Homemade Mash Paddle Pics

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Would there be anything wrong with making one out of a regular 1x4 or 2x4? What are they made of, pine?

Yes (it's very wrong to use pine), you want to use a hard wood, not a soft wood. This is why maple is so very often used for paddles.

A 1x4 would be better than a 2x4 too. A 2x4 would be far too thick to use well. You can get 1x4 pieces of maple pretty cheap at HD or Lowe's.
 
Yes (it's very wrong to use pine), you want to use a hard wood, not a soft wood. This is why maple is so very often used for paddles.

A 1x4 would be better than a 2x4 too. A 2x4 would be far too thick to use well. You can get 1x4 pieces of maple pretty cheap at HD or Lowe's.

Good to know, Thanks!
 
Why hard wood? I have a willow cricket bat I want to use but I believe that is soft. Also, anything wrong with using a food safe sealer on a paddle? I was given advice to just treat it with oil from time to time but I'd love to keep the stickers on the bat.
 
Why hard wood? I have a willow cricket bat I want to use but I believe that is soft. Also, anything wrong with using a food safe sealer on a paddle? I was given advice to just treat it with oil from time to time but I'd love to keep the stickers on the bat.

You want the hard wood since it will be food safe. Pine (from all I recall) is not really food safe. All the wood cooking implements you see are from a hard wood (typically maple) or bamboo. The only true 'food safe sealer' that you'll be able to use is mineral oil. Anything else won't be safe.

Put the bat on the wall either in your brewing area, or where you enjoy homebrew.

Also, you want to use a light color wood (again, maple) so that nothing leeches out into the batch.

This is one time where I wouldn't buck against the wisdom of the ages.
 
Making this while watching Yankees win the A.L. East!!!!!

image-1580429217.jpg
 
I have some 1x6 white and red oak boards drying in my barn. They were cut about 2 months ago.

Is white or red oak a good choice...assuming I have that on hand rather than maple.

How long should I let it cure before I use it in my mash?

Paul
 
bierandbikes said:
I have some 1x6 white and red oak boards drying in my barn. They were cut about 2 months ago.

Is white or red oak a good choice...assuming I have that on hand rather than maple.

Paul

I guess I would choose the piece that has the tighter grain IMO. I think either would work out fine though.
 
Nice! What is that made out of?

The wood is from a Mesquite Tree.

The picture does not do it justice, the wood is red, like cherry, and the paddle turns a deep red when wet.
You can find a mesquite tree in front of 50% of the homes in Tucson, AZ.
My brother in-law is a cabinet maker so I got a piece of rough-sawn from him.

The tree makes a seed pod that the Native Americans in this part of the world have been making bread with for centuries. Next year I plan on making a beer using mesquite beans. I hear they make an earthy bread, so I'm thinking it would go great in a stout.

Here are some better pictures.

DSC01165.jpg


DSC01167.jpg
 
Figured I'd toss this up just for kicks. This is a 5' mash paddle I made for a local brewery whose mash agitator is seized!



It's one-piece, solid red oak, sanded and routed. The middle holes are also routed but the smaller holes are not. I may go back later and do that.
 
My Dad made mine out of unfinished Beech. He seems to think it should be one of the most flavor nuetral woods there is. Heck, Budweiser is aged on it so you know there has to be no flavor in it!
 
Here's mine. It's one piece of solid red oak. It's close to 42" and the paddle is about 5.5" wide. Right now it's unfinished but I am about to put mineral oil on it. This took a whole for me to do and I am in love with it! I can't wait to use for the first time!

image-3643441622.jpg
 
Rake_Rocko said:
Here's mine. It's one piece of solid red oak. It's close to 42" and the paddle is about 5.5" wide. Right now it's unfinished but I am about to put mineral oil on it. This took a whole for me to do and I am in love with it! I can't wait to use for the first time!

Love it!
 
Here's mine. It's one piece of solid red oak. It's close to 42" and the paddle is about 5.5" wide. Right now it's unfinished but I am about to put mineral oil on it. This took a whole for me to do and I am in love with it! I can't wait to use for the first time!

I made one out of African Teak. It was so sweet. Snapped in half on my first brewday with it. Good luck!

I used tung oil on mine (I use this on everything - it's safe to use around food). Teak does't really need it, since it's a very sleek oily wood anyway, but it did shine up nicely. Rub it in really good and let it sit for a few days - dries slowly but you will love it - guaranteed.
 
Ya know, I have really been battling with myself about putting mineral oil on it or not... Ive been back and forth and back and forth. I came to the conclusion to just do it because I love the way it looks now, and I've read multiple people say that they have finished theirs with mineral oil with no ill effects on their finished beer. So, I said to hell with it and did it.

So that's what my thinking was... And ya know what, if it does affect my finished beer, then I've lived and learned.
 
Ya know, I have really been battling with myself about putting mineral oil on it or not... Ive been back and forth and back and forth. I came to the conclusion to just do it because I love the way it looks now, and I've read multiple people say that they have finished theirs with mineral oil with no ill effects on their finished beer. So, I said to hell with it and did it.

So that's what my thinking was... And ya know what, if it does affect my finished beer, then I've lived and learned.

No worries.
 
Thanks sweetcell for the compliment and I respect your concerns, but I've done much research and found that people who have oiled their paddle and used it multiple times, they had no ill-effects to their finished beer or head retention specifically.

I therefore said F it and went ahead and oiled it. I think it looks better with the grain color popping. If I do experience bad outcomes with the finished product, then ill know not to use oiled paddles in the future.

Considering the amount of time the paddle will actually be in contact with the wort, I'm not going to stress about it anymore.
 
Oops, I'm an idiot. I didn't realize my reply went to the next page and thought that it didn't post. Haha sorry for the double post.
 
Zmad,

I like that! Really sweet! What did you use to cut out the design in the paddle?

I used a scroll saw and it was such a pain on mine. I did get better as I went though an my cuts got smoother as I went.
 
Zmad - nice! I'm thinking about moving over to a hammock for backpacking purposes too. Thanks for the forum link
 
For most of the work i used a foldable camp saw, dremel and sandpaper. Later on I was able to get access to a belt sander to round over the edges. Since i live in an apartment and the walls suck sound wise i cant use power tools.
 
I used butchers block oil on mine. I oil it after I've cleaned it when I'm done mashing, that way it has plenty of time to soak in and dry before the next brew. I haven't noticed any ill affects in my beers with it that way. I did not oil my first paddle and it dried out and started to crack after only 10 batches or so.
 
Yes that is exactly what I DON'T want to happen. I had mineral oil on hand so I used that. It seemed that it will work great. It applied just like tung oil (I'm comparing to that because I have used it before on other wood). Besides I think butchers oil is mineral oil and something else mixed, if I'm not mistaken.
 
Has anybody used bees wax to finish their mash paddle? I have used it on turned wood pieces and it gives the wood a beautiful shine and protects. However, I don't believe is penetrates much below the surface and I have never used it on a piece that would be in contact with hot liquid. Any thoughts?
 

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