NattyBrew's Electric Brewery Build

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Excellent job NattyBrew on your system build, brewery room, and documentation. I have really enjoyed following this thread!

I am doing a propane build, but I also was inspired by Kal's build and I copied most of his ideas for my control box. I just finished punching all the holes for the lights and switches, and cutting the squares for the pid's with my jigsaw, for my box. I took my time and so far it is coming out fantastic! Thanks again for taking the time to document your system build!

Good Luck Brewing! :mug:

John
 
Thanks Jason!

You don't have to win the lottery to complete a build like Kal's or mine. Just tackle it in pieces like I did....and eat plenty of ramen noodles along the way!

Matt

I was saving money a few years ago for my other hobby minitruckin and was on a ramen kick. I learned to make from a friend who had done some time in BCP (Berks County Prison) Jail styled Ramen; the idea is to add cheese curls to the ramen. Works as a filler and adds a cheesy flavor. Works well in chicken and pork not so much the beef. Give it a try as you save for Kal's system...I am!

Question...Will those heating elements get too hot for a plastic MLT. Like the ones you so commonly see made of hepd. People use them for HLT and MLT all the time. Ima metal guy but I have access to a few of them and was wondering ??? thanks in advance

Tim
 
I was saving money a few years ago for my other hobby minitruckin and was on a ramen kick. I learned to make from a friend who had done some time in BCP (Berks County Prison) Jail styled Ramen; the idea is to add cheese curls to the ramen. Works as a filler and adds a cheesy flavor. Works well in chicken and pork not so much the beef. Give it a try as you save for Kal's system...I am!

Question...Will those heating elements get too hot for a plastic MLT. Like the ones you so commonly see made of hepd. People use them for HLT and MLT all the time. Ima metal guy but I have access to a few of them and was wondering ??? thanks in advance

Tim

Tim,

Reading, PA native huh? Go Lions! I am a PSU grad and had several good buddies from school that lived in and around Reading, PA.

To answer your question I believe it will work just find in a plastic MLT and HLT though you would want to be careful on how you insert and thread the element into the plastic. I believe Yooper has a system which uses an electric element through the bottom of a rubber maid 10 gallon cooler, so you may want to search around for some details as to how her's is done.

The one advantage that you have with electric elements is that essentially 100% of the heat energy gets put into the liquid it is submerged in, so you can have the element close to something like a plastic without a whole lot of worrying about it melting. Maybe someone else out there has some more experience in mixing these electric elements with plastic, but just off the top of my head it seems that if you set it up the right way it should be just fine.

Good luck!

Matt
 
Tim,

Reading, PA native huh? Go Lions! I am a PSU grad and had several good buddies from school that lived in and around Reading, PA.

To answer your question I believe it will work just find in a plastic MLT and HLT though you would want to be careful on how you insert and thread the element into the plastic. I believe Yooper has a system which uses an electric element through the bottom of a rubber maid 10 gallon cooler, so you may want to search around for some details as to how her's is done.

The one advantage that you have with electric elements is that essentially 100% of the heat energy gets put into the liquid it is submerged in, so you can have the element close to something like a plastic without a whole lot of worrying about it melting. Maybe someone else out there has some more experience in mixing these electric elements with plastic, but just off the top of my head it seems that if you set it up the right way it should be just fine.

Good luck!

Matt

Born and Jersey raised in PA. Moved to Bethlehem (Lehigh Valley Area) and from there have migrated to Reading. There is so much brewing history here its awesome. Bootlegger is an awesome book that talks about local speakeasies and whatnot ...pretty awesome. Ed Taggert I believe is the author. And def a psu fan and grad as well.

Thanks for the tips on electric brewing and searching for the answers. In PA the nano thing is taking off, and we are trying to design a setup and see if a setup like that may work. I currently brew with a propane set up and am tired of lugging things in and out...and if ima go and do this..i might as well do it right. TomRep lives pretty close to me and his electric build has been the most inspiring as of recent months. :ban:

Thanks Matt

Ill keep all posted.
 
One quick comment on this picture. The piece of metal you see in the HLT is a Camco Magnesium Water Heater Anode which I have added to prevent rust on the element face. I know some people have had varied results with different methods but using a magnesium anode as it was designed to protect a water heater element seemed like the best way to do it!

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Were you concerned about rust? How has that addition worked for you? I'm starting a Kal clone build right now and I am looking for any additions I should make. I haven't read anything about the elements rusting.
 
The face of the element was rusting. Where the heater rods enter/exit the body of the threaded portion of the element.
 
NattyBrew said:
I closed on my first home on Friday which gave me official access to my future brew room. Of course, this meant the first wall in the brew room had to come down the same day!

Stil working my way through this thread. I think I read it long ago but now it makes much more sense.

I have about half of the components and my enclosure all cut/drilled/painted....looking forward to finding the money to order the rest of the parts so I can at least start wiring.... I also figured I would tackle the most intimidating part first....the control panel!
 
NattyBrew said:
A quick ventilation build update for everyone following along with the build. As I have discussed before, I am using PVC piping for my vent system due to its rigidity and just general ease to work with fitting, cutting, etc.

I took a dryer vent which I had installed in my new glass block window and modified it to accept my 4" PVC vent tube. Here it is all prepped with caulk to keep the tube exit to the exterior of the house weather tight. Had myself one of my new favorite beers while I worked, Vicious American Wheat IPA from North Peak Brewing Co.

Here is the interior run of the vent tubing all set and ready to go. I am using the same 6" 450 CFM Vortex Power Fan that Kal uses in his brewery so I have run 6" PVC from the hood all the way to the fan inlet.

The Vortex fan mounted as close as possible to the dryer vent outlet to maximize the portion of my run which maintains the 6" duct work. On the left is a 6" to 4" reducer coupling which attaches to the 4" PVC piece which runs through the window.

Backside shot of the 90 degree elbow and the mounted fan

PVC duct ended up lining right up with the hole I had prepped in the hood. Couldn't believe with my luck it fit the very first time and just perfectly! At least something went right on the first attempt!

I am curious as to what adhesive you used to attach the PVC to the fan. Also, what did you use to adhere the FRP panels to the wood?
 
Someone had previously asked me before about how I go about cleaning my gear. I do not have a sink or floor drain in my brew room, but I do have a walk in shower in the basement that is no more than 20 feet away from my brew room that I clean my pots and equipment in. Just so everyone can get a quick visual, this is my MLT in the shower ready to be cleaned.

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Once I've add my first hop addition at 60 minutes and started my timer, the sample of my sparge runnings has cooled enough to get a proper reading and calculate my efficiency of my brew session. My eight gallons of wort had a gravity of 1.040 at 61 degrees, which equals a total of 320 Gravity Units. My grain bill calculated at 100% was a total of 366.5 Gravity Units. So once you divide 320 into 366.5, I came out with an efficiency of 87.3% for this brew day. I aim for my standard of 90% on this system so I fell I little short, but not by much.

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As the end of the boil approaches I start a siphon from a 5 gallon bucket of Star San and pump it through my wort pump, CFC, and all the hoses. Some people choose to sanitize the CFC by recirculating hot wort for the last 5-10 minutes of the boil, but I had an issue with compacting the hops on my Hop Stopper when I tried recirculating at full throttle with my pump so I've switched to this method. Once I start to chill my wort I basically dump the Star San in the lines into a little bucket until I see the beer begin come out of the end of the hose. Then I will switch the hose over to my carboy and begin filling it up. This method has worked well for me as the Star Stan left in the lines also helps to create a nice siphon to start and pull the beer out of the kettle and down towards the pump.

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Thanks to my warm as hell ground water I can only get my wort down to just over 80 degrees in my CFC. I can't wait for fall and winter to roll around so I can get my wort down to pitching temps in a single pass through my chiller. After I fill my carboy I toss it in my fermentation chamber with a sealed carboy cap on top of it to let it cool down to my fermentation temp, 70 degrees for this beer, before pitching my yeast. As long as you be sanitary with all your equipment I don't worry about any infections as it normally takes just about an hour or two to go from just over 80 degrees down to pitching temp at 70.

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Here is a cool shot of the awesome cold break you get in your carboy thanks to the rapid chilling of the CFC. Seeing stuff like this just makes me smile! I know some brewers who get really worried about all the cold break getting into their carboy, but I am of the camp that cold break is an important component of yeast nutrition and food so in my book its the more the merrier! I rack off all of it in the end anyway and leave it behind so no worries for me.

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Here is my aeration device, its main purpose is to degas wine but once you attach it to a drill and see the results of the aeration it seems very effective. I think my next upgrade will be to move up to an oxygen tank and diffusion stone, but for now this is a cheap and simple solution for aeration that is way more effective than shaking the carboy like I used to.

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And here is a quick shot of the carboy after a minute of whipping the wort up into a frenzy with my aeration tool and drill.

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After the kettle is emptied completely into the carboy I snapped a quick shot of the trub and hot break that is left behind thanks to the Hop Stopper. I know some people have had a little trouble getting their kettles to work with this device properly, but I think once you figure out the proper procedure for using it it's an excellent device.

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The beer came out to an original gravity of 1.053, just shy of my predicted 1.054. I gave it a quick taste before tossing it into my fermentation chamber to cool down to pitching temp and I think it will be a great first attempt at this style. I will post some follow up picks of the beer once its kegged and ready to be served so you all can see the full results from start to finish.

I hope this brew day walk through was a help to everyone who wanted to see one on the system, I tried to capture all the important parts with pictures but if I missed anything please let me know. I'd be more than happy to answer any questions about my system and or process when I use it so please ask away.

Thanks everyone and happy brewing! :mug:

Matt

Nice Job Matt! I looked but couldn't find any explanation on your tips for using that hop stopper. I have the same one but have not brewed with it yet. Will be brewing my first batch in several weeks after a test run with water this weekend. Could you post your tips?

My build thread almost done: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/just-another-electric-brewery-build-thread-317746/#post3951391
 
... The two rectangles are attached to each other via 2.5" wood screws...

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I'm considering building a similar hood and am debating using 1x12 if I can find it or 2x12 so there is no need to build two rectangles on top of each other.

However, I'm curious - I can't see where you screwed them together - can you be more specific as to how you attached the two pieces together?

And finally, since you're using this system, how does the hood work? Do you find that the 11." depth is enough to capture all the steam? And do you get any dripping from the hood?

Thanks a lot. :mug:
 
What I did to connect the two 2x6's together was to drill a pilot hole at an angle on the inside of the top frame and into the bottom frame and then drive a screw into the hole through one board into the other. I believe the technique is officially called a "pocket screw" if you want to look it up. They sell plastic jigs to use in finish carpentry so that your holes turn out uniform but I just did it freehand.

I think the depth of my hood is just about as shallow as you could feasibly go depending on how powerful your exhaust fan is. I am able to adequately get rid of all the steam in my brew sessions, but the depth is just about perfect to capture all the steam before it heads out the tubing. I do get condensation on the inside of the hood after 30-45 minutes of boiling, but I just grab a towel and wipe it down and it is all good.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
Right on - thanks - I will probably build mine out of 2x8 or even 2x10s since I have the height in my garage. I'll also devise some sort of drip catching system because I honestly can't see myself wiping down the FRPs mid-brew (and would probably have the towel sucked into the Vortex fan!) I like your idea of using similar hardware as the brew stand to make it match - I'll do likewise.
 
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