Do you know a bit about Electricity?

the75 · Mar 17, 2013

I don't & I think I bought the wrong temperature controller...
I bought this:
"Control Products TC-9102D-LV Dual Stage Low Voltage Digital Temperature Controller"

Here is the ad: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057APQPC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I planned on using this to control my chest freezer & a small heater for dual stage control, but I didn't notice there were low voltage & high voltage models. My mistake, but figured I'd check here to see if anyone knows whether or not this will still work before I return it. Any help would really be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

twallin · Mar 17, 2013

Your freezer is pretty low voltage, this controller will work fine for you.

P-J · Mar 17, 2013

Another thread:

homebrewtalk -Control Products TC-9102D-LV Dual Stage Digital Temperature Controller

processhead · Mar 17, 2013

According to the data sheet, the low voltage version requires a 12-24 AC power source to operate it.

It will work, you will just need to add a transformer to step down the 120 volts ac to 24 volts ac.

The hv model works is powered directly from 120 volts AC and would be the cleaner design.

http://www.controlproductsonline.com/documents/TC-9102 Manual 42420054A.pdf

the75 · Mar 17, 2013

P-J said:
Another thread:

homebrewtalk -Control Products TC-9102D-LV Dual Stage Digital Temperature Controller

That thread doesn't answer my question, but thanks for posting.

the75 · Mar 17, 2013

processhead said:
According to the data sheet, the low voltage version requires a 12-24 AC power source to operate it.

It will work, you will just need to add a transformer to step down the 120 volts ac to 24 volts ac.

The hv model works is powered directly from 120 volts AC and would be the cleaner design.

http://www.controlproductsonline.com/documents/TC-9102 Manual 42420054A.pdf

This is exactly what I needed to know. I should have gone hv, but glad to know I can still make it work. Thanks for the help.

adamreef · Mar 17, 2013

twallin said:
Your freezer is pretty low voltage, this controller will work fine for you.

This is scary wrong.

processhead said:
According to the data sheet, the low voltage version requires a 12-24 AC power source to operate it.

It will work, you will just need to add a transformer to step down the 120 volts ac to 24 volts ac.

The hv model works is powered directly from 120 volts AC and would be the cleaner design.

http://www.controlproductsonline.com/documents/TC-9102 Manual 42420054A.pdf

I'm not sure this is accurate either. If the LV version works like the HV version, you can only switch the input voltage. My guess is that the LV version is designed to work as a signal to a device that has it's own relays (kind of like your furnace thermostat).

In any case, you definitely want to return what you bought and get the high voltage version. It will be cheaper and easier in the long run, and will require some electrical know-how.

Disclaimer: I am not an electrician, but I am a pretty accomplished electrical DIY'er and have wired two of these controllers recently. If you aren't comfortable with wiring this, get help from someone who is.

Adam

processhead · Mar 17, 2013

adamreef said:
This is scary wrong.

I'm not sure this is accurate either. If the LV version works like the HV version, you can only switch the input voltage. My guess is that the LV version is designed to work as a signal to a device that has it's own relays (kind of like your furnace thermostat).

In any case, you definitely want to return what you bought and get the high voltage version. It will be cheaper and easier in the long run, and will require some electrical know-how.

Disclaimer: I am not an electrician, but I am a pretty accomplished electrical DIY'er and have wired two of these controllers recently. If you aren't comfortable with wiring this, get help from someone who is.

Adam

See specifications section of data sheet link. http://www.controlproductsonline.com/documents/TC-9102 Manual 42420054A.pdf

Both versions have relay contacts that are compatible with the load of a freezer. The relay contacts will be wired to switch 120 volts AC to your freezer and heater

The only real difference between the LV and HV models is the supply voltage required for the controller.

The HV version will be a cleaner build since it won't require an extra stepdown transformer, but the LV version will work fine.

reynolds5520 · Mar 17, 2013

adamreef said:
I'm not sure this is accurate either. If the LV version works like the HV version, you can only switch the input voltage.

The description says it has two 20 amp relays. If that is accurate, then you just need a furnace style transformer for the 24 VAC power source.

the75 · Mar 17, 2013

Ok, so it looks like this is all coming down to power source. I will not be able to plug this straight into an outlet. I will need to get a transformer between my wall outlet & this controller. Correct? I bought this one for $18 compared to $60, so if I can spend a few more dollars & make it work, I'd like to save the cash. I really appreciate all of you chiming in here to help me out.

processhead · Mar 17, 2013

the75 said:
Ok, so it looks like this is all coming down to power source. I will not be able to plug this straight into an outlet. I will need to get a transformer between my wall outlet & this controller. Correct? I bought this one for $18 compared to $60, so if I can spend a few more dollars & make it work, I'd like to save the cash. I really appreciate all of you chiming in here to help me out.

Yes, you are correct. You should be able to pick up a 120/24 VAC transformer to supply this controller.

reynolds5520 · Mar 17, 2013

the75 said:
Ok, so it looks like this is all coming down to power source. I will not be able to plug this straight into an outlet. I will need to get a transformer between my wall outlet & this controller. Correct?

That is correct.

I looked up the manual on the manufacturers web site. You can power it with anything from 12 VAC to 24 VAC or with 24 VDC. They don't spec the current requirements though.

You should be fine with a 24 v transformer sold for furnace applications, a 16 v transformer for doorbells may work too, depending on the current requirements.

Here is something at Home Depot that should work:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202312933?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=transformer&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=202312933

P-J · Mar 17, 2013

the75 said:
Ok, so it looks like this is all coming down to power source. I will not be able to plug this straight into an outlet. I will need to get a transformer between my wall outlet & this controller. Correct? I bought this one for $18 compared to $60, so if I can spend a few more dollars & make it work, I'd like to save the cash. I really appreciate all of you chiming in here to help me out.

Here is one that would work for you & you could probably mount it within you panel.
https://www.combustiondepot.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=12432

You can probably pick up a similar one at ACE, HomeDepot or Lowe's.

the75 · Mar 17, 2013

P-J said:
Here is one that would work for you & you could probably mount it within you panel.
https://www.combustiondepot.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=12432

You can probably pick up a similar one at ACE, HomeDepot or Lowe's.

Sweet! I like the price. I'll give this a go. If I return to post a picture of my final wiring, then you'll know I'm still alive.

Toymaker · Mar 17, 2013

You could use a wall wart style too.
Here's an example..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INFINITY-OP...211?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337f1dfa8b

the75 · Mar 17, 2013

Toymaker said:
You could use a wall wart style too.
Here's an example..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INFINITY-OP...211?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337f1dfa8b

I was wondering about that. I have a bunch of those that I've saved, hopefully one is strong enough.

reynolds5520 · Mar 17, 2013

Read the labels carefully on any wallwarts you try. Most are probably DC.

the75 · Mar 17, 2013

reynolds5520 said:
Read the labels carefully on any wallwarts you try. Most are probably DC.

Gotcha! I think all of mine are DC, but worth a look. I'm wondering if radio shack might have something that will work.

day_trippr · Mar 17, 2013

the75 said:
Gotcha! I think all of mine are DC, but worth a look. I'm wondering if radio shack might have something that will work.

Sadly, it's doubtful The Shack will have anything actually useful.
For anything.

Around here they are glorified cell phone and battery stores...

Cheers!

reynolds5520 · Mar 17, 2013

The shack used to have a good selection of stuff that would work. Not their thing anymore. Anything they have will be way more expensive than something at Home Depot, Lowes, Etc.

adamreef · Mar 18, 2013

processhead said:
See specifications section of data sheet link. http://www.controlproductsonline.com/documents/TC-9102 Manual 42420054A.pdf

Both versions have relay contacts that are compatible with the load of a freezer. The relay contacts will be wired to switch 120 volts AC to your freezer and heater

The only real difference between the LV and HV models is the supply voltage required for the controller.

The HV version will be a cleaner build since it won't require an extra stepdown transformer, but the LV version will work fine.

After re-reading the spec sheet, I do agree that the LV unit will safely switch your freezer. That said, it will take more time and money to find, buy and install more parts and leave you with a more complex set-up. Why bother with all of that when you can just return the LV version and get a HV version?

Adam

the75 · Mar 18, 2013

adamreef said:
After re-reading the spec sheet, I do agree that the LV unit will safely switch your freezer. That said, it will take more time and money to find, buy and install more parts and leave you with a more complex set-up. Why bother with all of that when you can just return the LV version and get a HV version?

Adam

Well, mainly cost. I got this unit for $18. The units normally go for $56ish. I still have to go buy parts to complete this as it needs to be wired with an outlet. Even if I get the HV version, I'll still have to wire it with a junction box & an outlet. The only thing I'd be avoiding would be adding the transformer as far as I can tell.

Do you know a bit about Electricity?

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