Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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Did some researching on eBay since HD and Lowes don't seem to carry many 10 gallon coolers. I'm in no way affiliated with any of these, just trying to provide some help.


Orange Insulated Water Cooler - 10-Gallon $60.60 + shipping (10 Available)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Orange-Insulated-Water-Cooler-10-Gallon_W0QQitemZ370006913544QQihZ024QQcategoryZ25384QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m118


RUBBERMAID 10 Gallon Water Cooler - 20.8" h $63 + shipping (9 available)
http://cgi.ebay.com/RUBBERMAID-10-Gallon-Water-Cooler-20-8-h_W0QQitemZ180114840483QQihZ008QQcategoryZ25384QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m118


Gatorade: 10 Gallon Cooler (#362-10) $73 + shipping (18 available)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Gatorade-10-Gallon-Cooler-362-10_W0QQitemZ160152176412QQihZ006QQcategoryZ62136QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m118


Rubbermaid 10 Gallon Cooler $67.20 + shipping
http://www.terratech.net/product.asp?specific=jonrqrh0


Gott 10 gallon Cooler $41.95 + shipping
http://www.cspoutdoors.com/10galwatcool.html
 
senorfartman said:
Did some researching on eBay since HD and Lowes don't seem to carry many 10 gallon coolers. I'm in no way affiliated with any of these, just trying to provide some help.


Orange Insulated Water Cooler - 10-Gallon $60.60 + shipping (10 Available)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Orange-Insulated-Water-Cooler-10-Gallon_W0QQitemZ370006913544QQihZ024QQcategoryZ25384QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m118


RUBBERMAID 10 Gallon Water Cooler - 20.8" h $63 + shipping (9 available)
http://cgi.ebay.com/RUBBERMAID-10-Gallon-Water-Cooler-20-8-h_W0QQitemZ180114840483QQihZ008QQcategoryZ25384QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m118


Gatorade: 10 Gallon Cooler (#362-10) $73 + shipping (18 available)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Gatorade-10-Gallon-Cooler-362-10_W0QQitemZ160152176412QQihZ006QQcategoryZ62136QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m118


Rubbermaid 10 Gallon Cooler $67.20 + shipping
http://www.terratech.net/product.asp?specific=jonrqrh0


Gott 10 gallon Cooler $41.95 + shipping
http://www.cspoutdoors.com/10galwatcool.html
Do you have an Ace Hardware near your house? I ordered one from there online and it cost ~$52.00. I had to go to the store to pick it up. The shipping was free though.
 
Does anyon know if an engineered polymer braid would work instead of the stainless steel one? I ask because I have one on hand.
 
I haven't had a problem with my plastic braid yet. I removed the inside vinyl tube and cut notches in it, then slipped the vinyl braid back over the tube. Sort of making a braid covered manifold. The inner tube keeps the braid from collapsing. Just take the inside tube, and cut V shaped notches with a pair of electrical wire cutters.

-J
 
It wouldn't stay attached. Once the tubing warmed up it didn't stay put long, but the braid actually floats, so the combination of floating and not being firmly attached didn't mix well.

The sheer weight of the stainless steel is what made the difference for me (thought I did later also add cables to hold the plastic tubing in places.
 
Just thought I'd add something here, I just made one of these and did it a bit different, this may have been mentioned before but lots of pages to go through. BTW this is a igloo cooler orange 10 gallon dunno if that makes a difference

1. I used a 1/2x2 inch nipple over the 3/8" it fit PERFECT into the hole that the spigot came out of. I used the plastic seal from the spout on the inside and the rubber one from the spigot on the outside.

This required more washers I found M20 metric ones to fit almost there so I rolled up 8 of em (1 for inside 7 for outside) in some tape, like a role of coins, to hold em together and opened em up a bit with a dremel and a file. Took about 5 mins.

I assembled accordingly to the original plans using larger ball valve and barb fittings to fit the nipple.

For the line I used 3/4" and I cut a 2 half inch to 1 inch pieces of 5/8" OD hose and crammed em in each end of the braid and stuck one on the inside barb and a plug in the other end. this way they fit really snug but no clamps and no hose inside the braid.

Checked it for leaks and all is good going to brew with it next week so I'll find out if that hose/braid will stay put. btw the inside barb fits the 5/8" line and the outside fits standard 3/8".
 
I was able to find SS washers at my HD so I went ahead and put this together today. I also made the ring mesh design described in Palmers book. I tested it with water and so far no leaks.

Looking back, I wish I had ordered the kewler adapter and the false bottom, it would have been about the same price, less time, and less trips to HD.
 
I just about got mine put together with a 48qt rectangular cooler today. Only problem was Lowe's didn't have 5/8" washers so I grabbed the 3/4" thinking they would work ok. Nope. Too much wiggle room and it leaked like mad. Oh well, one more trip to HD or Lowes should do the trick. I'm so excited to brew a big beer with this when it's done!:rockin:
 
bluelou6 said:
Looking back, I wish I had ordered the kewler adapter and the false bottom, it would have been about the same price, less time, and less trips to HD.

I'm not arguing with you, but I am a little confused, as I haven't heard many people say that.

I think mine was 5.50 for the valve, 3.50 for the hose, 8.00 in misc fittings and rubber washers.... so about $17. I just did a straight line, though, not a ring.

from Northern Brewer, it'd be at least $36 plus shipping..... and that's just for the Kewler Kit. The false bottom is almost $20 additional.
 
I noticed something when I filled up my newly completed 48qt rectangular cooler mash tun. There was about 1/4-1/2 gallon left in the bottom that didn't drain out. Is this normal and to be expected or are there any improvements I can make to get every last drop?

Here's a picture of the braid.

CellarDoorFamily
 
Bromley said:
I noticed something when I filled up my newly completed 48qt rectangular cooler mash tun. There was about 1/4-1/2 gallon left in the bottom that didn't drain out. Is this normal and to be expected or are there any improvements I can make to get every last drop?

Here's a picture of the braid.

CellarDoorFamily

I think you can expect to leave some wort behind with this kind of setup. When the MLT is draining, it can only drain to the lowest point in the system that will let air into the drain.

You might be able to modify the piping where you transition to the braid in your MLT. If you put a piece of S curved tubing at the transition point in your drain, it should position your braid so it is laying flat against the bottom. You then should be able to drain off a little more wort before your drain system sucks air.
 
Im going right now to get the parts to build my MLT already have the cooler, 10 gal rectangular coleman I need to know ASAP if these sized fittings and parts will work in my cooler.
 
RICLARK said:
Im going right now to get the parts to build my MLT already have the cooler, 10 gal rectangular coleman I need to know ASAP if these sized fittings and parts will work in my cooler.

Worked for mine.
 
FlyGuy said:
UPDATE:

I took my MLT out today to clean it up for a brew session, and noticed that the hose clamps on the stainless steel braid didn't look so good

Fly Guy, did you ever get that corrosion figured out? I'm intrigued here. Here are the possibilities as I see it (there may be others, and I may be off here):

1) the clamp weren't really all stainless, especially the screws
2) something in the environment. stainless depends on the presence of oxygen to maintain the passivation layer. Did you also notice any corrosion on your SS fender washer inside the tank or on the hose itself, that would appear to rule out this possibility. Look especially at any confined spaces like the tight weave of the SS hose, for any signs of corrosion.
3) galvanic corrosion between the brass and stainless(?) clamps.
 
Kevin Dean said:
I scrounged and scrounged. :) Both Home Depots in Frederick, a Lowes in Frederick and a Home Depot in Alexandria - no washer. :(

Back when Lowes was Eagle they had a great hardware section.

Today, Lowes and Homer's hardware sections can be charitably described as a cruel joke.
 
njnear76 said:
It's important to check the screw on these clamps, because many cheaper stainless steel clamps come with a non-stainless steel screw. I think that is the problem that flyguy and others ran into.

Ah okay, that's the most plausible explanation.

One other option may be automotive screwless clamps, stainless. These are the clamps that you can open with pliers squeezing on the bent-up tabs. I'm not sure what the proper name is and if they come in stainless.
 
Yes, it was just the screws. So I think they were just cheap clamps -- the clamp itself was obviously SS and not corroding, but the screws were plated. Lots of other people have had luck with them, so I think the best bet is to just give them a shot and keep an eye on them. Otherwise, you can resort to the method I suggested with a hose insert (works fabulously), or use plastic zip ties or plastic clamps. You could also look for Oetiker clamps (I think that was what you were referring to, vmpolesov) in stainless steel. They would be great if you could find them.

Cheers! :mug:
 
I am in the process of upgrading my cooler...yesterday I bought a[n obvious] weldless bulkhead and a brewmometer....put the bulkhead in yesterday, sealed it up with some silicone, and am waiting for it to setup....should be done later this evening, with a picture to follow :)
 
I got a Coleman Extreme, it measures 9 1/4"x24"x 12" deep( inside). Would this be too big for 5 Gal. Batches? (Palmer recommends 9"x14"x10") Plan to put 1/2" copper manifold, 1/2"x2 1/2"+Brass Nipple, 1/2" Brass ball Valve and 1/2" Brass barb. Three runners and three Cross overs, Drain from the middle and out the bulkhead.
 
Just spent the last 2 1/2 hours putting my Damn MLT together ( 10 gal Coleman Rectangel) Filled it with Hot water and it has friggin leak from behind the Washers and Im baffled I can't Tighten the fittings any tighter than they are The only thing I can Figure is I got them too Tight and Rolled a gasket. Anyone out there with some Input I would Appreciate it Im about to throw the damn thing off the Balcony. Any help for me Im gonna start taking it apart tomorrow morning and see what I can do with it cause I was hoping to brew tomorrow morning.
 
RICLARK said:
Just spent the last 2 1/2 hours putting my Damn MLT together ( 10 gal Coleman Rectangel) Filled it with Hot water and it has friggin leak from behind the Washers and Im baffled I can't Tighten the fittings any tighter than they are The only thing I can Figure is I got them too Tight and Rolled a gasket. Anyone out there with some Input I would Appreciate it Im about to throw the damn thing off the Balcony. Any help for me Im gonna start taking it apart tomorrow morning and see what I can do with it cause I was hoping to brew tomorrow morning.

Take it apart, silicone the snot out of it and re-assemble.
 
Yep, you can definitely overtighten them. Back off and try again. It should work, even in a rectangular cooler. ;)
 
Just built a 36 qt rectangular.

It leaks a couple of drops every 1/2 hr. Should I accept that - or there will be some mashing fluid captured in the inner wall... aging in there?


Other: not to be an EAC, but inside, there is no *positive* seal between the barb piece hex end and the SS washer, really. What prevents fluid from passing through that, then into the washer center hole, into wall?

(on my setup, I have a garden hose inserted btwn the two pieces, at the moment)

EDIT/ADD: Found approximate SS washer at True Value, enlarged I.D. with Dremel...
 
beergears said:
Yes, the white rubbery seal sticking to the wall.

Does not change metal-to-metal issue at the washer/brass part though...
I am not sure I understand what you mean. On the Rubbermaid round coolers, the factory seal encloses the entire hole through the cooler, and the SS washer keeps it snug against the inside cooler wall. It doesn't matter if any liquid seeps between the brass nipple and washer. But maybe I am misunderstanding what you are saying. ???
 
beergears said:
Yes, the white rubbery seal sticking to the wall.

Does not change metal-to-metal issue at the washer/brass part though...

If it doesn't leak, no problem, if it does, perhaps another washer to get a better seal.

For all those who are looking for parts but don't have a Lowes, HD or decent hardware store nearby, check this out:

http://www.greatbargain.net/order/shop2.html

Discount fittings for homebrewers.
 
FlyGuy said:
I am not sure I understand what you mean. On the Rubbermaid round coolers, the factory seal encloses the entire hole through the cooler, and the SS washer keeps it snug against the inside cooler wall. It doesn't matter if any liquid seeps between the brass nipple and washer. But maybe I am misunderstanding what you are saying. ???


FG, here is how my setup looks on the Coleman 36 qt:

mycolemansetup.jpg


The cooler sealing does not go all the way through the wall as the rubbermaid's , apparently.

I am using a garden hose washer where barb connector meets SS washer, to do something about the metal-metal (no seal) situation.
Now, it is virtually leak-proof but not quite, hence my question about having a tiny bit of organic fluid seeping (OK), but also getting trapped in there...
 
Nice diagram! That helps a lot.

On my MLT, the original seal from the cooler is VERY snug around the pipe nipple, so nothing is going to leak past that. Also, the SS washer holds the 'lip' of that seal tight to the cooler wall, so nothing can get past that way. So in essence, the entire pipe nipple (i.e., bulkhead) has a positive seal to the cooler wall, making a seal between the nipple and the inner barb unnecessary.

I am guessing that your cooler seal doesn't fit snug to the pipe nipple? If not, then I understand your concern. If that were the case, I would simply use a larger nipple (although, I guess that means replacing all the hardware if you step up to 1/2" fittings, which might not be possible now). Another option (in addition to your own) would be to use some food-grade silicone adhesive and fill the gap between the brass nipple and the seal through the cooler wall.

Cheers! :mug:
 
I'm building a manifold for a 48Q Coleman and the 3/4" pipe nipple seems to fit quite snug with Coleman ome rubber washer. Haven't found SS washers to test for leaks yet.
 
I just build my mash tun today, and had to settle for regular 5/8" washers plus a rubber 5/8" washer on the inside.....so eventually I have got to get that washer replaced with a SS one. I used the 10 gal. igloo model and had to use quite a few washers to keep all my hardware snug. Pretty pissed once I finished and found a leak, but then realized I forgot the O ring. So besides that, a very long scavenger hunt for parts and metal shavings flying at my face while cutting the water supply hose it was a smooth operation. Thanks to this very easy and understandable post it gave me the motivation I needed to go out and do it. One week I will be in my new apartment starting off with my first AG batch. My new place is literally one block from what will be my new LHBS.
 
Picked up all my parts for this today, except for the SS braid. Forgive my ignorance but I was unsure as what to get at my local Lowes, is this braid just the outer shell to a water line connector like this one?:

http://tinyurl.com/382paj

Thanks!
 
Yep, that's the one. Tip, a Dremel cuts that really easily. Others have used hacksaws or jigsaws with success.
 
chriso said:
Yep, that's the one. Tip, a Dremel cuts that really easily. Others have used hacksaws or jigsaws with success.

Thanks Chriso! I was looking right at those today but it seemed to me that the wort would not pass throught that outer SS braid, guess I was wrong! :) :mug:
 
It'll make more sense once you get the inner hose out. Beware, though, the metal ends of the braid HURT if you jam your finger on them!

As you're taking it apart, think of a chinese finger trap, then do exactly that, but with the hose inside as your "fingers" in the trap.
 
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