Water Meter..Where the heck is it and what's it look like?

So I need to replace the main water valve in my basement. No big deal, only problem is the city can only shut my water off M-F 8:30-4:30. WTF? Don't they know normal people work 8-5? So I figured,why do I need them to come out? I've heard that they just remove a cap on the meter and there is a valve in there. I can do that. Wait till it's dark out turn valve off, replace my inside valve, turn there's back on, nobody ever knows. Ok outside I go....Inside I come. Where the F is my water meter? Besides my electric box this is the only meter I can find and am pretty sure it's my gas meter. Can you tell me for sure? The gray disk part on the back right has a bottom vent and it smells slighty of NG. That's why I'm assuiming this is my gas meter.



Here's the disk with the bottome vent





How'd these get here??

My 2nd Year Mt. Hood.They were just there all of a sudden two days ago.

In most places I've seen, the water meter is in the ground.

Thats what I'm afraid of. But was really hoping to not have to go a morning without water.

It's accessable. Just somewhere between your house and the street where the water main is.

That is a gas meter. My water main in up on the street.

that is you gas meter. sometimes the are barried under ground at the street shut off. also maybe placed right before you inside shut off. Hope it helps.

usually the meter will be in your basement but the valve to shut off is outside under the street/sidewalk, they come out with a long shafted split wrench (6-8ft) to turn the valve. there should be a small 4-6in metal plate either in the grass between the rd and sidewalk or just onto the rd with 'water' stamped on it.

I know where that plate is in my front yard and new it was referred to as a water meter..I guess I was just hoping there was another one that I could access my self. D'oh. Guess I'll be without water for an evening and morning. Thanks everyone..

3 quick questions.
1) Do they sell those 6-8 ft split wrenches?
2) Are they expensive/rentable?
3) Is it illegal to do that stuff yourself?

Two things I have to add... First, call the gas company and tell them your meter is about to fall apart due to rust. The connections to my meter looked similar to yours and I got back from a week's vacation to find a new meter with a lock on it. My neighbor explained that they did meter inspections and mine failed.

Second, you can definitely turn your own water main off. I've seen the long wrenches at Lowes but you can make your own. First, pull the cover off of the pipe our near the curb that says xxx water company. Figure out how deep the ball valve is. Get some 1/2" black pipe that is a few inches longer than that depth. Cut two slots in the end of the pipe about 3/8" apart. Then bend the two short tabs out of the way. The new 3/8" slot you made will fit over the "knob" on the ball valve. You only need to turn it a quarter turn to turn it off. You can use a pair of pipe wrenches to turn this pipe tool or you can put a TEE and a couple short nipples on the top for leverage. Of course, if your Lowes has the tool, which I found out AFTER making one, it's the easiest way.

IrregularPulse said:

I know where that plate is in my front yard and new it was referred to as a water meter..I guess I was just hoping there was another one that I could access my self. D'oh. Guess I'll be without water for an evening and morning. Thanks everyone..

3 quick questions.
1) Do they sell those 6-8 ft split wrenches?
2) Are they expensive/rentable?
3) Is it illegal to do that stuff yourself?

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1.) Yes Lowes. $5 - $10
2.) No. $5 - $10 and keep it as long as you want.
3.) No.

Bobby_M said:

Two things I have to add... First, call the gas company and tell them your meter is about to fall apart due to rust. The connections to my meter looked similar to yours and I got back from a week's vacation to find a new meter with a lock on it. My neighbor explained that they did meter inspections and mine failed.

Second, you can definitely turn your own water main off. I've seen the long wrenches at Lowes but you can make your own. First, pull the cover off of the pipe our near the curb that says xxx water company. Figure out how deep the ball valve is. Get some 1/2" black pipe that is a few inches longer than that depth. Cut two slots in the end of the pipe about 3/8" apart. Then bend the two short tabs out of the way. The new 3/8" slot you made will fit over the "knob" on the ball valve. You only need to turn it a quarter turn to turn it off. You can use a pair of pipe wrenches to turn this pipe tool or you can put a TEE and a couple short nipples on the top for leverage. Of course, if your Lowes has the tool, which I found out AFTER making one, it's the easiest way.

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GilaMinumBeer said:

1.) Yes Lowes. $5 - $10
2.) No. $5 - $10 and keep it as long as you want.
3.) No.

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Awesome guys thank you very much, Screw you water company. I like to shower EVERY morning!

And about the gas company, I will call them this afternoon. That's all paid for the the gas company right?

I guess it may depend on what company but I know that my gas meter was replaced for free.

The reason that I had to turn my water off at the street was because BOTH gate valves that were installed before and after the meter in the basement were failing. I was trying to install a whole house water filter and need the supply to shut off completely so I can get some soldering done. While the main was shut off, I replaced the crappy gate valves with ball valves. Gate valves are total crap. The house is only 18 years old and the valve were probably turned a total of 3 times since.

dammit
lol
10

IrregularPulse said:

That's all paid for the the gas company right?

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Everything up to and including the meter should be the responsibility of the utility provider. Everything after is allllllllll yours.

I say should cause I have heard some stories. They all worked out in the end but, perhaps you should ask and takes names.

GilaMinumBeer said:

Everything up to and including the meter should be the responsibility of the utility provider. Everything after is allllllllll yours.

I say should cause I have heard some stories. They all worked out in the end but, perhaps you should ask and takes names.

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Yeah, that is what I was thinking too but he says water valve not water meter.

jgln said:

Yeah, that is what I was thinking too but he says water valve not water meter.

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Well, mine is one in the same. A sort of uni-body meter valve and the actual valve portion is on the street side.

Just got back from running home to meet the gas man. Guess who has a new meter? This kid. And it was free. Their customer service is a deusche and a half. He was not willing to have a guy come out to look at meter unless there was a leak. I said, "So instead of performing simple preventative maintenance on something as dangerous as a gas you wait untill there is a leak and there is an emergency? He went on his speal about policy blah blah can't do anything about customers concern to safety if there's no leak..I said, "There's a leak I smell gas". See your guy in an hour. Now I can go back to replacing my water valves.


Thanks for the suggestion Bobby

Not mention I got friggin pulled over on the way home to meet him. Got a warning cause my truck doesn't have a front license plate. I've gotten that warning a half dozen times. Maybe I should put it on.

jgln said:

Yeah, that is what I was thinking too but he says water valve not water meter.

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The meter is fine, it's the valve inside my house that's leaking. that's my responisibility and thats fine. I just want to turn there off myself since there hours of operation would put me without water for a minimum of one morning. I NEEDS my shower in the morning.

Bobby_M said:

I replaced the crappy gate valves with ball valves. Gate valves are total crap. The house is only 18 years old and the valve were probably turned a total of 3 times since.

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This is what I'm doing. Granted my house is 53 years old. But yes Gate valves blow. Is there any benefit over ball valves for any application?

IrregularPulse said:

Just got back from running home to meet the gas man. Guess who has a new meter? This kid. And it was free. Their customer service is a deusche and a half. He was not willing to have a guy come out to look at meter unless there was a leak. I said, "So instead of performing simple preventative maintenance on something as dangerous as a gas you wait untill there is a leak and there is an emergency? He went on his speal about policy blah blah can't do anything about customers concern to safety if there's no leak..I said, "There's a leak I smell gas". See your guy in an hour. Now I can go back to replacing my water valves.


Thanks for the suggestion Bobby

Not mention I got friggin pulled over on the way home to meet him. Got a warning cause my truck doesn't have a front license plate. I've gotten that warning a half dozen times. Maybe I should put it on.

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Should have told him to wait while you go check for a leak with you lighter.

Yeah, one time I said my GF smelled gas but I did not so it was not a real emergency; they had a guy there in less than 30 minutes and even told me to turn everything off and get in the car and leave, we didn't though.

Take the tag from the back and put it in the front.

IrregularPulse said:

This is what I'm doing. Granted my house is 53 years old. But yes Gate valves blow. Is there any benefit over ball valves for any application?

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Ofcourse there is an advantage to the plumber installing them. It costs less to buy and he will have another job replacing it in a few years.

Really its just a matter of cost. Gate valves are less than half the price of ball valves. Of course instillation costs more than the valve and thats about the same for both.

Craig

Just a word of warning if you are going to try to shut off your water out at the main yourself. If that valve hasn't been used in a while they can seize up and if you snap it you pay for a new one. I used to work summers for out village DPW and remember a few people who tried to do this and busted the shut offs. If the DPW guys break it they are responsible, if you break it you are.

Gate valves are about useless on water sysems. But they are benefical when you have them in larger system like for sewage. Ever try to remove a depends from a ball valve in a 4 inch sewage system? Then you will appreciate a nice gate valve.

jgln said:

Take the tag from the back and put it in the front.

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Yes cause being pulled voer 3 times a week is much better than once year

2nd Street Brewery said:

Just a word of warning if you are going to try to shut off your water out at the main yourself. If that valve hasn't been used in a while they can seize up and if you snap it you pay for a new one. I used to work summers for out village DPW and remember a few people who tried to do this and busted the shut offs. If the DPW guys break it they are responsible, if you break it you are.

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This is a good point I'll keep in mind. I'll give her a good test and not use too much force if it doesn budge.

friarjohn said:

Gate valves are about useless on water sysems. But they are benefical when you have them in larger system like for sewage. Ever try to remove a depends from a ball valve in a 4 inch sewage system? Then you will appreciate a nice gate valve.

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Makes sense to use one in that scenario.

Picked up my tool at Lowes yesterday for $11 and can not shut my water off anytime I want! Awesome!. Installing 3 new ball valves tonight. Thanks for everyone's help.

IrregularPulse said:

Picked up my tool at Lowes yesterday for $11 and can not shut my water off anytime I want! Awesome!. Installing 3 new ball valves tonight. Thanks for everyone's help.

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You are welcome.

Never thought I'd see the day when someone is elated to have a tool that can NOT shut off the water anytime.

Guess you just needed a tool fix. Or had the Male equivalent "special time" of hours spent in a 10x20 shoe store.

do you even need a key?
this it what all mine have looked like



all you need is a spoon to dig the dirt clear and a crecent wrench or adjustable spanner for you brits

My pre-meter ball valve is out at the curb under a 4" round coverplate, about 36" underground. It's only reached by a long tool (that's what she said).

I would need a very long tool. My water meter is 3200 feet away. Fortunately, I have a shutoff next to the house.

I've had a T-handle since I lived in Southern California. Necessary for shutting your gas off after a major earthquake. Never used it myself, but I know people who had. Some, more than once.

david_42 said:

I would need a very long tool. My water meter is 3200 feet away. Fortunately, I have a shutoff next to the house.

I've had a T-handle since I lived in Southern California. Necessary for shutting your gas off after a major earthquake. Never used it myself, but I know people who had. Some, more than once.

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Wow. Never knew quakes were prevalent in Oregon.

Bobby_M said:

My pre-meter ball valve is out at the curb under a 4" round coverplate, about 36" underground. It's only reached by a long tool (that's what she said).

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This is how mine is too...

Side note I am going on morning number 1 without friggin water. Why is Lowes not open past 9pm? Don't they know that everything goes wrong at 8:55?

Old vavle came out piece of cake. New valve goes in piece of cake. Lsat solder connection. hmmm why is this not whicking. Heating forever solder is NOT melting. Valve is closed, I tihnk maybe its creating a vacuum and not allowing it to pull it in, I open the valve, ok cool, solder is starting to melt into the valve. All except on 1/8 slit. after 5-10 minutes of straight torch solder will not melt and whick into the one spot. I think, Maybe it whicked inside beyond where i can see. I'll try.
Turn water back on outside and run downstiars just incase. Very slow leak, drip............drip.........drip........damnit. Cannot get solder to whick into last gap to save my life. Luckily I had an extra valve. I'll just start over. Everything line up and dry fitted, just grab this piece of 3/4" patch pipe to make the last connection....hmmm That's odd.....awfully loose fit.....7/8" WTF, where'd that come from! Looks at phone, 8:53 pm. Uhg, feeling gross at work today after no shower and brushing my teeth from a water jug.

Off to lowes tonight to buy a truck load of copper and fittings and valves. If I have to restart 50 times tonight, I'm going to have what I need.

I have a 3 gallon bucket of misc. copper fittings in the garage. It's like garlic to plumbing nightmare vampires. Few things I can think of with your wicking problem is the connection wasn't clean enough (maybe touched that with an oily finger) or no flux. I sometimes have success just dabbing that spot with the flux brush and the solder flows. Last, there may have been some residual moisture in the pipe and that one spot was the steam vent.

Best to not crack open the homebrew til after the water is running. I'd hate to dind myself druck and attempting to "whicking teh lsat vavle".

They make a small kit that consists of various sizes of flexible liquid filled balls that you insert into pipe before the valve. This TOTALLY stops the water.

What it sounds like is that there is just a little coming through that line, which is messing up your sweat. These will stop them. You put it in, sweat your joint, then heat up the ball and turn on the water.

Not expensive, but priceless.

Also, heat the pipe, not the valve.

EDIT: You can also use balled up bread, but make sure you open up a faucet like a hose bib to blow it out when done. The concept is illustrated in the Jet Sweat .

EDIT2: FINALLY, I found the things. HERE is what I was talking about.

Bobby_M said:

I sometimes have success just dabbing that spot with the flux brush and the solder flows. Tried that one, no luck Last, there may have been some residual moisture in the pipe and that one spot was the steam vent. I'm 99% positive that had to be it. There was water in the line. I didn't know if that would effect it or not but started thinking the heat may have been drawing to the water instead of the solder. I'm relatively new to copper sweating. Only previous experience is CFC build and 2 washing machine supply valves. Still learning all the tricks and hangups.

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GilaMinumBeer said:

Best to not crack open the homebrew til after the water is running. I'd hate to dind myself druck and attempting to "whicking teh lsat vavle".

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I was actually proud of my self for not drinking till the mess was done, well for the night, and I was layin in bed. But I do appreciate you pointing out all my flaws! I can always count on you for that!!

lrr81765 said:

They make a small kit that consists of various sizes of flexible liquid filled balls that you insert into pipe before the valve. This TOTALLY stops the water.
I've bought these for 1/2 pipe but when I tried using it it wouldn't squeeze in and just burst the ball. I'll try picking some up for the size pipe I'm using this time. Maybe Lowes will have a various size kit. I only found single size packages before.


Also, heat the pipe, not the valve. Thanks, I couldn't remember which one I was supposed to do so I was just going back and forth over both of them.

EDIT: You can also use balled up bread, but make sure you open up a faucet like a hose bib to blow it out when done. Probably won't do the bread thing as this line goes straight to the water heater, then the rest of the house.

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Thanks for all the tips and help guys. I love this forum. It's nice for beer talk, but I honestly get more more DIY help out of it than anything.

I was telling SWMBO last night, I never consider myself real handy, but in 3 years of owning our house, I've never once called a plumber, electrician, handyman or anything. Always fixed everything/installed everything my self. I will call professionals if I need Gas work done but that's it. It was a nice realization. One of those..."hell, I'm not completely worthless!" moments.
Thanks again.

On a positive not,e My bottle of Dark Lord is being delivered today from a generous forum member.

Believe it or not, MY water meter went bad. The guy just left. He was cool when he got here, but was really cool after he saw my fermenters going- we talked about beer, I had a beer, gave him a few, with instructions on how to pour a homebrew. And he absolutely fell in love with moe, the bulldog. Sat on the floor in the kitchen to play with the dog.

This all started last Dec. I have 2 dogs, and a doggie door. What a PITA that turned out to be. They say that my house meter is not accessible due to dogs.
I go to pay my bill, and after I interrupted her personal conversation, checking her e-mail, and a phone call to her daughter about what they were having for dinner, then she decided to be helpful. I handed her my reading, and she says no- way off, your account is suspended until we get a reading and test the meter. I recognize her, it's my neighbors sister, but with more teeth. She mentions that her sister is my neighbor. Her words exactly- There is now way this is right!

Guy comes out today- Their equipment failed. Showed me the meter, and pushed a button. Says meter should spin freely. Apoligized twice, and went on to explain that it's a mechanical item and prone to failure. Nothing but problems with these units.
THEY OWE ME!
Can't wait to go into the township office tomorrow and speak to this woman!

The new meter has a leak detector, all digital, and can be read from th street, so no more worries.

IrregularPulse said:

I was actually proud of my self for not drinking till the mess was done, well for the night, and I was layin in bed. But I do appreciate you pointing out all my flaws! I can always count on you for that!!



Thanks for all the tips and help guys. I love this forum. It's nice for beer talk, but I honestly get more more DIY help out of it than anything.

I was telling SWMBO last night, I never consider myself real handy, but in 3 years of owning our house, I've never once called a plumber, electrician, handyman or anything. Always fixed everything/installed everything my self. I will call professionals if I need Gas work done but that's it. It was a nice realization. One of those..."hell, I'm not completely worthless!" moments.
Thanks again.

On a positive not,e My bottle of Dark Lord is being delivered today from a generous forum member.

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BobbyM-

How about a soldering video?


My soldering on the water heater was so ugly, he commented.

It don't have to be pretty. Just work.

NJTomatoguy said:

The new meter has a leak detector, all digital, and can be read from th street, so no more worries.

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I believe mine has this too. There are wires attach to the cover that go down into the meter.


What I've learned so far about soldering.

Clean the mating pieces really well with sandpaper or steel wool. Use Flux, Heat the pipe, not the junction/valve. Pipe's cannot have water/moisture in them. Once solder drips there is enough in the joint. Don't touch the pipe for a long time after the soldering is done You don't need those annoying Flint Sparkers to start your torch. A lighter works much easier and faster. Use a damp wrap over nearby existing solder joints to wick heat away so you don't undo one while doing another.

IrregularPulse said:

I believe mine has this too. There are wires attach to the cover that go down into the meter.


What I've learned so far about soldering.

Clean the mating pieces really well with sandpaper or steel wool. Use Flux, Heat the pipe, not the junction/valve. Pipe's cannot have water/moisture in them. Once solder drips there is enough in the joint. Don't touch the pipe for a long time after the soldering is done You don't need those annoying Flint Sparkers to start your torch. A lighter works much easier and faster. Use a damp wrap over nearby existing solder joints to wick heat away so you don't undo one while doing another.

Click to expand...

Yep, that sounds right. The water heater install was before I was trained to solder. I went on to become a service plumber, but just too lazy ro rip it out and do it right. Ugly, but functional.

If your pipe does have water in it, run the torch up and down the pipe as far as you safely can, away from combustibles, to evaporate what is left in the pipe.

NJTomatoguy said:

Yep, that sounds right. The water heater install was before I was trained to solder. I went on to become a service plumber, but just too lazy ro rip it out and do it right. Ugly, but functional.

If your pipe does have water in it, run the torch up and down the pipe as far as you safely can, away from combustibles, to evaporate what is left in the pipe.

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I hope we hear back from him.