Proper Water/Grain Ratio

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grampska

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I noticed that in How To Brew, John Palmer states

A compromise of all factors yields the standard mash conditions for most homebrewers: a mash ratio of about 1.5 quarts of water per pound grain, pH of 5.3, temperature of 150-155°F and a time of about one hour. These conditions yield a wort with a nice maltiness and good fermentability.

Typically, I see a mash ratio of 1.25 being recommended for the mash. I was considering shooting for a 1.15 qt/lb ratio for mash-in and a target of 1.45 qt/lb for the mash-out. Of course shooting for a 1.45 qt/lb ratio for the mash-in and skipping a mash-out would be easier.

Is there an advantage of one over the other? According to BeerSmith, to hit a 154° F mash temp, I can only get a 166° F mash-out temperature so any enzyme stopping effects aren't possible with the 1.15/1.45 grain ratios without having a higher mash-in temperature.

FYI, 1.45 qt/lb is the max ratio which can handle my grain bill in my mash-tun.
 
I know there are some variables with mash ratio but I don't worry too much about it. I brewed 250 gallons with the head brewer @ a local brew pub and he goes on consistency only. I use the 1.25 ratio unless I brew a big beer and run out of room. My Christmas brew ratio was 1.10, It came out great but was a ***** to stir. I think if it was a big factor most recipes would specify ratio.
 
Apparently, somewhat thinnwer mashes seem to attentuate a bit more (i.e. lead to slightly lower FGs).

For homebrewers, I think it's largely a function of mashtun size & design. Batch spargers especially may tend toward thicker mashes because they need space for a lot of water in their MLT.
 
I thought mash ratio was more to put you in the correct PH range. A higher mash ratio for darker beers and a lower ratio for smaller beers. Pale malts don't produce the acidity of darker malts therefor less dilution brings the ph closer to the 5.2 range ,vice versa.
 
Why not mash thin? Seems to me like it'll extract the sugars faster so you'll get better efficiency, then just boil down to your desired volume.
 
I used to do the 5 gal cooler, then a 6 gal wrapped pail - just skip it and mash in a 5-10 gal pot with direct heat and stirring
It is a lot easier set up and the control is easier than you think
You don't have to worry about starting real thick or running out of room trying to heat it up.

my 2¢
 
I was considering this it sounds good but you still need a lauter tun right? That would be just one more thing to clean, as far as target temp I'm always right on the money. So I don't know if its really worth it.
 
johnoswald said:
I used to do the 5 gal cooler, then a 6 gal wrapped pail - just skip it and mash in a 5-10 gal pot with direct heat and stirring
It is a lot easier set up and the control is easier than you think
You don't have to worry about starting real thick or running out of room trying to heat it up.

Just a note -- I think most people around here would advocate a 10 gal cooler to avoid these problems. If you buy one big enough, then there is nothing inherently inferior about using a cooler as a mash tun. In fact, one might argue that it has a huge advantage in that you can hold your temperature much better -- just set it and forget it, unlike a pot where you will have to monitor, and perhaps, make small temperature adjustments along the way.

Having said that, the best system is still what works best for you. Sounds like you found it!
 
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