FG problem need advice

I am a new brewer, 4 batches so far and in need of some advice. I brewed 3 extract kits so far from Midwest: corona clone, Pikes IPA, Irish Red. All of the kits started out with SG right to what the kit said they would be. I have 2 hydrometers and checked FG's with both and they are the same reading. Each of the kit's FG's never droped below 1.020. I am always topping off to the 5 gallon mark and SG is on so I don't think too much water. I areated each batch diffrent and still the same end result, only diffrence was the time it took before activity stoped. I brewed each kit with the muntons dry 5g yeast packet and just pitching it into the wort after cooling and adding the top off water. With the IPA I rehydrated more yeast and pitched it after it was in secondary to see if it would wake up. It did show some activity, but not enough to make the gravity drop after 2 weeks. Input would be greatly appreciated TIA -Dave

EDIT: I thought I should add that each was fermented at 68*F, I brought them upstairs (70*F) to see if there would be a change and there was not.

Sounds like the malt extract is not fully fermentable. There is alot of variation from one manufacturer to the next. If you use kits you are stuck with whatever they provide. If you go out on your own you can try different brands to see what works best for you and a particular style. Being able to control your FG is one of the many advantages to going all grain.

You might try changing yeasts. I use Nottingham in my Haus Ale and it always ferments to 1.010 or less.

^ I just brewed a Old Castle clone and pictched a White labs WLP005 and it was dead from the start. Yesterday I pitched a Nottingham 11g packet. I guess this will let me know if I was under pitching, since I was using the muntons 5g packet before.

I would look to the Muntons yeast personally. I started out with those and I was never happy with them. I very much doubt you'll have the same problem with the Nottingham yeast you pitched.

I have been talking to a candian buddy about this too that has brewed for years and thinks that the yeast is to blame also, myself I am not sure what to think. it would be nice if someone could chime in that had similar problems to what I am having........

I should have been more specific I guess. When I said I wasn't very happy with the results, what I meant was that I had the same problem as you (though there were other factors with the Muntons as well).

I even had some halt as high as 1.030! I know it was the yeast and not the extract too because adding a champagne yeast (all I had) finished fermentation all the way down to 1.006 (not ideal but better than 1.030).

what are some of the other factors that you seen? Also how did you pitch the extra yeast? I did pitch some more muntons into 2 of the batches with out re-hydrating it, and it did nothing much. few bubbles here and there but it did not lower my FG at all.

Aside from attenuation problems, the other major thing I found was that the Muntons yeast - even at lower temperatures in the range - produced too many fruity esters for my taste. As for pitching the extra yeast, it was just a dried yeast packet so I just pulled out the airlock, tipped it all in and sealed it back up. If I'm going to rehydrate the yeast I figure just do it with the wort.

thanks brad for being so helpful

Update, I took a FG reading today when kegging the Old castle Batch 1.012. This was fermented with Nottinghamn yeast. I am hoping the yeast smell that is kickin this off for me, tastes like beer but has a funk smell. I dry hopped it with 1/2oz of cascade in the keg hoping to fix that anyone have more input on the yeast smell?

here is a thread I created on that topic https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=35869

Usually if there's a problem you will get a the bad smell AND bad taste. The dry hopping will probably take care of the aroma so I would just wait it out and try it in a couple weeks. It will probably end up being your best beer to date.

DaveT - My last four brews have been kits from Midwest Brewing. One of the workers there told me not to bother with the included yeast and recommended the Wyeast activator packs. I've never had an issue reaching the FG.

btw, that old castle is one tasty brew.

well before kegging it all I would notice was the funky smell, that is the reason why I was hoping it was the yeast smell. It has been in the keg 3 days force carbing and I turned down the pressure and poured a glass and noticed the smell has devleloped into a taste also. I could notice the aroma of the dry hop, but now a funk taste to go with the funk smell. I knew I should of not asked swmbo to help with her hands . I'll just blame it on her

I have fermented a few hevewiezens. Let me tell you yeast can kick off some foul offensive odors. Opened the door to my computer room(that's the room my brew closet is in) and it smelled like the most magnificent flatus any human could muster! The sulfur smell that filled the air was pungent and lingering. The SWMBO questioned wether or not to let me keep brewing that day. She even stated that the smell omitted by the little devils munchin down the sugars rivaled me of the worst of days!!! That batch of hefe was one of the better tasting beers I have made yet!!! Don't let a foul smell coming from a fermenter detour you from thinking that your brew will be good at all. Sometimes Yeast has to get something out of their system to do a great job!

:rockin: