Thornbridge Jaipur IPA - yeast? Hops?

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Jaipur doesn't use wheat, Munich or any crystal.

You're right though, a lot of English breweries use wheat, especially torrified. When we use wheat, we usually use malted.

I'd use the recipe nugent used, or maybe ask him about how it came out and what changes he would make as it's got some practical application to a homebrewing setup.
 
weiht said:
Hey Will, can you comment or help me out here?

My guess probably chinook as a 60 mins addition probably to the tune of 30-35 ibu, then a 30 mins addition of centennial and cascades, maybe another addition of centennial and cascades at either 10 or 15mins, and a big flame out/hopback addition.

I would say ibu of mid 50s-60s? So about 30ibus from a 60mins addition, then another 25-30ibus addition from a centennial/cascade blend at 30mins, or equal amount of that centennial/cascades blend to make up 25-30 ibus at both 30 and 15or10 mins (Need to play around with ur spreadsheets for this to get to the equal amount at 30 n 10/15mins), then at least double (My guess is about 3grams/litre) that amount of centennial/cascade blend with some chinook as well at flame out.

I think the malt are pretty spot on except munich in place of vienna and maybe some flaked or torrified wheat since its english?

4.80 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 83.48 %
0.35 kg Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 6.09 %
0.35 kg Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM) Grain 6.09 %
0.25 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 4.35 % *Optional
23.00 gm Chinook [13.00 %] (60 min) Hops 30.8 IBU
20.00 gm Cascade [5.50 %] (30 min) Hops 8.7 IBU
20.00 gm Centennial [10.00 %] (30 min) Hops 15.8 IBU
35.00 gm Cascade [5.50 %] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
17.00 gm Chinook [13.00 %] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
35.00 gm Centennial [10.00 %] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -

I'm probably talking nonsense anyway lol
Click to expand...

I've been using the hopping schedule of a bittering addition at 60, followed by 15, 10, 5 and 0 additions of increasingly larger hop charges for a number of pale ales since brewing the Jaipur-esque IPA. I find that this schedule really makes for a complex, but smooth, hop flavour along with the desired bitter backbone. I highly recommend it.
 
I always love to see commercial brewers on homebrew forums giving tips. Hats off Will.

Got any pointers on Sequoia? Amazing beer!
 
SkittlebrauUK said:
I always love to see commercial brewers on homebrew forums giving tips. Hats off Will.

Got any pointers on Sequoia? Amazing beer!
Click to expand...

Well I was on here before I started doing it for a career, and to be fair there is a lot of very credible information on here, the Americans/Canadians on here often have more knowledge than some of the micro breweries I've been to round here.

As for Sequoia... no idea, I've only brewed it once and that was a while ago.
 
hi guys!
first of all sorry for my bad english...
i'm going to brew my first all grain beer and searching the net i found the recipe of nugent..
so i have a few question:
-wich is your batch size? i'm triyng to convert your recipe in european measuring system and i don't understand how many gallons you put in the fermenter...
- here is very very difficult to find ahtanum (is easy to find only if i buy more than 1 kg:confused:) but this my first beer with this method and this means that is just a test (i don't know wich is the efficiency of my system, and i am not sure of the functioning of the system...) and i'm thinking to replace ahtanum with amarillo or cascade...it is right? (this is my first experience with american hops...)
thanks again sorry for my bad english!
greetings from italy!

p.s chillwill if i undestand well you are working at thornbridge, right? if it is right, congratulations guys! you made me fall in love with your beers!
 
Thanks Ilberse. Where are you from?

If you are new to brewing, I'd recommend going for something a little simpler; maybe a pale ale. When you've got your processes refined then go for something like this. I remember my first homebrew batch, was pretty awful and I'd have been annoyed if I'd invested a lot into it (this was a couple of years ago before I started a career).

There is plenty of software out there to help with conversions and general literature. Time spent reading and learning is a good investment, even though it requires patience.
 
hi!
i'm writing from italy, near venice..
i'm not new to brewing, i'm new with the all grain method...i started 5 years ago with the "kit", then at the university i stopped to do beer at my home (i studied in padua and my inmates wasn't very happy at the ideato have a brewery at home) so i helped a friend with e+g method. now i finished to study and i want to start with all grain. i'm pretty sure that i can control the boil and the fermentation process. For the mash an sparge phase i'm studying hard!
the convertion for the weights is not a problem, but i can't undestand how many litres (or gallons) goes in the fermenter...
 
Hey there,

It was a 19 litre batch that I put into the cask.

I used about 30 litres of water to mash and sparge, and it was down to about 22 litres after the boil and I kegged 19 litres.

Hope this helps. Feel free to PM me, but ChillWill is the real expert. :mug:

Good luck!
 
Brilliant thread. Love jaipur and kipling, will give a go at simplifying my malt bills a bit. I spent a great evening once drinking jaipur on cask for hours.
 
ChillWill said:
Jaipur doesn't use wheat, Munich or any crystal.

You're right though, a lot of English breweries use wheat, especially torrified. When we use wheat, we usually use malted.

I'd use the recipe nugent used, or maybe ask him about how it came out and what changes he would make as it's got some practical application to a homebrewing setup.
Click to expand...

Hi ChillWill,
If you don't use wheat in it why does Jaipur have wheat as one of the ingredients on the side of the bottle?
 
How long after fermentation starts and then for how long should a person dry-hop? Do you (fellow HBT'ers!) add your hop leaves (or pellets) in and just let them settle and rack without difficulty after a week or so? Or do you use a muslin bag or other device to let the hops steep and then remove them after a period of time?

Thanks for any advice you have.
 
here's my partial mash/extract version, any comments welcome.
I'm subbing Galaxy for Chinook (have run of of Chinook) seems a reasonable fit.

Amt Name Type # %/IBU
400 g CaraGold (12.0 EBC) Grain 1 12.1 %
400 g Vienna Malt (6.9 EBC) Grain 2 12.1 %
500 g Light Dry Extract (7.0 EBC) Dry Extract 3 15.2 %
8 g Ahtanum [6.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 8.4 IBUs
8 g Bullion [10.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 14.1 IBUs
8 g Centennial [10.30 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 14.5 IBUs
8 g Ahtanum [6.00 %] - Boil 25.0 min Hop 7 5.9 IBUs
8 g Centennial [10.30 %] - Boil 25.0 min Hop 8 10.1 IBUs
25 g Ahtanum [6.00 %] - Aroma Steep 30.0 min Hop 9 0.0 IBUs
25 g Centennial [10.30 %] - Aroma Steep 30.0 min Hop 10 0.0 IBUs
25 g Galaxy [14.00 %] - Aroma Steep 30.0 min Hop 11 0.0 IBUs
2000 g Light Dry Extract (7.0 EBC) Dry Extract 12 60.6 %
25 g Ahtanum [6.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 13 0.0 IBUs
25 g Centennial [10.30 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 14 0.0 IBUs
25 g Galaxy [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 15 0.0 IBUs

Est Original Gravity: 1.060 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.016 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.9 %
Bitterness: 53.0 IBUs
Est Color: 9.9 EBC
18litres
 
I used ahtanum, centennial, and simcoe in the boil pot, and am putting chinook, citra, and centennial in the fermenter. I was pretty pleased with the gravity sample after 7 days (still getting a nice steady bubble stream from my blowoff tube, too - about one blow every 5 seconds.)
 
Really interested in doing a Maxi-BIAB Jaipur clone as my introduction to AG. It's one of my favourite beers.

I'm guessing you can't tell us what actual grains are in it can you?

Great Job at Thornbridge by the way. I run a homebrew club in conjunction with Red Willow Brewery and we were thinking of asking Dom to do a talk.
 
Brewed a Jaipur attempt 9 days ago - was down to 1.012 from 1.055 2 days ago and still moderately active blowoff (San Diego Super Yeast.) I added calcium chloride and gypsum to increase the very low alkalinity of local water - pumped to see what kind of diff there will be.

Edit: this finished at 1.010 and is a truly spectacular beer. The salts made the difference, I think. I used Citra, Chinook, Ahtanum, Centennial, and Amarillo hops.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Am I right in thinking from that link to jimsbeerkit that this line...
"Final hops 80°C for 30 mins." means that I chill the wort to 80 deg C once the boil is complete, then steep at that temperature for 30 minutes? I don't know how I enter that into beersmith so cannot see if it will have any affect on IBU's?
Thanks
 

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