Auber SYL-2352 PID & RTD Questions

I'll be setting up my PID this week and had a couple quick questions:

1. Is there anything I need to do as far as initial setup when I power it up and do a test run (just heating water)? Any specific settings that need to be manipulated?

2. I have Auber RTD...is it accurate straight out of the box or will I need to do any calibration?

Can't wait to finally try it out...

I too am interesting in the posted questions. As far as the second question goes, I had to set my PID to recognize the temperature read from the RTD as 6*F warmer than actual temperature. In other words, the RTD was reading low according to my other thermometers.

Are you using this in HLT, BK, or both? I am still fairly new to my pid and use it for both HLT & BK. If you are using it just your your HLT the default values after doing an auto-tune seemed to work fine.

If you are using it in a BK I changed my cycle rate "t" to 1. The rate was at two seconds which seemed to pulse the boil to much. I was running at 77% which would have power on for about 1.5 sec and off for .5, this would cause too aggressive of a boil then down to almost nothing. I also had to change my proportional constant "P" to one, otherwise the cycle rate would not go below two. Then I had to raise my derivative time "d" to 225 because it was overshooting the set value. Now I get a good constant boil at 70%.

I am unsure on the RTD as I have a thermocouple. I did have to change my input offset "pb" to read the proper temperature as it was off just like the post above. The only thing I didn't like was the temperature offset is not linear. This may be different with a RTD. Mine now reads spot on at 165 degrees, but on the low end, say actual temp 50 degrees it reads 55, and on the high end, boiling water it reads 215. If an RTD would correct this problem I may change.

Yes I'm using it for the HLT and BK. I hope the RTD doesn't have the same issues you are experiencing with the thermocouple. In changing those values for the BK did it affect anything when using it for the HLT??

enid said:

I am unsure on the RTD as I have a thermocouple. I did have to change my input offset "pb" to read the proper temperature as it was off just like the post above. The only thing I didn't like was the temperature offset is not linear. This may be different with a RTD. Mine now reads spot on at 165 degrees, but on the low end, say actual temp 50 degrees it reads 55, and on the high end, boiling water it reads 215. If an RTD would correct this problem I may change.

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You're right, the difference was not linear. I just took an average over several readings differences and that's why I set my PID to +6*F. My PID temperature reading from the RTD is pretty accurate now over the full range from ambient temperature to boiling temperature.

I have the exact same setup. I used mine last weekend. I only used it to control my BK, transferred by hand the hot water to the HLT. It was a major PITA, HLT element soon to come.

In order to get the PID to work manually you have to set the A-M setting looks more Like A-n when setting it though. Set it to "1" then hit set to accept this setting. Then you will be able to access the manual mode and then use Enids settings, which I will try myself this weekend.

illin8 said:

Yes I'm using it for the HLT and BK. I hope the RTD doesn't have the same issues you are experiencing with the thermocouple. In changing those values for the BK did it affect anything when using it for the HLT??

Click to expand...

The only thing I noticed was that it was just a little slower to respond when you changed temperature. Example if you changed the setpoint 20 degrees higher, before it would quickly go to 100% output where now it slowly ramps up to 100% output, but nothing that drastic.