Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

This would be great are there any detailed instructions on how people have put these together. Or photos or videos

What kind of instraurions are you looking for? Do you want it air tight? I put mine together without it being air tight. I gravity drain it into kegs. The build was simple.

Gmj1980 said:

This would be great are there any detailed instructions on how people have put these together. Or photos or videos

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Check out post 212 in this thread.

Sacdan said:

What kind of instraurions are you looking for? Do you want it air tight? I put mine together without it being air tight. I gravity drain it into kegs. The build was simple.

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Anything would help thanks

Do you want to cool it or control fermentation temps? Are you going to put it in a fermentation chamber?

Sacdan said:

Do you want to cool it or control fermentation temps? Are you going to put it in a fermentation chamber?

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yes i would like to control fermenting temps. I dont have a fermentation chamber

allclene said:

Yes it holds real nice had it up to 30 psi to test it and check for leaks

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how did you get it to?

calicojack said:

how did you get it to?

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I will get a part list and some pics together and post it for you

Has anyone figured out how to get rid of the plastic smell? It's making me afraid to use it frankly.

There was a post here that suggested direct sunlight! They said it worked well.

Sigh, Ohio winter. No such thing I'm afraid. I'll keep my fingers crossed for a sunny day!

cscade said:

Sigh, Ohio winter. No such thing I'm afraid. I'll keep my fingers crossed for a sunny day!

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Sterilize it and throw a beer in it. It wont smell like plastic after that.

cscade said:

Has anyone figured out how to get rid of the plastic smell? It's making me afraid to use it frankly.

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Put it out in the sun for a few hours with the lid off. That took the smell out of mine.

cscade said:

Has anyone figured out how to get rid of the plastic smell? It's making me afraid to use it frankly.

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Soaked mine with OXY & TSP-90. 1 Tablespoons of each per 5 gallons, or 3 T of each for the whole 15 gallons. Actually do that every time I clean it. Your first brew will cure anything that's left. Don't sweat it.. Cheers, and happy brewing!!

It's confirmed; my wife bought me one for Christmas. Sad part is that it is in a box and wrapped, waiting to be unwrapped on Christmas. I already bought my 1.5 ballvalve, bulkhead for racking port, and all of my camlocks fittings. I don't know if I can wait that long though.

nisk916 said:

It's confirmed; my wife bought me one for Christmas. Sad part is that it is in a box and wrapped, waiting to be unwrapped on Christmas. I already bought my 1.5 ballvalve, bulkhead for racking port, and all of my camlocks fittings. I don't know if I can wait that long though.

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+1 for this. Big box in the basement. Smaller box with what sounds like polypropylene fittings when shaken. Come on Santa!

You guys are worse then my 6 year old!!

Sent from my DROIDX using Home Brew Talk

TomRep said:

You guys are worse then my 6 year old!!

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..you have no idea.

Well first beer will be coming out of the new conical this weekend and i have to say so far so good. I have had no problems with it yet. Ill put out the shopping list and pics for how i sealed it as soon as i get the beer out so look for it mid next week if your interested in sealing the thing.

allclene said:

Well first beer will be coming out of the new conical this weekend and i have to say so far so good. I have had no problems with it yet. Ill put out the shopping list and pics for how i sealed it as soon as i get the beer out so look for it mid next week if your interested in sealing the thing.

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Did you replace the screws with SS? I am thinking of doing that.

Got mine today. Have a makeshift stand until I can make one. So far I am very happy with the quality, and am hoping on getting another soon. I can't decide if I want to use a racking port or not though. Will be brewing on New Years eve to test it out. Thanks for all the help guys!

Better picture

I bought a 13 1/2" inside diameter (-456) red 70 euro FDA silicone o-ring from orings-online.com to fit on the lid assembly. It costs $9.87 each plus shipping. No nasty airborne particles - flying, crawling or otherwise - are going to get inside!. The lid itself seems to tighten on the assembly well enough on its own.

Does that make it totally airtight? Did you install that between the conical and lid assembly?

HellBentBrewCo said:

Does that make it totally airtight? Did you install that between the conical and lid assembly?

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Yes, it is installed between the conical and the lid assembly. As for airtight, I don't have a Brewhemoth Pressurizer to test. I just got the tank a week ago because of this thread and have been collecting the bits to use it - hopefully as early as next weekend.

I just bit on the free shipping deal too. I dream of someday having a row of Brewhemoth's, and may someday when child support and maintenance are done. For now, this will be a fine alternative. No more splitting batches between buckets or carboys!

HellBentBrewCo said:

Does that make it totally airtight? Did you install that between the conical and lid assembly?

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As for gasketing the space between the lid and the lid assembly, I thought of a bicycle or scooter inner tube with an OD of 14". The inner tube would have to be halved to get rid of the air valve. In so doing, one would end up with two gaskets. I tried searching for PTFE gaskets; but, they were very expensive.

That said, the lid when fastened really tight to the lid assembly seems to effectively close the door on bugs. I was really concerned about the gap between the lid assembly and the conical which the o-ring appears to remedy.

Sacdan said:

Did you replace the screws with SS? I am thinking of doing that.

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No they looked ss to me already so kept same screws

Before I drill mine for a racking port I had a few questions. First, what is a proper height to drill the hole? I have read 6-7 inches, but that seems high.
Second, what are the best fittings to use internally as the pickup/racking arm? I was planning on just using a barbed 90 unless there is a easier, more sanitary solution.

nisk916 said:

Before I drill mine for a racking port I had a few questions. First, what is a proper height to drill the hole? I have read 6-7 inches, but that seems high.
Second, what are the best fittings to use internally as the pickup/racking arm? I was planning on just using a barbed 90 unless there is a easier, more sanitary solution.

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Do you plan to use a yeast catcher? Do you plan on dumping sediment then dumping yeast, or do you plan on it all in one shot? What kind of diptube do you plan to implement? The answers to these questions will determine where you place it, but the first thing is that it depends on a measurement of volume, not length. For instance, I put mine at the 1 gallon mark, not x amount of inches from the bottom. Since I'm using a compression fitting for my copper diptube, I can loosen the compression nut and just move the placement of the diptube to wherever I want.

I was planning on using a yeast catcher for the trub, and using a hose afterwards to dump and harvest the yeast. Since I am using a1.5 inch ballvalve and camlocks, clogs are not really a concern. I like the idea of a rotating Assembly but have not seen a clean design that I like so far, That's why I was going to keep it simple.

EarthBound said:

Do you plan to use a yeast catcher? Do you plan on dumping sediment then dumping yeast, or do you plan on it all in one shot? What kind of diptube do you plan to implement? The answers to these questions will determine where you place it, but the first thing is that it depends on a measurement of volume, not length. For instance, I put mine at the 1 gallon mark, not x amount of inches from the bottom. Since I'm using a compression fitting for my copper diptube, I can loosen the compression nut and just move the placement of the diptube to wherever I want.

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I think copper on the cold side might not be the best solution. I looked into it for a racking arm and found enough info to persuade me to use stainless steel tube and compression fitting.
the concern is it will react with the wort and create toxic compounds

chrisdb said:

I think copper on the cold side might not be the best solution. I looked into it for a racking arm and found enough info to persuade me to use stainless steel tube and compression fitting.
the concern is it will react with the wort and create toxic compounds

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I had not heard of this until now. I did a bunch of research this morning, and I am now also persuaded. I'm glad you brought this to my attention before I used my conical.

Just picked up the 15 gallon Full Drain 2" version.

I also got the valve, nipple, and two couplers.

http://media.ruralking.com/image.php?sku=063240069&nsize=1000

http://media.ruralking.com/image.php?sku=063240904&nsize=1000

Any reason I shouldn't use this setup?

glad to help... I was going to do the same until I researched a bit. Ened up with SS bulkheads with 90 degree elbows compression fitting to a 6"stainless racking arm in the conical. all the parts are available from bargainfittings.com, and elsewhere also i'm sure

Just curious. Is anyone using this system sealed tight and holding pressure as well as using some sort of ss coil to cool? How are you accomplishing this. I'm interested in that.

At the very least I'm interested in what people have put together as far as the coils to cool the wort instead of me building a fermentation room.

chrisdb said:

I think copper on the cold side might not be the best solution. I looked into it for a racking arm and found enough info to persuade me to use stainless steel tube and compression fitting.
the concern is it will react with the wort and create toxic compounds

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What kind of toxins cause i got copper in mine. Do you have more detail on that

allclene said:

What kind of toxins cause i got copper in mine. Do you have more detail on that

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Found in BYO:

"Copper is a double-edged sword in brewing. It is beneficial before fermentation, but detrimental afterwards. Copper ions react with the hydrogen sulfide produced during fermentation and reduce it to insoluble copper sulfide, which is left behind with the trub and yeast cake. Switching to all stainless steel brewing equipment can lead to noticeable quantities of hydrogen sulfide and sulfur off-flavors and aromas in the beer. The use of copper wort chillers will provide all the copper necessary, as will including a short piece (1 inch) of copper tubing in the boil.

Copper is a problem post-fermentation because it catalyzes staling reactions, including the production of hydrogen peroxide and can oxidize the alcohols to aldehydes. Finished beer should not be stored in contact with copper, although serving beer with copper tubing in a jockey box should not be a problem, because of the short contact time immediately before serving."

Gotta go with SS or plastic.

Hi folks,

Great thread. I may have missed this, but could someone describe their sanitation procedure? Also, is anyone concerned about all the threaded connections and possible scratches in the threads?

Thanks.