Keezer build

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KKreisler

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Joined
Oct 27, 2011
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Location
farmington
A few pics of the new keezer.
there is a Caribou slobber brown, and a sierra nevada clone carbonating right now, I am going to add a rootbeer or a cream soda to the mix for my sons (and myself) today hopefully.

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How did you attach the wood collar?

To avoid drilling into the rim of the chest freezer I ended up using scotch high density foam mounting tape. I believe the spec on the tape was around 2lb / sq inch.
I adhered the tape around the entire perimeter of the collar leaving the paper on the back side. I next set the lid on the freezer and removed the tape backing from one of the ends of the collar and carefully attached.
i then lifted the opposite about an inch, removed the rest of the backing and firmly placed the collar.
I am pretty pleased with the bond. I am a bit concerned about how it will hold up at lower temps, but if it fails there are automotive adhesive tapes that have a much stronger bond strength and even more temp resilience.
 
If you didn't drill through the rim to attach the collar did you drill through it to attach the taps ? Just curious I want to build one soon and have seen them done a bunch of diffrent ways
 
Farmington MN, and ND Fighting Sioux decals? Go UMD Bulldogs. Just had to get that out of the way :)

Nice Build

School Pride, Props go out to the Bulldogs too, just not as enthusiastically

:D


Solo,
I drilled through the collar to attach the taps, the only penetrations I have made in the actual freezer are the four screw around the stainless plate I mounted the temp controller and the LED to. The area behid that is the compressor cavity.
when I wired the auber temp controller I wired it so that the LED is illuminated only when the compressor is cycling.
The temp controller is an analog controller, but is set up using a relay contact for digital control with a 1 degree deadband.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=14

The stainless backsplash and trim around the temp controller were both cut from a SS door kick I had laying around.
 
Thanks for the complements,
I will try to snap some more pics later, but to answer the questions
The when I cut the pieces of stainless I drilled and countersunk the mounting holes.
I attached the controller plate over the existing t-stat opening in the front of the freezer with stainless countersunk sheet metal screws.
I attached the backsplash with the ss screws that came with the door kick plate.
the holes for the shanks were laid out in the back plate, 1/4 center hole were drilled, then I punched them out using a 7/8" Knock out set.
I then attached the splash plate to the collar and used my drill press and 7/8" spade bit through the holes in the ss plate to bore the holes in the oak collar.

when I removed the original t-stat, the probe was installed in a capillary behind the compressor that was sealed with a rubber cap.
I pulled the temp probe out and pushed the RTD probe that I used into the capillary. It was a tight fit, and it is not in as far as the original probe was, but it is in far enough to be accurate as I checked it against a wireless thermometer I have and they were less than two degrees different.
 
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