Wow - some seriously nice stuff here. And I thought I was going overboard with 8 taps!
Lounge area:
Home Theater:
Setting up the lines/tap tower (measure 20 times, cut once!):
The exposed hoses were then wrapped in plastic wrap (moisture barrier), then wrapped in metal foil for cold transfer from glycol lines to product lines, and then insulated. Same as the original trunk line.
An explanation of the parts shown:
1 - Pressure gauge for glass rinser. (Around 15-20 PSI is all you need).
2 - Pressure reducing valve (PRV) used to take the ~60 PSI house water pressure down to ~15 PSI for the glass rinser. (The PRV is mostly hidden by the beer trunk line in the picture above).
3 - One way check valve to stop any backflow. (Prevents the rinser from leaking/squirting if house water pressure drops and comes back).
4 - Shut off valve for glass rinser.
5 - Shut-off valve for brewery floor drain washout. (You need to run water through basement floor drains once or twice a year to avoid standing water. This valve makes it easy. I simply open it for 10 seconds a couple of times/year since technically the brewery floor drain will never be used - it's there "just in case". Most houses will only have 1 floor drain that is automatically washed/cleaned from the air conditioner, dehumidifyer, and/or HRV/ERV system so no need for manual intervention.)
6 - Drain from drip tray. (A regular dishwasher drain hose that connects to above the P-trap under the bar sink).
7 - Cold water supply line to the drip tray sprayer. (Always use cold water for a glass rinser).
One the brewery side the large trunk line connects to the keg freezer (keezer) on the right (shown here not connected yet):
The freezer on the left is actually run as a freezer and is used to store hops and yeast, and to chill the glycol lines in the trunk line.
More pics
here
Kal