Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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For anyone living near a Menard's. they have a 5 gallon RubberMaid beverage cooler for $20 with a $10 rebate. I know that this is not the size given in this thread but for people who have limited space it might be usefull.

I went and picked up 2 of them the other day, still need to test if they are water tight
 
I went and picked up 2 of them the other day, still need to test if they are water tight

I just built one to use as an HLT using the $10 menards 5-gal...used exact same parts as the 10-gallon, except for the SS braid, obviously. Leak free w/ my hottest tap water. I did have to use like 5 or 6 5/8" washers, though - I think the wall of the 5-gal is thinner than the 10-gal.
 
I just built one to use as an HLT using the $10 menards 5-gal...used exact same parts as the 10-gallon, except for the SS braid, obviously. Leak free w/ my hottest tap water. I did have to use like 5 or 6 5/8" washers, though - I think the wall of the 5-gal is thinner than the 10-gal.

I used 1 on the inside and 5 on the outside, Menards actually had 5/8" washers and good thing they sold them in 6 packs
 
Not sure if this has been mentioned or not, but if the hold for the spigot is not drilled dead center in the recessed area where the 5/8 inch washer goes, you're screwed. The idea of the washer is to hold the entire assembly in place so if the hole is drilled off center, the washers will not do their job. Just wasted money on a damn cooler with spigot hole drilled too low.
 
Not sure if this has been mentioned or not, but if the hold for the spigot is not drilled dead center in the recessed area where the 5/8 inch washer goes, you're screwed. The idea of the washer is to hold the entire assembly in place so if the hole is drilled off center, the washers will not do their job. Just wasted money on a damn cooler with spigot hole drilled too low.

Can't you just plug the hole with a rubber stopper and drill a new hole? That should work out fine.
 
Hey everyone, probably a dumb question, but I'm not entirely sure of the answer, so I'll ask anyway. Do the SS fender washers need to slip over the middle part of the nipple? The washers I found slip over the threaded part, but not the unthreaded, middle, section.

This seems to create a space between the outside washers and the outside of the cooler. I'm unable to get a snug fit because of this and the cooler leaks. The way it is now, the unit can move front to back a little bit. Thanks in advance.
 
Hey everyone, probably a dumb question, but I'm not entirely sure of the answer, so I'll ask anyway. Do the SS fender washers need to slip over the middle part of the nipple? The washers I found slip over the threaded part, but not the unthreaded, middle, section.

This seems to create a space between the outside washers and the outside of the cooler. I'm unable to get a snug fit because of this and the cooler leaks. The way it is now, the unit can move front to back a little bit. Thanks in advance.

I think this might depend on how long your threaded nipple is. On mine, the stainless steel washer (1) on the inside doesn't slip all the way to the center of the nipple, but only up to the threads. I think no matter how long or short your threaded nipple is, you need to pull it outward, and add enough steel washers on the outside to make it a snug fit.
 
I snugged mine up by adding more washers and o rings. The o rings will fit over that non threaded section. To answer your question, no the washers do not fit over the nonthreaded part.
 
steinsato said:
I snugged mine up by adding more washers and o rings. The o rings will fit over that non threaded section. To answer your question, no the washers do not fit over the nonthreaded part.

On mine the washers fit over the non threaded section, the washers compress the o ring and I dont exactly understand how you would be able to get a snug enough fit to get it to not leak without having it that way.
 
On mine the washers fit over the non threaded section, the washers compress the o ring and I dont exactly understand how you would be able to get a snug enough fit to get it to not leak without having it that way.

Thanks everyone for your input. I think I'm in the same boat as scottiws. If I pull everything outward so that the inside washer is snug to the inside wall, I can't get the outside washers to touch the cooler and make a snug fit. There's maybe a half inche gap between the washer and the cooler.

With the cooler and parts that I have, I think the washers (at least some of them) need to fit over the unthreaded portion of the nipple, or I need to find a shorter nipple piece. I guess not all 5/8 SS fender washers are created equal. I got the exact part number nipple piece as the OP, and the washers at an Ace Hardware store. I'll have to try a different hardware store, or wait until Monday when I can go to Fastenal and see what they have.
 
Pie_Man said:
Thanks everyone for your input. I think I'm in the same boat as scottiws. If I pull everything outward so that the inside washer is snug to the inside wall, I can't get the outside washers to touch the cooler and make a snug fit. There's maybe a half inche gap between the washer and the cooler.

With the cooler and parts that I have, I think the washers (at least some of them) need to fit over the unthreaded portion of the nipple, or I need to find a shorter nipple piece. I guess not all 5/8 SS fender washers are created equal. I got the exact part number nipple piece as the OP, and the washers at an Ace Hardware store. I'll have to try a different hardware store, or wait until Monday when I can go to Fastenal and see what they have.

Got my ss washers at true value if there is one of them by you
 
Thanks everyone for your input. I think I'm in the same boat as scottiws. If I pull everything outward so that the inside washer is snug to the inside wall, I can't get the outside washers to touch the cooler and make a snug fit. There's maybe a half inche gap between the washer and the cooler.

With the cooler and parts that I have, I think the washers (at least some of them) need to fit over the unthreaded portion of the nipple, or I need to find a shorter nipple piece. I guess not all 5/8 SS fender washers are created equal. I got the exact part number nipple piece as the OP, and the washers at an Ace Hardware store. I'll have to try a different hardware store, or wait until Monday when I can go to Fastenal and see what they have.

I followed this material list and instructions to the T. I needed 7, 5/8 SS washers and I used 2, O rings on each side. (Instructions said 1) so I would assume all coolers are not the same. Maybe the width of the wall changes from year to year / model *shrugs*

I suggest purchasing a 10pack from McMastercar. The 3 extra are used for weighting down dry hops :mug:
 
If anyone has issues with the ID of the fender washers being too small, try filing the ID to make it larger. I, too, had issues getting the fender washers to fit over the non-threaded part of the nipple, but after a bit of elbow-grease, I filed them enough to fit over the threads. My MLT has 1 SS washer+1 o-ring inside and 2 galvanized steel fenders outside. The assembly is very sturdy, has never leaked, and I'm very happy with it.

I believe this is the file I have.
 
I now have cooler mash tun success! Thank you OP and everyone for their assistance.

A store near my house had 5/8 SS fender washers that snuggly fit over the unthreaded part of the nipple. I ended up using one washer on the inside, two rubber o-rings, and six washers on the outside, three of them being the washers that didn't fit over the unthreaded part. Just finished testing for leaks and everything works great. Like some others, I also needed to mount the ball valve upside down to allow it to close properly, but that's fine.

Thanks again :mug:
 
FINALLY!

Built my mashtun this weekend, using a braid. This weekend will be my first batch using it.

I can finally retire my zapap mashtun!

577340_3255573275687_1457736603_32398630_9462274_n.jpg


485687_3255578435816_1457736603_32398641_1176015652_n.jpg
 
Where's the best place to pick up the high temp/food grade vinyl tubing? I'm guessing maybe a kitchen supply store or online?
 
I didn't bother to read through all 218 pages of this post, so this may have already been discussed... I went to Lowes to get everything and their igloo cooler was set up to accept everything in half inch size. This made it really ready to build a pvc drainage system. I'm filling it up as I write this for a leak test! Exited to try it out once my cherry almonds wheat finishes primary ferm
 
I didn't even think of that I bought the cooler at lowes cuz I had a $50 gift card so the cooler only cost me $0.97 after tax :) but I bought all the 3/8" stuff so I'll have to go home and measure
 
ForumRunner_20120524_112058.jpg

Just thought I'd post a pic of my cooler tun. A buddy made me beer labels so I slapped one on over the home depot logo. I had to do the upside down valve thing so the drain closes all the way, no biggie.
 
FINALLY!

Built my mashtun this weekend, using a braid. This weekend will be my first batch using it.

I can finally retire my zapap mashtun!

577340_3255573275687_1457736603_32398630_9462274_n.jpg


485687_3255578435816_1457736603_32398641_1176015652_n.jpg

Are you going to be doing batch or fly sparging?

I wanted to get into fly sparging but the SS mesh seemed like such a cheap and easy way to make it. I wonder if fly sparging would work with a longer SS mesh that was made into a loop. Does anyone know if it would be more effective to use that T piece to connect the mesh to make it circular? I just wanted to loop the mesh around and use some metal wire to hold it.

I tried to find ways to make a circular manifold since I have a round cooler but no luck. Maybe I should fork out the money for a false bottom
 
I just built this as my first DIY project. It was actually much easier than I was expecting. I'm not very mechanically-savvy, but I can follow directions... No leaks, drains perfectly.

I picked up a 10gal cooler at home depot. It has a big home depot logo on it instead of the usual rubbermaid one, but it was only $40 (I saw them elsewhere for $60-70). The parts were about $35, maybe $40. (When shipping is factored in, it was about as expensive as buying a kit from bargain fittings.)

I had difficulty finding the 5/8 SS fender washers -- actually I had difficulty finding 5/8 fender washers period. I did some substitution. I found 5/8 neoprene washers that are both waterproof and heat resistant. I used one on the inside in place of the SS washer. On the outside of the cooler, I used two neoprene fender washers with a 5/8 zinc cut washer in place of three fender washers. It isn't as steady as going all metal and twists a little in the rubber fitting on the inside when you turn it on and off, but there's no leaking after letting water sit for 30 min and not a drop when I turned it on and off.

Thanks a million to the OP and the clear directions and pictures on this!!

So would you recommend buying the valve/spigot kit from a homebrew site or actually buying all of the parts? If its not saving me a ton, I think it would be best to just buy as a kit to save time, energy, gas, etc.
 
Just got my mash run built! HD or Lowes didn't have SS washers but actually found that pdx has a couple Fastenal stores around town and bought a 10 pack. The extras will be used for 2nd ferm dry hoping! Also I coiled up some copper wire and inserted it into the braided stainless steel line for support so I hopefully won't have any collapse issues. Excited to try it out this weekend! Thx HBT!!!

image-3728221575.jpg


image-975187448.jpg


image-334230642.jpg
 
I wanted to get into fly sparging but the SS mesh seemed like such a cheap and easy way to make it. I wonder if fly sparging would work with a longer SS mesh that was made into a loop. Does anyone know if it would be more effective to use that T piece to connect the mesh to make it circular? I just wanted to loop the mesh around and use some metal wire to hold it.

I tried to find ways to make a circular manifold since I have a round cooler but no luck. Maybe I should fork out the money for a false bottom

geeyoupee,
See the link below to see what I did. It's shown in my 5 gallon tun but I've since upgraded to 10 gallon and moved it over. It makes a nice circle in the larger tun. Works great.
-mark-

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ch...lt-conversion-23008/index213.html#post3873513

.
 
Are you going to be doing batch or fly sparging?

I wanted to get into fly sparging but the SS mesh seemed like such a cheap and easy way to make it. I wonder if fly sparging would work with a longer SS mesh that was made into a loop. Does anyone know if it would be more effective to use that T piece to connect the mesh to make it circular? I just wanted to loop the mesh around and use some metal wire to hold it.

I tried to find ways to make a circular manifold since I have a round cooler but no luck. Maybe I should fork out the money for a false bottom

Check out what I did....See my description here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ch...lt-conversion-23008/index173.html#post3259141
 
barrooze said:

So why cant we use this stuff for our hot water temp applications in our brewery then? It says its rated for 250 deg. And i think you see alot of this stuff used in drinkable water applications.

So has anyone actually proven one way or another if this is safe to use or not? Or is it all still speculation?
 
So if I don't want to shop around for all of the parts, really all I need to go is to that barginfittings to get the entire spigot/ball valve, replace the stock spigot, buy a braid and screw into the coupling of the new spigot...?
 
So why cant we use this stuff for our hot water temp applications in our brewery then? It says its rated for 250 deg. And i think you see alot of this stuff used in drinkable water applications.

So has anyone actually proven one way or another if this is safe to use or not? Or is it all still speculation?

Boil a couple feet of that hose in a gallon of water, then drink the water. If you think it tastes fine, use it.
 
Many thanks for a great thread! I'm happy to say that I put one of these together today and can't wait to use it on brew day! :mug:

Did you use the direction from page 1 of this thread? I'm looking to build one but so many pages to browse for the newest instruction. :)
 
Did you use the direction from page 1 of this thread? I'm looking to build one but so many pages to browse for the newest instruction. :)

I followed those instructions pretty much to the "T". I printed out a parts list and went to Home Depot...the product numbers made it pretty easy. As you see throughout the thread the 5/8 SS Fender Washers are the fly in ointment. I ordered mine from Fastenal (had to order 10). Pretty simple build really. Can't wait to break her in!
 
I built this ( part numbers made shopping a breeze)and sourced my as washers from a speciality bolt supply. Cheap find so I built two. I plan to reconfig my 5 gal and use that for a fly sparge tank or for the occasional small beer I do I the house as opposed to outside... Works like a dream
 
I followed those instructions pretty much to the "T". I printed out a parts list and went to Home Depot...the product numbers made it pretty easy. As you see throughout the thread the 5/8 SS Fender Washers are the fly in ointment. I ordered mine from Fastenal (had to order 10). Pretty simple build really. Can't wait to break her in!

So my understanding per the original instructions are that you need (4) of the 5/8 SS washers. Or is the 3 x 5/8 fender washer than the first one listed.

Another question for the thread, in experiences are you better off waiting until fall to buy the 10g cooler for summer ending clearance? I'm not going to make any transition to AG immediately so I could afford to wait if I could get half price.
 
natefrog255 said:
So my understanding per the original instructions are that you need (4) of the 5/8 SS washers. Or is the 3 x 5/8 fender washer than the first one listed.

Another question for the thread, in experiences are you better off waiting until fall to buy the 10g cooler for summer ending clearance? I'm not going to make any transition to AG immediately so I could afford to wait if I could get half price.

You will need 4 total SS 5/8 Fender washers.

In regards to waiting to buy the cooler, I paid $45 for mine. I felt like it was too pricey and would have to believe that if you waited until fall you could get one on clearance...just don't wait too long or they could be gone again until next year.

My total cost on the build was about $75. Not too bad really for what you get. I'd say if you're not immediately moving to AG, wait and catch that cooler on sale. You could probably save $20 or so.
 
You will need 4 total SS 5/8 Fender washers.

In regards to waiting to buy the cooler, I paid $45 for mine. I felt like it was too pricey and would have to believe that if you waited until fall you could get one on clearance...just don't wait too long or they could be gone again until next year.

My total cost on the build was about $75. Not too bad really for what you get. I'd say if you're not immediately moving to AG, wait and catch that cooler on sale. You could probably save $20 or so.

I built one of these last weekend. I ended up having to use 6 washers and 2 o-rings to get rid of leaks.

Ace Hardware has a whole section of SS parts. Give them a try if you have one around.
 
I built one of these last weekend. I ended up having to use 6 washers and 2 o-rings to get rid of leaks.

Funny you mention that. I was having leaks too with the build as it was written. I just kept tightening it down as much as I could and finally got it there...took some work, but it's rock solid now.
 
I just wanted to say thanks to the OP and every one else who posted advice in this thread. i took the parts list to home depot and got everything i needed.Built the MT at home and looking forward to my 1st AG brew this weekend! wish me luck.
 
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