Getting Started (Sorry for the new Thread)

So I have decided to take the plunge and go electric. I'm not really looking to go full automated but really just replace propane with electricity. After reading quite a bit of stuff it seems going with a 240V 5500W element is the prefered method of most.

I can't really find much on this basic of a setup. I am good with wiring although I do not have a ton of experience with residential wiring but I am friends with a licensed electrician. I've got a few questions for the experts out there.

Can I get away with only a 30amp breaker? My breaker box is literally 12" from the area where I plan to setup my kettle.

Will this kit cover all of the components I need for just the kettle (minus the element of course)?
http://www.stilldragon.com/diy-controller.html

Any tips or lessons learned you guys can share?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Trent

Welcome to the fun! If you're only running a single 5500 w element, you should be fine.

If watts = amps x volts, a 5500 watt heating element should only draw about 23 amps with room to spare on a 30 amp circuit for a pump.

But, if you're ever looking to upgrade to two elements, you may want to run a 50A breaker. Also, whatever you run needs to be GFCI protected at the breaker or in line.

In regards to the kit, that will work if you're only using the element and have no need for a pump.

I think if I add a pump I will just plug it into the existing 120 outlets. Are there any wiring diagrams out there for this simple of a setup?

Also, any preferences between 3-prong or 4-prong plugs?

I just came across a spare 3-prong 30 amp at work with about 4-5 of cable. Free is good

trent_77590 said:

Any tips or lessons learned you guys can share?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Trent

Click to expand...

I've done two brews on my electric brew setup so far. One thing that I kinda wish that I had done was to install the pump switches onto the brewing table, close to the pumps, instead of installing them onto the control panel. The switches would be a lot more useful if they were closer to the pumps.

trent_77590 said:

I think if I add a pump I will just plug it into the existing 120 outlets. Are there any wiring diagrams out there for this simple of a setup?

Also, any preferences between 3-prong or 4-prong plugs?

I just came across a spare 3-prong 30 amp at work with about 4-5 of cable. Free is good

Click to expand...

You sure can. Lots of guys use old dryer outlets on here with no issue. Most of the newer systems will use the 4-prong style. Picking up a new cord off amazon is pretty cheap.

In regards to the diagram, I swear I recall seeing a P-J diagram with the bare bones setup still dragon uses but can't find it (HBT's search feature on the app is lacking to say the least).

Update: found this link that P-J had referenced before.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=332. I think this is pretty close to the right concept.

Thanks! That looks really simple.



The load is just the element correct?

Also, I read a few things stating the kettle needs to be grounded. I can just run the ground to the control box and then to the kettle. Probably just pinched between the bulkhead fittings.

I always make things like this seem way more complicated than they actually are. I really appreciate all of the advise! The idea of having a light switch control the pump is pretty sweet and I will probably incoorporate it if I ever buy a pump

So I drew this up pretty quick because I couldn't find exactly what I needed.

P-J, I snagged one of yours and edited. I hope you don't mind.

Can you guys look over it and let me know if there are any glaring mistakes?



If it is incorrect I will pull it down right away and edit it so no one uses it

Thanks in advance,

Trent

trent_77590 said:

So I drew this up pretty quick because I couldn't find exactly what I needed.

P-J, I snagged one of yours and edited. I hope you don't mind.

Can you guys look over it and let me know if there are any glaring mistakes?

If it is incorrect I will pull it down right away and edit it so no one uses it

Thanks in advance,

Trent

Click to expand...

Looks good to me.

BTW, No problems at all using one of my diagrams.

P-J

So you are going to run your 5500w element at 120v, effectively yielding 1375w, correct? I see H-N-G in the diagram, with no second hot for 240v.

No I plan on using 240. I have a few 3-prong plugs that I got for free at work that I plan on using

trent_77590 said:

No I plan on using 240. I have a few 3-prong plugs that I got for free at work that I plan on using

Click to expand...

Then your diagram is not correct. You will need at least H-H-G for 240v only, or H-H-N-G if you want to run both 240v and 120v.

How would the diagrm change then? Would the neutral on the diagram just be another hot line?

That would work, but I would be concerned about always having a hot line going to the element, with the other hot line controlled by an SSVR that can fail closed. I would strongly consider adding a "master" switch wired to the coil of a double-pole, single-throw, normally open contactor, with both hot lines running through the contactor. That way, when the switch is off, you know your element is off. In my view, that is a more important safety feature than an e-stop shunting to ground, although you could certainly do both.

Like this?
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=129

trent_77590 said:

Like this?
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=129

Click to expand...

Yes, assuming that you are bringing H-H-N-G into the panel so you can derive 120v to power the coil. If not, they make one with a 240v coil. You would also wire in a switch to control power to the contactor coil.

Another option, less pretty, is using a switch rated high enough that you don't need a contactor.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...ble-Pole-Switch-White-R62-03032-2WS/100356941