Electric Keggle BK/HLT Controller

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yowbrew

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Greetings,

I am starting to look at converting to electric. Currently I use a converted sanke as a HLT and boil kettle along with a 48 qt cooler as a MLT.

While I have searched through many threads I can;t seem to find one that has a simple setup/schematic for a controller that will allow me to use PIDs to control the same kettle for both hlt and boiling. I'm sure there is a thread and I just haven;t found it yet!

Can anyone give me some suggestions? I will be looking to set it up with a 5500 240V element. Anyone that can comment on any special considerations with the Ontario electrical code would be useful also!
 
Am I reading this correctly, you want one pid controlling one kettle (which you will use for hlt and bk)? If this is the case, it's only a matter of adjusting the temperature setting...
 
Am I reading this correctly, you want one pid controlling one kettle (which you will use for hlt and bk)? If this is the case, it's only a matter of adjusting the temperature setting...

Adjusting the temp would be fine for heating the strike and sparge water, but that won't work for the boil. He'd need a PID with manual mode for the boil - the Auber 2352 would be ideal for that.
I agree that any of the e-BIAB threads floating around the electric forum would work well for this. Just make sure you have a GFCI breaker upstream from your panel to help protect you. P-J is definitely the man for diagrams.
 
Thanks for the replies - I didn't consider the E-BIAB option - I will have a look at those threads! The number of threads on electric kettles is overwhelming!!

@rosier9 That's exactly what I want to do - use it for strike water then to heat sparge water for batch sparging. Once the sparging it becomes the boil kettle. I guess down the road I will buy another vessel and then can have one dedicated to boiling - perhaps I can try to keep that in mind when making the control panel?
 
You guys honor me. Thanks..!

yowbrew,

The controller you need to make is pictured in the following diagram. It uses a single Auber Instrument PID SYL-2352. This PID has a normal mode for temperature control. It also has a manual mode that allows you to set it to a percent of power so that you can easily control the boil rate in your kettle. The same setup can be modified later on so that you can control 2 kettles with the one PID. You would simply add a second contactor and element setup. You would then just need to change out switch #1 to a 3-Position Selector Switch <Click it). Most all of the controller components can be secured from Auber Instruments, including the project box to house it.

Ok - now on to the usual: Click on the image to see a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17").




I hope this helps you in your adventure.

P-J

Note: I forgot to mention that I think it is critical for you to set up your brewery power using GFCI circuit protection. You can get a very good GE Spa Panel from HomeDepot.
 
Note: I forgot to mention that I think it is critical for you to set up your brewery power using GFCI circuit protection. You can get a very good GE Spa Panel from HomeDepot.

for a lot of reasons... personal safety being the top and P-J's estop wont work without it being the bottom
 
P-J

Thanks for the drawing - this is along the lines of what I am thinking of. Now I need to come to grips with the cost of the GFCI breaker - I checked here at home depot (In Canada) and they run close to $200! Anyone else in Canada find a cheaper price for CSA-listed breakers?
 
P-J

Thanks for the drawing - this is along the lines of what I am thinking of. Now I need to come to grips with the cost of the GFCI breaker - I checked here at home depot (In Canada) and they run close to $200! Anyone else in Canada find a cheaper price for CSA-listed breakers?
HomeDepot offers a GE Spa Panel with a 50A GFCI breaker in it for $50 in the US. You might want to look into that and see if they have it available for you in Canada. If not, maybe you could tap a friend in the US?

Wiring the panel for your brew area is really simple. I've posted a few set up diagrams for it.

P-J
 
Can you tell me why the #1 switch & the coil are in there?
Are they necessary?
Safety and control. The requirement was to have an indicator light to display that power was delivered to the element. (Switch has an indicator light) The particular switch can not carry the current needed to power the element, therefore, the contactor was put in place to solve the issue.
 
P-J

Thanks for the drawing - this is along the lines of what I am thinking of. Now I need to come to grips with the cost of the GFCI breaker - I checked here at home depot (In Canada) and they run close to $200! Anyone else in Canada find a cheaper price for CSA-listed breakers?

Come across the boarder and buy your stuff down here in Watertown, NY and I will give a beer or two while you are here!!! Save your self some money and make a fun trip...I am 15 miles from the boarder crossing in the Thousand Islands.
 
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