apple trees struggling first year

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ThePrisoner

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I have quite a few different type of hardy apple trees but it was a tough winter.
They were planted as bare root so they started very slowly this year.
The some caterpillars came in and stunted the leaf growth.
They seem to be doing ok again now but it's August and they only have 2 months left before the cold comes back.
I suspect as it's their 1st year in this new location, they may be concentrating on root growth (they were a mix of 1-2 ft high already when planted so must have had a growing year before).
How does the tree decide whether to focus on root growth or leaf growth and how can I tell? Anything I can do to help them?
 
All you can do is standard tree care. Mulch them and feed them and make sure they don't dry out, keep them protected from herbivores.
 
Pardon my PUI in this case (I'm about 5 pints in, so if this doesn't make sense I'm sorry) but when did you actually plant them - this spring, or further back than that? You mentioned a tough winter so I'm figuring they've been through a winter at least already. If they're looking ok at this point I wouldn't worry too much. Maybe when fall rolls around protect them with some straw/mulch (burlap around the trunks and pile the mulch up around them) if you're really worried. I doubt it'll be much of an issue though. I planted 2 apple trees and 1 peach tree back in the spring here in north central Ohio and they had a rough first month or so as it took forever to decide to warm up (we were still seeing lows in the mid 40s at the beginning of June), and they're doing fine now. A month or so in there was barely a leaf to be found, and now they're all covered in leaves and new growth. I should probably protect them for this coming winter but I'm really not worried - if they're leafy and look decent at this point they'll probably be fine.

FWIW I planted a cabernet sauvignon grape vine not far from where I live now about 7 years back just to see what would happen. It never managed to produce anything but it DID survive, in a zone that it never should have made it in. (Against all odds, buds opened in the spring following temperatures of -15 during the winter...10 to 20 degrees colder than what the variety is expected to survive). I feel that plants are awfully tough and will often survive much more than what is expected.

Keep in mind that trees have grown for millions of years without us babying them - the truth is, if they're going to make it, they'll make it on their own. If they're not going to make it, we may nurse them through a tough spell but eventually they'll succumb. Make sure they're watered and reasonably protected, and past that, I'd say leave it up to nature.
 
mozart4898 said:
Pardon my PUI in this case (I'm about 5 pints in, so if this doesn't make sense I'm sorry) but when did you actually plant them - this spring, or further back than that? You mentioned a tough winter so I'm figuring they've been through a winter at least already. If they're looking ok at this point I wouldn't worry too much. Maybe when fall rolls around protect them with some straw/mulch (burlap around the trunks and pile the mulch up around them) if you're really worried. I doubt it'll be much of an issue though. I planted 2 apple trees and 1 peach tree back in the spring here in north central Ohio and they had a rough first month or so as it took forever to decide to warm up (we were still seeing lows in the mid 40s at the beginning of June), and they're doing fine now. A month or so in there was barely a leaf to be found, and now they're all covered in leaves and new growth. I should probably protect them for this coming winter but I'm really not worried - if they're leafy and look decent at this point they'll probably be fine.

FWIW I planted a cabernet sauvignon grape vine not far from where I live now about 7 years back just to see what would happen. It never managed to produce anything but it DID survive, in a zone that it never should have made it in. (Against all odds, buds opened in the spring following temperatures of -15 during the winter...10 to 20 degrees colder than what the variety is expected to survive). I feel that plants are awfully tough and will often survive much more than what is expected.

Keep in mind that trees have grown for millions of years without us babying them - the truth is, if they're going to make it, they'll make it on their own. If they're not going to make it, we may nurse them through a tough spell but eventually they'll succumb. Make sure they're watered and reasonably protected, and past that, I'd say leave it up to nature.
Click to expand...

They were planted in October last year as advised by the local tree place (bare root & dormant) but since then I've heard spring might have been better.
They also took forever to start this year and being planted bare root, maybe the roots had to grow too?

They have leaves but it's not like they're branching out much. The leaves are all close to the tree.

I have plastic tree protectors - is that ok instead of burlap?

Next spring, I need to put something on them to keep the caterpillars off or should I do that before winter?
 
ThePrisoner said:
They were planted in October last year as advised by the local tree place (bare root & dormant) but since then I've heard spring might have been better.
They also took forever to start this year and being planted bare root, maybe the roots had to grow too?

They have leaves but it's not like they're branching out much. The leaves are all close to the tree.

I have plastic tree protectors - is that ok instead of burlap?

Next spring, I need to put something on them to keep the caterpillars off or should I do that before winter?
Click to expand...
They're probably fine. Mine have branched out ~4-8" from the trunk after being planted this spring but I doubt that yours are in trouble. Yes, bare root trees will definitely need to put on some root growth. Didn't catch where you're from but if you're not getting a decent amount of rain, make sure from now until when trees drop their leaves in your area, the trees are getting a good soaking probably at least once a week. One good deep watering per week would probably be better than several short waterings - it'll encourage the roots to grow out further. You don't want them sitting in a pond, but you do want the ground good and wet.

As far as the burlap idea - think putting 3 or 4 stakes around the trunk about oh, 6-12" away from it, and then wrapping burlap around the outside of the stakes, so you'd have an enclosed area inside the burlap that includes the tree. Fill that up with leaves, straw, etc, and it'd insulate the trunk and the ground where the roots are developing. The tree protector would be better than nothing but you probably can't get much in the way of insulation in there and it won't be enough to make much difference. They're more for protection from animals. FWIW I've heard at least with grape vines that most damage comes from sudden drastic drops in temperatures in late fall/early winter, and not so much from how cold it actually gets - of course within reason. You're just looking to moderate the temperature changes for them while they're still pretty tender. The fact they've been through one winter already and awakened this spring means you're probably fine regardless.
 
Do Not feed them now, they should be hardening off for the upcoming winter preparing the buds to mature, if you pour on some fertilizer you might stimulate new growth that wont make it thru the winter. Wrapping the trunks up in burlap and then putting leaves around them sounds like a great place for mice to live all winter while they gnaw at the bark. It would be nice to know where you are at when asking for tree growth advice, in the great north or on the coasts? WVMJ
 
WVMJ said:
Do Not feed them now, they should be hardening off for the upcoming winter preparing the buds to mature, if you pour on some fertilizer you might stimulate new growth that wont make it thru the winter. Wrapping the trunks up in burlap and then putting leaves around them sounds like a great place for mice to live all winter while they gnaw at the bark. It would be nice to know where you are at when asking for tree growth advice, in the great north or on the coasts? WVMJ
Click to expand...

thought it was attached with eh username but I'm in Canada.
We get a lot of snow so keeping them warm, that usually does the job.
Mice and field rodents and deer could be an issue so last year I put plastic spirals on and then mulched with leaves around that but that onl really protected the bottom.
The top half of every tree this year did not grow, no sure if they dried out or were exposed to much or it was a transplantation issue...just seemed strange that evertything that poked above the snow cover died off.
 
I thought we had a bad winter last year, even our trees in pots lived outside. There is another thread on pasturizing juice this week, check it out, another cider guy in the cold! WVMJ
 
2 of the worst ones (they've been like this most of the summer. No extra long shoot growth)


 
I'll second the opinion on not wrapping with burlap or mulching up next to the trunks. The rodents will love it though. Wrapping the tops in a plastic mesh (as used to keep birds off of berries) this winter may deter deer from nibbling back any thing protruding above the snow. At this point, I'd just stay the course. I planted 14 apple trees this summer, and hey range from beautifully feathered out to a single, limited growth spindle. So some went through less shock with the dry root shipping and transport or liked their new home better Han others. It's a patience game.
 
I planted four back in January--one Arkansas Black, one Royal Limbertwig and two Blanco crabapples. The two crabs haven't grown much, but they're reputed to be slow growers. The other two (both bareroot) maybe doubled in size from 2-foot whips. They're not quite that big now, because deer slipped in one night when the gate was left open... Of course, we had an unusually wet spring, which helped their growth. Being in Texas, my problems are different than yours--we've gone almost two months without any rain and blistering heat. I've had to break out the watering bags.

This coming year, I plan to add four more crabs and at least one more apple. Amazing the adaptability this tree species has with all the different climates they tolerated.
 
Trees will grow roots first. Nutrient uptake for top growth will occur when the root system is large enough to draw the nutrients needed for top growth. In the meantime the above ground stem needs to be protected from mice, girdling below expected snow level and deer, above the snow level.

I wrap my seedling stems, to expected snow height, with tree wrap and spray the tree wrap with pruning sealer. (The tar like pruning sealer should not be used on pruning wounds. Petroleum products like this will prevent natural scar tissue from being produced.) I cage the trees with 6" by 6" concrete reinforcing mesh for protection from the larger animals. (This mesh is rather cheap.)

The mesh can even be electrified, with a cattle fencer, to protect an apple crop from bears.
 
On the first year as long as they have nice green leaves that is about all you can expect for growth. trees do almost all the growing in the spring and then spend the rest of the summer hardening off. Since yours were in "shock" yet this spring due to just being planted they missed that spring shoot of growth. But they still were growing roots.

The spiral wraps to prevent sun scald this winter are a good idea. With plenty of snow that should be all you need. Next year you will get growth you can see.
 

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