Danby 10.2 (DCFM289WDD) Keezer Build Thread

This is my kickoff thread for my Danby 10.2 Keezer build. I purchased this from Buy.com because HD was out of stock online but those interested should be able to get it from them.

First a picture:


photo 1 by brewerJP, on Flickr

And one more:


photo 3 by brewerJP, on Flickr

A couple other pictures and other build related pictures will be posted here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/57569099@N06/sets/72157627180416588/

The interior dimensions are as follows:

Width: 42 1/2"
Height: 24 1/2"
Depth: 17 3/8"
Hump Width: 7 1/2"
Hump Height: 8 3/4"

The hump is oriented to the right side when facing the unit.

My kegs are due to arrive by the end of the week I believe - when they do I'll post some pictures with kegs set in. My hope it to be able to fit up to 8 on the floor.

The build will consist of a base with casters, a 6" collar with 3 Perlick 525SS taps, SS shanks, Johnson A419 controller and 10lb C02 tank. The keezer will dual as a kegerator and a cold water supply for my Brewhemoth immersion chiller.

More soon!

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This sounds like what I want to do. Some nice large casters on the bottom on a base so that it raises the height of the freezer to a useful level, and a 4-6" collar up top to house my taps. I was going to go with 3 perlicks and a single stout tap. I was thinking of buying a sheet of brushed stainless steel to cover the front of the freezer (should be under $50) but it seems with the thermostat up there, the front isn't flat unless it can easily be removed.

Do you mind posting up the exterior dimensions? I know you put them in your other post, but i'd like to see what you measure instead of what the manufacturer measured.

When are you getting your kegs?

The exterior dimensions are something close to:

49w x 25d x 31h... The depth includes (approx) the hinges on the lid. The height does not include the built in feet.

For reference: the existing leveling feet are M8 x 1.25 threaded. I just bought some Footmaster GD-40S leveling casters for my brewstand and now I'm thinking about doing the same for the chest freezer so I don't have to buy a base. The only drawback is I'll only net just over 3" of height but then it saves me the pain of having to build a platform.

It's kind of funny your talking about brushed stainless - I am probably going to cover the collar in aluminum flashing to give it a bit of a retro look but the overall freezer will just stay white.

My kegs I'm thinking will be here Friday. They just shipped today from Texas. Here's to hoping!

The interior height seems too short to fit kegs without a collar and have the lines hooked up.

It will not fit kegs without a collar - I'll have pictures tomorrow with kegs in.

Untitled by brewerJP, on Flickr


Untitled by brewerJP, on Flickr

So: confirmed 8 on the floor. As for height, the lid will close with kegs loaded but I imagine not with the QD connected. There's about a 1/2" of clearance right now.

A 10lb tank will not fit on the hump without a big collar, I imagine a 5lb might.

I decided to go the caster route so those should arrive next week sometime. I think 3 and change inches is going to be plenty of a lift without making it a pain to load and unload kegs.

Think that's it for now! I'm on vacation for a week so no updates until then.

Very awesome to hear! Do you think 4 kegs and 2 better bottles would fit? Or a better bottle on the hump with a shelf made to hold it?

What size better bottles? I have a couple here I can try for you.

jcaudill said:

What size better bottles? I have a couple here I can try for you.

Click to expand...

6.5 gallon. Thing is, I think I am going to be getting this freezer anyway now thanks to you..
It is fun now looking forward to everything I'll be able to put into it. Looks like I am going to have to get some more kegs soon

Ok quick update:


photo by brewerJP, on Flickr

I'll post some better picture later but I wanted to get something up at least.

So far what I've learned about this freezer:

1) DON'T try to attach casters to the existing front 2 threaded leveling feet. It will not work. Super flimsy. Build a platform! I used a simple 3/4" plywood sheet with 4 swiveling casters from Northern Tool. Net cost: 40 bucks. The back two legs are fixed casters already.

2) This freezer has rounded corners - all 4. Unless you're going to encase the entire freezer I'd be prepared to round the corners or do something decorative. As you can see - I rounded mine with a sander. I am planning on wrapping mine in some kind of metal at some point.

3) I used a 2x6 which fits the outer lip of the bottom nearly perfectly.

4) Perhaps my biggest piece of advice next to the casters: when you measure for the collar note that the back hinges are not horizontally flush between where it connects to the bottom and where it connects to the lid. There is an adjustment built into the hinge that pulls the top ~1/8" towards the rear. If you don't account for this, you'll have a new ~1/8" lip at the front of your freezer and your lid won't sit evenly. Trust me - I found out the hard way! If you do happen to encounter this, I took the hinge off the lid and built spacers out of 0.080" acrylic and put them between the lid and hinge. You'll need two on each to make the appropriate space.

As always - open to any questions! Once I figure out where to mount the taps I'll post some better pics up.

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I have been a bit lethargic in progress on this mainly because I'm waiting for the materials to finish the collar. They should arrive Friday! I did mount the taps at least temporarily to get an idea. One note on that: I decided a center position on the taps was desirable. I neglected however to consider the existing lid handle and how much it protrudes so it actually interferes with the tap handles. You could solve this by either extending the taps out a bit or removing the handle. I removed the handle for now and I'm either going to build a cover or some kind of new handle - I haven't decided just yet.

More soon!

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Just checked out the brewstand pics...outstanding! How much $ did that take? And how's it work?

erikhild59 said:

Just checked out the brewstand pics...outstanding! How much $ did that take? And how's it work?

Click to expand...

Are you referring to my brewstand?

Yes, I meant how do you like using it.(not how does it work)

Subscribed!
I'm thinking about getting the same freezer, and your keezer conversion looks great so far.

I love the idea of using aluminum flashing over the collar.
Sounds like it would look like one of those vintage Coleman camping coolers.

Sorry it took me a while to reply - hurricanes and such ;-)

I actually am going to go a different route. Similar idea, just a different execution. I'm keeping it a bit of a secret in case it doesn't go my way hah. I'll hopefully be able to work on it this week!

Awesome! I look forward to seeing more pics of your build.

I picked up one of these freezers over the weekend from someone who was selling it on Craigslist for $190.

They dropped it so one of the feet is bent and there's a big dent/warp in the front where the thermostat is, but it works and I figure I can add some molding along the bottom to hide the damage.

I started prep work on the collar yesterday. Hoping to be able to pick it up again a little later today. God willing this thing will get done!

Ahh - finally! A few updated pics (more are available here):


Untitled by brewerJP, on Flickr


Untitled by brewerJP, on Flickr


Untitled by brewerJP, on Flickr


Untitled by brewerJP, on Flickr

So you may be asking yourself - what am I looking at? Well if you recall my original plan was to wrap the collar in aluminum flashing. I abandoned that plan pretty quickly because I didn't want to have to deal with trimming the flashing which on a radius I think would have been a major PIA. Next I considered getting a custom cut of stainless that would have been the exact height of the collar and long enough to wrap around. But I could not find a gauge that was thin enough that would have been possible to easily work with - again the radius's cause a headache. So, after some quick searching I stumbled upon stainless steel paint - yes stainless steel paint and no not just a tinted paint to have the color of stainless. The composition of the paint is automotive grade resin + 100% stainless steel that has been broken down into particles. It's a very interesting paint and the typical application is appliances. The collar consists of 3 coats of Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 Primer, 5 coats of liquid stainless steel paint and 1 coat of top (clear) coat.

The overall look is kind of interesting I think - a retro industrial kind of look. I like it. It'll look better with taps! I get my stainless collars tomorrow so I'll mount the taps up and shoot another pic.

I LOVE the look!! Where did you pick up the stainless steel paint? I think i am going to have to go along that route when I finally pick up a freezer this fall. How expensive was it? I found some thinner (dont remember the gauge, but it got very low) brushed aluminum i was thinking of using, but like you said I think the curves are going to be difficult. Also, looking at your wood skills, i think you have more than I do and if you passed it up, i think I may have to as well. If I get this freezer and start building the collar, expect a lot of messages from me!!!! :rockin:

Thanks! Supposedly as the paint cures the metal is supposed to come forward - don't ask me how this works Applying to wood I think lessens the effect a bit because you aren't working with an entirely even surface like an appliance would be. I was also working with a lower grade of wood because the original plan was metal over it so the quality didn't matter as much. A better grade of wood would have made a big difference. In the end - I was getting tired of working on it so I just threw in the towel!

Trust me - my wood working skills are far from superior. There are some imperfections I chose to leave out of the camera shots ;-) That said - the neighbor didn't know it was wood after I had primed it so I guess there's something to be said about that!

The stainless paint comes from http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com/ (I know - shocker!) I'd say you need a quart of the stainless paint, but a pint of top coat is more than sufficient. I got their little save-a-trip kit too because it's a good deal. And I got a can of the stainless spray paint too in case I need to do some kind of accent piece or something.

I think it's going to look sweet with the taps mounted - very excited to see that today. I have to do something where I removed the handle from the lid still.

Glad to help any way I can!

Hey, looks great! I can't wait to see it finished and hooked up!

The metal paint did a great job of hiding the screw holes and joinery. It looks like a totally solid piece now. Really cool.

I'm planning on something very similar, though I'll probably use a dark stain on the wood, and I need to build some kind of molding around the base of the freezer since mine has a huge dent in it.

Thanks! Ya between the DAP Plastic Wood I used and the paint it covered up most of it decently well. I could have done a bit better job but I'm not at all disappointed.

One thing I'll say in hind sight is if you're going to paint or stain do it while the collar is still off! When it's attached it becomes a major PIA. Of course I didn't plan on painting it at first so I didn't think twice about it. Silly me!

Here's a pic with the taps:


photo 1 by brewerJP, on Flickr

I'm diggin' it now!

So you used 2x6s for the collar? It looks like you did a butt joint. Is that correct?

I'm debating between this 10.2 and 8.7. I am sorely lacking in woodworking skills. I'm not putting taps in mine, but want to do a collar to run CO2 in there and so that ball locks with disconnects will fit.

Even without taps you'll want the collar to give you some room for the plumbing on to of the kegs.

Yes - 2x6 and yep a butt joint with 3 screws at each joint. You don't need much in the way of woodworking skills to build the collar except for the radius corners. Those aren't required but it would look strange without them unless you did some kind of decorative corners.

What kind of sander did you use for the radius corners?

Wow! Nice work....the radius corners on the collar along with the stainless steel paint looks fantastic! Where would one find the paint that you used. I apologize if you already answered that question earlier in your thread.

Hoppopotomus said:

Wow! Nice work....the radius corners on the collar along with the stainless steel paint looks fantastic! Where would one find the paint that you used. I apologize if you already answered that question earlier in your thread.

Click to expand...

Thank you very much! I love the look - very retro cooler-esque the more I stare at it! Now I should actually make the darn thing work!

The paint is from http://www.liquidstainlesssteel.com. My best advice if anyone decides to use it is be very patient with it and apply many thin coats. Don't try to put too much on at once or you'll end up with a royal mess on your hands. This is 5 coats BTW.

BrewThruYou said:

What kind of sander did you use for the radius corners?

Click to expand...

The radiuses were done with a table belt sander and then finish work with a palm sander. Basically:

1) Butt join the boards - drill and temporarily screw together.
2) Draw the radiuses on top for each corner.
3) Unscrew and with the belt sander work each board separately until you have the radius.
4) Sand any high spots with a palm sander.
5) Screw back together.
6) Fill holes - I used DAP Plastic Wood. Layer it on above the holes - let it harden then sand down smooth. Also fill the cracks at the butt joints the same way and sand.

Then you can finish it however you like!

Your work looks amazing so far! I dont think many people on the forum have though about using the SS paint before.

2 quick questions about the keezer though.

I saw your picture with the 8 kegs fitting on the floor. Is it a snug fit? How much play is there between them? Was wondering if it would be possibly to fit in a commercial 5gal get in there if needbe, which is slightly thicker than a corney.

Also, are you going to use a temp controller, or is the built in thermostat enough to keep the beer above freezing? Do you know what the max temp is that you can set the freezer to?

Thanks, again, great work!

Martin

Thank you! That is what I'm all about - trying out some new things.

8 corny kegs on the floor is a fairly snug fit. I have a commercial 5 gallon keg in the garage I will try out for you and let you know.

I am going to use a Johnson A419 to control the freezer. I don't really have a particular reason for this - it's just the way I originally planned it out. I am not sure what the max temp is but I'll see if it's in the manual and let you know.

Hahaha, well way to go above and beyond!! I was asking out of curiosity. You dont have to trouble yourself with experiments on my part, but if its no trouble it would certainly be useful for others wanting to follow in your footsteps.

Brewing folk are the best kind of folk I always say.

Martin

jcaudill said:

The radiuses were done with a table belt sander and then finish work with a palm sander. Basically:

1) Butt join the boards - drill and temporarily screw together.
2) Draw the radiuses on top for each corner.
3) Unscrew and with the belt sander work each board separately until you have the radius.
4) Sand any high spots with a palm sander.
5) Screw back together.
6) Fill holes - I used DAP Plastic Wood. Layer it on above the holes - let it harden then sand down smooth. Also fill the cracks at the butt joints the same way and sand.

Then you can finish it however you like!

Click to expand...

Wow, thanks for the info!
I haven't had a chance to work on my keezer yet, but this will be really helpful for when I go to do the collar.

I'm still debating if I want to sand the corners to match the round edges of the wood the way you did, or if I want to leave it squared off so I can use apple or cherry plywood with the corners angled to 45 degrees or something.

The size of the Danby 10.2 is perfect, but the rounded corners are a challenge.


EDIT: I got a Johnson temp controller from NB and it works great with the Danby. Definitely a good choice, and much more accurate than the cheaper analog temp controllers.

I'm not a woodworker by any means, but do they make quarter round that size? or even ripping down a dowel to the correct size? though it looks like youd need a 2" dowel!

D_Nyholm said:

I'm not a woodworker by any means, but do they make quarter round that size? or even ripping down a dowel to the correct size? though it looks like youd need a 2" dowel!

Click to expand...

Crap sorry never saw the question here - did you figure it out? The quarter round would all depend on the thickness of the wood you use. But this is making an assumption the Danby has a perfectly radiused corner and I am not too sure it does.

So I'm finally getting ready to finish this stupid project up - I had to take some time and focus on life priorities for a bit.

All I have left is to drill the hole for the probe, the CO2 tubing (keeping the bottle outside the freezer) and probably the DC fan power cable. Anyone have any suggestions or recommendations on placement or just do it?!

Wow - talk about the longest dragged-out Keezer build project ever! But, I have finally gotten this thing working!


Photo by brewerJP, on Flickr


Photo by brewerJP, on Flickr

I obviously still have to hookup a few hoses and maybe actually put some beer in the kegs but at least the Keezer is working! I have an A419 hooked up to it and it seems to be doing pretty well. I'll probably need to make some adjustments but the initial tests seem to be pretty good. Oddly - the air at the upper part of the freezer seems to be colder than the air at the bottom! I guess the fan is working.