**PLEASE VOTE!** The Quest for the Ultimate Portable Brewery

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Which system would you choose? V1.0 or Part Duex?

  • JerBrew V1.0 (3 Nested Kettles)

  • Part Duex (BIAB)


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Boerderij_Kabouter

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I have a good friend who is itching to get into brewing. However he lives at home and has a
small car and not much storage space. His requirements for his brewery are that it brew 10g
batches, store small, fit in his small car to come to my house and brew, and not to sacrifice
quality. He also wants to keep it to a low budget (Like us all ;)).

Here is what I have come up with... please let me know what you think.

First, I have always thought a system with nesting kettles would be awesome for a portable
brewery, so I went looking and found this:

6011_(2).jpg


That's a 15g, 10g, and 8g aluminum kettles for $174 shipped. I brought this up in another thread
and many thought this would not work for AG on 10g batches, however, just keep reading then
we'll hash out the logistics later.

Next, He needs a burner. A few people on here have used this setup to great effect and I think
it is perfect for portable breweries.

rba5_folding_double_burner.jpg


It can be had here for $179 + $45 shipping

He will also need a false bottom and some other odds and ends. All told, here is the parts list (I
did not add in a propane tank).

Parts1.bmp


........................................................

to be continued...
 
Here is how I envision this all working:

Here is the brewery in travel mode. All kettles nest, chiller in pots, and burner folded up.
Travel_Mode.bmp
\

When he gets to my house, he will unfold and un-nest the kettles and burner, then he is setup! Much easier than my setup!!!!

1. Heating the strike water and sparge water. The full volume of water will be heated to temp in the BK because the HLT is likely to small for many beers.

JerBrew_1.bmp


2. Doughing in and mashing. During the mash, the second sparge volume with be transferred to the HLT and brought back to the desired temperature. The first sparge volume is left in the BK where it should remain at the proper temperature.

JerBrew_2.bmp


3. To sparge, first the first sparge volume is added from the BK. The mash is stirred, vorlaufed, and drained back into the BK.

JerBrew_3.bmp


4. Second sparge. The second sparge volume is then added from the HLT. The mash is stirred, vorlaufed, and drained fully into the BK. All runnings should not be collected.

JerBrew_4.bmp


5. The boil is pretty standard.

JerBrew_5.bmp


6. So is chilling.

JerBrew_6.bmp


.....................................................

When I initially brought up the nested pot idea, it was shot down mainly because we could not figure out how to move the hot fluids. My solution is to use a copper (or stainless) siphon tube as shown above. It will run down the side of the MLT and under the FB. To start a siphon, he will use one of these:

11FbjnMUvSL._SL500_AA200_.jpg


A few quick pumps and he will be off to the races, and still be able to nest the pots!

............................................

Well? What do you all think? Is this a good design, or a bust?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wouldn't you need a 3rd burner for the hlt? And how will the first sparge water remain at temp?
 
A third burner would be nice, but I don't think he would need it. You would be amazed how well a large volume of water holds its own temperature. He would be using the banjo burner to keep the HLT and the BK sparge volumes at temp, but they would only have to sit for maybe 20 minutes or less unheated, so he will likely lose around 2 degrees max. It will be more lifting without the third burner but not much and it is probably worth it to him for the easy of moving around factor.
 
now granted mine is a 5g system.

hlt=4g,100cup electric coffee urn
mt=5g round cooler,soon to be 10g
bk=7.5g turkey fryer setup with drain valve
small kitchen cart will hold both mt and hlt
march pump for transfer from hlt to mt (fly sparging)
all fits easily into the back of my jeep cherokee so should be easy for a small car as well
 
I think it looks good. might want something to insulate the hlt and I dont see a Y adapter for the propane tank listed in your parts. Im sure he doesnt want to have to deal with 2 propane tanks.
 
Good call on the Y. He cound probably fit some reflectex around the HLT and still have it nest.

Yea I was thinking some reflectex that arent attached to the HLT something he could just set the hlt into so its even covered on the bottom. It would have to be a snug fit to be effective though. Just the lid would probably be enough insulation on the top. My dad made stuff like this for backpacking to keep food warm and it works really well. I dont have any pictures but I can get them if you want to see what I am talking about.
 
I have considered it, but just don't see that as a good option. I know many are doing it and are happy with it, I just can't get over the traditional guidance of rapidly cooling. Maybe some day when money and brewing time are less tight I will do some no chill experiment batches, but for know I will stick with what I know makes great beer. (It has taken me about 4 years to start making beers I think are good and I am not ready to radically change my system now :))
 
So is the consensus that this is a good idea? Possibly he could remove the chiller and go no chill or at least start that way if he wants to save $60.

Can anyone think of a different direction or idea I/he should consider?
 
Could the steamer bits be converted for a false bottom? Might save a little more money. I'd suggest BiaB instead of the false bottom, but not for 10 gal batches (I think it could be done, but I'm not to where I'd recommend it ;))

I like the siphon starter. I might make a trip by the pet store to see if they stock one here in town :D

That's really a pretty economical set up (nice and compact, too). I like it.
 
If the temp drop is too much without the HLT burner it almost looks like a third burner can be added to that rig on the opposing side of the other burner. Like you said it doesn't even have to be that big of a burner. But a amateur welder should be able to add a burner for ~50 bux later on if its not working out.
 
If the temp drop is too much without the HLT burner it almost looks like a third burner can be added to that rig on the opposing side of the other burner. Like you said it doesn't even have to be that big of a burner. But a amateur welder should be able to add a burner for ~50 bux later on if its not working out.

I think the extra burner thing is an option. I have done brew days with two burners but if it is too much hassle I believe he could add a third burner and still be able to roll the "cart" around.

Good ideas guys! Keep them coming.
 
I think he'll be fine without the extra burner, its a bit more lifting but nothing major. I'd say one issue with no chill would be if he were transporting the wort back to his place (I read this yesterday and can't remember what you said about where he'll be fermenting.) moving super hot vessels would not be ideal, so I also vote keep the chiller.

All in all it looks like a good setup! I really like those nesting pots....if only I had the coin to pick up some of those.... I could use the extra space!

The stipulation of doing 10 gallon batches is pretty interesting for someone just getting into it, but it is also a great way to start and learn about different yeasts. Also, with that many pots he could probably do a split boil and experiment with hops and stuff! Cool setup.
 
While he is a new brewer, he has brewed several batches with me, and just wants to be able to do his own thing without waiting around to match his schedule up with mine. So he has a pretty good idea what he wants to do with it.

Good point with the hot wort. He only lives 1o miles away from me, so it is close. He will probably want to go with regular fermenters as that is what he is used to from brewing with me.
 
I like that portable fry stand. I was thinking of getting one and setting it on a table and using it as a gravity system for continues sparging. Then for the boil take it of the table and us it on the ground. Sound like a good idea?
 
Sparked by a brew in a bag discussion, here is part duex of my portable design series.

First the pot would change to a single kettle with a full steaming basket.

118-182_large.jpg


Here is ow you could do AG with a single burner, single pot and single fermenter.


Basic setup this is all you need.
Part_Duex_Brew_1.bmp


Heat all the water of to sparge temps plus a couple degrees for heat loss. Put grains in a grain bag inside steamer basket.
Part_Duex_Brew_2.bmp


Transfer sparge water into fermenter and cover with a blanket or other insulation. Add ice cubes to the kettle to bring liquor to strike temps.
Part_Duex_Brew_3.bmp


Put grain basket into mash and mash for desired schedule.
Part_Duex_Brew_4.bmp


Raise basket out of wort and sparge with the liquor held in the fermenter.
Part_Duex_Brew_5.bmp


Boil as usual.
Part_Duex_Brew_6.bmp


Cool, and transfer back to fermenter.
Part_Duex_Brew_7.bmp


I would have to figure out some way to vorlauf effectively but I don't see that as a big challenge.

.....................

Discuss.
 
So which do we think is better? Part Duex packs smaller and is probably cheaper. I think I would go with no chill for part duex to start with.

I think I am leaning toward part duex just for the cool factor. For an easy and pretty cheap upgrade, you could add a pump and a PID for a RIMS... wow, this could be epic.
 
I've been kicking an idea around for electric heat which would work well for a compact brewery: a heatstick on steroids.

Get a chunk of steel (such as a large bolt) and drill a hole through it.
Run a copper tube through the hole.
Build an induction heater around it (A big, high freq coil)
Drop the whole deal in a pipe with the copper tube protruding
Submerge both openings beneath the water line
turn on heater
Heat gradient causes water to circulate AND heat

Just a thought :D
 
Just a heads up, as I did this for a while with the bag (not using my basket) it is going to be HEAVY! You may want to move the kettle to the ground for stability. Say you use 22lbs of grain for a 10 gallon batch, and have an absorption rate of .2 qt/lb, you're looking at lifting 31+ lbs and holding it there, I imagine you'd build a frame to hold the basket?

Also, during the rinse phase, the grain will squish down in the bag in the basket, rinsing becomes a PIA as the water also attempts to run out of the side holes on the basket.
 
WOW.... just had a thought. Remove the burner and replace with a 115VAC heating element and you have the smallest AG system possible.

120 would not let you get a big enough element. 220V would be needed.

I like the idea, but you can even eliminate the sparge and get 75% efficiency.
 
I think I am leaning toward part duex just for the cool factor. For an easy and pretty cheap upgrade, you could add a pump and a PID for a RIMS... wow, this could be epic.

Yeah, just pump from bottom back to the top of the kettle with the PID controlling the element.

For the bag lift, use a handwinch and a pulley.
 
OK so it is coming up on time to choose a system and buy it. Jeremy (my friend) has cash in
hand and is ready to commit.

Which system do you think is best?

Here is the stand design for Pat Duex:

layout.bmp


and here are the price outs for each brewery:

Parts_List2.bmp


Part Duex (BIAB solution) costs about $300 more but has a pump and QD's... I really don't know
and want some input.

Which would you go with?
 
Still a fan of Version 1.0. If he wants to spring for the pump anyways he can. I'd say its easier/cheaper to go from 1 to 2 than the other way around if he ever wants to switch.
 
Part Duex....

Part_Duex.png


That is a pretty sexy system....

I don't really know anything about either of these processes. I use a very standard three vessel system.

I think as far as PITA goes it will be a horse a piece. Each has pluses and minuses.
 
FWIW, you don't "have" to have the pump in the BIAB one. You can just use the burner and stirring to keep/raise the temps. That would knock a bit off the price. Also, that's the "classic" Aussie BIAB way of doing it.

If you really wanted to, you could also just mount a "normal" thermometer in the pot, or just use a hand held digital one.
 
Yeah I know... The pricing above isn't really fair because the BIAB would be cheaper by a bunch. The pump would be really nice though.

Also, he could add a RIMS to part Duex for an extra $250ish if he wants to. That would be pretty sweet.

Have you done any 10g BIAB bakins? Any progress/design on your dedicated rig?
 
So those of you who are voting for the JerBrew V1.0 (three vessel), what is your reasoning? Just more standard brewing technique. I like the simplicity and ease of the BIAB solution and was leaning that way. I am surprised that so many are choosing the three vessel.

What am I missing?
 
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