Finished Heatstick

I finished my 2kw heatstick today, so I went ahead and made a 10ft extension cord for it. I used a 20 amp GFCI and a 20 amp light switch. I mounted them in a dual outlet box. Now, I can turn it on and off without unplugging.

I also added a digital thermometer to my MLT, using the "Pol Stopper" method.

Used the MLT with cold water in it to test the heatstick. I raised about 2.5 gallons of 57* water up to 81* in about three minutes, so I guess it worked.

Most importantly, I am still breathing!

:rockin:

Cpt_Kirks said:

I finished my 2kw heatstick today, so I went ahead and made a 10ft extension cord for it. I used a 20 amp GFCI and a 20 amp light switch. I mounted them in a dual outlet box. Now, I can turn it on and off without unplugging.

I also added a digital thermometer to my MLT, using the "Pol Stopper" method.

Used the MLT with cold water in it to test the heatstick. I raised about 2.5 gallons of 57* water up to 81* in about three minutes, so I guess it worked.

Most importantly, I am still breathing!

:rockin:

Click to expand...

Is that like co#k blocking? Congrats!

That is very cool ... van you post a pic ?

kappclark said:

That is very cool ... van you post a pic ?

Click to expand...

Here are a few:

Thanks - looks so simple .. and cost-effective !

110 ?

110v, 2000watt.

The switch, GFCI, cords and plugs are all rated at 20amps. That extension cord will be useful camping, too.

Can you tell us the part you used for the element ? I know there is a thread abt this, but I don't think it was 2KW.

They come in various sizes. Most of the heatsticks I have seen are 1500 or 2000 watt.

Mine is just a 110v, 2000 watt water heater element from Home Depot. Cost about $9.

I just followed this guys instructions:

How to Build an Electric Homebrewing Heatstick Audio Tutorial Podcast and Step by Step Photo Instructions

Cpt_Kirks said:

They come in various sizes. Most of the heatsticks I have seen are 1500 or 2000 watt.

Mine is just a 110v, 2000 watt water heater element from Home Depot. Cost about $9.

I just followed this guys instructions:

How to Build an Electric Homebrewing Heatstick Audio Tutorial Podcast and Step by Step Photo Instructions

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Do you know if your element is low or high density? Also, I have read that some elements had a coating that needed to be removed before it was safe to brew. Did you have to do anything special to yours?

Nice job, what I did w/ my two sticks is to wrap a small piece of 12 ga copper wire around the tip to avoid it contacting the cooler wall. I once noticed a tiny dimple inside the cooler caused by the heat of the stick.

psyber said:

Do you know if your element is low or high density? Also, I have read that some elements had a coating that needed to be removed before it was safe to brew. Did you have to do anything special to yours?

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I think all 110v heating elements are high density. I have never heard of any coating that must be removed. These are for use in water heaters, so they must be food grade.

There is a lot of talk about high density elements causing carmelization. I have not noticed it. However, if I use any DME in a brew, I add it at the end of the boil, just in case. Also, I don't use the heatstick in the MLT, just the boil and to help heat the mash/sparge water.

Kirk about how much did the heat stick cost you total? I am planning on doing something very similar soon.

OMJ said:

Kirk about how much did the heat stick cost you total? I am planning on doing something very similar soon.

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IIRC, the heatstick itself cost about $30 for parts. I made a 20 amp, GFCI protected and switched 20 foot extension cord that cost about $40 for parts.

20 amp stuff is expensive, most stuff tends to be rated for 15 amps.

Heatstick tip protection for use in plastic vessels / coolers.

wilserbrewer said:

Heatstick tip protection for use in plastic vessels / coolers.

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What would you use for the tip protector? I don't want to melt holes in my HLT (when I get it built).

Cpt_Kirks

I just wrapped a short length of 12 ga copper wire, the ground from some regular BX wiring, around the tip of the element. This keeps the element from contacting the plastic cooler walls.

One of the other methods I have seen is just applying some silicone to the tip of the element. I opted for the copper wire.

any safe ways to test one of these? i am currently soaking it in a bucket. took a weight before, and will weigh after to see if any water has become trapped inside. then will take a voltage meter and test continuity to ground and make sure it isnt shorted....then plug it into my GFI and hope for the best..........

if you dont see my screename post for a long time.....dont build one LOL

BreWirfel said:

any safe ways to test one of these? i am currently soaking it in a bucket. took a weight before, and will weigh after to see if any water has become trapped inside. then will take a voltage meter and test continuity to ground and make sure it isnt shorted....then plug it into my GFI and hope for the best..........

if you dont see my screename post for a long time.....dont build one LOL

Click to expand...

I left mine in a bucket of water overnight, then dried it off and looked for drips.

Still, I had to go back and put a layer of JB Weld over the ground screw later when it started to short out.

The GFCI does a good job of protecting you, it is VERY sensitive.

Still, I had to go back and put a layer of JB Weld over the ground screw later when it started to short out.

Click to expand...

on the outside of the stick right? i just finished mine (jb weld is curing right now) and i tried to seal the heck out of the ground screw (inside and out) as well as the top of the drain pipe.

i hadn't thought about the dripping thing. that's a great idea for testing. and thank god for gfci adapters.

still amazes me tehy're not required in kitchens in new york city as a retrofit.