American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

I keep getting everyones opinions and it's making me even more excited for mine to ready. Too bad I'm just bottling it this weekend.... That's 3 weeks in the primary and straight to bottles.

I just picked up the ingredients for another ten gallons. This was my first all grain recipe and it was a huge hit. I have to get more in the pipeline or there could b trouble. Cheer to ED for this great recipe.

Get to bottle it this weekend...yay.

Too bad most of it will be drunk at my companies xmas party. I'm out of beer, and i can't drink this batch.

Pipeline fail.

makomachine said:

It's highly quafable and the perfect gateway ale for the non-craft beer drinkers.

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There ya go. That is one of the main objectives of the recipe. It's really helped move those poor souls from the dark side of BMC.

Just put this in the keg. It was my first AG batch, so I figured it should also be my first kegged batch.

I dry hopped with 2 oz of Simcoe. That was my only change.

Tasted awesome going into the keg. I'm glad because this is my most expensive beer. Between the burner and kettle, mash tun, HLT, and keg setup, I've got about $400 into this beer alone! Itll even out after several more brews. But it's worth it. Loved this recipe. Great intro to AG and kegging!

I've got 5 gallons of this in the fermentor - Pitched with Nottingham 10/10 and has been fermenting in my chamber since at 67. Most of the yeast has settled to the bottom but there is still a slight layer of chunky yeast covering the top. My chamber is temperature controlled, but temps dropped down to 63 for a day or two prior to adding a heat source.

I haven't seen this any other time I've used Nottingham. I haven't had a chance to check gravity yet, but I'm gonna give it another week either way. Any experience with a similar scenario? Should I wait for it all to drop or just cold crash as usual at the 3 week mark?

HopheadNJ said:

I've got 5 gallons of this in the fermentor - Pitched with Nottingham 10/10 and has been fermenting in my chamber since at 67. Most of the yeast has settled to the bottom but there is still a slight layer of chunky yeast covering the top. My chamber is temperature controlled, but temps dropped down to 63 for a day or two prior to adding a heat source.

I haven't seen this any other time I've used Nottingham. I haven't had a chance to check gravity yet, but I'm gonna give it another week either way. Any experience with a similar scenario? Should I wait for it all to drop or just cold crash as usual at the 3 week mark?

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I fermented at 62 - Notty can handle the lower temp without a problem. Yeast floaters happen - as long as you reach FG ok, no worries.

I brewed the PM version of this recipe on Monday.

Most of the action has already stopped in the ale pail. Now the real waiting begins...no visible signs of progress, but I know good things are happening in there so I have to be patient.

Thanks for the recipe Ed. I'll let you know how it turns out.

With the price of Nottingham hitting $4 and higher, I am brewing my next 15 gallon batch with a vial of WLP005.

WLP005 British Ale Yeast
This yeast is a little more attenuative than WLP002. Like most English strains, this yeast produces malty beers. Excellent for all English style ales including bitter, pale ale, porter, and brown ale.
Attenuation: 67-74%
Flocculation: High
Optimum fermentation temperature: 65-70°F
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium

http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp005.html

I used US-05, becasue that is all i have ever used, I haven't had any problems yet, and best of all it's cheap. Thanks again for the recipe.

Pdeezy said:

I used US-05, becasue that is all i have ever used, I haven't had any problems yet, and best of all it's cheap. Thanks again for the recipe.

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I did some with WLP001 and it was great - I think it it basically the same yeast as US-05

This came out incredibly clear, and significantly more tasty than I expected. This will definitely be a hit at the company Xmas party which I brewed it for! Just enough flavor to keep me happy, and not so much that it will turn people away.

I can't get over how clear it is.

This wwill definitely be in my summer pipeline.

mine too! & I knox gelled mine! clearest beer yet!

Man this sample is killer ..thanks again for the recipe!

EdWort said:

With the price of Nottingham hitting $4 and higher, I am brewing my next 15 gallon batch with a vial of WLP005.

WLP005 British Ale Yeast
This yeast is a little more attenuative than WLP002. Like most English strains, this yeast produces malty beers. Excellent for all English style ales including bitter, pale ale, porter, and brown ale.
Attenuation: 67-74%
Flocculation: High
Optimum fermentation temperature: 65-70°F
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium

http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp005.html

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Ed, on the off chance you have not used this yeast before I would advise against making a 15 gallon batch, I personally can not stand the flavor it imparts, it's fruity but not in a good way, and I can't explain it any better than that. I do however love 007 and also like 002 for english yeast.

This was my first attempt at Brew in A bag and I'm really happy with it. Simple, fresh and light with just enough hops. it came out really clear even though I put little to no effort in that aspect of it besides 4 days at 33* before bottling.

Has anybody used this base recipe and modified the hops? It might be a simple way to explore different hop profiles and still get great beer.

Just to confirm, the hop schedule is for a full boil correct?

I plan on giving the mini-mash a shot soon. What should the pre-boil volume be for a full boil (5 gal batch)?

pm5k00 said:

Ed, on the off chance you have not used this yeast before I would advise against making a 15 gallon batch, I personally can not stand the flavor it imparts, it's fruity but not in a good way, and I can't explain it any better than that. I do however love 007 and also like 002 for english yeast.

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Thanks for the advice. I just found this at White Labs site. I wonder if this would be the proper replacement.

http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp039.html

WLP039 Nottingham Ale Yeast
British style ale yeast with a very dry finish. Medium to low fruit and fusel alcohol production. Good top fermenting yeast strain, is well suited for top cropping (collecting). This yeast is well suited for pale ales, ambers, porters, and stouts.
Attenuation: 73-82%
Flocculation: Medium to High
Ideal Fermentation Temperature: 66-70°F
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium

Reviews:
Write your own review

"Greatly recommended"
By: Marcelo Paniagua
Date: June 26, 2007
Beers Brewed: ESB
Comments: Great strain, gives a high attenuation rate and exceptional clear beer. Taste is neutral, low fruitness... greatly recommended if you want a clear beer without filtration. I used in an ESB, Fermented in the 66 -69 F, gave an attenuation rate of 82 %, OG 1.052, FG 1.009.

brew2enjoy said:

Just to confirm, the hop schedule is for a full boil correct?

I plan on giving the mini-mash a shot soon. What should the pre-boil volume be for a full boil (5 gal batch)?

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Yes and preboil depends on your boil rate. I would start with 6 gallons.

EdWort said:

Yes and preboil depends on your boil rate. I would start with 6 gallons.

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Sounds good. I'll give it a shot!

Bottled mine up tonight. It's going to be hard to wait 3 weeks to try!!!

Made 10 gallons of this and am about 1/2 way through the first 5 gallon keg. I even used some of my homegrown hops from this year. Its very good! I dry hopped the second 5 gallons with 1 oz of Cascade and I think I like it even better. I tasted a sample while transferring it to a keg tonight. Yummy! Thanks EdWort!

I just checked mine after 2 weeks in the bucket. It finished at 1.014. The hydro sample was a little banana-ish, but I had some temp issues on the first day. I'm going to leave it in the fermenter for another week before I bottle and hopefully some of the fruity esters will work themselves out.

The color is nice though, and I'm excited to get these bottled. I'm trying to decide if I want to dry hop or not.

I think an oz of Cascade will cover up some of my mistakes, and acefaser seemed to like it.

EdWort,

So, lets see... I have 5 gallons of Apfelwein that is conditioning in a carboy (about 2 months in now), your Bavarian Hefe in the keg, and NOW I have to make your Haus Pale Ale!!! Thank you very much for your awesome recipes!

I thought maybe I had an issue with the Hefe, but now I figured out it was my lack of patience. Very good beer! Want to try again soon, maybe even try a neutral yeast strain, see what happens!

Anyways, again, thanks for providing us with great recipes. Will post when I get a chance to brew again; I believe that this is going to be my next brew!

Ryan M.

So my homegrown Cascade version turned out stellar. I was a little underwhelmed at first, but after giving it a few weeks in the keg to fully carb, it is tremendous. Not as bitter as I would have imagined for a pale ale, but my cascade could be on the weak side (didn't get an AA test). Overall i am impressed and will be brewing this again next year (and most likely a couple times in between with lhbs hops, hehe).

So the ingredients I ordered are on the way and will hopefully have a batch going this weekend. The Cascades I ordered are 7.5% so I will have back those off a little. Also I was considering trying First Wort Hopping with this for the first time. I was going to add the 30 and 15 minute hop additions in with the 1st runnings and keep the 60 and 5 min as planned. Has anyone tried this with the Haus Ale?

Any thoughts or comments are appreciated!

Wouldn't that make the beer much more bitter? In effect, your 60 minute, 30 minute, and 15 minute additions will all be boiled for 60 minutes. I would expect, with my very limited experience, that you would end up with a much more bitter beer with less hop aroma and flavor. Of course, that may very well be what you're after. I brewed this exactly to the recipe and figure I'll change it up in the future. At least that way I'll have the baseline to compare it to.

At first I thought the same thing, I am fairly new to brewing as well. From things I've read, you add the finishing hops while collecting the wort and sparge. I'm not sure of the science behind it but it seems that the lower temp at that point brings out the flavor/aroma and locks it in before the boiling temps are reached. It seems that while the flavor and aroma are preserved, you do gain a couple IBU's but the bitterness becomes much more rounded and less harsh. I have never tried it before but I thought it sounded fun. I know some others on the forum have tried it, Yooper comes to mind.

Here are some links to things I've read.

http://brewery.org/library/1stwort.html

http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/03/17/the-first-wort-hop-beer-brewing-techniques/

http://howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-1.html

http://billybrew.com/first-wort-hopping There is a video with this one.

Thanks for the links! I have some reading to do. Nice thing about this hobby, always something else to learn.

No problem! It seems like a technique that's not well understood so I figured I'd give it a try and see.

Cheers!

I'm picking up the ingredients for this today and had a question. I've been sitting on a 1oz bag of East Kent Goldings and thought to use them up.So any thoughts of when I should throw them in, maybe spread them out with the cascade hops?I'm not sure about different hop profiles and how it would change this beer.Any advice would be great thanks.

n8dagr8 said:

Thoughts on using Fuggles to bitter (60) and then cascade the rest of the way (45,30,5)?

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FWIW, Fuggles = not so good.

I might have messed something else up (I did the partial mash and didn't get my my mash temp high enough at the start). This batch turned out a little too malty and "dirty" (for lack of a better word). It's drinkable but the hops doesn't have the same brightness that the cascade imparts.

Brewing 10 gallons this morning. Always love this one.

Brewed an additional 5 gals. yesterday. Changed things a bit this time and included 4 oz. of Honey Malt. Plan to dry-hop with 1oz (each) of Amarillo, Citra, and Centennial.

I just bottled up 5 gallons of this last night. It was a little green, and a little banana-ish from my temp problems early on, but overall I can't wait for it to carb up.

Well brewed this up this morning,I had 1 oz of E.K.Goldings sitting in the freezer. So after 20 min mark in the boil I continuously add a pinch until boil was through.

Everything went well except I ended up with a little under 5 gallons??The first time that happened DAM!! Can't wait to keg this up!!

I tried a double batch of this last week. transferred to secondary tonight. I had just under 12 gallons so my primary pails were a bit more full than normal. Used Knottingham yeast. when I pulled the lid off the primary, it had a very odd odor. very stong, pungent.. not very pleasant. I took a sample with the wine thief, didn't taste terrible, but you could taste kind of what the odor was. still looked very cloudy and yeasty.after letting it air out, it wasnt near as strong.. I'm new to this brewing gig... it didn't "look" bad.. nothing looked moldy or anything.. not sure what an infected beer looks like. should I be concerned?

borto1990 said:

I tried a double batch of this last week. transferred to secondary tonight. I had just under 12 gallons so my primary pails were a bit more full than normal. Used Knottingham yeast. when I pulled the lid off the primary, it had a very odd odor. very stong, pungent.. not very pleasant. I took a sample with the wine thief, didn't taste terrible, but you could taste kind of what the odor was. still looked very cloudy and yeasty.after letting it air out, it wasnt near as strong.. I'm new to this brewing gig... it didn't "look" bad.. nothing looked moldy or anything.. not sure what an infected beer looks like. should I be concerned?

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Don't worry. It's probably just "green." I've done this recipe a couple times and have gotten a funky odor too. Not sure if it's the Nottingham yeast...It only lasted for a little bit and then fades away.

borto1990 said:

I tried a double batch of this last week. transferred to secondary tonight. I had just under 12 gallons so my primary pails were a bit more full than normal. Used Knottingham yeast. when I pulled the lid off the primary, it had a very odd odor. very stong, pungent.. not very pleasant. I took a sample with the wine thief, didn't taste terrible, but you could taste kind of what the odor was. still looked very cloudy and yeasty.after letting it air out, it wasnt near as strong.. I'm new to this brewing gig... it didn't "look" bad.. nothing looked moldy or anything.. not sure what an infected beer looks like. should I be concerned?

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How were your ferm temps? Mine got a little high in the first 24hrs, and it caused some sulfur smells. It was gone by bottling time though.

Brandx40 said:

Don't worry. It's probably just "green." I've done this recipe a couple times and have gotten a funky odor too. Not sure if it's the Nottingham yeast...It only lasted for a little bit and then fades away.

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+1

mine smelled and tasted awful at week one. Most of it faded after a month when I bottled. Pretty sure it's the yeast. Haven't conditioned it yet, but I'm confident it will be great!

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