Secondary fermentation ????

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Primo

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OK so I have done a lot of reading and research and want to know some of your opinions on secondary fermentation. I.E. when to rack out the primary into a secondary. How long to leave your secondary. Ect ect ect. . . .
So what are your thoughts and methods?
I am thinking I will leave the primary in for What I hope will be 2/3 to 3/4 of the way fermented and then rack into my secondary. I have read that around 4 to 5 bubbles per minute in the air lock is when you are in this 2/3 to 3/4 range. Any thoughts on that? Oh and I want to prime the whole batch at the same time not individually in the bottle, When would be a good time to do this? and how do you prefer to do so?
Thanks
 
Just leave it in the primary for 3-4 weeks and bottle or keg. Unless you are adding fruit or dry hopping you don't really need to secondary. At the very least leave it in the primary until fermentation is complete and the secondary to clear. Try it both ways....you will see you don't really gain anything by transfering to a secondary.
 
+1 to no secondary... I just leave my beers for 3-4 weeks in primary, and have very very clear beers. Leaving it on the orginal yeast cake longer adds more cleanup anyway, removing more off flavors if any exist, and if none exist it just lets the beer clear out well and the yeast cake compact more, meaning transfer to keg/bottles has a decreased chance of yeast. I agree personally (and this is 100% a personal issue, this debate rages on these forums constantly) to only secondary if you're doing 2 things, adding something like dry hops or fruit, or needing to bulk age a beer for longer due to it being a complex, or bigger beer. I used to secondary all my beer, and never had an issue, but its more work, and didn't change, in my opinion, the final beer in any way from not using a secondary. Do what you like. If you enjoy the transfer phase, and getting a bit less yeast cake/trub in the secondary pre bottle/keg, then by all means do so. Ultimately what is most important is that you enjoy the brewing process and get to drink awesome beer you made yourself ;) RDWHAHB
 
If you are going to use a secondary (really a bright tank), make sure you let your beer completely finish before racking to secondary. Moving beer mid-fermentation can result in stuck fermentation. The words secondary fermentation is a misnomer, it should be called a bright tank. No fermentation in secondary, just aging and clearing.

Bulk priming is the only way to go. Boil up your priming sugar, pour it into bottling bucket and rack beer onto it. You can gently mix with a sanitized spoon but no splashing.
 
I have nothing to add to the question of when to secondary, other than I leave my beer in the primary for 3-4 weeks and have great clarity after.

The bulk priming question doesn't seem to have been addressed, so I will speak to that briefly.

When bulk priming for bottling usually one prepares a batch of priming solution, ~5 oz dextrose boiled in 1-2 cups water for 15 min. Allow to cool thoroughly and pour into the bottom of sanitized bottling bucket. Rack your beer on top of this solution, make sure the end of the siphon hose is below the level of the priming solution so the beer is not splashing violently against the side of the bucket when you rack it, you don't want to aerate/oxidize your beer at this point. The beer will gently whirlpool in the bucket and mix most of the priming solution in. Some people also stir gently with a sanitized spoon, or let the beer sit for 5-10 min. to allow for thorough mixing of the priming sugar into the beer. The beer is now primed and ready to bottle.

This is the most common method for bulk priming and, I imagine, is a hell of a lot easier than priming each bottle individually. ;) It also allows for more consistency and precision in priming the beer and provides an easy way to modify the priming sugar amounts for style specific carbonation levels.

There are some good threads by Revvy on this topic, as well as stickies somewhere. Maybe in the Beginner's forum?

Hope this helps :mug:
 
Thanks Guys! I really do want to use the secondary if for nothing but to help clear up the final product. I have had plenty home brews that have a **** ton of sediment in the bottom of the bottle. I think that this sediment not only looks bad (witch lets face it image is everything) but it also makes you want to avoid taking the last swallow that sits on top of it. The things I have read that say to rack out early are saying that when the yeast settles it starts to die and when it dies it releases bad flavors and such.

As for bulk priming I thought that it was the way to go, so thanks for the tips!

What are some of your methods on pitching yeast? I boiled a cup of watter and then covered it with foil until it got into the 70 degree range. I then added the yeast and let it sit till my brew hit 73 degrees and then I gently pored it in. 73 is room temp in my hose right now, seens how it is winter and a have an 8 month old son in the house. The big thing that had me worried, was that the yeast sat in the sterile watter for quite a while. Maybe an hour or two, it took a while to get the brew down to said 73 degrees. Fermentation took a little while to start, but within a couple of hours the air lock was going like a mo fo and come morning I had a mess to clean up. I then learned, after the fact about blow off tubes. so next time I will start with one.
Anyways I digress, do you think I let the yeast rehydrate to long if so will it affect the brew and how?

Thanks again!
P.S. If you didn't notice this is my first brew. I have noticed that everyone has there own way, I'm am just trying to find mine vicariously through you fine fellers.
 
Other then the fruit adjunct additions another good reason for racking to a secondary fermenter is to help clear up the brew without tying up a primary fermenter for an extended amount of time. Leaving it in the primary for 3-4 weeks does result in a more rigid yeast cake that has less potential of getting stirred back into the beer. But if don't have a lot of 6+ gallon vessels, then racking to a secondary of smaller size allows you to reclaim your primary for another batch. When you rack from primary to secondary you are removing the beer from the less dense yeast cake. Once in the secondary another smaller yeast cake will form when you let it sit 7-14 days (I secondary for 14 days). The smaller the yeast cake the less likely you are going to accidently stir dormant yeast/particulates back into the beer which will end up in the final product; unless you filter there will always be yeast (and hops) in the beer. When you rack to a bottling bucket or keg you are again removing the beer from the potential of stirring dormant yeast/particulates back into your beer and aiding in the clarity of the final product. Even with cold crashing there will be less sediment to contend with.

The biggest complaint about racking to the secondary is the potential to contaminate or oxidize the beer but if done properly e.g. not splashing the heck out of the beer, the beer will be fine. Purging a fermenter with C02 also helps. I stopped using buckets and switched to carboys and better bottles because of the smaller opening on top so the C02 will sit on the beer while I rack and the C02 purged into the secondary will remain there, for the most part because of the narrower opening while the beer siphons into it.

David
 
4 to 5 bubbles per minute???

How could you possibly tell how far along your fermentation is by such an indicator as that???????

That's like rolling a pair of dice and using that to determine the time of day.
 
Thanks Guys! I really do want to use the secondary if for nothing but to help clear up the final product. I have had plenty home brews that have a **** ton of sediment in the bottom of the bottle. I think that this sediment not only looks bad (witch lets face it image is everything) but it also makes you want to avoid taking the last swallow that sits on top of it. The things I have read that say to rack out early are saying that when the yeast settles it starts to die and when it dies it releases bad flavors and such.

As for bulk priming I thought that it was the way to go, so thanks for the tips!

What are some of your methods on pitching yeast? I boiled a cup of watter and then covered it with foil until it got into the 70 degree range. I then added the yeast and let it sit till my brew hit 73 degrees and then I gently pored it in. 73 is room temp in my hose right now, seens how it is winter and a have an 8 month old son in the house. The big thing that had me worried, was that the yeast sat in the sterile watter for quite a while. Maybe an hour or two, it took a while to get the brew down to said 73 degrees. Fermentation took a little while to start, but within a couple of hours the air lock was going like a mo fo and come morning I had a mess to clean up. I then learned, after the fact about blow off tubes. so next time I will start with one.
Anyways I digress, do you think I let the yeast rehydrate to long if so will it affect the brew and how?

Thanks again!
P.S. If you didn't notice this is my first brew. I have noticed that everyone has there own way, I'm am just trying to find mine vicariously through you fine fellers.

In regards to your first point I would point out that any time you bottle condition you will have sediment on the bottom of the bottles, the yeast eat the sugar and produce the CO2 that carbonates your beer. If you filter out the yeast before bottling you will not have carbonated beer. Unless you keg and force carb, but that is another thing altogether.

If you pour the beer slowly and stop when the yeast starts to come out (pouring to the shoulder) you will only leave about 1/4" of beer behind, not that great a loss.

And just like in bulk aging, the longer your beer sits in the bottle, the tighter the yeast cake will get.

Which brings me to your second point regarding the secondary. It sounds like you are referring to yeast autolysis, this has been determined to be not much of an issue by many of the heavy hitters in the home brewing community, including Palmer, Papazian, and Jamial, if you search the forum you will find extensive threads on this topic. But in a nut shell autolysis is a concern for commercial brewers because their fermentation conditions are some what different from that of a home brewer, greater pressures on the yeast, higher temps in the yeast cake, etc...

Plenty of people leave their beer in the primary for months and report no problems, quite the opposite, they say it's some of the best beer they have made.
I would like to try leaving a beer in primary for 3 months to see what happens, but I drink it too damn fast!;)

Seriously, do some forum searches for threads like primary/secondary, long primary vs secondary or something along those lines. Or look for Revvy's posts and blogs, he has written a lot on this topic here.

The best way to find out for yourself is to try it both ways and see I guess, but I really like the long primary, I don't risk interrupting my fermentation, oxidizing my beer, contaminating it with an extra process step, and (most importantly) I am inherently LAZY and it is so much easier to just leave it.

If you want clarity, cold crash after a 4 week primary, you'll be able to read through it! :D If clarity is not so important to you, don't cold crash and you can still read through it! Although you might have some chill haze until it warms up a little...

I think your yeast handling was fine, but many of the dry ale and lager yeasts don't even require rehydration. I usually dry pitch my safale yeasts and they haven't let me down yet.:rockin: Wine yeasts are different and can require rehydration and nutrients to minimize lag time.

My 2 cents
 
The bubbles, lol, I missed that.

It seems like some of the earlier editions of home brewing books are a little out of date, the authors have been revising some of these recommendations in current editions.

You should get a Hydrometer and learn to read it. Take a reading just before pitching to get an Original Gravity reading, and then the only other time it is really necessary is right before transferring or bottling. You want the same reading over a span of at least three days to ensure fermentation is complete.

You can also use 3 or 4 days after pitching if you are worried that your yeast isn't doing their job. Weekly is probably ok but excessive, daily is way to much.

It's easier than it sounds.

Good luck :mug:
 
4 to 5 bubbles per minute???

How could you possibly tell how far along your fermentation is by such an indicator as that??????
That's like rolling a pair of dice and using that to determine the time of day.

Hey thats just what I read, don't get all uppity on me. In fact I actually read it in a few different spots.

In regards to your first point I would point out that any time you bottle condition you will have sediment on the bottom of the bottles, the yeast eat the sugar and produce the CO2 that carbonates your beer. If you filter out the yeast before bottling you will not have carbonated beer. Unless you keg and force carb, but that is another thing altogether.

If you pour the beer slowly and stop when the yeast starts to come out (pouring to the shoulder) you will only leave about 1/4" of beer behind, not that great a loss.

And just like in bulk aging, the longer your beer sits in the bottle, the tighter the yeast cake will get.

Which brings me to your second point regarding the secondary. It sounds like you are referring to yeast autolysis, this has been determined to be not much of an issue by many of the heavy hitters in the home brewing community, including Palmer, Papazian, and Jamial, if you search the forum you will find extensive threads on this topic. But in a nut shell autolysis is a concern for commercial brewers because their fermentation conditions are some what different from that of a home brewer, greater pressures on the yeast, higher temps in the yeast cake, etc...

Plenty of people leave their beer in the primary for months and report no problems, quite the opposite, they say it's some of the best beer they have made.
I would like to try leaving a beer in primary for 3 months to see what happens, but I drink it too damn fast!;)

Seriously, do some forum searches for threads like primary/secondary, long primary vs secondary or something along those lines. Or look for Revvy's posts and blogs, he has written a lot on this topic here.

The best way to find out for yourself is to try it both ways and see I guess, but I really like the long primary, I don't risk interrupting my fermentation, oxidizing my beer, contaminating it with an extra process step, and (most importantly) I am inherently LAZY and it is so much easier to just leave it.

If you want clarity, cold crash after a 4 week primary, you'll be able to read through it! :D If clarity is not so important to you, don't cold crash and you can still read through it! Although you might have some chill haze until it warms up a little...

I think your yeast handling was fine, but many of the dry ale and lager yeasts don't even require rehydration. I usually dry pitch my safale yeasts and they haven't let me down yet.:rockin: Wine yeasts are different and can require rehydration and nutrients to minimize lag time.

My 2 cents

Thanks lots of good info! I have been reading any and all posts by revy that I can find he has a lot of knowledge!!!

The bubbles, lol, I missed that.

It seems like some of the earlier editions of home brewing books are a little out of date, the authors have been revising some of these recommendations in current editions.

You should get a Hydrometer and learn to read it. Take a reading just before pitching to get an Original Gravity reading, and then the only other time it is really necessary is right before transferring or bottling. You want the same reading over a span of at least three days to ensure fermentation is complete.

You can also use 3 or 4 days after pitching if you are worried that your yeast isn't doing their job. Weekly is probably ok but excessive, daily is way to much.

It's easier than it sounds.

Good luck :mug:
I have a hydrometer it read 1.042 before pitching the yeast. I am not trying to rush anything I am just eager to learn and would prefer not to screw up my first batch.

Also this is a forum and forums are for posting and learning so I am doing just that. I really appreciate the reply's but unfortunately I'm sure this wont be the last stupid rookie post I make. I like to have information coming and going. thats why I look and read and also start a post. many of times have I had the awesome people of a forum post a link to a thred that I had not stumbled upon yet.
The only dumb question is a question not asked, right?
 
I think if you got foamybubbles on top of the beerfor a few days there is no need to check a hydro until you get past 3 weeks. I just dida a reading after 2 1/2 and plan botteling at 3 weeks and it makes me nervous to just d.o that hydro. If u can see a good yeast cake on bottem, well then you know there doin there thing well.why check out of curiosity? I think im just gonna check at 3 week botteling time instead of the doin the 3 day check before botteling now. I dont see why anyone would rack when its bubbeling and when its not it doesnt mean its done.3 weeks gives me big releif from bottle bomb fear,or it not being fermated yet.And ive never had a problem dry pitching,one less step to worry about- get good yeast-dont worry much.
 
I don't think we're issued a limited number of stupid rookie post, at least I really, really hope we're not!:D
 
Yes, don't take that kind of reply too seriously, mightynintendo has made probably almost as many noon mistakes as I have made. Airlock activity is definitely not a measure, or lack thereof, of fermentation. You'll be fine though!
 
Yes, don't take that kind of reply too seriously, mightynintendo has made probably almost as many noon mistakes as I have made. Airlock activity is definitely not a measure, or lack thereof, of fermentation. You'll be fine though!

That's interesting - I am just beginning, but the homebrew supply store I just got set up with said to use one bubble every 90 seconds in the airlock as a guide to know when to transfer from the primary to secondary...
 
So what do you do if you never see any airlock activity? It happens all the time. Taking specific gravity readings is the only guaranteed way to ensure you know where fermentation is. Once you get three or more consecutive days without gravity changes, fermentation is basically done.
 
I'm sure he is hearing the same things I am. That doing a secondary around 3/4 of the fermentation is how to do it. Looks like there is either lot of different takes on the subject. You don't think it has something to do with the difference between extracts and ag. Do you???
 
That's interesting - I am just beginning, but the homebrew supply store I just got set up with said to use one bubble every 90 seconds in the airlock as a guide to know when to transfer from the primary to secondary...

I'm sure he is hearing the same things I am. That doing a secondary around 3/4 of the fermentation is how to do it. Looks like there is either lot of different takes on the subject. You don't think it has something to do with the difference between extracts and ag. Do you???

When I didn't see any bubbles in my first beer my LHBS guy asked me if I had taken a hydrometer reading, and then suggested I do before doing anything else with my beer.

I spent $6 on a hydrometer and found out I missed all of the "active" part of my fermentation while I was asleep. It had dropped about 0,035 points in about 36 hours. No krausen, no bubbles, but at FG.
If I was counting bubbles I would have pitched two or three more packs of yeast, warmed it, shook it, and dumped it because it "never fermented" (ie never bubbled or developed a thick heavy krausen that I saw)

As far as moving it while the gravity is dropping, I know you need to do this with wines, but they can take MONTHS to primary. And from some of the posts I've seen moving beer while the gravity is dropping seems to lead to high final gravities and poor attenuation.

I don't think this has anything to do with AG vs. Extract. It is a little different I think for really big beers, like +1.090 OG. Then most of the fermentation, like 0.065 points might come off in the first month or two and then it will be racked to a bright tank and drop another 10 points or so. I'm not sure though, because I haven't done anything quite that big yet, besides of ciders and meads. (Biggest yet; Wee Heavy 1.083 OG; partial boil extract w/steep grains:rockin:)
 
Thanks Doug I really appreciate the help. I probably would of freaked out had I not seen some action in the airlock.
 
using airlock activity as a guide for anything assumes a lot, like:

* you have a perfect seal (you don't)
* all yeast ferments at the same rate regardless of the yeast strain (um, no)
* all fermentation temperatures are the same, regardless of ambient temperature (that's just stupid)
* all barometric pressures are the same regardless of the barometric pressure (we're borderline idiocracy)
* the pressure in every fermentation chamber is the same regardless of the fermentation chamber (do you see where i'm going with this?)

all of these can affect airlock activity.
 
Doug, I've done a Tripel recently and it took 3 weeks to get from 1.091 down to 1.014. It may be the case w/ bigger (barleywines 1.100+) but the bigger issue w/ that high of a beer is that the alcohol kills the yeast at that high a level. Ultimately the only beers that need to 'ferment' longer are lagers. You still get almost all the fermentation done and then drop them to just above freezing, maybe 36degF. and leave them there for weeks if not months longer, which slowly drops the FG down a bit more, maybe a few points, and really gets a clean beer. I've done a few lagers and had that happen. Otherwise, its rare for fermentation to not be done after 10 days or so, but its highly recommended by myself and many others here to leave it on the cake at least 3 weeks if not 4 to clear up the beer and make it less 'green'. The higher the ABV beer, the longer you can leave it to clean up. This tripel still tastes wonderful at 4 weeks and I've kegged it. Still a touch alcohol hotness, which will mellow in the keg over time.
 
well I'm a rookie, I'm lazy, AND I'm poor ... so this no secondary thing is really good news to me ... great feed here ... cheers all !!
 
Thanks for the info pompeii!
So it sounds like even with really big beers you don't want to move them while they're still fermenting, am I reading that right?

Like I said, the biggest thing I've done is this wee heavy, and I'm leaving that in primary for a month before I bottle. I'll probably try for something bigger when I figure out how to get more than 9 lbs. of extract in to a 2 gal partial boil. :drunk:

:off:
Seriously though, I think I'm going to stick with sessions for a while. Big beers are fun to try to do well, having them come off nice and balanced and not hot, but after 1 or 2 of them I'm loaded and I would like to have a few different brews on hand that I can drink all night with out getting too wrecked. ;)

When you lager, do you move it to a secondary before lagering it? Or do people lager in their primaries too?

Thanks again for clearing that up. Hate to give out bad info, I should prorobably try harder to not chime in when I'm not certain about something. I just had a feeling if I said NEVER move a beer while it is still fermenting, someone would have a case where you should. But I really don't see why it would be necessary.

Thanks again :mug:
 
using airlock activity as a guide for anything assumes a lot, like:

* you have a perfect seal (you don't)
* all yeast ferments at the same rate regardless of the yeast strain (um, no)
* all fermentation temperatures are the same, regardless of ambient temperature (that's just stupid)
* all barometric pressures are the same regardless of the barometric pressure (we're borderline idiocracy)
* the pressure in every fermentation chamber is the same regardless of the fermentation chamber (do you see where i'm going with this?)

all of these can affect airlock activity.

Good to know, I think you have really pounded the whole airlock bubble count thing in there!!! I promise I wont forget it. Tell me then what is your take on the whole secondary/bright tank thing???
 
Good to know, I think you have really pounded the whole airlock bubble count thing in there!!! I promise I wont forget it. Tell me then what is your take on the whole secondary/bright tank thing???

I made this a while back...

secondary_flowchart.jpg
 
Well thats a very nice little treasure map, thanks for sharing I think I will copy and paste that to a file till I can remember it. Thanks!
 
I've done it both ways......you should too. Find out what works best for you.

For me 3-4 weeks in primary works very nicely. For you, it may well be different; and that's fine. Figure out what will work for your needs.
 
That's interesting - I am just beginning, but the homebrew supply store I just got set up with said to use one bubble every 90 seconds in the airlock as a guide to know when to transfer from the primary to secondary...

Do yourself a favour and don't ask that store for advice any more :)

I'm sure he is hearing the same things I am. That doing a secondary around 3/4 of the fermentation is how to do it. Looks like there is either lot of different takes on the subject. You don't think it has something to do with the difference between extracts and ag. Do you???
Wort is wort, it doesn't mater if your poured it from a can, scooped it from a bag, or extracted it from grains yourself. I think we need to started a concerted effort to permanently change 'secondary fermentor' to 'ageing tank' or some such similar term. Just the concept of measuring '3/4' of fermentation is suspect, and airlock activity, as has been drilled into your skull in this thread already, is certainly not a useful indicator of anything other than some kind of gas inside your fermenter is looking to escape. Could be due to gas production by active yeast, or it could simply be due to some combination of pressure/temperature changes. Without wanting to sound like a *****enozzle, anyone that tells you to move actively fermenting beer, be it 1/2, 3/4, or 99/100 of the way done, is giving plain bad advice and should be shunned from any contact with your brewing practices.

Thanks Doug I really appreciate the help. I probably would of freaked out had I not seen some action in the airlock.
Best thing you can do for your beer when you first start brewing is NEVER freak out :mug:
 
what gets me about"clear beer" is how big beers like miller or bud bragg about being triple filtered or whatever and nobody cares and just drinks these out of cans or bottles andway,they kind of suck in draft anyway.
 
OK, so the recipe I am using calls for dry hopping so I am planning to transfer to a secondary. I can see where relying on airlock bubbles to know when to transfer is total guess work, so I should i do it using the hydrometer?

This is my first batch of homebrew, its an IPA. I did a partial boil starting with 3.5 gallons since I bought an 8 gallon pot, and I used 12oz of 60L crystal grains, 9 lbs light malt extract and 2 ounces each of citra and zeus hops (with .5 oz of citra reserved for dry hopping). The yeast was one packet of dry Safale US-05 pitched at ~66 degrees. The OG that I measured was ~1.061 after adjusting for temp (assuming my reading was correct). It's been fermenting at ~68 degrees for a couple of days now.

I read that it's good to have most but not all of the fermentation complete when you transfer, like around 95%. According to the beer calculus I should have an FG around ~1.017 for this recipe while the recipator says it should be ~1.020.

If that is the case, then I would want to transfer to secondary somewhere between 1.022 and 1.019, right? I assume the best way to test this is to remove the stopper and airlock and use a turkey baster to get a sample through the hole in the bucket, but is there any harm in doing that multiple times as needed assuming everything is sanitized?

Does it make sense to try to be that precise about it, or should I just not measure, leave it undisturbed for a week and then transfer?
 
If you leave it in primary for 4 weeks, you can throw the dry hops in after the third week and not worry about transferring until you're ready to bottle or keg. The beer will clear fine this way.

If you really want to secondary you should wait until the gravity is stable (same reading over 3 days) or you run the risk of the beer not fully attenuating. Usually it's safe to check the gravity when ever you want, most people don't until they're ready to rack the beer.

my 2 cents...
 
+1 D0ug. But if you want to dry hop a bit longer, then you can definitely transfer after fermentation is stable for 3days in a row. Checking with a well sanitized basted will not hurt, just don't put the sample back in. Drink it or throw it out.

Edit: if you transfer early like D0ug said it can stall or slow fermentation, so be sure it's very close to done.
 
Thanks guys. As a total beginner I am grateful for the advice. I was told by my LHBS that I still want some fermentation to be happening in the secondary (like 5% left) or else there will be no CO2 to displace the oxygen layer, so I would think that if I waited until the reading was stable for 3 days it would all be done at that point?
 
I haven't had a beer oxidize from the air in the headspace when I have moved it to a secondary vessel after fermentation is complete.
1) There is a lot of CO2 in solution that will work its way out after you rack.
2) You will not be leaving it for months and months, like a wine.
3) You will not be splashing and sloshing your beer when you rack it right? That is what poses the biggest threat of oxidation to beers. Violent handling after fermentation that mixes air into the brew.

But really, if you leave it in the primary you won't have to worry about any of that. Add the hops carefully and you should be all set. Let them sit for 7,10,14 days, or what ever your hopping schedule calls for. Many people are dry hopping in the primary now after fermentation with no problems.

Or follow the advice from your LHBS, at the worst the ferment will stall and you'll just have a slightly sweeter beer. No big deal, just don't start a high FG thread ;)

Good luck :mug:
 
3 week primary, 1 week bottle

img0699s.jpg


looks pretty clear to me. :ban::tank:

Edit: in the interest of full disclosure :D this was only an OG 1.055, FG 1.016 brew, and I DID add a 1/2 teaspoon of irish moss 10 min from flame out.;) US-05, fermentor tem ~64-66*F.

But still...
 
Wait until you chill it to boast about clarity :p

OK, ok! :D

The mudroom in my house...

Do you guys have mud rooms in San Diego? We sure got 'em in Maine!

Anyway, the mud room seems to be averaging 42-38*F. Do you think that's cold enough to cold crash in?
 
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