Cooler mash tun isn't turning out so well.

I have started to make a cooler mash tun. Based on what I was able to buy today at several random stores, I have the following:

2 o rings
1 ball valve
1 nipple
2 washers
(can't remember the name, but we will call it piece X) - 1 piece for the inside of the cooler that screws on the end of the nipple

I attempted to assemble it in the following manner from inside to outside:

Piece X, washer, o-ring, nipple, o-ring, washer, ball valve

It drips through the outside near the o ring. If anyone's confused by this I can upload pictures later.

A pic definitely helps. Most coolers have some type of special rubber washer that is part of the original spigot set up - it usually flares out on the inside of the cooler and then plugs into the opening for the spigot. Reusing this washer in conjunction with your new parts means you have a good fit and usually they are sufficient for warmer temps - at leas for a while.

i think your piece x is likely a coupling. If piece X is indeed a coupling you have the correct pieces. How big are your O Rings? How big did you drill the hole? The nipple should fit tight when installed in cooler applications.

Also if you pieced these together from different stores, is it possible you have wrong threads (fine vs course)? You could also try to use some silicon.

My suggestion is just by this set from bargain fittings. They are extremly reasonable, and shipp quickly.

I didn't purchase my mash tun hardware from bargain fittings, thought i probably should have. I went to plumping stores around the city today to piece something together.

I found the original cooler rubber piece that is supposed to go in there, so I am re-using that now, however it's still leaking.

These pictures were taken before I replaced the large washer on the inside with the stock cooler one.

http://imgur.com/CwTFI
http://imgur.com/0nrSP

EDIT:

Also, is it safe if I use teflon tape in this? I did this earlier and it still leaked but I'm not 100% positive it's okay for the beer.

try taking the o ring off the out side of the cooler. I dont think its necessary. It can cause issues. yes teflon tape is ok to use and SHOULD be used on this type of application. i like your idea of using the original gasket, thats what i did to mine - no leaks.

If you over tighten the connections you can crush the o ring on the inside and cause it to leak. It is counter intuitive, but loosen things up a bit.

The nut that bargain fittings provides in their kit has a channel in it to protect the o ring. The bargain fittings kit is GREAT. Mine went in in less than five minutes and has never leaked.

Okay I removed the o ring on the outside, then I loosened it off a bit and re-applied the teflon tape. So far no leaks!!

I will check back in an hour (I put some paper towel below it to see if it leaks) and I'll post back the results

The place that is most problematic is between your partX and the metal washer. Liquid goes between them, hits the nipple threads and winds around past your Oring. You can try to pack those threads full of teflon tape to prevent it.

ninjai said:

I went to plumping stores around the city today

Click to expand...

Intinerary..
7am Crispy Creme
8am Dennys for a grand slam
9am Crispy Creme.. (why not it's Saturday!)
10am sees candy
11am Pizza Hut
12pm Crispy Creme (man this pace looks familiar)
1pm McDonalds
2 pm Beer store
3 pm sale on twinkies at WinCo
4 pm Luigi's italian restaraunt
5 pm nappy time

Bobby_M said:

The place that is most problematic is between your partX and the metal washer. Liquid goes between them, hits the nipple threads and winds around past your Oring. You can try to pack those threads full of teflon tape to prevent it.

Click to expand...

Bobby, can he solder the fitting to the washer to address that leak point?

Go to bargainfittings.com. He has a diagram for installing weldless fittings. Use teflon tape and if you can't get a leak proof seal try some FDA food grade sealant. I had to do that on one of mine and have not had a problem since. I got it from McMaster-Car. Here is a link:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7545a471/=aidtol

edit:
I see you are a hoser. I'm not sure McMaster ships to Canada, but maybe you can find the stuff I posted if you need it.

Take off, eh!

limulus said:

edit:
I see you are a hoser. I'm not sure McMaster ships to Canada, but maybe you can find the stuff I posted if you need it.

Click to expand...

BrewMoreBeers said:

Bobby, can he solder the fitting to the washer to address hat leak point?

Click to expand...

That's my solution for sure.

This is a drawing I did a few years ago for myself (it's loosely based on one by John Palmer):



1. 1/4" Barb (I'm actually using a reducer coupling on the inside now to attach a copper fitting for my manifold)
2. 1/2" SS Fender washer (I drilled out to 5/8")
3. Original cooler washer (this is what I was talking about in my earlier post)
4. 3/8" x 1 1/2" nipple
5. 3/8" Ball Valve
6. 1/4" Barb
7. 5/8" Galv Fender Washer (used 3 of them to provide snug fit of other components)
8. O-ring (only for the lateral stability of nipple through opening)
9. Cooler itself

I have a 7 gallon and a 10 gallon MLT that I have been using for years with absolutely NO leaks!

That's an awesome drawing. Thanks all. I finished it with minimal leaking (I really mean _minimal_). I brewed my first all-grain batch last night and the heat retention was excellent. The temperature didn't budge the whole hour.