate-Chiller_cutaway.jpg


I'm a firm believer in immersion & counter flow chillers.

P-J
 
Wow, if the therminator didn't have a good track record and i seen this picture before i bought it, I never would have. Like stated above, there are way to many places for trub to get stuck in and never removed.
 
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