Anyone used the eBay Amp meters?

I want to install ammeters in my control panel for the main, and each heating element, so I can control the system if I'm under a power restriction. It'll draw a full 50 amps if I let both 5500 watt elements go to 100%.

Has anyone looked at or used these?
They are certainly cheap enough, but I've never used an inline shunt before. It makes me a little nervous on a 50 amp circuit.

I'd prefer meters with choke coils to measure current, but I haven't found any yet...

I have just installed but not used yet, a pair of 30 amp 240 V Shurite analog ammeters in my control panel. As far as I can tell, they get directly wired in line with the load. I do want to double check that with the manufacturer before I fire up the system. The website for the manufacturer is - http://www.primetechnology.com/PartsDetails.aspx?PartsId=77&Parentid=28&ParentType=C and the ones I have are 8505z. I got them from Newark electronics, about $24 each. I am using one for HLT and one for BK.

I'll let you know what Shurite says about connecting them.

AiredAle said:

I have just installed but not used yet, a pair of 30 amp 240 V Shurite analog ammeters in my control panel. As far as I can tell, they get directly wired in line with the load. I do want to double check that with the manufacturer before I fire up the system. The website for the manufacturer is - http://www.primetechnology.com/PartsDetails.aspx?PartsId=77&Parentid=28&ParentType=C and the ones I have are 8505z. I got them from Newark electronics, about $24 each. I am using one for HLT and one for BK.

I'll let you know what Shurite says about connecting them.

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Wow - Looks like they install inline with the load. I find it hard to believe a little plastic meter would have the lugs to take that much current!
It will be interesting to see what they say.

I think they are for 5 volt circuits - not 220.

I have this 4 sale, its a custom made amp meter, I do not have or know what software it needs, 100.00 of components I would sell for 40.00 shipped

Henrythe9th said:

I have this 4 sale, its a custom made amp meter, I do not have or know what software it needs, 100.00 of components I would sell for 40.00 shipped

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Thanks, but I'm looking for something a little more turn-key, and I need 3 of them. I'd also like the ammeters and volt meter to match.

SweetSounds said:

Thanks, but I'm looking for something a little more turn-key, and I need 3 of them. I'd also like the ammeters and volt meter to match.

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I know Kal used ebay Amp and Volt meters... be careful, I think he blew one up because they required isolated power supplies (couldn't use 1 power supply to run both meters). May not be the same place or meters, but beware.

He has a thread here... something like. "Show Us Your Control Panel" and you can see the meters in it.

Henrythe9th said:

I have this 4 sale, its a custom made amp meter, I do not have or know what software it needs, 100.00 of components I would sell for 40.00 shipped

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Looks like current coils to me for a signal to the meter.

SweetSounds said:

Wow - Looks like they install inline with the load. I find it hard to believe a little plastic meter would have the lugs to take that much current!
It will be interesting to see what they say.

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Those plastic el cheapo meters must get a signal from a shunt as there is no way one would run high amperage thru them, this is common sense in the electrical trade.

BrewBeemer said:

Those plastic el cheapo meters must get a signal from a shunt

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Note that the title of the ebay listing is:

3 1/2 Blue LED Digital AMP Panel Meter + Shunt AC 200A

and the listing shows a picture of the shunt and how to wire it up.

Walker said:

Note that the title of the ebay listing is:

3 1/2 Blue LED Digital AMP Panel Meter + Shunt AC 200A

and the listing shows a picture of the shunt and how to wire it up.

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Walker, my bad I didn't go to the OP.
We used current coil controlled meters all the time in the trade, just needed to keep the meters and coils matched if salvaged from a demo contol job. Most were high amperage units reading 3 phase mixing motors at sewage treatment plants.
I would use that shunt meter long before using induction current coils, the OP one sure looks sweet for the price. I have no fears purchasing and using them, same applies up to the 200 amp capacity of this meter. I wonder if you can get three shuts and use a rotary switch to one meter, that would be great or deal with a US company as this overseas thing would sell only one shunt per meter I bet.

BrewBeemer said:

I would use that shunt meter long before using induction current coils, the OP one sure looks sweet for the price.

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Explain? I've been thinking shunts are passing my 50 amps of current through a strip of metal with some really low voltage stuff connected to it. It just makes me nervous. I like the coils, because there is no electrical contact at all. (Well, magnetically induced electrical current, but you know what I mean )

BrewBeemer said:

I have no fears purchasing and using them, same applies up to the 200 amp capacity of this meter. I wonder if you can get three shuts and use a rotary switch to one meter, that would be great or deal with a US company as this overseas thing would sell only one shunt per meter I bet.

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That might be a good option - I'll think about the switch. But I have to admit I like the bling factor of 3 big-assed ammeters and a volt meter on the panel all shiney and blue

BTW, they can be had from US sellers... Just not the one I linked to. I'll get them from the guy in the US, because I'm never ordering from China again! Bastards still haven't sent me my SSRs I ordered 5 weeks ago

SweetSounds said:

Explain? I've been thinking shunts are passing my 50 amps of current through a strip of metal with some really low voltage stuff connected to it. It just makes me nervous. I like the coils, because there is no electrical contact at all.

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It's comparing the differential across the shunt which is very little, your thinking to ground which is rather high in voltage and current.
Bling factor yes if you have the room for gauges.
I hear ya on the China shipping and when it arrives, i'll keep it in the US
to support as well if any problems come up in shipping. Just me.

Regarding the analog Shurite ammeters I posted about the other day, I just talked to the Shurite folks, and confirmed that the meters I bought (Shurite 8505z) are rated for 240 V and that they wire directly into the circuit with no shunt or coil needed. The lugs on the back of the meter are pretty substantial by the way.

BrewBeemer said:

It's comparing the differential across the shunt which is very little, your thinking to ground which is rather high in voltage and current.
Bling factor yes if you have the room for gauges.
I hear ya on the China shipping and when it arrives, i'll keep it in the US
to support as well if any problems come up in shipping. Just me.

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Thanks! That makes me feel better - I just haven't used a shunt like that before, and I guess I wanted to feel a little bit better about it.
Plenty of room for more meters! I've got (2) 14 x 16 panels to play with

Here's a shot of my nearly completed control panel, with the ammeters at the top, so you can see what they look like installed.

AiredAle said:

Here's a shot of my nearly completed control panel, with the ammeters at the top, so you can see what they look like installed.

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Looks good!
I like the wood and analog vibe

Dang Arron you have one good looking panel there, it needs all three shunts and meters.

AiredAle said:

Here's a shot of my nearly completed control panel, with the ammeters at the top, so you can see what they look like installed.

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I knocked a 1/2 point off as the wood trim didn't have mitered corners LOL!
Looks sharp with analog gives it a old school look.

Hey! I cut finger joints on the box, so back off BrewBeemer! We don't need no stinking mitered joints on this box.

Thanks bro I hear ya LOL, I was thinking mitered joints with biscuits. How do you add fingers running with the grain, i've never seen this done before? Mortise and tenon yes.

I used 1/2 baltic birch plywood for the box, and built a jig for my table saw to cut 1/2 fingers 9/16 deep. I used a dado setup in the saw. Works a treat, but you have to get pretty precise with the width of the finger and the pocket so the dimensions don't march away on you.

Once glued and assembled, you can route the extra length off the fingers and sand and finish, and it looks pretty cool, see below -

I guess I should identify the stuff in the pic. Round plug is 3 prong 240 for eHLT power cord, regular 120 plugs are for eHLT transfer pump and a spare, yellow receptical is for K type thermocouple for eHLT and RCA jack for float level switch in eHLT. Other end of box is similar, but for the BK.

Your first photo looked like you used a half lap joint from the top hence my reply.
I got lucky as on Craig's list was a free Frame Square from a picture frame art studio as they purchased three new ones. I was there first and snagged this fully loaded saw with all accessories. They now list at $3,100.
I was having a ball with it but going thru wood rather rapidly playing with it. This model number 1000.

http://www.frame-square.com/page7.html.

Nice score. One of those tools that would be great to have if I had the room. My woodshop is already over-full but mostly stuff that hasn't been put in proper storage yet. The bane of my life, not having the space to do what I want to do. Despite having a 28' X 40' barn with two rooms, one for motorcycle repair and one for woodworking, a 8' X 20 leanto shed and a loft. Go figure.

I hear ya, I have only 9 bikes in the collection with 3 more before I die.
I would kill for your space i'm packed to the gills being a "pack rat".
With the Birdgeport mill, Tig and Mig in the shop. Add to this Walker Turner
jointer, bandsaw, frame Square a freebie I love, two 10" tablesaws 3 radial arm saws, 2 disc / belt Walker Turner industrial grade sanders I can't help myself collecting old quality tools. Routers all Porter Cable a herd of them with carbide cutters but the damn back failed me what a pisser. I shall rise again i'm a tool addict, not counting the jewelers lathe and metal lathe. A above average nut case by far LOL!

AiredAle said:

I used 1/2 baltic birch plywood for the box, and built a jig for my table saw to cut 1/2 fingers 9/16 deep. I used a dado setup in the saw. Works a treat, but you have to get pretty precise with the width of the finger and the pocket so the dimensions don't march away on you.

Once glued and assembled, you can route the extra length off the fingers and sand and finish, and it looks pretty cool, see below -

I guess I should identify the stuff in the pic. Round plug is 3 prong 240 for eHLT power cord, regular 120 plugs are for eHLT transfer pump and a spare, yellow receptical is for K type thermocouple for eHLT and RCA jack for float level switch in eHLT. Other end of box is similar, but for the BK.

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That thing is a work of art!
Makes my spray painted NEMA enclosure like like a kindergarten project!

Thanks SweetSounds, but handsome is as handsome does, and I haven't got it completed yet, so I'm withholding final judgement. I'll start a build thread soon as I at a point where I could take some interesting pictures.

BB,

We share the same disease, sounds like you have a more advanced case though. I have 2 Commandos in pieces, and three mid seventies Honda dirt bikes in could almost be running condition if I got off my ass and did something to them. A 50s DeWalt radial arm saw, an 80s 5 horse Unisaw with Biesmeyer fence, an 80s 6" Delta jointer, 13" Delta planer, 50s Delta scroll saw, lots of modern handheld DeWalt power tools and two roll around tool boxes full of metric, whitworth and US tools. And no time to do it all...

I'm looking for a good old floor model drill press, a O/A gas welding outfit, and then maybe a TIG. I want to get better at my gas welding for some reason - maybe because it's an old technique?

Two floor model drill presses, 1/2" & 3/4" plus an old Atlas bench 1/2" all 40's to late 50's era. A cast iron base shaper and router table, sold a 85 HP Sticker 12 years ago for $15K, paid $2,500 from a early 1900's lumber yard 2 blocks from home, this too big to own and too good to let go but has a good home now. I'll take your Bessy fence as I have two 10" cast iron table saws plus I want your planer LOL! A 6" Walker Turner jointer paid $85 for it because it had a 3 phase 1 hp motor. I have many spare motors being a electrician. On Norton's I got rid of the 72 Combat they were maxed out and broke vs 850's with more torque. Have three 850 Norton's that last longer being lazy. Talking 432K on the 73 Roadster my "beater bike". Forks, tranny (good to have spares), engine with craddle off the 69 Roadster plus a fairing and glass tank. Dunstall maybe???? Matchless Typhoon ring a bell? Crocker? T140 Trumpet?
What about a 69 Velo Thruxton, sold that show winner also. Looking for a Norton 19S someday to keep the Typhoon company. Gave up on a G50 matchless a real one no Seeley's. Speaking Limey here, Discovery 5 speed 4.9litre sleeper. Damn I need a bier screw the meds, cheer's mate! Oh what's a DMC, got one with 314 original miles and owner?

72 750 Interstate, bought in the the UK in 1976, brought home in 1978. 1973 850 bought at MidAmerica auction here in St Paul. My brother owns my first one, a 69 S, damn I wish I still had that one. DMC doesn't ring any bells here. Love to have an ES2 with featherbed frame for plonking along on back roads... Gotta stop this the mods will be after us for off topic, but good to find someone else aflicted with the same disease.

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