Shank size holes in wood?

15/16" or 1" for the shank hole.

1" almost looks too big...

you can always make it bigger, not the reverse.
try it on a scrap first.

good idea

Just drilled mine tonight for a 3 tap, coffin keezer. 7/8" seems to be the general concensus. Many posts have indicated that 1" is a little too big, eventhough most shanks call for that size hole. I'm ordering my keg equipemt from www.kegglebrewing.com and they call for 7/8" for the Perlick shanks, so that's what I went with. Any pics. of your build? I'm in the middle of mine (check out my thread in my signature line if you get a chance) and have been trying to review every keezer/kegorator threat out there. Good luck.

If you're using butterfly bits or other bits that require 'centering', then trying to 'make it bigger' will result in out of round (triangular) holes.. On self feed or auger bits, there's will be nothing to 'pull' the bit through the wood when you try to 'make it bigger'..

I used 1" (recommended by the manufacturer.. A little sloppy, but that allows for alignment.. Seeing as it's near impossible to perfectly align holes in wood while drilling, then the ability to align is nice..

Just drill one inch holes, between the nut on the back side, and the shank flashing on the outside, it will have more than enough meat to tighten, and the hardware will easily cover the slop, and you can align them all perfectly....

I drilled a very small pilot hole (as an alignment path for the butterfly bit)then followed with a one inch butterfly bit to make this:

I used a 7/8" hole saw bit and it worked good I liked the snug fit.

good points r8rphan! I think you convinced me to go with a 1" hole. I was also concerned with cooling efficiency but I suppose the insulation will negate that extra size to the hole.

bmickey said:

good points r8rphan! I think you convinced me to go with a 1" hole. I was also concerned with cooling efficiency but I suppose the insulation will negate that extra size to the hole.

Click to expand...

What are you drilling through?

If you are worried about colling, you can always spray a little expanding foam in the hole after you have slipped the shank through, and then tighten the nut.. the foam will expand and fill whatever void it can... Once that stuff dries it is easy to remove, should you ever want to realign the shafts or whatever..

You an also use silicone caulk to fill the void around the shank on the inside surface side just before installing the nut.. Also pretty easy to remove later...

r8rphan said:

What are you drilling through?

If you are worried about colling, you can always spray a little expanding foam in the hole after you have slipped the shank through, and then tighten the nut.. the foam will expand and fill whatever void it can... Once that stuff dries it is easy to remove, should you ever want to realign the shafts or whatever..

You an also use silicone caulk to fill the void around the shank on the inside surface side just before installing the nut.. Also pretty easy to remove later...

Click to expand...

drilling through poplar 1x8 board for keezer collar.

Hoppopotomus said:

Just drilled mine tonight for a 3 tap, coffin keezer. 7/8" seems to be the general concensus. Many posts have indicated that 1" is a little too big, eventhough most shanks call for that size hole. I'm ordering my keg equipemt from www.kegglebrewing.com and they call for 7/8" for the Perlick shanks, so that's what I went with. Any pics. of your build? I'm in the middle of mine (check out my thread in my signature line if you get a chance) and have been trying to review every keezer/kegorator threat out there. Good luck.

Click to expand...

The only thing I have done to mine thus far is take lid off the freezer, make the collar from 1x8's and order a crap load of kegging equipment. I am going with the johnson a419 temp controller. I also need to figure out air flow. I have seen people use marine grade blowers, computer fans, etc. I know I have plenty of 90mm fans lying around. Hope to have it all done in a couple weeks.