a scratch may harbor a bad bug if your sanitation is crap but then if your sanitation is crap scratches are the least of your worries. once i got into brewing sour beers i decided to use the same equipment to process/ferment all of my beer, sour or not. the idea is to see if proper sanitation will prevent any cross contamination from my better bottles and buckets. nothing yet, but we shall see...
Possible misinformation about plastic fermentation buckets
- Thread starter jarrodaden
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Huh? I would never buy aluminum pots or pans. Way too reactive. Stainless steel for life (with a heat spreader).
You should read these stickies:https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/vs-pro-con-analysis-109318/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/faq-aluminum-pots-boil-kettles-49449/
lowtones84
Well-Known Member
I ferment in both and like both just fine. And while you can ferment in both, it's really not all the same. I, and many others have never had oxygen issues in HDPE buckets, but from all information I've seen it -is- oxygen permeable. I remembered reading about this in wild brews. HDPE buckets expose beer to more oxygen than even small (5-10 gallon) wooden barrels.
P. 220 Wild Brews: (a few omitted to keep size down.)
Rodenbach Wooden Tun (large) 5,280 (gallons) 0.53 (o2 cc/L/year)
Wine Barrel 79.2 (g) 8.5 (...)
Homebrew Barrel 10.6 (g) 23 (...)
Homebrew HDPE Bucket 5.3 (g) 220 (...)
Glass Carboy w/ Silicone Stopper 5.3 (g) 17 (...)
Glass Carboy w/ Wooden Stopper 20 (g) 0.10
I'm not hating on buckets by any means. For the amount of time our homebrew sits in buckets, there's obviously nothing wrong with it, or thousands of people wouldn't use them. But if you're doing a sour or something, those numbers above are by year. I know people have done sours in buckets too, just saying it's probably not the best option, right? I'm just already tired of this debate after not even being here for a year (perhaps I should just ignore these threads
). All fermentation vessels have their merits and flaws, or else they wouldn't exist.
Happy brewing and good luck, whatever you use!
P. 220 Wild Brews: (a few omitted to keep size down.)
Rodenbach Wooden Tun (large) 5,280 (gallons) 0.53 (o2 cc/L/year)
Wine Barrel 79.2 (g) 8.5 (...)
Homebrew Barrel 10.6 (g) 23 (...)
Homebrew HDPE Bucket 5.3 (g) 220 (...)
Glass Carboy w/ Silicone Stopper 5.3 (g) 17 (...)
Glass Carboy w/ Wooden Stopper 20 (g) 0.10
I'm not hating on buckets by any means. For the amount of time our homebrew sits in buckets, there's obviously nothing wrong with it, or thousands of people wouldn't use them. But if you're doing a sour or something, those numbers above are by year. I know people have done sours in buckets too, just saying it's probably not the best option, right? I'm just already tired of this debate after not even being here for a year (perhaps I should just ignore these threads
). All fermentation vessels have their merits and flaws, or else they wouldn't exist.Happy brewing and good luck, whatever you use!
Indeed. One can clearly tell a broken carboy by the severed nerves, sliced tendons, and diminished motor function in the hand of the user.
jarrodaden
Well-Known Member
I didn't really set out to start the great carboy vs bucket debate.
What I was really trying to point out is that fact that an s shaped airlock has a second function from the standpoint that it is basically a manometer indicating the pressure difference between the inside and outside of the fermenter. Even if you don't see bubbles while staring impatiently at it, it can still tell you if the wort has been off gassing since you sealed the fermenter.
For those of you using buckets, this can be a reassurance of sorts to overcome the fact that you can't see without removing the lid.
What I was really trying to point out is that fact that an s shaped airlock has a second function from the standpoint that it is basically a manometer indicating the pressure difference between the inside and outside of the fermenter. Even if you don't see bubbles while staring impatiently at it, it can still tell you if the wort has been off gassing since you sealed the fermenter.
For those of you using buckets, this can be a reassurance of sorts to overcome the fact that you can't see without removing the lid.
Can't believe no one answered this yet: Ski Patrol!
I had to think for a good bit before the guy punching himself in the face with his puppets finally clearly came to me. I wonder how bad the movie really is... Haven't seen it since I was a kid, and that always skews ones memory.
It amazes me how many people spell hydrometer like: airlock.
They are not the same an airlock indicates gas exchange. While gas exchange is ONE aspect of fermentation it is UNRELIABLE and certainly not a beat all indicator. MANY times I have had a bucket/carboy with the airlock still bubbling well after fermentation is completed due to the absorbed CO2 in suspension falling out. I have also had a still airlock while the gravity is still slowly dropping. You know when the fermentation is complete by 2 hydro sample readings that are the same, 24 hours apart.
For those folks interested, I recently saw in my Home Depot (Yours may not carry these) a translucent 5 gallon bucket (it has a black comfort foam handle), they also had matching lids! These lids are worth the money alone as they are SO much easier to snap on and off. Being translucent you can ALMOST see inside. I am sure you could see the krausen well enough to sate curiosity. The downside is you can only ferment 4ish gallons in them but they are about 1/3 the cost of an Ale Pail or the like. If it was me and I was new, I would be ALL OVER these.
I now return you to the regularly semi-derailed thread.
Yeah, that's my bottling bucket actually. It's the Leaktite translucent 5 gallon bucket with graduations.
The problem is it is only a hair bigger than 5 gallons. One of the printings on it says the 5 gallon mark is the third band down from the top (the top of the thick band of plastic where the handle fits in.
Yeah, that's my bottling bucket actually. It's the Leaktite translucent 5 gallon bucket with graduations.
The problem is it is only a hair bigger than 5 gallons. One of the printings on it says the 5 gallon mark is the third band down from the top (the top of the thick band of plastic where the handle fits in.
I've been meaning to get a pair of containers for 2.5 gallon batches so I can split recipes and try different yeasts or dry hop experiments and these look like a perfect solution. Certainly better than the $55 for a pair of short carboys.
How many batches does it take before you just don't feel like staring at it? 6?
I usually pitch yeast and place in the ferm chamber and then check for fermentation the next day. Once I know it's started, I barely glance at the thing until I think it's time to keg.
I usually pitch yeast and place in the ferm chamber and then check for fermentation the next day. Once I know it's started, I barely glance at the thing until I think it's time to keg.
pgrebus
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I have no idea what you guys are doing with your glass carboys. I've never had one break or chip. And why, when they break, are they exploding glass into your tendons?
I agree. I know they are dangerous and really go out of my way to never lift them full. When I do have to move them, I use a milk crate and should I start to fall or slip I have already planned in my mind to "toss it clear" of me if I have to.
People think they can juggle these things full and through lack of proper safety precautions end up hurting themselves, some of the injuries are SCARY bad. There are even stories of these things just cracking/breaking for no reason. (I believe the glass was tempered from years of washing it in hot water but that is my own theory.)
FWIW I never have, nor ever will own a Better Bottle. I hear good things about them and am in no way trying to freak anyone out about glass. My mother has had some of her glass carboys for over 15 years an has never broken one. She has 9 I think...
Everything I have posted here has been thoroughly discussed and talked about in other threads, to the point of nausea. If you are interested in stories or the this vs that check out those threads and search, it is NOT hard to find the info.
Trying once again to get this Casey Jonesed thread back on track... In case we forgot, it was about dispelling bad info around using plastic buckets...
and GO!
pgrebus
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Trying once again to get this Casey Jonesed thread back on track... In case we forgot, it was about dispelling bad info around using plastic buckets...
and GO!
What I love most about plastic buckets - they're cheap. Wal-Marts with bakeries sell used HDPE 5 gallon buckets for $2, with lids. They're previously full of cake icing, so they are a little flowery smelling, but after a good cleaning, they're ready to go. And at $2 per fermenter...
+1
My stainless steel pot has a layer of tin in an extra-thick base. It's a 5 gallon general use stainless steel pot, not a specialized brewing kettle.
I'm somewhat surprised that the brewing stainless steel pots don't have (or at least don't advertise) a metal layer to conduct heat in the base, as this is the one flaw of stainless steel next to price. I guess brewing equipment is expensive enough as it is. Or maybe I have not noticed.
So I can use a plain paint plastic bucket from lowes to use as a primary bucket???
The ones at Lowes you can use should be marked "Food Grade", the ones in Home Depot are not. Never use a Lowes grey and blue bucket or an orange "Homer" bucket, that would be tragically BAD. Other than that check the bottom for the HDPE number but "Yes" you sure can use those white or translucent buckets and lids to ferment in.
Pickle and rootbeer are FOR-EV-A... there is no way to stop the flavor from scalping into your beer.
Should point out that there is nothing wrong with using a Homer bucket for Star-San, grains, Oxyclean, or anything like that.
Sorry but the one thing that can't be gotten out of buckets to use them for brewing is pickles....I don't think you'll find one success story in all these threads. The pickling brine penertrates way too deep into the plastic.
And probably the olives as well.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/pickle-bucket-173350/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/pickle-buckets-144485/?highlight=pickle
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/pickle-taste-bourbon-stout-132670/?highlight=pickle
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/pickle-bucket-grist-104109/?highlight=pickle
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/pickle-bucket-85010/?highlight=pickle
As all the above threads have shown, even multiple soakings of oxyclean won't work....If it were that easy there wouldn't be so many threads.
As much as I am all for scrounging, recycling and repurposing, and finding free stuff for our hobby. I have to say pickle buckets really just need to be passed by. Get yourself some frosting buckets, or even soy sauce buckets from the local chinese takeaway, but not anything with vinegar, it's an acid and will penetrate the bucket.
Look for frosting or soy sauce buckets, or go get white hdpe buckets from lowes or had....
I too use the orange homer cheapo buckets for soaking bottles,storing PBW solution,cleaning fermenters,all those extranious uses in brewing.
And the 3 piece airlock can be used for the manometer function mentioned. Just watch the center piece,it rides up in varying increments ime.
And some time ago,I posted how pop taught me & my older brother how to brew in a hollowed out pumpkin. You used either an airlock,or tube & balloon. You also have to coat it well with wax,& maybe set it in a pan. It'l ferment the walls of the pumkin,& get thinner & weaker as it ferments.
I prefer the safety of plastic,but you do have to be careful not to use anything abrasive when cleaning it. So I use my cleaning wand hooked to the tap to blast it as clean as I can. Then fill with PBW solution & soak for a week. Lightly scrub with bottle brush or soft towel & rinse well/dry. I've never had a single infection by being thorough.
And the 3 piece airlock can be used for the manometer function mentioned. Just watch the center piece,it rides up in varying increments ime.
And some time ago,I posted how pop taught me & my older brother how to brew in a hollowed out pumpkin. You used either an airlock,or tube & balloon. You also have to coat it well with wax,& maybe set it in a pan. It'l ferment the walls of the pumkin,& get thinner & weaker as it ferments.
I prefer the safety of plastic,but you do have to be careful not to use anything abrasive when cleaning it. So I use my cleaning wand hooked to the tap to blast it as clean as I can. Then fill with PBW solution & soak for a week. Lightly scrub with bottle brush or soft towel & rinse well/dry. I've never had a single infection by being thorough.
Yeah,looking back on how it turned out,it'd be perfect to mix with a wheat beer. Kind of a hazy orange clear color. Nice buzz...I forget the flavor,but wasn't much flavor at that.
Yeah, the pumpkin ale I brew has a healthy dose of wheat in the grain bill. Makes for a nice amber pumpkin ale. I don't, however, ferment in a pumpkin.
I might give it a shot this fall,but put it in the basement just in case,like pop did. They did it in the old days in the root celler,he said. Seems to me that's where grandma made here cherry wine.
You should! I'd love to hear how it turns out.
I was thinking of brewing a wheat beer in my ale pale,& the pumpkin hooch seperately,then blend & bottle. Flavor complexity/balance/strength might be better that way in my mind?...
I have glass Carboys and once/if those break (one already has) I will never buy another. I also use BBs because I like looking at the fermentation and they are better than glass in my opinion. However, I was at the LHBS today getting some ingredients and expecting to buy another BB which I thought would be about 25 dollars. When I realized the BBs were 37 dollars, without a care in the world, I bought a bucket for 15... Even if I were afraid that a scratch in the bucket could cause me to need to replace it, I can still buy 2 buckets for the price of 1 BB and 2 BBs for the price of 1 6.5 gallon carboy.
I really have to question that a plastic bucket would introduce more oxygen in a week or two through the plastic walls than would be introduced in the process of transferring the beer to another container.
The fermentation process has expelled/displaced all of the O2 from the primary but the secondary is currently full of O2 so unless you purge the secondary with CO2...
The fermentation process has expelled/displaced all of the O2 from the primary but the secondary is currently full of O2 so unless you purge the secondary with CO2...
Doesn't soy sauce have vinegar in it?
It's been my experience that whenever you transfer your beer to a secondary it causes enough CO2 to be released from solution to force all of the O2 out. You can test this by lighting a match and holding it directly over the mouth of the carboy - it WILL go out because of the CO2 coming out of the carboy (i.e. no more oxygen left).
I think many people worry needlessly about O2 in their secondary and don't worry near enough about the increased risk of infection every time beer is transferred to another container (which is why I haven't used a secondary for several years now). Just my $0.02
WileECoyote
Well-Known Member
In reality a fermenter is a fermenter is a fermenter.....glass, plastic, carboy, bucket, jerry can, keg, milk jug, ceramic crock, glass hurricane jar, stainless steel or plastic conicals, pet food storage vessels (vittle vaults), HD or Lowe's buckets, frosting buckets, water jugs, the old Mr Beer jug...
Revvy you didn't mention using a old Studibaker gas tank. lol
Sorry couldn't resist.
Cheers
Not enough evidently to penetrate the plastic and affect the beer like pure pickle brine does.
