Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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I agree with Getafix; If you're only gonna brew 5g batches, go with the 20L.

-It has a smaller footprint and is easier to handle (anyone can lift the malt pipe with one hand)
-It is less expensive
-It needs less power. I haven't got around to fully understand US electrics and what kinds of outlets people usually have in their homes but here in Norway the 20L can run off a very common 10A outlet while the 50L will need a 16A which is usually only installed where needed.
-It can brew quite big beers and with some DME as big as you want.
I'm sipping an IPA right now that was 1.072 without doing any double mashing or adding DME
 
The last 2 beers I made with the Braumeister were an Old Bavarian Weissbier and another version of a Kelheim Weissbier. Both beers have been in the bottle for over a month. I use Speise collected post chilling to carbonate most of the beers I make or a Speise/Sugar combo for non-German style beers.

Currently I am less concerned with beer color and haze, and am happy to be making high quality, delicious beer. The OBW really suprised me, initially it was a bit more malty than I like, but has balanced out nicely. The Kelheim is almost my ideal Hefe, it has a good balance between clove, banana, light malt and is highly carbonated. Both still need some tweaking though.

I am still using my Victoria (Corona) mill but am looking to get a Barley Crusher soon. The Victoria was good enough for my batch sparging days, where a fine crush with quite a bit of flour worked. I have to double or triple crush with it if I want it coarse, and the Braumeister works best with a coarse crush.

I noticed a bit of channeling on my last Kelheim Weissbier brew near the end of conversion, so paused the program and stirred the mash. I usually use rice hulls (didn't this time) but would prefer not to unless really necessary.

With simpler mash schedules and minimal data logging my brewdays are down to 6 hours, but the weather here in Toronto has been so nice I haven't been able to brew as much as I like. I am selfishly hoping for a couple of nasty snowfalls so that I can replenish the pipeline.
 
.75" FPT. When I get home I'll post some options for fittings. Another gentleman on this forum and myself have found some good but not so easy to find parts.

Hi again,

I have tried 0.75", but it does not fit. It is not NPT/FPT.
The thread is finer than US threading. Also, there is no pipe taper.
I am a little lost - the OD is either exactly 1" or 26mm, the thread is slighly less than 2mm - this is not making sense, because the metric 2mm threading is usually on M27, on smaller ones the thread is 1.5mm

I emailed Ralph, he is usually very helpful.
 
Considering one of these to replace my old Sabco Brew Magic. The Brew Magic has served me well, and there's really no reason to replace it other than to simplify. I'm building a new home, and switching to electric would be a cool option for me. Forgive me for not reading through this entire thread. I did skim it. Some of these questions may have been addressed already!

A few questions:
-I mostly make 12 gal. batches to end up with 10.8 to fill a firkin or two pins. I'm worried about the size. I can barely get the volume I'm looking for with my 15gal. converted kegs. Yeah, I can use some tricks to get where I need to be, but will I be disappointed?

-The most interesting part of brewing for me is fermentation and conditioning. AG brewing is just a way to get to that end goal, so efficiency and easy clean up are important for me. This seems like an upgrade to me? True? Simplifying my process is a plus for me. This seems like a step in the right direction?

-It seems like there are several places to purchase a Brewmeister. Where is the best for price and service?

-Has this proven to be a reliable system? I remember when it first came out, and it's been on the radar. How has it held up for those that have owned one for awhile.

-Does anyone use the Jamil whirlpool cooling method? I've been doing it for several years, and am a believer. How's it work in this system? How are most of you chilling?

Thanks!
 
I agree with Getafix; If you're only gonna brew 5g batches, go with the 20L.

-It has a smaller footprint and is easier to handle (anyone can lift the malt pipe with one hand)
-It is less expensive
-It needs less power. I haven't got around to fully understand US electrics and what kinds of outlets people usually have in their homes but here in Norway the 20L can run off a very common 10A outlet while the 50L will need a 16A which is usually only installed where needed.
-It can brew quite big beers and with some DME as big as you want.
I'm sipping an IPA right now that was 1.072 without doing any double mashing or adding DME

Awesome feedback guys, thank you so much. You have helped me make the decision of going with the 20L system, and judging by the amount of positive post on here, I don't think I will have any issues.
Now to sell my damn ATV so I have the money to purchase one of these and become one of the elite braumeister club members.

Thanks again!
-Jay
 
bach said:
Hi again,

I have tried 0.75", but it does not fit. It is not NPT/FPT.
The thread is finer than US threading. Also, there is no pipe taper.
I am a little lost - the OD is either exactly 1" or 26mm, the thread is slighly less than 2mm - this is not making sense, because the metric 2mm threading is usually on M27, on smaller ones the thread is 1.5mm

I emailed Ralph, he is usually very helpful.

Maybe you have a different fitting on yours.

These have worked for myself and other forum members:

http://www.swagelok.com/search/find...N-8&item=e254464f-20f7-457f-a9a9-c8602af7276e

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LSSLXG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The amazon one would require a 1/2" nipple to connect to a female ball valve.
 
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Thanks for Swagelok website.

Ralph from Speidel BM emailed me that the Tap for 20L unit has G 3/4" cylindrical(=non tapered) thread.
G 3/4" is also called BSP(british standard pipe) and on couple of websites,
I found that BSP is uquivalent to ISO.

The 20L unit has cylindrical - ie parallel/non tapered 3/4" thread.
So it looks like I need to pick BSPP(parallel) or ISO RS(nontapered) for the BM side.
 
Did I mention that this thing is consistent?

In december I brewed an APA that turned out to be very good so yesterday I brewed the same beer again. Same recipe, volumes, mash schedule and all that.
And the efficiency and final volumes were..... Exactly the same!

Here's the recipe. SNPA clone hop schedule but with pils, munich and just a little bit of crystal.

---------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------
Type: All Grain
Date: 14.02.2012
Batch Size: 22,00 L
Boil Size: 29,06 L
Boil Time: 90 min Equipment: Speidel - 20l
Brewhouse Efficiency: 80,00

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
3,40 kg Bohemian Pilsner (Weyermann) (1,7 SRM) Grain 73,91 %
1,00 kg Munich I (Weyermann) (7,1 SRM) Grain 21,74 %
0,20 kg Crystal Malt (Muntons) (76,1 SRM) Grain 4,35 %
15,00 gm Magnum [13,00 %] (60 min) Hops 21,6 IBU
25,00 gm Perle [5,90 %] (20 min) Hops 9,9 IBU
40,00 gm Cascade [5,40 %] (7 min) Hops 6,4 IBU
40,00 gm Cascade [5,40 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1,00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15,0 min) Misc
1,00 gm White Labs Yeast Nutrient (Boil 10,0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs American Ale (Fermentis #US-05) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1,053 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1,050 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1,010 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5,54 %
Bitterness: 37,9 IBU Calories: 468 cal/l
Est Color: 7,6 SRM Color: Color


Mash Profile

Mash Name: Speidel - Tysk 1 Total Grain Weight: 4,60 kg
Sparge Water: 8,67 L Grain Temperature: 22,2 C
Sparge Temperature: 78,0 C TunTemperature: -17,8 C
Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE Mash PH: 5,4 PH

Speidel - Tysk 1 Step Time Name Description Step Temp
0 min Innmesk Add 25,00 L of water at 62,6 C 60,0 C
45 min Forsukring Heat to 64,0 C over 4 min 64,0 C
20 min Forsukring Heat to 72,0 C over 8 min 72,0 C
20 min Utmesk Heat to 78,0 C over 6 min 78,0 C
 
First, I'd like to say that the full read took me a few days but was very informative. I'm strongly weighing the odds of going with a BM over a Sabco Brew-Magic, for several reasons. I was hoping that by this time, they would have a U.S. powered version.

Also, I'm working with a brewing space that is roughly 9'8" by 5'6" and 7' tall. I would like to get the 50L version but am concerned with being able to lift properly without breaking my already not-so-great back. Has anyone explored a hydraulic way to lift the basket, just an idea my wife was going over.

Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for all of the input and I'd like to get a feeling with the durability, meaning ... from owners, how long do you figure that this system will last for you. If I put this money in, I'd like to think I could get 10 years out of it, considering the problems that have been addressed with good customer service. I don't think that's too much to ask for $3,000.

Input?

Russ
 
First, I'd like to say that the full read took me a few days but was very informative. I'm strongly weighing the odds of going with a BM over a Sabco Brew-Magic, for several reasons. I was hoping that by this time, they would have a U.S. powered version.

<snip>

When you say "-a U.S. powered version." I assume you're just talking about plugs. The Braumeister will work just the same on the 240VAC here as it does on a standard circuit in Europe. Easy as pie to replace the plug, although since I would have to install a new receptacle anyhow to brew in my space of choice, I'd just go that route (buying a receptacle that accommodates the plug that comes on the BM- they can be purchased here).
 
Yes, that's more of what I meant. Basically, I was hoping that by this point in time, Spiedel would offer a U.S. plug model, so that after I spend $3,000 the first thing I wouldn't have to do out of the box, is cut off the plug.;)

And as far as just getting the other type of recepticle installed, yes I had considered that option as well.

Russ
 
Question pointed at Yambor, did you ever get your 20L and if so, what are your feelings on downsizing from the 50L to the 20L?

My gut says to go with the 50L, even though I usually brew 5 gal. batches, because it gives me the availability of making high gravity beers, which I do quite often.

Am I looking at this wrong?

Russ
 
Just ordered my 20L braumeister! Cant wait for it to get here. Ordered from morebeer, how long does it normally take for it to come in?
 
Doesn't the 20L only have one pump? The 50L has two pumps and may have a stronger heating element as well. The reason I believe the 50L has a stronger heating element is because there has been a post about the need for stronger circuit barker for the 50L, as well as the need to heat a larger volume of liquid. Would a 20L user please confirm my suspicions?
 
The Aussie fella posted some nice pictures, some kind of a pulley winch if I remember correctly.

I remember that one, and it is what got me thinking. I don't really have the room for a winch setup, but hydraulics would work similarly in a smaller area. Just thinking out loud here.

I would like to hear from one of the original buyers from last year, on their opinions after having the systems for almost a year.
~r~
 
The 50L has two pumps and may have a stronger heating element as well. The reason I believe the 50L has a stronger heating element is because there has been a post about the need for stronger circuit barker for the 50L, as well as the need to heat a larger volume of liquid. Would a 20L user please confirm my suspicions?

The 50L does have a stronger heating element - it is actually 2 of the 20L elements. If not, I dont think it would have the ability to boil, as the 20L I have seen only had a gentle boil.
 
20L unit can be used for high gravity brewing just as same as 50L, just the scaling is different. Exactly the same procedure: mash 2 times.
 
Since you've had yours for awhile DeGarre, what do you think of it's build quality? In other words, do you think that under general use, it will last you another 5 years?

~r~
 
Since you've had yours for awhile DeGarre, what do you think of it's build quality? In other words, do you think that under general use, it will last you another 5 years?

~r~

14 brews and it's like brand new. I clean it very well after each use, open the pump, dry it, clean the element (top tip:run the pump with some vinegar in the water, works for my kettle and works for BM too).

I can't see any reason why it wouldn't give me 4-5 years of service. If something breaks I'd guess it would be the pump or control box, but those could be replaced.

The build quality is very solid. Unfortunately the legs have a quite sharp metal edge which could be smoother for sure, I've cut myself couple of times lifting and turning it around.
 
Question pointed at Yambor, did you ever get your 20L and if so, what are your feelings on downsizing from the 50L to the 20L?

My gut says to go with the 50L, even though I usually brew 5 gal. batches, because it gives me the availability of making high gravity beers, which I do quite often.

Am I looking at this wrong?

Russ

I have not purchased the 20L yet. Will probably do so once summer hits here as it is very hot running the burner. Brewing with the BM inside the garage during the summer months was a dream. No increase in ambient temps.
 
I have not purchased the 20L yet. Will probably do so once summer hits here as it is very hot running the burner. Brewing with the BM inside the garage during the summer months was a dream. No increase in ambient temps.

Ok, thanks, I was just wondering if you sold your larger one and decided against buying another.


~r~
 
So, I noticed in my new house the washer and dryer are plugged into a normal 3 prong plug and not the typical dryer plug.

I was thinking, it is possible or has anyone done this....used a european to US plug adapter and just plug it in to a regular outlet.

I am assuming since the drying is plugged into the socket it is a 220 volt outlet.

suggestions?
 
Hard to be sure what's going on here without pix. If someone's got 240VAC wired into a normal 120VAC outlet, that is a huge no-no, and I've never even heard of anyone doing such a thing. Any electric dryer I've ever seen has a standard 240VAC / 30A plug on it. Are you sure you don't have a gas dryer? A gas dryer has gas to do the heating and plugs int 120VAC for power to turn the drum.
 
I've been using cubes (NC) as a means to 'cool' wort from my BM previously. Now with an immersion chiller in my hot little hands I'm thinking about how this would go. I understand that moving wort will allow cooling to happen alot quicker than stagnant wort sitting around the copper coils. With this in mind, is there a foreseeable problem in running the pumps while cooling, say once the wort has reached 80c? Apart from the obvious mixed up trub, which could settle in time, do any seasoned BM owners who chill see a problem with this?


Essentially it will be a whirpool chiller, minus the whirlpool motion. It would be pumping wort, trub, break material and all. So my question is... Does that present a problem with the quality of the wort or am I being overly uptight about trub and break material?
 
G'day bullsneck - did you ask this recently at AHB? Answer to your question - don't have the foggiest....
 
bullsneck said:
I've been using cubes (NC) as a means to 'cool' wort from my BM previously. Now with an immersion chiller in my hot little hands I'm thinking about how this would go. I understand that moving wort will allow cooling to happen alot quicker than stagnant wort sitting around the copper coils. With this in mind, is there a foreseeable problem in running the pumps while cooling, say once the wort has reached 80c? Apart from the obvious mixed up trub, which could settle in time, do any seasoned BM owners who chill see a problem with this?

Essentially it will be a whirpool chiller, minus the whirlpool motion. It would be pumping wort, trub, break material and all. So my question is... Does that present a problem with the quality of the wort or am I being overly uptight about trub and break material?

I ran mine when cooling. Another option is to grab the chiller and move it around or up and down slightly to break stratification (stagnation). It doesn't take much and it will cool the wort much faster. I always have a towel laying over mine so I'm protected from the hot side outlet of the chiller, you should do the same or wear gloves as you can get burned when chilling first begins.
 
Is your dryer a gas dryer? If so it will only plug into a standard 120v 3-prong line. I am assuming this is your situation, as electric dryers do not come with that type of plug. My $0.02

:mug:

So, I noticed in my new house the washer and dryer are plugged into a normal 3 prong plug and not the typical dryer plug.

I was thinking, it is possible or has anyone done this....used a european to US plug adapter and just plug it in to a regular outlet.

I am assuming since the drying is plugged into the socket it is a 220 volt outlet.

suggestions?
 
Braumeister Experience so far...

I posted a while back asking for the "best" source of the braumeister in the US. Given the number of positive forum posts I read in this thread (and the lack of any direct response :p) I went with a 50L from Thorsten at MoreBeer4U due to the slightly lower price and to avoid the large (9+%) tax hit of living in the same state as MoreBeer! (confusing naming between the two) and the fact that there was a shipping special running. Ended up saving a couple hundred bucks total.

For those wondering about delivery lead times, the bulk of the time was spent waiting for the unit to ship, however once it left Germany it took only 4 days to arrive in SF, CA! Thought for sure it was gonna take much longer! This may not have been a good thing. The box the unit came in took a serious beating on the way here. I unpacked the unit in front of the FedEx driver and noted the unit itself had what appeared to be some cosmetic damage to one of the legs. Slight deformation along the plane of the leg and a bit of an impact dent on the "foot edge." No big deal, or so I thought. The box the accessories I ordered came in was pretty much what you would expect.

Once I got it into the house I built a new power cable. I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. I am however comfortable working with common household wiring/current. For those of you interested the 50L Braumeister unit (and maybe the 20L model, someone will need to confirm) has a male (inlet) IEC 60320 C19/20 type coupler.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#C19.2FC20_coupler

I used a Tripp Lite 6 foot 12awg server power cord (this is probably overkill gauge in this case considering the thin cord included with the unit) rated 250v/20a that had the female (no prongs) c19/20 coupler on one end. I cut the other end (a heavy duty twist lock 3 blade) off, stripped the outer insulation down and wired the 3 connections within to a Leviton screw-it-together-yourself NEMA 10-50P type 3 blade range plug to match the electrical in my brewcave. It was a no brainer and the whole thing cost less than 40 bucks and 15 minutes. I chose these primarily due to the amazon super saver shipping (free) option in combination and no sales tax. You could probably hit Home Depot or Lowes or wherever and get similar stuff locally.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KG3WKY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9S9I6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Of course, if you're not sure what your electrical situation is at your home/brew spot and/or not comfortable with wiring and such definitely get an electrician out to at least survey what you have and give you some options. Knowing the type of connector for the BM might help some of you get yourself situated electrically in advance of delivery, or can tell your electrician what he has to work with on the BM side of the wiring equation. I'll post pics of the build when I can find my cable to get the pics off the camera.

After finishing that up I immediately ran a "dry" (no malt) test run in my kitchen (the GF was ECSTATIC about this) with the 50, filling it up with cold tap water and running through basic the program (also testing the load with a clamp amp meter). Ran like a dream, hitting the 38C mash in temp in about 8 minutes! My kitchen was around 65F at the time, not sure what the ambient water temp is, but it's at least 10 degrees lower than that.. I had the insulating jacket and lid on. That was crazy fast I said to myself, and checked with a thermometer. It was dead on at 38C according to my digital probe, so I hit the button to continue with the mashing schedule and watched the malt pipe water level rise...and then stop rising about 2 inches from the top of the pipe. I then noticed a lot of water turbulence outside of the pipe...right over the damaged leg. Water was jetting out the side of the pipe where it met the bottom of the pot. I messed around for a while, trying to center the pipe, pulling it out and re-seating the rubber gasket, then the pipe itself back inside...no dice. It was at that point I stuck my hand down there (with the unit plugged in like a dumba$$) and noticed that the damaged leg "wing supports" had punched into the metal bottom of the pot to make two deep dents under the outer heating element (one almost touches the element) and the resulting slopes interfere exactly along the curve where the malt pipe needs to rest. It must have taken a serious blow right under the leg to make it produce that much denting.

In short, there was no way to make it work as it was. The malt pipe simply will not form a seal with the pot.

I contacted Thorsten and he got in touch with Speidel immediately, as it stands now I'm awaiting a new 50L to be shipped out to me. :-(

Don't let that deter you though, Thorsten has been great to work with and I'm convinced the BM is a great product. Now if we can only get Speidel to ship them in crates! :)

Seriously, I suspect the boxing is fine for the most part, judging by the box something unusual happened to it on the way here.

Anyway, cheers and happy brewing! :mug:
 
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Getting close to the amount I need to order one of these, only thing I am not sure about is how much the shipping is. Can a few of you shed some light on how much the shipping charge is on these bad boys? (20L)

-Jay
 
Munch671 said:
Getting close to the amount I need to order one of these, only thing I am not sure about is how much the shipping is. Can a few of you shed some light on how much the shipping charge is on these bad boys? (20L)

-Jay

Free shipping from morebeer.com
 
Yes it is SS9007 12-8

The BM side of the nipple is the 3/4" BSPP/ISO (british standard pipe parallel) and the ball valve side is the 1/2" NPT

My reason was to eliminate any parts, which would be restricting the
flow, since I recirculate and whirlpool.
It works great.

It is pricey - I paid $65 at local distributor
 
So now that my 20l will be here soon I am pondering the logistics of brewing in my apartment. I will need to vent the steam somehow from the boil off. I have a dryer vent that goes through the wall about 15 feet to the outside from the brew room and I also have a small basement slider window on the other side of the room away from the 220 line.

My questions are

A. If I vent through the dryer vent will the condensation build up into some sort of sticky mess inside of it.
B. if i am going to vent to the other window I will need an extension cord to make it over there. What should I use to extend the reach of the current electric cord? A welding cord? If I had a Lon enough cord I could potentially brew outside on really nice days.
 
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