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To be honest that price is really good for what you are getting. I have built a few systems now and have a pretty good grasp of the components and what it would take to put this together. I would say that is one of the better control options out there right now. Especially considering it it for gas.

The tower isn't a bad price either. 1k for that full setup is pretty impressive.

Now, bring on the "I can build that for $80" crowd. That is a lot of quality and utility for the price. I would be tempted by it anyway.
 
It does include the Gas Valve for burner control. Gas Valve, Pilot and igniter is $250. Their PID is $100+ model. The price really isn't that bad once you consider all the pieces, labor and mark-up. I expected it to be a lot more.

We've been looking at building something similar for awhile and I doubt we could do it for less.
 
Looking into pricing over the past couple weeks of automating my MLT/HLT, I agree the price for this is not too bad for the control unit. Definately has me interested.
 
I am seriously thinking about getting this system. I would stick with my current burner for my HLT/BK and do a batch sparge. What would you guys suggest for a burner? And for a MT? I currently use a 10 gal rubbermaid cooler as my MT and would like to upgrade to a 15 gal MT to allow for bigger beers. Right now when i brew a bigger beer it fills my MT even at a low qt/lb of 1.2
 
I am seriously thinking about getting this system. I would stick with my current burner for my HLT/BK and do a batch sparge. What would you guys suggest for a burner? And for a MT? I currently use a 10 gal rubbermaid cooler as my MT and would like to upgrade to a 15 gal MT to allow for bigger beers. Right now when i brew a bigger beer it fills my MT even at a low qt/lb of 1.2

You want to upgrade to a 15 gallon rubbermaid MT? You wouldnt be able to use this with a cooler MT. It is designed for direct fired vessels.

The manual shows the ignition switch using both a bg14 and a cup style burner, but states several times it can be used with any burner. If I was to get 1 (or 2) I would be using it with BG12's.



After reading through the manul, it seems they designed this thing to work with all different systems. I am really sold on it. Like OneHoppyGuy says above, after you factor in the prices for parts (including misc stuff like wiring, box, connectors, etc) the price is quite decent, especially it being Blichmann.
 
I guess it's time to step up to the plate??

Step up to the plate meaning purchase one and try it out? I'm tempted! Just need to get the funds together. Also, if I did get one, I would love to get a custom box made to match the control unit to use for my pump control box. That would be slick!
 
You want to upgrade to a 15 gallon rubbermaid MT? You wouldnt be able to use this with a cooler MT. It is designed for direct fired vessels.

The manual shows the ignition switch using both a bg14 and a cup style burner, but states several times it can be used with any burner. If I was to get 1 (or 2) I would be using it with BG12's.



After reading through the manul, it seems they designed this thing to work with all different systems. I am really sold on it. Like OneHoppyGuy says above, after you factor in the prices for parts (including misc stuff like wiring, box, connectors, etc) the price is quite decent, especially it being Blichmann.

No I want to upgrade to a metal mash tun for this. I dont think a 15 gal rubbermade exists
 
you're looking at $1500 just for the controls and tower, plus another $1400 for a 3 burner TopTier. At that price Hoppy starts to look pretty good.
 
Is a single controller only suitable for a direct-fired MLT?
Could you actually use a pair of these things to run a HERMs system?

Cheers!
 
I was thinking you'd only need one for a HERMS setup.

I suppose if you manually controlled the HLT temperature that might work, although the whole "ramp" thing has me wondering if the controller would get frustrated along the way and call home to momma ;)

Cheers!
 
Step up to the plate meaning purchase one and try it out? I'm tempted! Just need to get the funds together. Also, if I did get one, I would love to get a custom box made to match the control unit to use for my pump control box. That would be slick!

No, as in step up to the plate and manufacture our own version. It's basically a PID and a Gas Valve, same stuff we're already doing.
 
This does the same thing plus more...

582636_223666351071042_118448088259536_360840_65206560_n.jpg
 
I wonder what will blow or how bad the shock will be when the ground wire falls off and ignition module fires up. The intellegent thing would have been to mount the solenoid on the enclosure, electrically bond the body to the enclosure, and run a metallic gas line to the burner, no way to forget the ground wire.
 
The question I have is: are they using the igniter as a thermocoupler also? If not, how are they sensing flame?

Kladue - any answers?
 
The question I have is: are they using the igniter as a thermocoupler also? If not, how are they sensing flame?

Kladue - any answers?

When a flame is established, the ignition system detects a change in resistance in the lead wire and turns off
the sparking, but leaves the gas valve open. If the flame is lost (eg, a gust of wind) it will automatically
reactivate the spark to reignite the flame. If at any time a flame cannot be established within 10 sec it will
stop the ignition trial and will sound an alarm horn
 
The way the video shows the setup, the flame rod is supposed to be in the flame to sense fire, which would work if the flame is held at one level, iffy if the flame is lower or higher. That is why a pilot works best in applications where the flame is adjustable, always constant flame in pilot for reliable sensing and ignition of main burner regardless of main burner setting.
The flame acts like a rectifier for the flame sense rod, when dc voltage detected in ignition module it shuts down spark.
 
I'm not sure. They're offering the software to automate it, but I have no idea how they are interfacing with the module. Would like to know though!

It's all in the manual

This mode of operation requires the purchase of an optional RS485->USB communication cable (purchase
through your retailer) and downloading the free Blichmann Engineering TOP-Link interface software from our
web page.

Features: The auto ramp/soak feature will allow you to automatically follow a user-programmed mash
profile. Up to 8 individual mash profiles can be stored in the controller (up to 4 rests each) and they can also
be linked together for very complex mash profiles. In addition, the user can save an unlimited number of
mash profile files on your computer and recall those as needed. System parameters, such as units, calibration
offset, resetting to factory defaults etc. can easily be made through the software. Lastly, the user can graph
the controller output and export to a CSV file for documenting the brew day.
 
The way the video shows the setup, the flame rod is supposed to be in the flame to sense fire, which would work if the flame is held at one level, iffy if the flame is lower or higher. That is why a pilot works best in applications where the flame is adjustable, always constant flame in pilot for reliable sensing and ignition of main burner regardless of main burner setting.
The flame acts like a rectifier for the flame sense rod, when dc voltage detected in ignition module it shuts down spark.

I'm a little confused. The igniter is the flame sensor also? I've never seen a setup like that.
I agree on using a pilot.
 
I'm a little confused. The igniter is the flame sensor also? I've never seen a setup like that.
I agree on using a pilot.

The ignition electrode is used to create a spark to automatically ignite the gas and is activated by the
controller. It also lets the controller know if a flame is present.

You've got a ton more experience than me with these things, and if you guys have never seen it, then I don't know what to say other then we'll see how it actually works.
 
...You could build one for less, but this has the Blichmann quality and you know it will work the first time.

Actaully, I spent some time researching what they built and you would hard pressed to save much ($100?). There is a PID on the market that does close to what their software does.

I think we're going to offer it as an option on our stands.
 
chemman14 said:
jealous!!! Did you also order the tower? I live in Newbury Park and would love to check this thing out during one of your brew days! Share some homebrew with a fellow HBT member

Didn't order the tower, didn't feel I needed that. Yea, we can work out a time so you can come check it out during a brew day. Always enjoy meeting fellow homebrewers!
 
Didn't order the tower, didn't feel I needed that. Yea, we can work out a time so you can come check it out during a brew day. Always enjoy meeting fellow homebrewers!

Sounds good, let you get a few brews with it under your belt then I would love to come check it out
 
To be honest that price is really good for what you are getting. I have built a few systems now and have a pretty good grasp of the components and what it would take to put this together. I would say that is one of the better control options out there right now. Especially considering it it for gas.

The tower isn't a bad price either. 1k for that full setup is pretty impressive.

Now, bring on the "I can build that for $80" crowd. That is a lot of quality and utility for the price. I would be tempted by it anyway.

I understand quality, but a $575 controller to brew beer? I'm finishing up a electric brew kettle controller that will be less than $300. Plus it will have a auxiliary control to turn a pump on & off. The controller does not use temperature feedback because you don't need temperature feedback to boil wurt, you need to be able to adjust the amount of energy going to the heating element just like you adjust the flame on a gas fired unit. The same controller can be used in a small RIMS setup - all you have to do is monitor your thermometer and adjust accordingly!

Front View.jpg
 
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