Bourbon County Stout clone attempt

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I'm very happy with my outcome. Here's how I got there:

5/29/14: Brew day, hit an OG of 1.114 using the recipe on the first post of this thread. Pitched it on a yeast cake from 5 gallons of wheat ale. Pitched it directly in to the wheat ale's carboy after racking the wheat out.

7/12/14: Racked to secondary with a gravity of 1.037. 10.3% already! I soaked 4oz of oak cubes in 16oz bullit bourbon for several days before racking, and threw the whole solution in on 7/12.

8/16/14: Kegged. FG of 1.035. Factoring in the 16oz of bourbon, I'm at around 11.2%. Not as big as BCBS, but the biggest beer I've made to date.

2/14/15: Kegerator has been empty for a while, so I throw this in and force carbed it for 24 hours.

Today: It's thick, sweet and syrupy like BCBS. Mine has more oak flavor than bourbon - I think it could do with another few months of aging. I plan on bottling half and trying some next Winter. It's still delicious, so I'll probably drink the rest of the keg this winter, and then time my next batch of this so it has 9-12 months to age, ending in the winter time. If I were to brew it with a shorter turnaround time in mind, I'd probably go with less oak. I love oak flavors, but for a BCBS clone this has too much oak and not enough bourbon right now.

So, couple of questions...

1) Was this a 5 gallon batch?
2) What wheat beer strain did you use to ferment this? Any off flavors? What temp?

I've had good results in the past with "bourbon barrel" beers using 2oz oak cubes soaked with enough bourbon to just cover the oak. Then I drain the bourbon, drink it, and add the oak. When bottling, I blend in fresh bourbon to taste. I might try a combo of our methods on this one in the Spring.
 
So, couple of questions...



1) Was this a 5 gallon batch?

2) What wheat beer strain did you use to ferment this? Any off flavors? What temp?



I've had good results in the past with "bourbon barrel" beers using 2oz oak cubes soaked with enough bourbon to just cover the oak. Then I drain the bourbon, drink it, and add the oak. When bottling, I blend in fresh bourbon to taste. I might try a combo of our methods on this one in the Spring.


Yes, this was a 5 gallon batch.

I pitched this on to a yeast cake of 1056, the wheat beer before it was 6.5 lbs US 2 row, 1 lbs Wheat Malt, 0.5lb 40L Crystal Malt. Fermented in my fridge at 65F.

I like your Bourbon + oak method, sounds like it may work better than what I did.
 
I like your Bourbon + oak method, sounds like it may work better than what I did.

We'll see...I probably won't brew it for a while but I'll try to remember to post the results here.

I've found too that putting in a little bit of vanilla bean helps to mimic the effect of long-term barrel aging if you aren't getting that characteristic.
 
OK. I designed this beer based on the following requirements/assumptions:

Assumption #1-- The Ingredients are listed on the GI website from greatest to least, but if two ingredients are used equally, they are placed in alphabetical order. This means I must have the following ingredients in the following order: Pale Malt, Munich, Chocolate, Caramel 60(n1), Roasted Barley, Debittered Black Malt. Now to look for ingredients that might be used equally.. Assuming the common convention is followed where things are listed in alphabetical order when used equally, Pale comes after Munich (alphabetically), so there's more Pale Malt than Munich (Otherwise they'd be listed in reverse order). And Munich comes after Chocolate (So there is probably more munich than chocolate, not equal amounts). And alphabetically, Chocolate comes after Caramel, so since Chocolate is listed first, there should definitely be more Chocolate malt than Caramel malt in this beer. It should be an actual quantitative difference, otherwise the order makes no sense (Caramel would be listed first). But then Caramel comes before Roasted Barley (alphabetically and on the ingredient list) so conceivably, those MIGHT be used at the same quantity. That's just a 50/50 coin flip though. Roasted barley could be quite a bit less. However, since this beer has a ton of sweetness, I have no fear whatsoever about adding too much bitter malt, so equal parts of Roasted Barley and Caramel it is! And then Roasted Barley comes after Debittered so there is a likely quantitative difference there as well. So basically, Roasted barley and caramel are the only two ingredients which might be used in equal parts in this recipe, and everything else follows a definite hierarchy of quantity (assuming the GI brewers know how to put things in alphabetical order and aren't trying to screw with us). So from here, and knowing the OG/FG, and the SRM's, it's just a logic problem to figure out possible percentages. So now off to Beersmith I go!!!!

Requirement #1-- I will not be able to fit 6 gallons of this beer into my 5 gallon MLT, therefore, I will be doing this partigyle-style and creating two 3 gallon batches, mashing twice. Each time, I will take the first runnings for the BCS, and use the second runnings for a session beer of some sort. Maybe even a "Baby Bourbon Stout".

Requirement #2-- Even with the double-batch method, I will still likely need some Extract to increase the SG. I will also have to be watering down my hydrometer sample in order to get a reading.

Assumption #2-- The munich malt must be in there for a reason. It's the second listed ingredient, after 2-row. With all this darkness and maltiness, what's a little munich malt going to do besides take away from diastatic power? In such a complex beer, why not just add a little extra 2 row and some crystal? What's the point? Well, I'm guessing they are using quite a bit of Munich Malt. Otherwise, why not just leave it out? I am hypothesizing that that is the challenge for the brewer... use as much (low diastatic munich) as you can while still getting good conversion.

Requirement #3-- When trying to figure out the recipe, let the grains guide you more than the SRM. This beer will be BLACK. Period. So assuming the Goose Island is brewing All-Grain, I will use the SRM information to help me zone in on the recipe formula. However, since I'm brewing Partial Mash for this (due to the huge grain bill), I'm going let the SRM calculation slide a bit as necessary to get closer to what I think the actual beer recipe should be.

To me, the grain bill seems kind of weird. First you have your base malt (high diastatic, that's normal). But then you have a malt that barely converts itself, followed by everything else that won't convert. Why? What's the purpose of that Munich malt? For a beer that has so much going on already, do you think they would they add "just a handful" of it? "Just for a subtle hint of character"? IMO That doesn't make sense in a beer like this. Especially given that it actually makes it harder to achieve the desired SRM because it adds almost nothing (relatively speaking) to the color. So I suspect that if you want to really nail down this recipe, here's what you need to do: While keeping the ingredients in their proper order, use the maximum amount of Munich and the minimum amount of 2 row. Now, I don't dare push the boundary too closely, after all this beer is going to age for at least 6 months or more! It'd be a shame to screw it up in the brewing process. So I will play it safe with an adequate amount of two row, but based on this theory, I will be using Munich LME.

Remember, this is a 3 gallon recipe. I will make it twice to fill the carboy. And I want to make as much as humanly possible, so I'll be affixing a blow off tube and crossing my fingers.

Ingredients Amount Item Type % or IBU
Batch Size: 3.00 gal
Boil Volume: 3.43 gal Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.0 %

Ingredients Amount Item Type % or IBU
2.50 lb Munich Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 17.2 %
4.50 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 31.0 %
2.25 lb Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 15.5 %
2.00 lb Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 13.8 %
1.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 10.3 %
1.50 lb Roasted Barley (300.0 SRM) Grain 10.3 %
0.25 lb Black (Patent) Malt (500.0 SRM) Grain 1.7 %
4.00 oz Williamette [4.60%] (60 min) Hops 59.9 IBU

Beer Profile
Estimated Original Gravity: 1.129 SG (1.075-1.100 SG) Measured Original Gravity: 1.129 SG
Estimated Final Gravity: 1.032 SG (1.018-1.034 SG) Measured Final Gravity: 1.042 SG
Estimated Color: 101.7 SRM (30.0-45.0 SRM) Color [Color]
Bitterness: 59.9 IBU (50.0-95.0 IBU) Alpha Acid Units: 6.1 AAU
Estimated Alcohol by Volume: 12.9 % (8.0-13.0 %) Actual Alcohol by Volume: 11.5 %
Actual Calories: 635 cal/pint


And I'll probably substitute UK Styrian for the Williamette, since that seems to be what was used earlier in this beer's history.

n1. Currently, the website just states "Crystal" However in previous years they did specify C-60. And frankly, I've had over 10 years of this beer and sometime around 2005 to 2008 was the best, IMO.

For the life of me, I cannot locate Humpalots mash temp and length of time. Others provided there's but his was nowhere to be found. I must have missed it. Can someone chime in...
 
funny to see someone else reading this thread as well ;)
I read through all the threads here and else where and see alot of the same and differnt things tried so i kinda threw alittle of everthing together.
 
funny to see someone else reading this thread as well ;)
I read through all the threads here and else where and see alot of the same and differnt things tried so i kinda threw alittle of everthing together.

What temp did you mash at? For how long?

Last but not least, how did it turn out?
 
I know this is an old thread, but I just brewed an all grain batch (31# of grain!!!) on Sunday. The thing fermented like a BEAST for 2 days, and has now just about completely stopped. I had an OG reading of 1.125. I just checked and I have 1.040.

Here is the question. Should I re yeast it when I put it on the secondary? Because it seems like the yeasts may be all dead with the high alcohol.

Or should I leave it alone?
 
I know this is an old thread, but I just brewed an all grain batch (31# of grain!!!) on Sunday. The thing fermented like a BEAST for 2 days, and has now just about completely stopped. I had an OG reading of 1.125. I just checked and I have 1.040.

Here is the question. Should I re yeast it when I put it on the secondary? Because it seems like the yeasts may be all dead with the high alcohol.

Or should I leave it alone?

Which recipe on this thread did you end up using?

Thanks...
 
I just had the same issue with my bcbs clone two months ago. My OG was 1.137 and it stalled at 1.040. I pitched a starter of wlp high gravity yeast into the secondary and it only took it down to 1.037. At bottling it tasted like bcbs blended with bcbs coffee. I would try it, but don't worry if it doesn't take it much lower.
 
I have brewed this 4 times. My OG each time was either 1.137 or 1.139 and my SG was always around 1.038-1.040 - I wouldn't touch it. I'd let it sit in the primary for at least 4 weeks and then in the secondary for 6-8 months. It still brings the beer around 12-14% depending. Don't move it quite yet and I've also added yeast after with very little results.
 
Thanks for your feedback. I am hesitant to leave any beer on the yeastbed for 4 weeks, but I will leave it in the primary for two weeks and then rack to the secondary with the oak and bourbon for at least a month. Thanks for the assistance!
 
I am hesitant to leave any beer on the yeastbed for 4 weeks...

Why? For a beer this big, I would definitely leave it 3-4 weeks in primary. It hit final gravity quickly, but there's still work to be done, cleaning up their mess, so to speak.

1.040 sounds like where you want to be for a final gravity too. That's where my hunahpu clone ended and it seems like those big stouts have a high final gravity, lending to that thick mouthfeel.

Sounds like you are on the right track for sure. :mug:
 
I brewed one a week ago most like the page 2 version. OG was ~1.160 when it finishes I'll update with FG.

Looking for input on adding bourbon soaked oak. I have 2 containers of 2 oz medium french oak chips soaking in Makers 46. Looks and smells good. How much did you add and when did you add to the fermented beer? Did you add oak in a bag or strain when done? What worked best for you?
 
I used an oak spiral, and left it in for 3 weeks. I tasted it along the way and pulled it out when it tasted like BC. I have not tasted it yet as it is still bottle conditioning, but I probably should have left it in another week. I was just afraid of over-oaking as I have done in the past. If you are using cubes, you can age for much longer. The spirals go faster.
 
here is a grav sample i pulled from a 2013 bottle -

2vtoadk.jpg
 
About ready for bourbon addition. opinions on How much bourbon to you add for a 5g batch? Im thinking 8-12oz
 
About ready for bourbon addition. opinions on How much bourbon to you add for a 5g batch? Im thinking 8-12oz
Depending on the bourbon you are using, and the flavor you're after, that might be a little light. I've done two 3.5g batches, one with Willett and one with Maker's Mark. I soaked about 2 oz of medium toast American Oak in 10-12 oz for more than two weeks while beer was in primary, then threw the whole mess into secondary and let it rest for another 4-6 weeks. I racked off the oak into a bottling bucket and let it bottle condition for another month or two. The Maker's Mark came out very smooth, but a little too oak-y for my taste, and the Willett has a sweeter, more bourbon-y taste with less oak. Both are very good, just a little different because of the bourbon used.

Chief of Smoke Bourbon Barrel Porter.jpg
 
Thanks, I have tested a few shot glasses full at different bourbon ratios and like the higher level of bourbon a bit better. have soaked 4oz medium toast chips over two months. I liked a blend of soaked and non soaked makers at a 50/50 ratio the best. A 1:25 ratio of bourbon to beer seemed to be good but that also seemed high to me.
 
I'm thinking of brewing this up in a couple of weeks. I've noticed however that a lot of people are ending up at a FG of 1.040. Isn't that a little too high? Should it be closer to 1.030?
 
I'm thinking of brewing this up in a couple of weeks. I've noticed however that a lot of people are ending up at a FG of 1.040. Isn't that a little too high? Should it be closer to 1.030?

I posted a gravity sample from an actual bottle above which shows a TG of about 1.041.
 
I'm drinking it occasionally and have shared it with many friends who know bourbon county. We think the flavor is spot on, but my FG of 1.060 is too sweet. I definitely recommend leaving it to finish at 1.04 or slightly higher. Mine may not be exactly Bourbon County, but I find it delicious and I am proud of the results.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1444097497.176432.jpg
 
Over boiled. Thanks to an inferior refractometer I did not have the correct specific gravity reading until after I had cooled the wort. I have eliminated these issues for future batches. But,

I still love this beer!!
 
Obviously pretty similar to the posted recipe. Seems y'all are on the right track. Especially regarding the FG
 
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