CPVC SCH 80 for RIMS Tube

Has anyone tried using SCH 80 CPVC for a RIMS tube? I have seen YouTube videos of people using PVC for their plumbing so I figured if normal white PVC works why wouldn't SCH 80.

I know SCH 80 says it is temp rated to 140 F but that is based on a PSI threshold. Since this would be a low pressure setup could it work at 170F without distorting from the heat?

According to this spec sheet CPVC from this particular company has a temp rating of 200F, well within the limits of a RIMS setup.

Since most of the plumbing is hidden anyway, you're not really losing any BLING factor. CPVC also has better thermal characteristics and is NSF approved.

Thoughts anyone?

This was my original thought as well, to make the tube from 2" sch80 cpvc, but after weighing the options I decided to spend the $25 extra dollars and build it from Stainless.
The most important factor to me was in the event of a stuck mash the liquid in the tube would exceed boiling almost instantly, in which case I would not only be dumping out a batch of beer, but also pitching the tube in the garage as IMHO I doubt it would survive the temperature and the potential element dry fire.

Wouldn't a PID prevent that by turning off when the temp in the tube went above the set Mash temp? I priced Stainless and it came out to $177 for a 2" tube versus $70 for SCH80 CPvC.

bellinmi88 said:

Wouldn't a PID prevent that by turning off when the temp in the tube went above the set Mash temp?

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Someone correct me if I am wrong, A PID would shut off when above the mash temp, but that reaction is delayed slightly by the reaction time of the temp sensor/thermocouple, and the reaction time of sensor also depends upon the placement of the sensor in relation to the heating element.

bellinmi88 said:

I priced Stainless and it came out to $177 for a 2" tube versus $70 for SCH80 CPvC.

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OUCH! My tube consists of a 2x6 nipple, 2 2" tees, 3 1/2" x 2" reducing bushings, and 1 1-1/2" x 2" red. bushing, all of that plus 2 1/2 close nipples and 2 1/2 couplings cost me $87 CAD, so for me it was an easy decision.

Where did you buy from...that is pretty much the same as I priced out. Was is 304/316 stainless? I priced it up at www.murrayequipment.com

eric_pwb said:

Someone correct me if I am wrong, A PID would shut off when above the mash temp, but that reaction is delayed slightly by the reaction time of the temp sensor/thermocouple, and the reaction time of sensor also depends upon the placement of the sensor in relation to the heating element..

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Also add in the fact that your wort would just be sitting in that tube with no flow at all. POOF!

Mine tube is all 316, I was lucky enough to find a local company to purchase from, here in Regina, SK. They are called TS&M supply. I don't think they normally sell to walk-ins, they usually supply oil field companies and the local refinery.

Coldies said:

Also add in the fact that your wort would just be sitting in that tube with no flow at all. POOF!

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This is why the PID won't shut off with no flow. The sensor is mounted a bit downstream from the tube so if there is no flow the hot wort never reaches to sensor to tell it the wort is getting to hot.

Ahhhh having a connection helps. I think you will find that most people are spending closer to $200 for a completed 2" SS RIMS tube. CPVC is safe up to 200F under zero pressure. I would think the sensor would shut down the element before it changed more then 40 degrees....otherwise what is the sense in using a PID to begin with.

mattd2 said:

This is why the PID won't shut off with no flow. The sensor is mounted a bit downstream from the tube so if there is no flow the hot wort never reaches to sensor to tell it the wort is getting to hot.

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The sensor would be mounted in the tube within the downstream flow, right in front of the bushing that takes it from 2" to 1/2".

For the record, I would prefer SS just exploring all options as this will be my first (and I am sure not my last) build. The first one does not have to be all nice and shinny.

bellinmi88 said:

The sensor would be mounted in the tube within the downstream flow, right in front of the bushing that takes it from 2" to 1/2".

For the record, I would prefer SS just exploring all options as this will be my first (and I am sure not my last) build. The first one does not have to be all nice and shinny.

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This is also my first build, and I was lucky enough to have a connection to get an awesome deal on SS, but after lots of research and thinking, I would have gone SS either way.

It has been said many times, only the rich can afford to buy cheap. IMHO I would rather build it once and spend my money and build my base equipment once, and spend my money later on upgrades like solenoid valves and sexy looking cart/stand than spend money on rebuilding what has prematurely worn out or failed. Just my $0.02. Not to say cpvc absolutely could not be used, like everything else it has its pros and cons. My second choice would be copper, for the sole reason that in the event of a dry fire/stuck mash you don't run the risk of a total melt down.

bellinmi88 said:

Ahhhh having a connection helps. I think you will find that most people are spending closer to $200 for a completed 2" SS RIMS tube.

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Don't forget to include the cost of primer and cement when working out which choice is best.

Yeah I am pretty much convinced. As it turns out my Internet searching skills are not as good as I thought they were....since posting this I have found some other online SS retailers by reading other threads and have reduced the cost down to about $120 using Tri clover!

In case you didn't see this thread...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/build-relatively-inexpensive-tri-clover-rims-tube-159639/

Your point about investing in core base components is a no brainer makes sense to build the Tube once and if I can do it with Tri clamps...all the better.

Thanks for the input!