Guide to set internal chest freezer thermostat to >32F; Eliminate external control

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This thread helped me with my 7cuft keezer build. The danby freezer I used had a single temperature set screw. I fiddled with it over a 36hr period and the freezer stays solid at 35*F. Now that my keezer is finished, I have a temperature probe on the outside with the wire routed in through the collar and the temperature sensor sitting in a bottle of water. Thanks!
 
has anyone found this on model #FRF520 Igloo - 5.1 Cu. Ft. Chest Freezer?



Have ya' looked?..........:cross:

Is it a digital or mechanical thermostat?

Have you got a picture of it, with the knob or thermostat removed from it's mounting?

If it's a digital one, you might be S O L. :mug:
 
I went a little too far backing mine out and it popped off. i don't think I'm going to be able to get it back in the screw. can a temp controller fix this or is the chest freezer broken?
 
Look up the part number for the thermostat online. They're not expensive. I was able to find a refrigerator ranged thermostat for my keezer that made it possible to get it into the proper temperature range after the adjusting screw in my original thermostat wasn't able to get into the temperature range I wanted.
 
I went a little too far backing mine out and it popped off. i don't think I'm going to be able to get it back in the screw. can a temp controller fix this or is the chest freezer broken?

Is the freezer cooling at all? If so, you could just purchase this as an external controller:

http://amzn.to/1yv5uW9

I've heard of people backing the screw out all the way and then being able to repair it. It's a pain, but do-able.

Good luck!
 
Yes you can replace it with a temp controller easy. That is what I did and it makes it a fridge or freezer depending on what you need it for. The wiring is pretty easy too.
 
Ours isnt a chest freezer but a Frigidaire Wine fridge. Use for fermentation with our Stc-1000 controller but only would get down into the 50's. Fine for ales but needed cooler for lagers so openned the inside thermostat and adjusted as mention on this thread. Wow now can get to freeze if wanted! Ps. Ours required a full turn counter clockwise. Thanks gang!

Robert

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...I know there are some models that go slightly above freezing and that will be my plan.

I'm interested in finding a model that will go slightly above freezing, as I would like to lager about 8 5 gallon corny kegs at a time.

A couple of questions for anyone following this thread, as well:

I'm curious if adjusting the thermostat to a higher temperature puts a heavier load on the compressor, in a manner similar to using an external thermostat would do? I would like the temperature to hold at 28F to 32F; given that this is a lower temperature, would that mean that there would be a lighter load on the compressor, once the thermal mass from the corny kegs had stabilized?
 
Man I'm glad i found this article. My POS Ranco died a few days ago and i found this thread while looking for a replacement. I have plenty of experience with stuff like this but i guess i assumed there was no course adjustment on the thermostat. That was a stupid assumption. I was lucky because my freezer was already around 40 degrees so all i did was plug it in and screw in the course adjustment until the freezer turned off. Had to do a little tweaking after that but very minor.

I'm curious if anyone has experience doing this with freezers kept in the garage. I live in NY so my garage is hot as balls in the summer and cold as balls in the winter. Because of the large thermal mass of the kegs i'm guessing it will not make any difference the freezer will just work harder in the summer.

Thanks again OP.
 
I just purchased an Idylis 7 cubic foot freezer from lowes. The coarse screw needed to be turned clockwise about 10 revolutions which was also the limit, but that holds the temp at about 35 degrees.
 
I just purchased an Idylis 7 cubic foot freezer from lowes. The coarse screw needed to be turned clockwise about 10 revolutions which was also the limit, but that holds the temp at about 35 degrees.

While I am waiting for my controller to show up on the slow boat from China I might do this to my freezer.

Do you have any photos that you took when you adjusted your Idylis?
 
For anyone else that reads through this thread looking for an Idylis tweaking:

I had to remove two screws on the right side of the freezer to reach behind the grate to pop out the plastic tabs on the back of the front temperature adjustment panel. Once it was free of the freezer body you will find the screw on one of the sides of the wired device mounted to the front panel.

Once the coarse adjustment has been made what 'fine' adjustment is recommended? I set mine to the warmest setting as far as the knob on the front goes.
 
Just an update on my Idylis 7.1:

It is holding right around 32F or just under.
This isn't warm enough to prevent an open bucket from freezing up partially but a couple of bottles of water have not frozen even though they are sitting on the bottom of the freezer.
I would recommend an external temperature controller at this time for an Idylis just to ensure it stays the temperature that is desired.
 
Greetings all,

Having sold my Haier kegerator, I have upgraded to a Frigidaire Kegerator FRTB7B4EMB.

At it's lowest setting (below 1 on the thermostat controller) the liquid temp of a water bottle was around 42 degrees. Not nearly cold enough for my taste. The manual's recommended setting was 5. I can only imagine the flat warm beer this setting would have poured...

I managed to remove the thermostat controller housing (4 bolts), disconnect the main connector, and access the thermostat.

UPDATE: Removing the thermostat controller housing is not necessary. Just pull the knob off the front and the set screw is easily accessible. Lesson learned!

After removing the knob, I was able to remove the thermostat. I found the thermostat set screw just to the right of the knob. It was set at about the 10 o'clock position. I have since adjusted it counter-clockwise to the 8 o'clock.

Here's to hoping! I took some pics in the event someone want's to make this modifcation to their Frigidaire. I found that they use the same controller unit on most of their top-freezer units.

Will return back here with the results. If this doesn't work, I'll be purchasing/installing the ITC-1000 Temperature controller.

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Has anyone adjusted a Danby beverage cooler? I need mine colder for lagering.

Never owned a Danby, but the rule of thumb is the set-screw is going to be somewhere nearby the thermostat controller.

On my old Haier, I had to remove the thermostat housing and found it. If you see the knob, I'd put money on it that the set screw is going to be within a few inches of the knob.

Happy hunting!
 
I found what seems to be the screw, but it seems to spin around like it's stripped or something, I barely touched it. Maybe it's reverse threaded? Anyway, it didn't seem to affect the temp, it's still getting down to the same temp of 40ish, maybe I'll try screwing it to the left.
 
I found what seems to be the screw, but it seems to spin around like it's stripped or something, I barely touched it. Maybe it's reverse threaded? Anyway, it didn't seem to affect the temp, it's still getting down to the same temp of 40ish, maybe I'll try screwing it to the left.

It's possible it just doesn't have a lot of friction to it.

Whatever you do....don't back the crew all the way, you might have a hell of a time getting it back in and then who knows how your thermostat will behave and you'll be forced to rig up a 3rd party thermostat controller

Was your kegerator purchsed new or used? Maybe someone else tampered with it before you?
 
Greetings all,

Having sold my Haier kegerator, I have upgraded to a Frigidaire Kegerator FRTB7B4EMB.

At it's lowest setting (below 1 on the thermostat controller) the liquid temp of a water bottle was around 42 degrees. Not nearly cold enough for my taste. The manual's recommended setting was 5. I can only imagine the flat warm beer this setting would have poured...

I managed to remove the thermostat controller housing (4 bolts), disconnect the main connector, and access the thermostat.

UPDATE: Removing the thermostat controller housing is not necessary. Just pull the knob off the front and the set screw is easily accessible. Lesson learned!

After removing the knob, I was able to remove the thermostat. I found the thermostat set screw just to the right of the knob. It was set at about the 10 o'clock position. I have since adjusted it counter-clockwise to the 8 o'clock.

Here's to hoping! I took some pics in the event someone want's to make this modifcation to their Frigidaire. I found that they use the same controller unit on most of their top-freezer units.

Will return back here with the results. If this doesn't work, I'll be purchasing/installing the ITC-1000 Temperature controller.

Update: I was able to get my kegerator down to about 38 Degrees F by adjusting the thermostat set screw. That's about as cold as I can get it without backing out the set screw too far.

I adjusted it starting from 10 o'clock counter-clockwise to 12 o'clock in several increments. I think I went from 10, to 8, to 6, to 3, to 12. I may try going to 10 if it pours foamy.

Now I just need a keg and we'll see how she pours :rockin:
 
I just bought an Igloo FRF1050 and turned the screw all the way in, but that still had the lowest setting on the dial below freezing. I'm going the other direction to see what that does. However, from where the screw started to all the way in didn't really seem to affect the temperature inside that much.

I'll try the other way. Anyone have experience with Igloo CFs?
 
I just bought an Igloo FRF1050 and turned the screw all the way in, but that still had the lowest setting on the dial below freezing. I'm going the other direction to see what that does. However, from where the screw started to all the way in didn't really seem to affect the temperature inside that much.

I'll try the other way. Anyone have experience with Igloo CFs?

You can see if this guy had any luck:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f252/g...ernal-control-249612/index41.html#post4500434
 
It's possible it just doesn't have a lot of friction to it.

Whatever you do....don't back the crew all the way, you might have a hell of a time getting it back in and then who knows how your thermostat will behave and you'll be forced to rig up a 3rd party thermostat controller

Was your kegerator purchsed new or used? Maybe someone else tampered with it before you?

It's a fermentation chamber, glass door mini-fridge, it didn't look opened, had add all the plastic film on the metal and smelled new.
 
It's a fermentation chamber, glass door mini-fridge, it didn't look opened, had add all the plastic film on the metal and smelled new.

You're trying to get a glass door danby down below 50 degrees?

I just don't know if that's physically possible without disabling your defrost cycle and possibly blowing out your compressor, but I'm no expert.

If the set screw isn't getting it any lower and you don't care about blowing your fridge up, then perhaps its time you considered a 3rd party thermostat. I'd recommend trying the STC-1000 or a Johnson Control A419.

But seriously, you might consider trading/selling for a keezer IMO.
 
You're trying to get a glass door danby down below 50 degrees?

I just don't know if that's physically possible without disabling your defrost cycle and possibly blowing out your compressor, but I'm no expert.

If the set screw isn't getting it any lower and you don't care about blowing your fridge up, then perhaps its time you considered a 3rd party thermostat. I'd recommend trying the STC-1000 or a Johnson Control A419.

But seriously, you might consider trading/selling for a keezer IMO.


UPDATE - I might be wrong in my statement..according to this unit, it should get down to 43 degrees:

http://www.danby.com/en/US/our_products/refrigeration/dbc120bls

Is this in hot environment perhaps?
 
This isn't a wine fridge, it's a pop can cooler, it gets down to about 40, I want to get it down to about 29 though for lagering. I use an STC-1000 to control the temp and have the thermostat dial maxed out. There's no temp read-out on the front. I saw on youtube a guy installed a 3rd party thermostat, I couldn't find the part he used though.
the fridge:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MPLYEW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

video:[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lp5xG_1FLYA[/ame]
 
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This isn't a wine fridge, it's a pop can cooler, it gets down to about 40, I want to get it down to about 29 though for lagering. I use an STC-1000 to control the temp and have the thermostat dial maxed out. There's no temp read-out on the front. I saw on youtube a guy installed a 3rd party thermostat, I couldn't find the part he used though.
the fridge:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MPLYEW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lp5xG_1FLYA

I think you should sell it and build a keezer if lagering is your goal. You're likely to burn out your pop cooler as it wasn't designed for that. If you don't care, then you're going to have to disable the defrost timer and run a 3rd party thermostat. Even then it won't get down to 29. It's not a freezer.
 
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Can anyone provide guidance on where the coarse adjustment screw might be???

This is a Matsu****a compressor. (mat sushi ta)
 
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Thoughts? I'm thinking I might have to shear the spinning dial plate (first pic) at the end where it sticks out and pushes the tiny switch 'doo-hickey' which shuts it off.
 
Yeah, you may have to do that. That thermostat don't seem to have a set screw. Or go with a STC type temp control.
 
Thinking about it... shearing it off would just make it colder. STC it is.

I mentioned this a while back, but this is a loooong thread, so I'll repeat it:

Using an STC is a good option, but wouldn't it be simpler to find a generic refrigerator thermostat, and just wire that to where the freezer thermostat goes?

I'd need to look at specific models to know what to use for certain, but I'm pretty sure these are mostly just two-wire, simple on/off thermostats? Couldn't a generic on/off fridge thermostat directly replace the freezer thermostat?

Then you would not need to wire an STC-1000 for power. Just a thought. The STC would be a bit more flexible though, so not a bad way to go at all.

If you don't need auto switching between heat/cool - I just saw this on ebay - even cheaper than an STC-1000 @ ~ $7:

http://goo.gl/d7xW4E


And here's a cheap thermostat - looks like a standard adjustable unit - 6A capability, <$3, ~ $8 with shipping?

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDet...l-Thermostat/RF7350122/1224590?ss=a4i516&mr=0

-kenc
 
I mentioned this a while back, but this is a loooong thread, so I'll repeat it:

Using an STC is a good option, but wouldn't it be simpler to find a generic refrigerator thermostat, and just wire that to where the freezer thermostat goes?

I'd need to look at specific models to know what to use for certain, but I'm pretty sure these are mostly just two-wire, simple on/off thermostats? Couldn't a generic on/off fridge thermostat directly replace the freezer thermostat?

Then you would not need to wire an STC-1000 for power. Just a thought. The STC would be a bit more flexible though, so not a bad way to go at all.

If you don't need auto switching between heat/cool - I just saw this on ebay - even cheaper than an STC-1000 @ ~ $7:

http://goo.gl/d7xW4E


And here's a cheap thermostat - looks like a standard adjustable unit - 6A capability, <$3, ~ $8 with shipping?

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDet...l-Thermostat/RF7350122/1224590?ss=a4i516&mr=0

-kenc

I like your thoughts here. To play devils advocate I'd suggest that if you're going to use a 3rd party thermostat, do it right the first time. Get a unit that's got good resources on the web for support. Using a cheapo-thermostat would work...but is it digital? Is it accurate?

The STC-1000 comes in Fahrenheit and costs $16...it's really not that expensive and comes with at least the peace of mind that homebrewers are already using it and have posted some of their setups for ideas/support.

http://amzn.to/1JlsPvY
 
I like your thoughts here. To play devils advocate I'd suggest that if you're going to use a 3rd party thermostat, do it right the first time. Get a unit that's got good resources on the web for support. Using a cheapo-thermostat would work...but is it digital? Is it accurate?

The STC-1000 comes in Fahrenheit and costs $16...it's really not that expensive and comes with at least the peace of mind that homebrewers are already using it and have posted some of their setups for ideas/support.

http://amzn.to/1JlsPvY

Yes, I think you are right. The STC style really just are not that much more than you might find a cheap mechanical thermostat (there are probably shipping charges for the ones I found), and have other advantages.

I guess I was thinking in terms of some of the techno-phobes - some people are put off by the wiring of an STC-1000 (it's simple, and people here will help, so they should not be), and that gets a little more complex if you need to add a higher current relay (probably not required in most cases).

I've got that inkbird you linked, just tested it today as I got it a few weeks ago and have not had a need for it yet. I like that it is in F, though I really should get my head around thinking C, so far all I can do automatically is 0 and 100C, 25C is warm room, and -30C = -30F. Have not memorized mash temperatures yet.

BTW, somewhat related to all this, I started a thread on replacement probes and compatible thermo*meters* (no controlling action, just temperature readings) to the STC series:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=6862936#post6862936

-kenc
 
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